Author Topic: Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust  (Read 2066 times)

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Offline bwaz

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« on: August 24, 2006, 03:20:33 PM »
Without a set of torches in my garage, anyone have any solutions to removing old rusted in tailpipes from a stock muffler? Tried twisting, and cutting one to try and pry the remaining pipe out, but still no @#*&*^ luck
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Offline BUSDADDY

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2006, 04:35:26 PM »
Get the biggest pair of vise grips or waterpump pliers you can find and start squishing the tube in the muffler the tailpipe goes into. Not so much as to put permanent dints in it but enough to flex it and break the bond between the muff and tailpipe, work your way all around it so it doesn't become a permanent oval shape, but crunching noises are good, lots of wd-40, squishing and hammering on the sides and it should start to work loose, maybe.
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Offline moni

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2006, 05:22:36 PM »
lots of WD40 and an excessively large persuasion stick.  :lol:  
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Offline silas

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2006, 07:07:38 PM »
i'm not busting balls here, but i am a firm believer that the whole wd40 works to free stuck bolts is a myth.

wd stands for \"water displacement\". i've heard of body guys spraying it on a patch of bare metal so it wont rust. bike chains so they wont rust. i use it on bolts that are subjected to the elements before i put on the nut (roofrack clamp wingnuts, bumper mounting bolts, etc). i keep a can around, but i rarely use it. my boss use to swear by the stuff until i drilled it into his head that it doesnt work, and now all we use is rost off.

i have found the best stuff to free stuck bolts is pb blaster, rost off, or liquid wrench.

and at canadian tire you can find small disposable torches that are perfect for the garage. i used one to free up alot of stuck bolts when i disassembled my 56 and they work well.

- dose stuck bolt/nut with liquid wrench
- rap on it with a hammer to \"shock\" it loose
- get some heat from your torch on it
- turn bolt/nut out
« Last Edit: August 24, 2006, 07:08:31 PM by silas »

Offline BUSDADDY

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2006, 08:19:16 PM »
Sorry, I should have said \"penetrating oil\" you are right WD-40 is pretty weak but if it's the only thing you have at your disposal it's better than nothing.  My favorite weapon is a mix of Tumbler penetrating oil (a commercial shop jobber brand) and gear oil or 10w40. Soaks in and sticks around for later. Even better with a few heat/spray cycles, smokey but effective.
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Offline egspot

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2006, 09:11:14 AM »
Quote
i'm not busting balls here, but i am a firm believer that the whole wd40 works to free stuck bolts is a myth.

wd stands for "water displacement". i've heard of body guys spraying it on a patch of bare metal so it wont rust. bike chains so they wont rust. i use it on bolts that are subjected to the elements before i put on the nut (roofrack clamp wingnuts, bumper mounting bolts, etc). i keep a can around, but i rarely use it. my boss use to swear by the stuff until i drilled it into his head that it doesnt work, and now all we use is rost off.

i have found the best stuff to free stuck bolts is pb blaster, rost off, or liquid wrench.

and at canadian tire you can find small disposable torches that are perfect for the garage. i used one to free up alot of stuck bolts when i disassembled my 56 and they work well.

- dose stuck bolt/nut with liquid wrench
- rap on it with a hammer to "shock" it loose
- get some heat from your torch on it
- turn bolt/nut out


Has anyone ever used juts plain brake fluid?

Offline BUSDADDY

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2006, 11:01:27 AM »
Brake fluid is water based E (well glycol to be exact), It may feel a little slippery but it's only going to make rust worse as it attracts moisture. Penetrating oils creep between the rust and their lubricating qualities allow movement between the dry sharp cornered oxide. Adding heat opens up the small cracks and thins the oils so they penetrate further, the cooling cycle also draws it in even further.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS

Offline silas

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2006, 07:44:35 PM »
Quote
Has anyone ever used juts plain brake fluid?
no.

imho, brake fluid is horrible stuff. not only would it be difficult to apply, it's messy, ruins paint, stinks and should be left for the brakes, clutch slave cylinders, and nothing else.

Offline ArsenicPants

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2006, 01:44:54 PM »
Quote
no.

imho, brake fluid is horrible stuff. not only would it be difficult to apply, it's messy, ruins paint, stinks and should be left for the brakes, clutch slave cylinders, and nothing else.
i used brake fluid when i made this:



though really only to prime the metal surface

salt water, lemon juice, and bleach did most of the rustifying
« Last Edit: August 26, 2006, 01:53:17 PM by ArsenicPants »
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Offline silas

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2006, 07:39:49 PM »
Quote
i used brake fluid when i made this:



though really only to prime the metal surface

salt water, lemon juice, and bleach did most of the rustifying
which just goes to prove that...

Quote
it's messy, ruins paint, stinks and should be left for the brakes, clutch slave cylinders, and nothing else.

Offline ArsenicPants

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2006, 06:58:22 PM »
ya, that was the point

:)
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Offline Bruce

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Removing Tail Pipes From A Stock Exhaust
« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2006, 12:15:11 AM »
Quote
should be left for the brakes, clutch slave cylinders, and nothing else.
And I don't even give it that respect!