Author Topic: How Do I Get This Freaking Thing Out? (Read 2933 times)

amishrabbi · « **on:** June 26, 2006, 10:00:15 PM »

here is pictures, now anyone have any idea how i deal with the fact that the tank will not be removed?
73 super fat chick by the way

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #1 on:** June 26, 2006, 10:14:01 PM »

How is it putting up a fight? won't even wiggle? There's 4 bolts with big moon shaped washers, the filler pipe connector hose that must come off first and an assortment of little hoses on both top corners by the hood hinges. Oh yeah and the line underneath.

You need to slide the filler tube up towards the gas flap end. then there's just bareley enough room to lift the front of the tank and slide it out forward.

If that that doesn't work try about 3 feet of dynamite fuse in the filler neck and run

amishrabbi · « **Reply #2 on:** June 26, 2006, 10:17:15 PM »

it wiggles about a half inch up and down, all lines are disconected except the sending unit one since as you can see the fresh air box (i found out

that thing is chris) comes over the tank covering it and making it so i have very little space to work with

rustybus · « **Reply #3 on:** June 26, 2006, 10:28:51 PM »

Quote

How is it putting up a fight? won't even wiggle? There's 4 bolts with big moon shaped washers, the filler pipe connector hose that must come off first and an assortment of little hoses on both top corners by the hood hinges. Oh yeah and the line underneath.

You need to slide the filler tube up towards the gas flap end. then there's just bareley enough room to lift the front of the tank and slide it out forward.

If that that doesn't work try about 3 feet of dynamite fuse in the filler neck and run

Mark

The tank is loose everything is disconnected except for the lower fuel line (I think). It seems like the fresh air box is hindering the removal of the tank. Is there a way to get the fresh air box off or is it a permanent fixture?? Also is it me or does that gas tank look swollen??

Chris

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #4 on:** June 27, 2006, 06:12:25 AM »

Tough to say from the picture but it does look a bit chubby.

Can't say I have personal experience with a 73 but had the tank in and out of a 77 way too many times. The fresh air box is permanent on the 77 although you might gain 1/2\" by taking the lid off, just hope it's not glued on too bad.

The next option would be to slide a piece of metal between the tank and air box to keep the sender from hanging up and pry up the front of the tank and pry forward at the same time.

blarneyman · « **Reply #5 on:** June 27, 2006, 06:46:29 AM »

I think I remember seeing aftermarket tanks that will hold about 15 gallons. If this is one of them, then the clearance issue is the tank. It does look quite fat

Is it possible to lift the front edge first?

Tom H. · « **Reply #6 on:** June 27, 2006, 07:52:32 AM »

cutting torch?

definitely looks like its been \"inflated\".

Chris · « **Reply #7 on:** June 27, 2006, 07:58:27 AM »

well you may want to undo the filler neck.

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #8 on:** June 27, 2006, 08:34:46 AM »

Puffy or not someone got it in there so it should come out. You have to lift the front edge and come forward at the same time. Might want to try a 2x4 and jack from underneath, just don't jack the car off whatevers holding it up or the tank will be the least of your issues.

amishrabbi · « **Reply #9 on:** June 28, 2006, 01:05:16 PM »

from comparing how my tank looks to this picture

i decided my tank is either a)not stock or b)has swelled up somehow and that is the reason its being such a pain

Bullyboy · « **Reply #10 on:** June 28, 2006, 03:45:33 PM »

well at least that picture of Dorinda's trunk is getting lots of views

hers is the original 73' super tank and it was a close fit with the plate removed.
I think you have no choice but remove the front plate on the fresh air box.
BTW .....if the tank was sealed with no vented cap it can bulge quite a bit on a hot day

amishrabbi · « **Reply #11 on:** June 28, 2006, 04:01:46 PM »

im debating if i need the whole fresh air thing at all, i never use vents i just crack a window. im tempted to take the whole thing out and put metal over the holes so it doesnt leak into my trunk

and yea i think that is what happened, could just take a hammer to it....anyone know how fagile a sendingunit is?

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #12 on:** June 28, 2006, 07:43:10 PM »

Big hammer and sending unit sounds like a bad mix, take off your hood and jump on the tank. Or try prying between the FA box and the tank but you will need the lid on the box so you don't mangle it.

Mowser · « **Reply #13 on:** June 28, 2006, 07:57:30 PM »

this may sound odd but here goes. How hard would it be to seal off all the entrances to the tank? IE: fuel line out... If you can seal all but one opening (filler neck seems appropriate) then you could try evacuating some air from the tank via vaccum cleaner or something. Then with a negative air pressure it would be easier to pop the tank back to it's original shape. Keep in mind that you would have to maintain the vaccum while attempting to reshape the tank and that static charges can occur when using vaccum cleaners with plastic hoses (SHOP VAC).

Be safe but it may help. Definately a two man job though

amishrabbi · « **Reply #14 on:** June 28, 2006, 09:00:16 PM »

i get what you are saying, but im not sure if a vacume or a shop vac would creat enough pressure

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #15 on:** June 28, 2006, 10:06:00 PM »

Tried that before on aircraft tanks, there's a very fine line between enough vacuum to do the job and an imploded tank that'll hold around 2 liters. :wacko: Used a vacuum pump. I'm not sure gas fumes in a shop vac is a wise idea. :unsure:

Mowser · « **Reply #16 on:** June 28, 2006, 10:09:15 PM »

it's the only thing I could think of that your typical garage would have in it. The best way would be to submerse it under water to a depth that water pressure would do the work. Perhaps seal up the tank really well and push the Super off the Port O Man Bridge. I'm sure the water is deep enough.

HeHe. Truly though just getting the pressure below 1 atmosphere would help with the procedure. If it's just \"popped\" out then reduced air pressure on the inside along with a good heavy push on the outside may be enough. Like said before..... take off the hood and get your feet on it. A good solid amount of even pressure should do it. Good luck!

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #17 on:** June 29, 2006, 04:57:01 PM »

Just had an idea, what if you sat a bottle jack on top of the tank and bolted chains across the top of the jack in an X between the holdown bolt holes. Pump, pump, pump, squish, squish, squish. Would save pulling the hood. A bit of plywood or something might spread the pressure but you could do one area at a time as well.

amishrabbi · « **Reply #18 on:** June 29, 2006, 11:58:00 PM »

perfect! i was just going to go at it with a sledge but that is much more effective.

Mowser · « **Reply #19 on:** June 30, 2006, 12:41:18 AM »

good call BUSDADDY.

amishrabbi · « **Reply #20 on:** June 30, 2006, 06:16:30 PM »

its out and the new one is in :ph34r:

on to the nest problem--wont charge

jason_hamilton · « **Reply #21 on:** June 30, 2006, 10:04:32 PM »

Good to hear.

Re: charging

What do you have installed? (Alternator or Generator, internal or external voltage regulator)
What are the symptoms?
Does the red light come on, and if so, des it stay on?
How old is the battery?
How long has the charging system been giving you problems?

amishrabbi · « **Reply #22 on:** June 30, 2006, 11:19:39 PM »

What do you have installed? (Alternator or Generator, internal or external voltage regulator)--alt, part number is a bosch AL82, so internal regulted but has 3 wires which people say means external, has me confused
What are the symptoms?my car is running off my battery, volts dont go up when im driving it around, just down
Does the red light come on, and if so, des it stay on?gen light? havent checked yet but my speedo doesnt work so good chance it doesnt
How old is the battery?dont know, came with the car
How long has the charging system been giving you problems?since i bought it week and a half ago

jason_hamilton · « **Reply #23 on:** July 01, 2006, 09:54:16 AM »

Okay, your first thing is to get the charge indicator light in the speedometer working. Without that bulb, the alternator cannot charge the battery. Check the bulb for operation and the wiring for continuity.

amishrabbi · « **Reply #24 on:** July 01, 2006, 04:41:46 PM »

looked at my speedo, i dont have a dash gen light, closest thing i have is a light with a B in a circle on it

and took the volt meter to my alt, when its at idle its putting out 10.3 and when i rev it up its at 6ish

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #25 on:** July 01, 2006, 07:14:51 PM »

Hmmmmm.... Every A/c VW I've seen has two lights in the bottom of the speedo at 5 and 7 o'clock. Most often the charge light is red and on the left, some of the later ones are labeled with a G in a circle with a small rectangle on each side. Have a look It has to be somewhere.

amishrabbi · « **Reply #26 on:** July 02, 2006, 11:12:30 AM »

havent found anything :wacko:
i do have 3 random lights on the left side of my dash and the B light though

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #27 on:** July 02, 2006, 12:55:14 PM »

Three lights?

This is getting odd. Are you sure you don't have some kind of custom dash in there?? Just one Big black speedo with a fuel guage in it. Most later beetles I recall have two yellowish white rectangular lights beside the headlight switch that say brake and fasten seat belts.

When you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine do any lights come on? does one do something when you play with the parking brake? Now start the engine, do any go out? do any stay on? do any go out after you rev it up a little?

Sounds like you are going to have to go rooting for the medium blue color wire with no stripe and see which light it goes to. It might take a detour to the seat belt box as well if it's still installed.

You do have an oil pressure light right ? It should be in the bottom of the speedo next to the charge light.