It's time to throw some elbow grease at the bus, what wax do you like and why?
I've been using with Turtle wax because it's been around for 50+ years and I know it won't screw up my OG paint. Although I'm not happy about the abrasives in it and try to go easy on the rubbing. I've had some exceptionially bad experiences with so called "Lifetime" or "once a year" polishes in the past so I tend to shy away from "new and improved" and "space age" products. But, that being said, waxing a bus is a big job so I want something that's hopefully going to last a little while.
I know wax technology has come a long way lately so what do you recommend for OG enamel that sits under a carport most of the time?
What if it sits outside all the time? I wax airplanes too and now we're talking surface area.
Turtle wax has cut polish in it....
Preperation is the key, chemical cut, foam pads, someone that knows what they are doing, (sorry not interseted) took me 19 man hours to cut and wax ( 6 coats of carnuba ) onHulk's 66 Double cab..
Go for paint sealant and throw some ( thin coats) of carnuba on top..
From a post a long time ago....
f you were to go into some of the top detailing shops around town you would see that they use different products for different applications. My opinion is that preperation before applying da wax or sealant is the key to the finished product. where have you heard that before?
Products to consider:
1. Car Brite --located in Coquitlam Rob 604-309-5446
2. 3M products Lordco
3. Pro Products/BASF (B&G in Langley)
4. Meguires Products--Lordco
Some steps to consider
1. Never, never wash your car in the sun (cold water on hot metal--Science 9)
2. Use a two bucket system (preferablly tall buckets)
- 1 is a rinse bucket
- 1 is the wash bucket
4. Rinse of the car first (hose)
- this removes any large chunks of sand/dirt/barf etc.
5. Use a cotton or wool wash mitt
A. Mitt goes to wash bucket then clean a part of da car
B. Mitt goes to rinse bucket, dip it in and out a few times do not wring it out (as this embeds the dirt in to the mitt)
C. Nearly all of the grit and dirt will fall to the bottom of the rinse bucket
D. At the end you should have a near empty wash bucket and a very dirty rinse bucket
6. Start from the roof-all the windows-hood-trunk (always work in quadrants)
rinse as you go
7. The sides of the car/below the leading edge of the door are the second to last parts to do
- use the rinse bucket more often at this point
8. Do your wheel rims and tires last
- use a stiff nylon brush and a strong bio-degradable cleaner for the tires.
Never, never cut or wax your car in the sun, or on an extremely warm day. Try and work in a controlled envioronment (garage/carport out of da sun)
Polish: Is for the cut; usually is a chemical base; becareful of a grit base--very,very aggresive
Wax: Use 100% Carnuba ( Its what the purest use)
I prefer using paint sealant--lasts longer, I then apply 3-5 thin coats of 100% Carnuba
Polish/Wax/sealant--always apply in thin coats ( do small quadrants )
Stay away from Turtle Wax--It actually has a cut polish in it.
PREPERATION IS THE KEY
- Black & dark cars add an extra hour for prep--Some of the higher end products have special polishes that are formulated for a dark surface.
- Find someone who has a variable speed cut polisher/foam pads work the best least likely to burn the paint, although the old-timers /more experianced detailers use wool pads
- never lean into the cut.
- let the polisher do the work.
- never over work a pad, clogged pads make more work
- work in small quadrants
Hope this helps,
