Making A 1600 Bigger?

[BreakinSouls]

Just curious how big can you a 1600cc before you have to have machine work done to it? My motor is shoot and I'm think 1776 or 1835cc, Any suggestions on how big I should go (got to be a daily driver though)? Any info would be a help.  :mellow:  

[slammedbus]

I would go 1914cc. But you will have to have machine work done. If its gonna be a daily driver, my advice is go 90.5mm or 94mm pistons/cyl.  

[dannyboy]

hey, give me a call or drop by airspeed, i can guide you through all your options
-dan

[BreakinSouls]

Cool I'll do that.
 

[Bruce]

Assuming you only have one car and you use it every day year round, I recommend a 1776.  Machine work required on both the heads and case.

[KOOL-AID MAN]

I've been driving my car  to abbotsford and back for work the past 7-8 months, and its been great, it has a 1914cc with dual carbs. You just need to spend time tunning the motor once a month and  oil changes every 3 months and i think a 1914cc would be good, just dont drive it hard all the time.... lol

Ohh yeah and the bug looks good, that before shot isnt to pleasent, nice work!!

[BreakinSouls]

Yeah that thing was damn ugly the spoiler was glued on with bondo it came off in one piece. As for the body work on it now, it is what you call good from a far. Not as good as I'd like But I drives and that what matters right now.

I recommend a 1776. Machine work required on both the heads and case.

So even for a 1776cc machine work is required? And what is the power difference between 1776 and 1914cc? Cost difference? And someone told me an 1835cc was the best all around motor, Opinions?

Thank for info guys!    

[Cameron]

I would like to add my two cents worth of advice.

If you want a daily driver with a little more umph, and total dependabilty, keep your 1600 and just add a Kadron carb kit, a 009 distributor, and a header system.

Sometimes, happiness is stock, with a few bolt on parts. If you don't have these parts, you are going to want to put them on your bigger motor, anyway.  

[Hansk]

And someone told me an 1835cc was the best all around motor, Opinions?

 

No way!!!   1835cc requires the use of 92mm piston & cylinder kit. These have the thinest cylinder wall of all the kits . I don't think anyone actually sells 92's any more these days anyway. I hope not anyway.
As for the power difference between 1775 and 1914...my guess is probably somewhat relative to the increase in size , about 8%  assuming all else is unchanged.
 But like Cam said , if you don't have the carbs , distibutor , header, get those first!!

[BreakinSouls]

Ok so I have thought about my options and decided I will have to build my big motor later on down the road because I don't the funds to build what I want. So instead I would like to rebuild my stock 1600dp, But I'd like to build it with at least some Jam to it.

So again I'd like some help or input into what I can do to give my 1600 a little pep. ie...  Cam, higher compression. I do already have dual 40mm Solex's, header and will be putting a 009 distributor.

Thanks  

[GRK]

Before Hansk rebuilt my sandrail into a 1914 it was a very tired 1600 and I put Kadrons on it, had the 009 dist and made a huge differance going up the sand dunes!

[Bullyboy]

If you have the Kads already,  call AJ Simms at Lowbugget.com
He's the kadron guru. He can set you up with a nice set of heads and a SVDA distributor to get rid of that flat spot off idle. More power in that 1600 can be made with the right heads.

[silas]

1.25:1 rocker arms.

if you have heater boxes, get rid of them and get j-tubes.