Author Topic: Paint Troubles  (Read 4685 times)

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Offline ghiafreak

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Paint Troubles
« on: May 16, 2005, 08:32:17 PM »
OK (deep breath) So I have just discovered that while the construction folk were repairing and painting my townhouse they oversprayed the lovely brown paint. I moved my baby out of the carport specifically so that it would not be anywhere near the paining area and I ( and a couple of neighbors too) now have my ghia covered in teeny tiny speckles of brown paint.  :o The surface of the paint on the body, chrome as well as the windshield is covered in a sand-like film. What do I do???? I have always wanted to get my act together and have it painted but something always came up that was more important to spend the $$ on. I have a feeling that when I get ICBC to look at it that they will send me to some cheap and crappy place to get the job done. Any suggestions? Words of wisdom?  

Offline Swartz

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« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2005, 08:42:55 PM »
what about getting a cut polish or something for the paint, and a razor blade on the glass?
Everything takes time

Offline Chris

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« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2005, 08:43:35 PM »
could it be polished out? I would think that if you had a good finish coat on the car it would have a tough time adhering, just a thought.

Offline ghiafreak

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« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2005, 08:49:11 PM »
Please don't laugh - OK. What is a cut polish ad how do I get one? The paint is original so is not perfect....there are a couple of small (nickle sized) spots of rust...    

Offline Mowser

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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2005, 08:52:37 PM »
Pm slammedbus,he's a body and paint guy......
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Offline KOOL-AID MAN

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« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2005, 10:14:57 PM »
If its on your glass steel wool would be great to take that off, and a cut polish for the rest of the spots.

Offline ehos

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« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2005, 10:58:25 PM »
I would try a clay bar first.  It should be less invasive than rubbing compound/ 'cut' polishes etc.

Offline Needles

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« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2005, 11:29:04 PM »
Quote
Please don't laugh - OK. What is a cut polish ad how do I get one? The paint is original so is not perfect....there are a couple of small (nickle sized) spots of rust...
Okay,

A number of years ago when I was right into car detailing a product came into the market, (PRO products) that cost a fortune but removed overspray.--has come down in price... A CLAY BAR...

I was able to first hand experience this 'WONDER' product, removing white paint overspray aff of a 'BLACK' M3 (Sigh... a long a tedious job)

Just recently I saw a likeness of this product made my 'Mothers' @ LORDCO. It is a block of clay:CALIFORNIA GOLD
« Last Edit: May 17, 2005, 09:31:47 AM by Niedrig und Langsam »

Offline Needles

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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2005, 11:35:56 PM »
Quote
I would try a clay bar first.  It should be less invasive than rubbing compound/ 'cut' polishes etc.
Unless you know what you are doing....  STAY AWAY FROM RUBBING COMPOUND!!!!! :(  :(  :(

It will F$$CK up yopur paint... ( I know...)

Here are some things to consider:

If you were to go into some of the top detailing shops around town you would see that they use different products for different applications. My opinion is that preperation before applying the wax or sealant is the key to the finished product. where have you heard that before?

Products to consider:
1.  Car Brite --located in Coquitlam  Rob 604-309-5446
2.  3M products  Lordco
3.  Pro Products/BASF (B&C Auto Detail Supply #113-20530 Langley By-Pass  604-533-1300)
4.  Meguires/Mothers Products--Lordco
 
Some steps to consider

1. Never, never wash your car in the sun  (cold water on hot metal--Science 9)
2. Use a two bucket system (preferablly tall buckets)
    - 1 is a rinse bucket
    - 1 is the wash bucket
4. Rinse of the car first (hose)
    - this removes any large chunks of sand/dirt/barf etc.
5. Use a cotton or wool wash mitt
  A. Mitt goes to wash bucket then clean a part of da car
  B. Mitt goes to rinse bucket, dip it in and out a few times do not wring it out (as this embeds the dirt in to the mitt)
  C. Nearly all of the grit and dirt will fall to the bottom of the rinse bucket
  D. At the end you should have a near empty wash bucket and a very dirty rinse bucket
6.  Start from the roof-all the windows-hood-trunk (always work in quadrants)
     rinse as you go
7.  The sides of the car/below the leading edge of the door are the second to last parts to do
    - use the rinse bucket more often at this point
8.  Do your wheel rims and tires last
    - use a stiff nylon brush and a strong bio-degradable cleaner for the tires.

 Never, never cut or wax your car in the sun, or on an extremely warm day. Try and work in a controlled envioronment (garage/carport out of the sun)


Polish:  Is for the cut; usually is a chemical base; be careful of a grit base( rubbing compound)--very,very aggresive
Wax:    Use 100% Carnuba ( Its what the purest use)
I prefer using paint sealant--lasts longer, I then apply 3-5 thin coats of 100% Carnuba Brazilian Wax

Polish/Wax/sealant--always apply in thin coats ( do small quadrants )

Stay away from Turtle Wax--It actually has a cut polish in it.

PREPERATION IS THE KEY

-  Black & dark cars add an extra hour for prep--Some of the higher end products have special polishes that are formulated for a dark surface.
- Find someone who has a variable speed cut polisher/foam pads work the best least likely to burn the paint, although the old-timers /more experianced detailers use wool pads
- never lean into the cut.
- let the polisher do the work.
- never over work a pad, clogged pads make more work
- work in small quadrants


Hope this helps,

Unfortunately I am presently a 'GIMP' and unable to do any work for awhile

I owned and operated a mobile car detailing co a few years ago, working out of Kits/West side of Vancouver.
'immaculate CAR-ception :D
« Last Edit: May 17, 2005, 09:30:47 AM by Niedrig und Langsam »

Offline ehos

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« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2005, 12:43:32 AM »

Thank you for restating what I just said.  Use a clay bar before anything else.  You can get more and more agressive if it doesn't work.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2005, 12:47:13 AM by ehos »

Offline Needles

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« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2005, 07:06:33 AM »
Quote
Thank you for restating what I just said.
:huh:
« Last Edit: May 17, 2005, 07:06:54 AM by Niedrig und Langsam »

Offline Bruce

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« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2005, 04:24:05 PM »
Before you do anything, I'd file a claim against the painting co. through ICBC.  It doesn't matter what your car looks like, they are responsible for the damage they did.  ICBC does not dictate where you take your car to get it fixed.  It could be that a full detail is needed to remove the paint, and that might cost more than the deductible.  If you file a claim, you are not obligated to follow through with it if you decide to fix it yourself.  There is no cost to you to do this.

Offline ghiafreak

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« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2005, 07:37:22 PM »
Wow! You guys rock! Thanks for all of the advice!  I will let you know how I make out....

Offline bufferman

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« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2005, 11:26:45 PM »
hi
where about are you if you need a hand let send me an e mail have done about 30 jobs like that in the past few months  have a little detail shop
steve
 
When you remove the people's right to bear arms, you create slaves

Offline ghiafreak

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« Reply #14 on: June 24, 2005, 11:52:11 AM »
Unforunately I am not able to do the polish myself. I've got the ICBC estimate lined up but the company who did the overspray is willing to pay me cash for the cost of the repair. Could some one give me a recommendation on a detail/body  shop where I could get the polish done - any good references in the North Van/Vancouver/Burnaby area? The detail shop that I was recomended can't get me in until after the long weekend and I want to get this done and move on.

Thanks!!   :D  

Offline ghiafreak

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« Reply #15 on: July 28, 2005, 07:06:53 PM »
:wub: It is done!!!! The polish completely exceeded my expectations. I don't know that my paint has ever looked so good.