Some notes on a straight axle conversion (type 2)

[iceneweb]

OK, folks I am going to be making notes here on my epic straight axle conversion for my 64 bus so as to hopefully save some of you the pitfalls and downright heartache I have had to endure. Ths page will be modified as I add new info rather than making loads of replies, though if you have any questions please fire away.

Some quick points:

- 64 bus
- Old Speed drop plates
- stock type 2 gearbox with a flipped ring gear
- type 3 rear brakes

OK, so . . . . . some things you need to get together before attempting the above:

- do a search on the Samba for Old Speed drop plates, or use another vendors straight axle spring plates.

- you will also need E-brake outer cable extenders from the same vendor as your drop/spring plates.

- The kit will NOT include the three bolts per side you need from the drop plates to the axle tubes. The bolts can be found at local parts stores (M12x 35mm), make sure they are Grade 10.9 as they are under a lot of strain.

- if you are going to flip the ring gear, many advise on having the backlash setup 'properly' though the more adventurous(ie reckless) people don't make adjustments at all and leave the bearings as they were.

- type 3 brakes:
- backing plates and hardware kits are very scarce. The HW kits can be found new on Samba, though you can get by with type 1 stuff in a pinch. Backing plates can be found used.
- drums are very expensive but can be found new
- type 3 drums have M12 wheel bolt holes, and thus need to be enlarged to M14 to match your bus front drums (on a 64 anyway, not sure about other years)
- your existing rear hard brake lines will be too long. Swap them for type 1 lines.
- you will need the spreader-bar and e-brake lever from a type 1 or type 3.
- you will need a short and long spacer. The ones from your 68 axles should fit fine.
- you will need outer bearings and seals (Common to most years of Type1/3)

- you will need 68 type 1 axle tubes and axles (i believe type 3 are the same). Make sure you get the bearing caps with the tubes.

- you will need a sense of humour, thick skin and an ability to walk away from the job before destroying everything in sight when some small, normally insignificant little thing stops you in your tracks.

- you will need coffee, cold beer and fatty sweet things to eat plus a large bag of 'greasy fingerprint' chips.

- this project will take you at least twice as long as you estimate, unless you have a spotless, well-lit and warm shop and a crew of helpers

over and out . . .

Mark

[iceneweb]

Well, finally got the old girl back together a few days ago and wow what a difference in useability the revised gearing makes.

I can now comfortably keep up with traffic and not have to scream the engine.

The tire/wheel specs are:

Wide five all around, no adaptors.

Front:

- flipped spindles, which lowers it by 3.5" from WagensWest
- Continental Touring 175/55/15 tires used from Country Tire in Langley, original rear fitment on a Smart Car
- Rocket Empi copies, 15x5.5
- stock drum brakes
- stock length shocks

Back:

- offset drop plates from Old Speed in California, drops it by 4"
- Yokohama Avid Touring tires, 185/60/15, which I could barely squeeze past the fender lip
- Rocket Empi copies, 15x5.5
- Type 3 rear drum brakes, drilled out to M14 from M12
- stock length shocks

I am happy to answer any questions you might have about all this.

Mark