oil cooler thermostat

[Jord63]

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5516
Anyone ever use one of these? Are they reliable? I want put an oil cooler in my car because its starts to get up around 210 deg F after a long freeway drive but it also takes a while to get up to temp, driving from Aldergrove to langley (going to work)  in the summer, it anly gets to about 160 Deg F and doesnt get there untill I get to work. So I dont want the oil cooler to prolong the warm up time anymore. I thought this thermostat might be the answer but dont know anyone that has used one.  Any input would be appreciated.

[BUSDADDY]

Where's your temp sender located and why do you think those numbers are a problem?

An external cooler adds a hell of a lot of new places to leak and suddenly destroy your engine, a well tuned, well sealed engine shouldn't have cooling issues.

[Bruce]

An external cooler adds a hell of a lot of new places to leak

I like the idea of an external cooler that is thermo bypassed, however, this is exactly why I don't have one.

A few years ago I heard about a mythical oil cooler that had it's own thermal bypass.  This would eliminate all those potential leak points of the thermo valve. However, I could never find the manufacturer.

210ºF is not a problem.  230ºF is the limit for dino oil.  What oil are you using?

Your short drive is part of the reason it doesn't get up to temp.  Do you have the stock thermostat and cooling flaps?

[68IIIbuggy]

Those oil thermostats work OK, but they are designed so some of the oil still goes through the cooler when cold, and all the oil goes through when hot, so you'll still be overcooling your oil in the wintertime.

[Jord63]

I drilled and tapped the casting plug to the right of the crank pulley and put the sender in there so it is basicly sitting in the oil "pan". 160 just seems a little cold after a five minute warm up and 20 min drive at 70-80 kph in the summer, I dont drive it in the winter.
No I am not running flaps and thermostat but maybe I should be thinking about it if I run a cooler.
210 doesnt seem to bad, but I havent let it go over that. It will sit at around 190 for about an hour and a half of freeway driving, 65 mph at about 2700rpm, then it seems to start climbing pretty quick and when it gets to about the 210 mark I slow it down and/or pull over and let her cool a bit. Not a big deal for around here but was an issue when driving to Reno and I was toying with the idea of driving it to the Classic this year. Thanks for the input guys.

[Jord63]

Sorry, just thought I should rephrase where I put the sender. I drilled and taped the casting plug HOLE, not the plug itself, and installed the sender in there with an adaptor. 
I am running 15w40 oil, high zinc and phosphate levels.

[Bruce]

". 160 just seems a little cold after a five minute warm up and 20 min drive at 70-80 kph in the summer,

You should know you shouldn't let it idle to warm up.
Since most wear happens when the engine is cold, and letting the engine idle with no load is the slowest way to warm up the engine, you are maximizing the wear.  You should start it up, let it idle for 10-20 sec until you know you have oil pressure everywhere, then drive it gently for the first few miles.  This warms it up the quickest, minimizing wear.

If you switch to 5W-30, you should see the stable summer freeway temp of 210ºF drop.