Bruce
Is the stock fuel line only supported where it enters and exits the pan? Or does it run through some kind of bracket inside the pan?
It doesn't matter how the stock line is supported, you're not going to use it are you?
Cut it off inside the frame head, and by the shift coupler. Then install a new line beside it, using the stock exit locations.
As I said earlier, it took me less than 15 min to install a new line in a car with the body on. Here's what I did:
Remove:
all cover plates up front. Frame head, body by the bottom of the spare tire, front apron/hood latch
the shifter
one seat
the back cover by the coupler
the left rear wheel.
I took the cage off my trouble light so I could stick the whole thing in the tunnel at the back.
From the front, feed the line in, making sure you pass below the cross brace at the pedals. You need to keep watching so you don't get caught up in all the tubes in there. Once you get to the coupler, insert a piece of welding rod into the left frame horn at the fuel line's exit hole until it comes out at the coupler. Put the end of the welding rod inside the fuel line. Now continue feeding the fuel line until it comes to the exit hole. Some wiggling of the welding rod may be needed to get it out. Once you get it through, cut it off at the front, then put whatever bend in the line you want so it will exit the hole at the front. Do this outside the pan, then put it in the pan with the line going out the grommet. You may want to put a dog leg bend in the line at the rear too.
Once you've got it all in, you should secure it. I used really long nylon zip straps to tie the line to any other lines in the tunnel, including the stock fuel line you left in there. Using long hemostats, I was able to insert the straps and wrap them around the tubes, then pull the end out of the tunnel. With both ends of the strap out of the tunnel, it's easy to zip them up.
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