toying with a build up for my SC

[pete-stevers]

i am in the throws of painting my single cab......rust free of course:)
but i am thinking out loud , cause it doesn't cost a damn thing!
If i was to start with a new fangled alum block, and i have no asperations of anything over 80 hp
skool me on parts( from crankto carbs to cooling) that would be preferable for a motor built for longevity, and very moderate cr, good bottom end, but with a happy torque curve.
course cost is an issue, because i have a wife, and kids, and a few other habbits

[BUSDADDY]

Sounds like you're describing a type 4 with a DTM shroud conversion.

[pete-stevers]

i do have an old 1700 out of a 914 sitting around, but i would prefer to build up a type one, even though the 1700 has a better bottom end

[steveo_32]

First off, why aluminum block? they are what 700 bucks??

You could take a stock block in good shape, full machining and matching heads for what? less than 300 bucks
Line bore, cam journals, deep stud Number 3 hole, Full flow.

I would use a 69mm counter weighted crank, eight doweled, lighten the flywheel, eight dowel ect ect.

buy some 94mm pistons, slap some big valves in some stock heads, nuttin major, port and polish to get some nice flow in those restricted old heads.

Nice oil pump, engle 100 ish camshaft.

Now as for carbs, a 1914 can run well on about anything, from kads, to webbers, to dells
You can either buy new kads, or get a set of A.J. simms from the us, buy some 36 baby dells, or webbers,36 to 40 (I would put 40 to 44 on if you bump the Comp to like 9.0 and up

Just my thoughts thou...

[pete-stevers]

well it has always been my thought that stronger is better, and alum is a lot tougher than mag, with less give, it should suppot the crank better, and cip has them for 500 plus
the  early nine-elebin guys go gagga for an alum block over mag so i just figure id follow suit...
but you have a point, money doesn"t grow on trees, (but apples and oranges do!)

[Bubba]

I would second the type 4 motor idea.

[Bruce]

i have no asperations of anything over 80 hp

If they made a cast iron block, would you use that?

For 80hp, all you need is a stock mag case.  Cared for, it will live well over 100k miles.

The aluminum case will cause higher oil temps.  Also adds unnecessary weight at the wrong end of the car.

[pete-stevers]

Where does one get ones heads built??
and where to get the crank polished, cams resurfaced etc
what are expected costs machining and p+cs

[steveo_32]

K-roc on the site, does heads, Or you can just buy some CB heads from Cip1
Or the samba.

Crank polishing is any machine shop,

And I think Ed at the bug shop does all the Machining and can match the heads to the block.

(I don't know if K-roc does the block thing)

Cheers.......................jerk

[pete-stevers]

always better to be a jerk than a dirty greasy asshole!!

[pete-stevers]

Sounds like you're describing a type 4 with a DTM shroud conversion.

not sure if you know the cost of building a solid type four
a half decent 2056 is going to run south of 5 for parts
and then the "while your in there" kicks in.....
and then it grenades (insert burnt money smiley)
i would prefer to stick with the type one
and keep it simple

 

[Bubba]

The only things that are more costly in a type 4 than a type 1 are heads, cooling, and exhaust.  Done properly, niether engine will 'grenade', unless you are not paying attention to tuning and head temps.  The type 4 is more robust, and if you build it from a reliability perspective, it will pay for itself in longevity.

The reason most of this is moot, because the average person puts around 5K a year on thier aircooled VW.  So a type one that has to be torn down at 50K will still get you 8-10 years of driving.  And that is acceptable for a lot of people.   A lot of type 4 based vehicles, including busses that haven't been beaten or neglected show main and rod bearings with very little wear after 100 to 150k.  Sure, you may have to freshen the heads during that period.

The payoff is in torque.  Even a modest engine (125~hp) type 4 gives you gobs of torque, which is what gives you the drivability and grin factor.  Cruising and passing power - even in a camper.

To get the same in a type 1 would be a bit more high strung, and while cheaper to build, would not last as long.

Your choice.  Either is good.  It is a matter of what you want.  Long lasting (quality), Cheap, or Fast.  You can have any two.