Think Twice About Engine Flushes And Oil

[AlanU]

Make a long story short I'd say let an engine die a horrible death by natural causes. I had a customers 97 Camry with 160,000kms on it. An old man with terrible oil change intervals let the sludge build. Toyota V6's are plagued with sludge issues.

Thursday I put engine flush in a sludge v6 toyota motor. I am very uncomfortable even doing such a thing but I also removed the oil pan to clean the screen on the pickup. The oil pressure light was on due to NO oil pressure (tested also with mechanical oil pressure guage). Now after flushing and cleaning the screen the engine finally got the oil pressure to turn the oil light out. Odd thing is the engine never clacked with that light on. \"Glitteries\" in the oil  indicated something was going on.  Upon delivery to the customer (elderly couple) SCREEEEEECH. Motor siezed. This happened with a new filter and 5w30.

the sludge in the oil pan was frightening (good cup \"starbucks grande\" of charcoal sludge.  That particular engine was destined to seize but your screwed if you do something or screwed if you dont due to no oil pressure at the oil sender.

I know many cases of oil flushes wasting engines with alot of deposits. Happens alot!!!

My suggestion to people is if your engines run with dino oil with high mileage I'd stick with it. Lower
mileage vehicles can safely switch to synthetics but be careful with ESTER based synthetics or even PAO for detergent action.

Stay away from most \"flushes\" due to quick removal of deposits/sludge clogging filters and plugging oil galleries. In this Camry's case the newly developed oil pressure more than likely moved deposits in crucial areas clogging main bearing oil galleries.

The old couple is now considering a new corolla with a 1.8l (1zz engine family).  No hard feelings since they understood the lack of maintenance has finally caught up to them.

To vdub and nonVW cars...change the friggen oil every 5000-6000 km's with a decent synthetic group 3 \"hydrocracked mineral oil\"  or Dino oil. If you feel spending the extra coin on Pao or ester based synthetic it'll be your choice.

enuf of my rambling..........


 

[silas]

To vdub and nonVW cars...change the friggen oil every 5000-6000 km's with a decent synthetic group 3 \"hydrocracked mineral oil\"  or Dino oil. If you feel spending the extra coin on Pao or ester based synthetic it'll be your choice.

good stories, uncle alan. B)

i change the oil in my 64 every 1500-2000 miles.....because it is the cheapest and easiest form of preventative maintenance.

 

[Cameron]

i change the oil in my 64 every 1500-2000 miles.....because it is the cheapest and easiest form of preventative maintenance.

I agree. It's always cheaper to change your motor oil, than your motor.

[GRK]

my 95 camry had 100,000 km engine was puffing like crazy! There was enough sludge in it to pave my driveway! Toyota recomended an oil flush I did it 2 x engine never got better. In the end took it to a differant mechanic( private guy)the valve covers were full almost flush with crud , top end you couldn't even see any metal parts for the sluge in the motor! I know that there was a law suite for I believe 97 ish camry's and the owners won their case, a couple months before I had to put a newer engine in mine.


Gary