I found this article on the web a long time ago. I hope this helps you.
\"\"\"\"Bolt On Modifications - Getting The Most Out Of Your Stock VW
Engine and Transmission Modifications
Synthetic Gear Oil: 30 minute job. If you are sick of difficult shifting when it's really cold, replace that dinosaur gear oil with a good synthetic. It will shift like butter in even the coldest temps, and give a slight increase in mileage too! If you have a new transmission, do NOT use synthetic initially (during the break in period). You can start using synthetic after your new tranny has about 6000 miles on it.
Fuel Hose: 1 hour job. I strongly recommend cloth braided fuel hose. Every 6 months, you should inspect it! Bend it over 180 degrees, and if it cracks or is stiff, REPLACE IT. Leaking fuel hose is the #1 cause of those smoldering VWs you see on the side of the road. Don't be a statistic. Install the fuel filter next to the transmission; you should NOT have a filter between the pump and carb. The added weight of the fuel in the filter at THIS location can wiggle the fuel fitting in the carb loose, and it will pop out spraying gasoline all over your hot engine AND THE DISTRIBUTOR (sparks + gasoline = empty wallet + tears + no more car) while the engine continues to run. Don't say we didn't warn you!
Replace Points and Condenser with Pertronix or Compufire: 20 minutes to install. Contrary to popular \"wisdom\", you are not going to get a huge power increase with this part. You WILL get a no maintenance item (unless you love adjusting points and timing), which gives rock-steady ignition timing under all conditions. In my opinion, this is a must-do modification even for stock cars! Getting the rubber grommet into the hole properly is the hardest part of the job (I'm not kidding).
Distributor; this upgrade usually astounds VW drivers! The SVDA Distributor is the way to go (we have models for almost every application), and gives a \"stock appearance\" to the engine. If you have a 34 PICT carb, this is the distributor for you. Another 3 mpg over the original push/pull or pull only distributor, not to mention the dreaded 009 (flat spot)! If you want the BEST, there is no equal to a Mallory Distributor (be sure to get vacuum advance for best results).
Add a CDI to your Ignition System: under an hour. The Capacitive Discharge Ignition provides a major ignition upgrade, and can be installed in under an hour. Spark plugs last 4X longer and plug gap can be opened up to .040\". In return for the investment in a CDI, you get 3-4 mpg better mileage and your starts with a quick turn of the key even on cold mornings (instead of 2-3 seconds of cranking before it fires up). SMOOTH running, even before it's warmed up! Must be used with a set of Super-Mag Plug Wires (the higher energy produced by the CDI will overwhelm stock or used wires), and complete the ensemble with a new set of NGK plugs (better than Bosch).
Replace the Ignition Cap & Rotor: 3 minutes (give or take). Bosch is the ONLY brand of these parts that I recommend you install. Leave the clear distributor caps for the show cars (they run like crap). Make sure you switch wires one at a time!
Replace Muffler with 1 3/8\" Exhaust Header: Plan on 3 hours if it's your first time. This is an easy bolt on item. Use a GERMAN muffler kit, or flange kit for a no-leak install. Stick to 1 3/8\" unless you have some pretty decent flowing heads, AND have removed the heater boxes (they are a restriction) OR used a high-flow set of heater boxes (we will be making these soon). The hardest part of a header installation is getting your old muffler off without breaking the exhaust studs!
Install Ratio Rocker Arms: 1-2 hour installation time. If you can adjust valves, you can install these. They MUST be used with shorter pushrods. We recommend 1.4 rockers (which DO work on stock engines). 1.25 rockers give you almost no gain for your work; waste of effort. 1.25's work well with some high performance cam shafts but you have to know what you're doing! 1.4's will really wake up a stock engine, especially if it's a dual port, and if you have additional carburetion. Replace your valve cover gaskets at the same time. If you have problems with leaky valve covers, make sure that you use genuine VW valve covers and bails.
Have your flywheel lightened: (engine removal is required for this modification) If you are uncoordinated at driving a stick, or have a HEAVY car (baja, bus or type 3 or 4), this modification is NOT for you. The lightened flywheel will allow the engine to rev faster. Do NOT add a heavy duty clutch unless you get an 8-doweled crank and flywheel to keep the flywheel on tight! Don't forget that changing flywheels requires you to re-set the endplay, and it's strongly recommended (by me) that you change your flywheel seal (main seal) and o-ring. It is also a good idea to put in a new gland nut. Don't forget to have flywheel shims on hand and an end play tool. You are in there, so you may as well do it. Check your clutch while you're at it, too!
Carburetion: VW engines are EXCEPTIONALLY under-carbureted. You have many options, all of which require more exhaust flow (you did that already, remember? -- see \"Replace Muffler with 1 3/8\" Exhaust Header\").
First option is the center mount 2bbl, which can be a SOB to tune, and requires manifold heat. Jetting this sucker can take a while, but if/when you get it right, it's a fantastic setup. It ONLY works on upright engines (type 1 and 2), since type 3 and 4 engines don't have manifold heat, and a center mount carb WILL ice up and be a nightmare to drive!
Then there are dual-single bbl carbs. Choose from Kadrons, FRDs (Dellorto's), ICTs (Weber), and the elusive electric choke Solex.
