Weird Weird Weird

[bochintz]

ok where to start...
1500 stock type one
engine was leaned out by an un named shop in van
to pass air care successful
returned and re set and thats when the problem started
so now major oil leaks push rod tubes baked and leaking badly
cylinders look over heated kinda blue color around the top where the heads meet
so determined that when they leaned it out it over heated right or wrong?
and have had poor performance since
specifically when the motor heats up it starts sputtering worse and worse til it stalls
and won't start up til it's cooled down or is very hard to start and won't run very nice
re did the seals new plugs timing to tdc .006 on the valves found one adjuster
to be pounded flat with sharp edge so replaced that 016 on the points
runs great when it's cold when it heats up after about 20 to 30 mins city drivin
gets real rough if i put it in neutral and rev it up sounds fine when it's hot and under load runs very poor
so it craps out and stalls when i'm drivin so i get it started and drive it slow it barely makes it back to the garage sounds worse if i put my foot to the floor so i back of and it does sound so bad
it makes a very strange squeaking noice only when it's hot and it back fires when i'm down shifting or slowing down it always gets gas and spark
could the overheating trashed the valves or valve guides???
i'm stumped
please help
you guys are my last hope or you might see a 68 bug for sale soon
thanks for reading all this and hoping for the best


 :wacko: GEoff :wacko:  

[BUSDADDY]

Done a compression test? How about when it's hot?

Could be loose heads.

[Hansk]

My feeling is  that if it was running well enough to pass air care , no damage would have resulted from that alone .  Maybe a vacuum leak has developed since then ? (squeaking sound?) vacuum hose off/broken ?  Plugged idle jet?  choke or idle solenoid wire unplugged/broken ?  What are the results of a compression test now ?

[bochintz]

sorry bout the quick hang up this morning hansk
i quess a comp. test is in order
almost everything has been checked new seals on the intake torqued to spec
new vacuum hose

[GMB]

Check for rag in fan, thermostat flaps stuck closed. Just leaning out the mixture screw will not cause overheating like you are experiencing. But retarding the timing will specially at idle.
    Gary

[AlanU]

Check for rag in fan, thermostat flaps stuck closed. Just leaning out the mixture screw will not cause overheating like you are experiencing. But retarding the timing will specially at idle.
    Gary

Gary's on the right track.

Many times retarding the timing will help the idle test in cleaning up HC and CO. She'll get freaking not if its retarded significantly.

Not sticking up for the aircare shop but sometimes even tweeking a stocker can piss a tech off. They are temperMENTAL and long idling when tweeking can get limited CFM flow to the heads when at 1000 rpms.

I'd double check your base timing and see what the timing is at 3000+ rpms. Also double check your valve lash.

A coil can act up when the engine gets to operating temps. This can cause odd ignition issues. Is your dwell set properly??

backfiring?? You may have a vacuum leak and its making your engine get on the lean side (lean backfire). As the engine gets hot things will expand and possibly do wierd things.  

[bochintz]

well i was almost to the point of having it fixed -so i thought-
even went so far as to wash and polish the little von wagen
new wires ,cause they we're arcing at the coil connections
dist. cap ,rotor ,condenser and coil. so now i'm focusing on the carb
seems like it's flooding out ,strong smell of gas and it seems to have leaked out the base of the
carb-which isn't possible cause of sealant- permatex for those of you keeping score
more so out of the butterfly bushings
this has only happened once it doesn't drip out just seeps so now i'm wondering about the float settings
and needle valve operation in the float chamber.
very much thinking of finding a good used german carb
this one is some foreign one 30/31pict

thanks for looking
GEoff

[GMB]

Check your fuel pressure. I know for a fact that stock fuel pumps can put out 6.5 lbs of pressure which will overwhelm the needle and seat. Overflowing float bowl is the only thing that will cause fuel to leak at the throttle plate. This could cause bad idle, crazy variable hydrocarbons at idle and stalling at idle. It will also cause rich running at all RPMs.
    Gary.

[bochintz]

so.....
after nearly wearing a hole in my cranium from scratching my head
i finally got it to work I hope
changed old for brand new coil plugs wires condenser points rotor cap all connectors in motor compartment
and the float in the carb which was giving me the hard starts and leaking fuel from the curb
was not able to figure out where it was leaking from but know that it stopped when i swapped out the float as mentioned before it's a 30/31 from cip whos fault it is not and the carb comes with some stupid foam like float which in turn became saturated
knowing this only after cutting it in half and squeezing it with vice grips
i also noticed that it was sitting very low in the fuel
so put a plastic float out of a 34 pict and starts every time no matter what the temp
glad i didn't spend 200$on a new carb

so can you buy floats new???

and one more little question

what would cause a coil to over heat? if all electrical is replaced?

thanks everyone for your help  B)