Whats The Scoop On Unilite Distributors: Look

[AlanU]

Mallory Unilite (no vac)

If you haven't seen them up close its well constructed. The timing light doesn't bounce whatsoever. You can change the total advance to whatever you like from 14-28 degrees(I'm not including the base timing. I got the grey springs to snap to full advance quicker. I must admit my bosch 050 with pertronix had a very quick advance curve but using a timing would be bouncing everywhere. My 050 is sorta \"unobtainium\" and it does have a crappy 4k ohms resistor in the rotor  to kill spark output (even though I no problems).

Now the timing light is absolutely rock solid from idle to high rpms. The pictures posted below show a picture of slots on the bottom of the rotor to fire the cylinders with the LED pickup. Nice brass rotor to direct full KV output from the coil to the contacts to each individual cylinder.

Setting the advance total without the \"plastic guage\" is a minor challenge. Even with the proper advance \"kit\" wouldn't be all that beneficial IMO.

The Mallory isn't  crank trigger but its sure damn close for a simple bolt in IMO.

[josh]

very nice dist. why'd ya skip the vac can option?  

[AlanU]

very nice dist. why'd ya skip the vac can option?

Josh,

I couldn't be bothered to get Venturi vacuum. With those grey springs my advance curve kicks in at maybe 1500-1700 rpms!!! I'll have to see  what happens on hot days. That my pose as a detonation maker. I can see an advantage using vacuum for a heavier vehicle  but for a hotstreet application I non Vac version suites me well.

I took the car for a spin around the block and she's working well. My 050 had a very fast aggressive advance curve too so I'm not seeing a world of a difference in low rpm grunt. However I think the unilite has a faster aggressive ramp curve. Going from a 009 distributor to a unilite would be a night and day difference without a question.

Pulling  the motor soon due to a suspected lifter bore issue. My virgin mag case didn't like the hard pounding of an fk47. FK46 is going in my DMS full circle 2332 but this ones silicon bronzed sleeved case!!

Josh monitor your oil when you slap your lifter bore eating fk46 too!!!      Dont be suprised when you fire her up she' s gonna clack clack clack and your gonna thing WTF is that noise?? Rampy cams will slam shut  your valves with your chevy valvetrain in your CE's. Alot of sideload on the lifter body will eat your lifter bores. Drag cars like yours will be fine    joking aside if your gonna drive alot of street sleeving is adviseable IMO.

Back to the mallory. Precise timing is gonna make more power compared to scattered ignition.



 

[josh]

15-1700rpm!! whats it at when fully advanced? makes sense about the heavier car needing one with vac.

my case was bushed in aluminum, I dunno why he didn't go silicon bronze but it's gotts be better than mag eh? looking at the sleeves lastnight and the finnish sucks, they have got a swirl pattern all theway through from a reamer. you'd think they would use a hone to finnish, it's stamped rimco

[amishrabbi]

i was looking at these, and i was wondering what is the advantage over a dual point one?

i just need a simple explanation as i wont understand a complicated one

[Tom H.]

I've been using mallorys for a loooong time. Very Nice pieces.

dual points are , ugh, still points. but two that you need to dink with. In my notch, the dual point sports only one and the other is a spare in my parts box. While using a Berg CDI, the points will last as long as the rubbing block.  

a vacumn advance typicaly won't work on a HiPo 4 throat inducted engine due to the low vac signal. It does work nicely on my single TB notch. It gives more advance at high vac signals such as encountered during cruz. 3-4 more mpg and kooler temps is what I see.

 

[AlanU]

i was looking at these, and i was wondering what is the advantage over a dual point one?

i just need a simple explanation as i wont understand a complicated one

One year I was helping Tom time his car and I couldn't believe the rock solid marks on the crank pulley. I was sold!!
I shoulda bought a mallory back then and I woulda saved a good $100. Seems the price went up alot in the last several years.

From what I've heard is the dual points take the load away and allows better longevity to the contact points. 2 points will spread the discharge so things last longer. Points suck!!  You must always re adjust and more prone to points float at high rpms for high performance application.

 

[amishrabbi]

ok, cause in the bug right now i have a 009 with a pentorix (sp?) system, which i believe eliminates points. but ive been known to be wrong. and im getting the bog at low rpm from the 009 and was looking at 010 distributors to step up to

[Mowser]

So here is my ? Is it the same pertronix setup for both the 009 and 010?  I have a Pertronix and was going to put it into my dizzy but after reading a tonne of writeups on the 009 and a 34 pict I'm thinking the pretty little box of ignition component boltons is a waste.  Can I pick up a 010 and put the pertronix into it?  Different?  It's still in the box and never opened so far.  I've seen from further reading that it works on a 050 as well.  What's the scoop with this dizzy?  I may have answered my own question here but is the SVDA my best bet?

[jim martin]

alan we will have to talk curve next time,i have tried alot of  combos with some interesting results.and have a very fast way of determining a good advance curve.
later on when i ran the car with the dist locked at 38 deg i let the j and r safeguard do its thing i recorded the data on the lmi and set the curve to that recorded data .
also i just thought of something from our discussion the other night ,you may want to pull timing out at higher rpm ,you may be supprised what taking 1-3 deg out can do.

[AlanU]

Mowser, You can buy a rebuilt 010 distributor from Glenn Ring in NY.  You can put a #1844 pertronix module in that distributor. When you buy that distributor I'd get a couple spare sets of caps and rotors.

My 050 (with pertronix)  has done me very well. Rotors and caps are almost \"unbotainium\" and are not easy to find.  With an MSD box I'm concerned that I'll fry the 4k resistor built into the rotor and leave me stranded. I have spares. I was forutunate to buy the last of the 050 distributor caps and rotors in Cali at Vee dub parts unlimited.

Heavier vehicles may benefit from a vacuum rather then centrifugal wieght non vac units. The 010's do have a quick advance curve which will be much \"zippier\" than an 009.

Pertronix ignition modules do work well.  The 009's work but have a slower lethargic curve compared to an 050, 019, 010.  The advance timing built in the distributor is not adjustable(maybe mods can be done)

I just posted pics to let people see what they look like up close.  Unbelievably easy to adjust and changing springs just nees small needle nose pliers. I like the unilite because I can buy custom talyored wires like Taylor 104's, thunderbolt 8.2 low resistant wireset.  I have my 050 with pertronix as a spare and I can just drop in the engine if murphy's law  happens.

Amishrabbi, the 009 is a very common \"bogg\" maker. The 010 would help the off idle acceleration issue. In a stock application the SVDA with a drop in pertronix unit would work well too.

Jim, I've been running 28 degrees (hard to tell with the jumpy scatter timing I get with my timing light) I see no point going higher with my setup. We can chat later about timing stuff    

[Billyisgr8]

With an MSD box I'm concerned that I'll fry the 4k resistor built into the rotor and leave me stranded. I have spares.

You should dremel out the resister and solder in a solid copper wire,  Then epoxy back over it  Thats what I did.

Kevin

[Tom H.]

The Mallory Hyfire 6 I use pulls spark, its a good thing.  B)

my pointed mallory is in the notch, never sees over 6100 rpm. and the points are only a trigger, no load, so that's why only one set of points in it.

[silas]

So here is my ? Is it the same pertronix setup for both the 009 and 010?  I have a Pertronix and was going to put it into my dizzy but after reading a tonne of writeups on the 009 and a 34 pict I'm thinking the pretty little box of ignition component boltons is a waste.  Can I pick up a 010 and put the pertronix into it?  Different?  It's still in the box and never opened so far.  I've seen from further reading that it works on a 050 as well.  What's the scoop with this dizzy?  I may have answered my own question here but is the SVDA my best bet?

i've exchanged emails with glenn & he suggested that an 010 is not a good match for a 1600dp w/ 34pict3.

we came to the conclusion that for a stock setup a svda distributor is the best bet.

they can be bought from john at aircooled.net or maybe shane & chris at acvw.net can work a deal for you.