Author Topic: Pop Goes The Engine... (Read 5728 times)

James Buchan · « **Reply #30 on:** June 06, 2007, 08:03:42 AM »

Cheap material, vibration, pressure - lots of variables but I think it was a cheap knock off and couldn't handle the stress.

Billyisgr8 · « **Reply #31 on:** June 06, 2007, 08:25:32 AM »

So is the 6 rib forsale?

Kevin

James Buchan · « **Reply #32 on:** June 06, 2007, 08:28:35 AM »

AlanU · « **Reply #33 on:** June 06, 2007, 10:38:19 AM »

Quote

Cheap material, vibration, pressure - lots of variables but I think it was a cheap knock off and couldn't handle the stress.

Cast :!:

evil

red snapper · « **Reply #34 on:** June 06, 2007, 11:18:31 AM »

James, where did you get that cam gear from and what make is it? The reason I ask is, I have one sitting in a box at home and I dont want to take a chance on breaking anything either. Good luck, Brian.

James Buchan · « **Reply #35 on:** June 06, 2007, 12:32:40 PM »

Got it from Airspeed and it was this one that CIP carries: http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?Prod...CC%2DC10%2D5400

Get a good one - this engine has been together for less than 4 years and has well less than 1500Kms on it - everything else inside looked new.

silas · « **Reply #36 on:** June 06, 2007, 07:01:50 PM »

Quote

Is that really stock vw bolts hanging on the rods? What kind of rpms were you turning? If they were, well then that puts that theory out the window of needing ARP's on high reving engines with a 69 stroke. I was paranoid of reving mine past 6400 rpm.

Kevin

i dont understand that logic.

please correct me if i'm wrong, but arent arp bolts stronger than stock vw bolts? if so, would it not be cheap peice of mind to buck up and buy the arp bolts after spending a ton of cash on all your other go fast goodies. with the added load, weight and combustion pressure of a larger than stock motor with a higher c/r, would it not make sense to add some insurance by using stronger bolts? also, if the stock vw bolts have been stretched and re-streched would they not lose their tensile strength and ultimately stretch to much and maybe cause a bearing to wear prematurally or spin?

it would be a shame to spend a ton of cash on big jugs and tops, aswell as heads and all the rest only to have a rod go just because you couldnt spend a few bucks extra on a box of bolts.

just thinking out loud here.

nice to see some broken motor bits james

. good luck with the fix & cant wait to see you burn up the $.25

James Buchan · « **Reply #37 on:** June 06, 2007, 07:23:11 PM »

Stock rods can handle quite a bit of abuse, mine cam out mint other than an oiling issue to one that luckily was caught before any damage was done.

Billyisgr8 · « **Reply #38 on:** June 06, 2007, 08:08:05 PM »

Hey Silas I too am thinking out loud, for every one on a budget who can only afford to swap in a new cam, put on dual carbs or do an exhaust, you don't have to be paranoid about throwing a rod bolt. If you are spending huge cash of course $130.00 is cheap insurance...but most guys spend less than $1000.00 and get by with minimal mods... If you stay with a 69mm stroke, you should be ok is all I'm saying. ARP all the way though if you can afford them when upgrading everything else.

Kevin

silas · « **Reply #39 on:** June 06, 2007, 11:54:04 PM »

i dont doubt that the rods are allright....i was just thinking that since the rod bolts are the last line of defence before the rod and crank are seperated that they would be a part that would be considered when upgrading.

GMB · « **Reply #40 on:** June 07, 2007, 02:25:34 PM »

You runnin dual springs James? Ratio rockers? Who sold you that gear set?

Gary.

James Buchan · « **Reply #41 on:** June 07, 2007, 04:47:59 PM »

Yup dual berg springs - 1.1:1 ratio's and I got the gear from Airspeed - why?

Author Topic: Pop Goes The Engine... (Read 5728 times)

Billyisgr8

Billyisgr8