Author Topic: Hp Engines (Read 3034 times)

notcher · « **on:** April 21, 2007, 03:39:11 AM »

hey all my name is Matt Sanderson and my father and i built a 65 notch for my first car. i would like to build a 2275cc for my gurl and i have a few questions about parts that i should or should not use, so here are my questions. For carbs , i have heard that IDAs are the best bet for a performance oriented engine. Is this true or do you know of a better style or size of carbs i should use? Next questions i have it about the cam. What kind of cam should i use? i have heard that a rough cam would produce the most power and make the engine run the smoothest except durig idling. One concern i have about that is would i be able to drive the car on a daily basis or would you suggest i keep her for a sunny day and weekend drives? Next would be the crank and rods. Right now i have stroker crank that is 30 under with bearings for the case and rods. What should i use for rods? i have been told by one type 3 guy that i shouldnt even try to use a 30 under crank for a HP engine, is that true? For rods i have talked to a couple guys and they suggested the H-beam chromoly with the VW journals. i know there are different lengths to these and i was wondering what the best length would be for me to use. i look forward to all of your input and help. Thanks

Matt

Matt · « **Reply #1 on:** April 21, 2007, 07:22:44 AM »

Hey Matt, good to see you here. Before you buy a bunch of parts for a motor you need to consider one very important aspect of HiPo motors in a type 3. All that hard work you did in the engine bay of your notch will have to be undone, as the carbs don't fit under the deck. It will need to be cut out again.

egspot · « **Reply #2 on:** April 21, 2007, 09:54:44 AM »

I am no expert but, I do own two larger than stock engines. So base on my experiences, here is what i think:

1- My 2165cc was built by a builder for daily use and has a low duration cam. It performs great at low (1000-2500 rpms) end and at higher (4000-5000 rpms). It has lots of power with dual dell 36s.

2- My 1835cc with Kadrons (40s) i got with my new Bug. It has a much rougher cam and not as good to drive at the low end. That makes it not as enjoyable to drive around town and great when I need to go fast.

My two cents= Do your homework and make sure you know what you want the engine for (Daily driver or street/track beast.) Once you know that you will need to do modifications as matt has stated to accommodate the power house.

Good luck man. B)

notcher · « **Reply #3 on:** April 22, 2007, 03:31:52 AM »

hey matt, would it be possible to not have the cover and use those carbs or would i have to cut out the metal around the top of the engine bay that holds the lid in?

what do you mean by a low duriaton cam? im not very familiar with the specific terms just yet :blush: i also wouldnt use it for a daily driver. driving and finding parking in downtown vancouver is not the easiest thing and i really dont feel like spending an arm and a leg on parking passes there. so my girl would be used for evening and weekend driving and for when ever i feel the need for speed

and thats a lot usually haha.

notchback · « **Reply #4 on:** April 22, 2007, 08:16:58 PM »

Matt, If you want to run a carb like a IDA you will have to notch the sheet metal for them. Depending on what kind of power your looking for you could run a set of Dells or IDF's with the shorty manifolds and shorty air cleaners and still run the engine lid. The only thing is the short mainfolds dont work as well as a set of tall IDA manifolds for flow reasons. Your first thing you should think about is your budget for the motor since a decent longblock can set you back at least 5k plus you will need a better trans as well.

notcher · « **Reply #5 on:** April 25, 2007, 05:05:23 AM »

I dont have a problem with cutting the metal around the engine bay out, thats fairly simple work. i really didnt like the lid on the engine anyways, i like being able to see the engine and all the working components, + i am having a mini sound system installed in the area of the rear trunk behind the engind so having a nice detailed engine complmented with a nice lookin sub and amp rack i think it would complete the rear hatch area. the one thing that is on my mind with using the IDAs is air flow. Would i have any major problems with getting enough air into the carbs witht he stock set up or would it be wize to make some kind of adjustment to get more air into the engine bay? transmission wize i was thinking about getting the Gene Berg 5 speed kit and i was going to send a swing axle trans my dad and i have here to get re-built and at the same time have that guy make it the 5 speed. do you think that would be enough to handle the increased power/torque?

amishrabbi · « **Reply #6 on:** April 25, 2007, 01:01:53 PM »

low duration cam is a milder cam, usually better than a high duration cam for daily driving/low rpm driving
(if i remember right the higher the duration the longer the valve overlap is)

notchback · « **Reply #7 on:** April 25, 2007, 03:47:25 PM »

When i was building that car years ago i was building a 2332 and a short geared bullet proof trans. I was going to have the motor upright which meant trimming out and then building new metal around to seal the compartment. For great how to pics take a look at the Notch build up at kustomcoachwerks.com they did an unbelievable job on that compartment. That way you can run whatever you want. As for cams id run something like a k8 or webcam 86b or c. Skys the limits depending on the budget . When i built my motor and trans i used nothing but the best parts and it cost close to 12000.00 although you can get some things cheaper nowadays but i wouldnt skimp on anything as its always the weak link that breaks!!