Author Topic: Breather Box (Read 4730 times)

eric · « **on:** December 31, 2003, 01:25:13 PM »

i just bought a breather box from geoff and i am now in the midst of installing it... i was wondering how people have done theres before, when running the tubing from the valve covers up did you go from the front (facing the front of the car) or the back (the back, duh) of the covers, also did u put the fittings right on the top or were they on the side? where did u put them?
any help would be appreciated.. thanx everyone
-Eric

Hansk · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2003, 02:03:42 PM »

I didn't hook up my covers on any of my motors. Just hooked up the stock vent to my breather box. Keeps the stuff out of the carbs and also passes as a catch can (reqiured) at the track.

Geoff · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2003, 02:48:47 PM »

I would recomend venting the valve covers and doing so at either the top center or toward the front of the car on the top. Do the location that will work best for you and that will make the cleanest instalation.

eric · « **Reply #3 on:** January 01, 2004, 01:06:12 AM »

alright well i got it all installed and the engine back in, cuz i dropped it so it was easer to work on, but now the car runs like crap, it idles very high, when i touch the gas it drops to like almost dead, it doenst reach the rpms it usually does... i messed summin up but i dont know what.. any ideas?

John W. Kelly · « **Reply #4 on:** January 24, 2004, 11:01:16 PM »

Sounds like a vacuum leak Eric.

Bruce · « **Reply #5 on:** January 25, 2004, 12:27:54 AM »

I've got mine mounted on the forward side of the shroud where you can't see it. Out its ends are the hoses connecting to the valve covers. The hose passes straight down through the tin near the spark plug and intake manifold. The tube I welded to the stock valve cover aligns perfectly with the hole in the tin. Then the hose to the right head has a copper Tee in it I found a Lumberland to connect up to the stock breather at the alt stand. It has worked perfectly for me without ever seeing a drop out of the breather. I never do any mtce to it either.

Scratchy · « **Reply #6 on:** January 25, 2004, 09:14:35 PM »

Putting breather tubes in valve covers is a real pain in the a$$ when you want to pop 'em off to adjust valves or just admire those hi-ratio roller rocker arms B) I bet you could really impress the girls if you showed them your hi-ratio rockers

In any case, I drilled and tapped the cylinder head with 3/8th pipe tap just above the exhaust valve spring. (make sure the spring and valve are removed before you drill the hole).
This also entails punching a hole through the cylinder tin for a nice clean installation (I can post a pic of this if you are interested).
I used a brass flared fitting and just flared a piece of copper pipe about 4-6\" long. Then clamped the hose to the pipe,
but if you are into braided stainless, this is definitely the way to go.

Then again, if you build your engine right and treat it nicely [Cale!!!] then you shouldn't really need vents in the top end.

AlanU · « **Reply #7 on:** January 26, 2004, 10:57:00 PM »

Since the breather box is not an enclosed system its basically a catcher of suspended oil \"blowby\". It serves that only purpose since its not recyling any Hydrocarbons. I'm using a bugpack breather which is bolted on my doghouse facing the forward position. If you intend to rev high then its a good idea to vent the valve covers as geoff suggested. Otherwise you may see alot of blowby from your stock oil filler vent foint to the breather. IMO the whole point of using a breather is to appease emission inspections although it does nothing to contain HC vapour for recirculation emission purposes. Theoretically you can basically vent the crankcase without a breather but you may find a mess of white sludge or a spray of blowby everywhere.

Scratchy · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2004, 09:57:11 AM »

This makes it much easier to take the valve cover off & on;

Matt · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2004, 12:01:34 PM »

Scratchy..........what kind of t3 do you have?? and what's with all the dirt on your valves?that can't be good

Scratchy · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2004, 01:09:36 PM »

It WAS my wife's 69 Squareback

I bought her a VW Fox wagen in 1988.
I tried selling it but there were no takers so I called the scrap car pickup guy.
It was hauled away and most likely crushed

The picture of the head is from my 2087 motor which died in 1982. I then put the heads on the 1775 with dual 44IDF's, Engle W140 cam, 1.5\" headers. Power band - 6200-8500RPM. Needless to say, one of the valves let go,
and did a little dance in the combustion chamber. Only a few minor marks on the piston. I took the head back to Headflow performance to have it repaired, but never sent them any money, so it most likely ended up as a doorstop. This is the remaining partner that you see.

So I then rebuilt the T1 - 1775 and converted it to T3 engine tin & mount.
Engle VZ25, 40x35.5 manley ported heads, deep sump, dual Weber 40dcnf & Rebuilt IRS tranny from Transform.
She drove it to & from work for one summer ~ 3000 miles. Of course I pulled this out before scrapping the TIII.

I'm going to use this as my grocery getter motor in my Ghia, but will be reverting back to up-right T1 tin & 44IDFs.
I will be selling the carbs & T3 header and Engine tin.

Here she was in all her splendor:

Glenn · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2004, 02:50:14 PM »

I put 2 holes in the front engine tin (abouve the bell housing) and just run the hose throught it.

Matt · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2004, 03:43:54 PM »

How much do you want for all the tin?? You have everything for a t3 motor I assume?

Matt