94pc Case Bore Pondering

[captCRUNCH]

hey guys, i was thinkin about the 2276 last night and got to thinkin how i was going to bore the case to fit these bad boys. right now i know of 2 options...one being just get the case bored for the 94's (duh), and the second being getting the case cut for 90'5s/92's and turning the cylinders down to the 90.5 size. now i'm sure that both have their ups and downs such as if you bore the case for 94's then you will have a thicker cylinder at the bottom...however once you cut a case for 94's it cannot be cut anymore. also cutting for 94's gets really close to the stud holes, and if one would want to go down to a 90.5 P&C...well get creative. i have heard that there are bushings out there, but i'm sure that a case cut for the proper size is desiered. however if one was to go the other route (being machining the cylinders down to 90.5's and cutting the case for that size) you are left with thin cylinders (at the bottom) however the case could be used for 90.5's or 92's further down the road, and should the cylinder bores get mangled some how they could always be opened up again so 94's could be put in without replacing the case. i haven't heard of anyone having issues turing the cylinders down and cutting 90.5 holes in the case...but i'm sure there are many that think this is a bad way to go. well i was thinkin that couldn't there be a happy medium?? something in between the 90.5 and 94 bore size? like open the case and machine the cylinders?? this way the case could still be opened for 94's later (however i suppose one wouldn't be able to run 90.5's later down the road), but this would also leave a little more meat on the bottom on the 94 cylinders and the case inserts would have more meat around them also.  do i have to much time on my hands, or does ths sound like something that might be an idea?? also i would be interested in other people's thoughts on bore size...machine the case for 94's? or bore for 90.5's and cut the cylinders down to size. thanks for reading  B)  

[Stephan Schmidt]

what are you looking to do with the motor? drag car? daily driver?  are you going to log on tons of miles, few miles?  

you can still use 92mm pistons for that happy medium, but the only thing is, is that the cylinder walls on the 92's are the smallest out of the 90.5's and 94's.  but then, Lee Gong in the states, has run his 2180 for about 3 years now (full track time) and has never had a problem with the 92's.  car runs consistant high-low 11's.  

Stephan

[captCRUNCH]

this is going in my daily driver 72 sedan. i'm just curious in people's thoughts on the subject as a whole...not just a specific application. however i guess every situation is different. the 92 p&c's have the same o.d. as the 90.5's at the base...i'm pretty sure for the tops too (thats why they are so thin...they are 90.5's that have been bored basically).

[Stephan Schmidt]

yah

I had a post about something similar too.  for daily daily driving most people use the 90.5's because they seem to last longer.  

John from the cal-llok forum had gotten about 35,000 miles on his 90.5's before a small tear down, got some bigger heads, 94's and a larger cam, and so far has over 10,000 miles on his 2165 combo.  he drives this car 42 miles every single day.

it all depends.  the big gurus for power always go with the 94's, but a 2110 could be even faster...its all in the heads and combo.  if the combo works well together, you're set.

Stephan

[James Buchan]

Go 94's then you don't have to kick youself for not building it big enough in the first place.

[Hansk]

I say pick a size and stick with it . I know some people may
not agree with me but I don't think you would see a huge power difference
between 90.5 and 94s if all else was the same.Some yes , but not enough
to go through alot of trouble for. It's close to the same money for 90.5s or 94s, pick one and they will probably last for as long as you will use them. If the case you use happens to have 10mm studs and 14mm inserts I think your stuck with 90.5s anyway.Forget about 92s.  If you have alot of time on your hands, there is many many other things in the motor to think about that really could get you some power. cam, heads, carbs or....? , exhaust, deck hieght, compresion ratio, air/fuel ratio , rod ratio's , pulse's , etc. etc.I think these things will be far more important than the size of the piston.

btw. in my opinion, cut the bottoms of 94s to fit 90.5 holes only to save you tearing down the block and having it remachined.

just my 2 cents., lets hear your's

[captCRUNCH]

i know i'm sticking with 94's...i was just curious about the machining possibilities. i think i'll just get my case bored for the 94's and leave the cylinders alone.

[Hansk]

and having the 94s machined would add an extra cost . But I should also
say that I don't think there is any problem with installing the 94s either
way or even the happy medium if you really wanted to, just extra work.

[Scratchy]

Found this here: http://www.cal-look.com/index2.html

LowBugget.com is offering a discount on their step-cut 94mm pistons and cylinders for the month of December. These cylinders are designed so to fit into a case spigot cut for 90.5 cylinders which leaves more material around the case studs resulting in greater strength in high compression and turbo applications. As an option, LowBugget can deck the cylinders for increased compression as well. The Cal-Look.com reduced price is $220 per set. Call or email today and be sure to ask for the Cal-Look.com discount.

So you can buy them \"ready to run\" if you're really worried about it and want to pay the extra price.