Author Topic: Preserving & Protecting Og Pans (Read 3629 times)

silas · « **on:** October 30, 2005, 12:20:47 PM »

yesterday i had a chance to pull the rubber mats and tar board off the pans of the 64. on the drivers side under the rear seat area is a dime size hole and a couple other small cracks. i figure i will patch it or get a pan 1/4 and cut & fit & weld it in.

the rest of the pans are covered with a light surface rust. pitting but no holes. i got out the putty knife and scraped off the tarboard glue and little bit of rust scales. now i will go over it with a wire wheel to clean it up a bit and then cover the surface rust areas with 3m rust inhibitor.

then what?

cover the whole thing (pan) with rust bullet? por-15? tremclad rust paint? what is the best or what is preffered?

all input is appreciated.

Chris · « **Reply #1 on:** October 30, 2005, 12:27:04 PM »

i used tremclad on mine, it worked well covered well and was much cheaper than por 15, I wire brushed, sanded and scraped the whole pan and treated bad areas with a zinc primer and then painted, if I were to do anything else it would be just mediablast and powdercoat.

James Buchan · « **Reply #2 on:** October 30, 2005, 12:49:37 PM »

I used POR15 on my stuff - that shit is TOUGH! One thing I don't like about it is the fact if it is exposed to direct sun it will fade to a flat black in time.

Other than that I was very happy with it - laid smooth with a foam brush - can lasts forever, one coat did it.

ScreamnStroker · « **Reply #3 on:** October 30, 2005, 01:13:39 PM »

I've used POR-15 on my tranny, front end and some other parts.
I agree with James it went on easy with a foam brush and looks smooth.

ehos · « **Reply #4 on:** October 30, 2005, 01:38:43 PM »

Masterseries CT

It's way easier to apply than Por15, is way stronger and won't flake off if you don't prep it properly. In fact, you don't even have to prep the area. Two coats, RIGHT over surface rust and it will last. And it's not effected by UV like Por15.

Por 15 is for well prepped, clean parts IMO and it works well for that. Masterseries is for areas you don't want to have rust again, but don't really feel like prepping/cleaning etc.

Also, it can fill very small pinholes.

I've also tried RustBullet, it's pretty good stuf too. Actually, Por15 comes in last out of the three I've tried.

slammedbus · « **Reply #5 on:** October 30, 2005, 02:19:11 PM »

Sandblast, weld up holes, DP Epoxy primer and Black DCC 9300 Acrylic Urethane is what I have been using. Cheaper than por 15 and IMHO a little better for sealing it up.

Unfortunetly you need all the equipment to do it.

I have also used POR 15 and thought it was a great product for a guy that wants to do the work in his garage. After is dried for a week, I smacked it hard with the side of a 22mm wrench and it did NOT chip.

silas · « **Reply #6 on:** October 30, 2005, 03:06:40 PM »

thanks for the replies.

i wont be blasting. the body will stay on the pan and most of the interior will remain intact. and i'm not worried about the uv rays because this is for the pans inside the car (mostly covered by rubber mats or seats).

wire wheel it, 3m rust inhibitor, and then one of the above mentioned rustbullet, por15, tremclad or master series ct.

what kind of prep work are we talking about so that por15 wont flake off?

chris...did you use rattle can tremclad?

ehos...where can you get masterseries ct?

anyone...where can you get rustbullet or por15?

thanks again y'all.

jim martin · « **Reply #7 on:** October 30, 2005, 05:09:28 PM »

por 15 .
you won't have a problem with fading.
get it at lordco.there is a couple of differant types i will see if i have the part #'s somewhere

Chris · « **Reply #8 on:** October 30, 2005, 05:15:50 PM »

spray can zinc primer, and brush on tremclad, $10 for a can, still have 1/3 left.

like any paint product, the surface needs to be clean and dry otherwise the paint wont adhere...

I have not had any problems with chipping with the tremclad, used 2 coats, and it has worked well, check my site for pics, of the finish with the tremclad.

Bubba · « **Reply #9 on:** October 30, 2005, 07:25:40 PM »

Tremclad is good and reasonably priced. Just make sure that you either remove all the rust, or do a second coat after a full cure (3-4 days) or else rust will bloom after a year or so. I use the stuff on my boat trailer and it works well :mellow:

ehos · « **Reply #10 on:** October 30, 2005, 07:53:54 PM »

I bought my Masterseries from a guy restoring Splits on the samba (he says it's the best stuff he's ever used and he's been fixing cars for over 30 years). I believe him now

Rustbullet is:

Rust Bullet Canada (East)
127 Aldred Drive
Port Perry, ON L9L 1B4

Office: 905-985-8627
Fax: 905-985-2145
E-mail: j.mcmillen@bellnet.ca

And it's WAY better than Por15. They use it commercially (whereas POR15 they don't). And it's been around for a long time.

Sorry, not a fan of Por15. I can show pics of it flaking off on my winter driver

Proper prep involves removing the rust

then using their 'metal ready', then it should be good to go. Properly prepped, it's awesome stuff. Take the lazy way out, and who knows...

kit · « **Reply #11 on:** November 03, 2005, 01:15:48 PM »

first u need to convert the rust, then prep , you will need to seal the metal with a self etching sealer, then you can prime and paint , ppg will be your best bet, two part paint is the way to go, will seal it up nice, por is crap i wouldnt use it , it is like undercoating, if your going to do the job you might as well do it right, if you need someone to spray it let me know i will help you for free, u buy materials, and do the labour, i do rust repair for a living, all the cars i work on are high end cars, and i would never use trem, or ,por

epic3 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2005, 05:24:53 PM »

What about after cleaning using Hippo Liner it's a brush spray or roll on truck bedliner that'll seal and protect it real good and is cheap afriend of mine just did it in the interior of her bronco and loves how durable it is on a 4x4 so it should last forever on a bug that sees none of the abbuse a truck see's

slammedbus · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2005, 05:34:23 PM »

Hippo liner is very hard but very brittle as well. It chips quite easily and doesn't hold up so great over the test of time IMHO. Careful with this one.

biffa · « **Reply #14 on:** February 04, 2006, 12:29:48 AM »

Quote

first u need to convert the rust, then prep , you will need to seal the metal with a self etching sealer, then you can prime and paint , ppg will be your best bet, two part paint is the way to go, will seal it up nice, por is crap i wouldnt use it , it is like undercoating, if your going to do the job you might as well do it right, if you need someone to spray it let me know i will help you for free, u buy materials, and do the labour, i do rust repair for a living, all the cars i work on are high end cars, and i would never use trem, or ,por

ppg?

Chris · « **Reply #15 on:** February 04, 2006, 07:48:35 AM »

Quote

ppg?

paint brand

James Buchan · « **Reply #16 on:** February 04, 2006, 09:29:10 AM »

I've had POR on my undercarriage for 3 years now and it still looks new - Follow the instructions and it will last and look great.

Chris · « **Reply #17 on:** February 04, 2006, 09:32:01 AM »

I used tremclad and it looks great, its some of the best paint you can get for $11 a can!

kirin · « **Reply #18 on:** February 04, 2006, 12:09:50 PM »

General paint marine enamal is tough stuff.
Tremclad according to my general paint friend is like a sponge.

Recently I have been using a lot of Wurth High solids enamal and its been holding up great without a terrible lot of prep.

Chris · « **Reply #19 on:** February 04, 2006, 12:16:43 PM »

Quote

General paint marine enamal is tough stuff.
Tremclad according to my general paint friend is like a sponge.

Recently I have been using a lot of Wurth High solids enamal and its been holding up great without a terrible lot of prep.

the general paint guy says tremclad is a sponge.....

sales tactics at its finest...

kirin · « **Reply #20 on:** February 04, 2006, 12:52:08 PM »

Figured you make a comeback like that in your old age :lol:

I've used both. Both are easy to apply the General paint does seem thicker. The tremclad brushed onto sandblasted metal has held up fine.

I think everything created in todays market will be better then whatever was used on these cars then new. Anythings better then Rubberized undercoat stuff.
YMMV

thrasherbill · « **Reply #21 on:** February 04, 2006, 03:37:50 PM »

Here's the Master Series site CLICK HERE
I've never used it myself but most of the VolksRods members swear by it. It doesn't hurt that Master Series is owned by a VolksRods Member

One member did some side by side testing of most of the products listed in this thread an the Master Series came out on top for ease of application, longevity and chip resistance. I'll see if I can dig up the thread and post a link.

ThrasheR

silas · « **Reply #22 on:** February 04, 2006, 10:26:38 PM »

ftr, i decided to go with tremclad. it was cheap, readily available, and easy to use.

new pan 1/4 in

cleaned the repro paint off, used tremclad grey primer and some seam sealer around the welds

and brushed on some tremclad

it seems to be holding up ok so far. i'll let you all know how it stands after the winter.

thanks again for everyones input.