Author Topic: Engine Troubles. (Read 3388 times)

tanman · « **on:** March 25, 2006, 04:03:27 AM »

hey, i finally got the inspection done on my 67 bug. now when i drive her around, she wont hold a charge at all. if i drive it for awhile and then turn it off, it barely turns over when i try to start it again. also, while im driving, if i slow down to a stop, i'll stall and have to push start it. the lights are always bright and the battery seems to be good and is fairly new... but i guess im not 100%sure about it... anybody have any suggestions? id like to fix this asap.
thanks so much!
tanner

James Buchan · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2006, 07:13:09 AM »

I'll be out in my garage later today (after 1 or so) you can drop by and I can have a look if you like.

312-1787 call my cell if you want to, I am taking my daughter to an audition this morning.

Matt · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2006, 08:14:45 AM »

The hard start may not be a charging problem. You could need a new starter bushing, have a bad ground, or a worn out starter.

tanman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2006, 02:07:10 AM »

its not only starting, it dies as soon as i stop. i dont want to go ahead and start buying parts so do you guys have any ideas?

tanman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 27, 2006, 03:32:06 PM »

the thing is... when i trickle charge the battery for hours, it will start up NO problem at all. i tested the starter and the solonoid, both fine. i know the engine has an alternator in it, but i dont know the condition or how old it is. also i havent done the timing on it. any ideas? also, i just replaced the fuel pump, i think that may have been the reason it was dying... it wasnt really working very well. but now it is. im trying to work through that hippy book but i guess im just not sure where to go next -thanks

Chris · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2006, 03:39:32 PM »

So start it up, then while its running disconnect the positive side of the battery, if it keeps running then the battery is suspect, if it dies then the alternator is not charging.

tanman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2006, 03:41:23 PM »

awesome. sounds like a good test. i'll just have to wait a few hours before i can start it up and try that. thanks a lot 76BUS

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2006, 09:33:54 PM »

Uno momento, disconecting the battery while the engine is running is a way bad idea, try a volt meter first and see if the voltage goes from around 10 or 11 before starting to 13 or 14 after, if not try another regulator or then jump the field cuircuit.

Chris · « **Reply #8 on:** March 27, 2006, 10:15:09 PM »

Ultimately if you suspect the alternator is defective you will need to take it out and take it in for a load test at Edmonds Batteries or wherever you can get a VW alternator tested.

tanman · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2006, 12:46:34 AM »

hm ok. i guess i wont run that test then. i should just take both the battery and the alternator and get them tested? i guess the reason i suspect one or the other is because the damn thing just wont hold a charge, but it runs fine if i trickle charge the battery. do you have any ideas as to what else it could be? all the connections are good.

Chris · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2006, 06:35:52 AM »

I dont know I do that test and it tells me what I want, but you can just take your battery to any battery shop and have them load test it and see if its holding a charge.

AlanU · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2006, 08:09:44 AM »

Quote

So start it up, then while its running disconnect the positive side of the battery, if it keeps running then the battery is suspect, if it dies then the alternator is not charging.

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

Dont EVER EVER do that. The alternator will go into full field and you'll fry your rectifier diodes if you pull the +ve terminal off the battery while its running. In a genny you may damage the voltage regulator!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The charging system is actually a battery \"MAINTAINER\" it was never designed to fully charge a low battery. Its suppose to top up the battery with voltage and current (alt/genny assumes you have a perfect battery)when it reaches a threshold (all designed within the regulator) it will charge the system.

Having a POS battery (which most people do) will make the charging system cycle alot more than it should so this is why it causes more wear and tear on the alt/genny.

If your a chevy owner a crappy batter will screw up that junk delta wound alternator (maybe \"y\" wound) real quick. This is why many of them change the alternator at least 4-6 times in the liftetime of that car (chevy) If you own a honda you may change the alternator after the car hits 200,000+ Km's.

A VAT40 or a minivat from snapon can quickly test your system.

Chris · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2006, 11:41:52 AM »

So apparently you shouldnt do it.

red snapper · « **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2006, 12:03:18 PM »

Quote

So apparently you shouldnt do it.

Is this James?

James Buchan · « **Reply #14 on:** March 28, 2006, 12:48:06 PM »

Bag licker

tanman · « **Reply #15 on:** March 29, 2006, 01:48:37 PM »

where is the voltage regulator, how do i test for that? is it built in to the alternator?

silas · « **Reply #16 on:** March 29, 2006, 06:00:41 PM »

Quote

where is the voltage regulator, how do i test for that? is it built in to the alternator?

afaik, it should be under the back seat beside the battery on a 67. that or it may be attached to the firewall in the engine compartment.

i agree with busdaddy, you should grab a dvom (digital multi meter) to have around. they are handy for quick voltage and resistance tests.

also, check the tension of your alt belt. and are the cells in the battery topped up? check your battery ground and the connection on your alt and make sure they are all tight & secure.

like busdaddy touched on...with your dvom with the key off, battery voltage should be between 12.4 & 12.6. cranking should be 9.4 something. running at 2500rpm should be between 13.8 to 14.5 ish. turn on the lights, wipers, signals, etc to place a load alt and the voltage should remain at around 13.8 to 14.5.

tanman · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2006, 01:04:38 PM »

there is no regulator, it looks like it has been bypassed when the alternator was put in, so im going to assume for now that its one with the regulator built in. the connections seem fine, checked em all again today. now the car wont even start and ive been charging the batt. so im going to go buy one of those things, test the batt. and hope thats all that is wrong- i need to get this thing on the road!

tanman · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2006, 01:47:41 PM »

i tested it with the car off, 12.54 - so now what do i try? the engine is turning over real slow like, and after awhile of trying barely turns over at all. ive checked the starter and the solonoid, fine.

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2006, 03:18:45 PM »

Get the car started somehow and see if it's still at 12.5 or if it's climbing. 12.5 or less = alternator nfg, more than 12.5 = battery or cable issues.
If you jump start it disconnect a jumper cable as soon as it starts (you want to measure your car not the jumper) If not find a willing pusher or two. 12.5 is enough to run the ignition.

dannyboy · « **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2006, 03:56:25 PM »

check your transmission ground, and battery ground cable aswell.
another thing to check is while the car is out of gear (MAKE SURE OF IT) cross the connections on the starter and see if it still turns slow. if the battery is good, all the grounds are good, i would look at the starter or the starter bushing. if it turns over faster, then you may need to look at the wiring between you ignition switch and the starter. ive bench tested starters that seem great, but as soon as you put them in cars they dont work worth a damn....

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #21 on:** March 31, 2006, 04:27:10 PM »

Have you tried borrowing a battery from something else and seeing if it does the same thing?

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #22 on:** March 31, 2006, 04:28:56 PM »

Have you tried borrowing a battery from something else and seeing if it does the same thing? NOT a Motomaster battery though.

tanman · « **Reply #23 on:** March 31, 2006, 05:03:34 PM »

i did borrow another working battery and checked, same thing happened. so i guess i'll start doing all of those other things this weekend, its gonna be a long weekend with work in the way! if anyone has afternoon/evenings off and would love to teach a young new VW lover that knows nothing, id pay them.
tanner

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #24 on:** March 31, 2006, 08:15:17 PM »

Same thing happened as in even with the new battery it wouldn't start and cranked really slow or started fine but cranked slower and slower as the day went on?

Russ · « **Reply #25 on:** March 31, 2006, 08:34:40 PM »

what is the timing set at? sometimes when the timming is out of what it will be hard to start

Stevie · « **Reply #26 on:** April 01, 2006, 05:49:29 PM »

umm well another thing that no one mentioned,

is your alternator light in your speedo burnt out? cause if it dosn't work then the battery won't charge, i don't know why the books just say so

dannyboy · « **Reply #27 on:** April 01, 2006, 11:30:01 PM »

the alt light feeds the alternator a current which energizes the field to charge the bat, so if there is no current, or the incorrect current the alt wont charge.

Quote

i don't know why the books just say so

Custom76Bus · « **Reply #28 on:** April 02, 2006, 01:25:33 AM »

I don't know how many car's I've bought or worked on.... only to encounter some starting issues, and the almost always are the ground connections.... make sure as everyone else has said that your grounds are clean and good.

Good luck otherwise.

tanman · « **Reply #29 on:** April 02, 2006, 04:54:09 PM »

alright. i havent had time this weekend because ive been so busy with work, but i'll re-clean all the connections, replace the alt light (it IS burnt out) and mess around with whatever else. im also not sure if the carb is sucking in any fuel... there could be a few problems here. also, i havent timed it yet since i got it... so it could be WAY off. thats something i want to get to this week too

Author Topic: Engine Troubles. (Read 3388 times)

Matt

Russ