start with the mixture screws at 3 1/2 turns out .then with a timing light with a rpm out put turn 1 screw in at a time and watch as soon as the rpm drops and note how much the screw was turned in , then put it back to 3 1/2 turns and do the same on all the other cylinders.then set all screws to the avg off all 4 plus 1/4 turn out that should give you a good idle co and driving co.
I disagree with that method.
If you turn the screw in and find the point just before the rpms drop for an individual cylinder, that is the A/F ratio for that cyl that you want. By averaging the 4 out, you will have some cyls that are a tiny bit rich, and others that are a tiny bit lean. That will give you more variation at Aircare than if you have them all at their own sweet spots. I see no valid reason to have all the screws at the same number of turns from seated. I would expect all the screws to be slightly different due to variations in machining of the mixture screw's tapered tip, and the seat for it. Also, no two cylinders are going to flow exactly the same amount of air at idle, therefore the ideal mixture screw location will be slightly different for each cyl.
My recommendation is to set them all to a baseline (3 1/2 turns is ok), and turn one screw in until the rpms start to drop by 30-50 RPM. Then back it out the smallest amount until that cyl just starts to fire again. Repeat for the other 3 cyls. Then re-adjust your idle speed and go around to all 4 mixture screws again. Keep going around until you determine that they are all at their sweet spot. Then you are done.
The Aircare readings show your idle jet is massive. Since it says 60, I suspect it has been drilled. I bet it has been drilled to 70. If it has, a 65 will probably work for you. If it was drilled to 65, use a 60. About 10 years ago when Darren was running 48 DRLAs, he would drive around with 65s, then pop in 60s to pass the test.
The Aircare readings also show your mixture screws are set way too rich.
The idle CO reading at Aircare tells you how well your mixture screws are set.
The dyno CO readings at Aircare tell you how big your idle jet is.
The HC readings are a measure of what your engine is doing with the A/F ratio being delivered to it.
Since your HC numbers are good, you will have no problems eventually getting your car to pass. You will also notice that it will run better to boot.
Stock fuel pumps don't need fuel pressure regulators. You need to check the pressure, then adjust it accordingly. Adjust by shimming the pump away from the pump mount with extra gaskets. Ending up with 3-4 gaskets is not uncommon with aftermarket pumps. I have seen stock pumps squirting out 7-8 psi. Get the pressure down below 3psi. A stock pump at 2 psi can deliver enough fuel to push a stock weight Beetle into the 12s.
In your second post, you mentioned that you turn the screws by
