Drop Spindles or Adjusters?

[Der Bugmeister]

I've got a '57 Bug, currently running dual adjusters in the stock width kingpin beam to bring my front end down.  I'm running 195/50 x 15's now, and plan to stay with that tire size when I switch to 5.5" Empi-style 5-spokes from my current 5.5" chromies.  I'm not into the tiny tires tucked way out of sight up front.

The rear end is at stock height.  Front brakes are stock '57 and I have shims installed to correct the geometry.  Overall I've been happy with how the car handles.

Not yet built is a 2010cc engine, so the car won't be a slowpoke.

I've been planning to switch to a narrowed beam (2" or 4", not sure yet) with dropped spindles and a disk brake setup along with those 5 spokes, but someone mentioned that there might be issues using the dropped spindles on a fast car.  This was the first I've heard of this, and I'm hoping someone might be able to shed some light on it.

I understand the advantages for handling/steering geometry offered by the spindles versus the adjusters.  Thanks for any insight or suggestions on why one would be better than the other for my application.

[number3]

Welcome aboard.

I would suggest that the majority of beetles running a disc brake set in the front are running a dropped spindle with it.  I think the combination has been around long enough that the any kinks have been worked out and you should not have problems running them with your 2010cc engine.   Depending how narrowed of a beam you run can impact your handling in a negative way. 

I would also suggest that even with dropped spindles you might still want to consider using adjusters as well.   If you're fabbing your own narrowed beam from I'd put a set in.  If you're buying a prefab 2" narrowed beam the one's we sell come with the avis type adjusters already installed.   With the adjusters in it just gives you more options regarding your final ride height.

Rob 

[Chris]

I run adjusters and dropped spindles on a 2" narrowed beam and it runs straight and true in the 1/4 mile at 100+ mph.

Get your alignment done, make sure you double check your assembly and that all is tight and you should be fine!

[jim martin]

http://www.airspeedparts.com/forums/index.php?topic=1953.msg12133#msg12133
good info here ,sorry will need to fix images .

the big thing everone forgets is when the rear of the car stays level or is slightly raised with bigger tires and we drop the frt the frt end goes to negative caster ( very bad) if i remember on my car and this is aprox for others with dropped frt end and 135-145 frt tires .1 set of shims gets you back to stock , 2 shims is great , 3 shims for up to 90-100 mph and 4 shims for getting serious.

[Bruce]

I normally use dropped spindles on my car.  With the dropped spindles, I have the beam cranked all the way up. 

When I go to Mexico, I change to stock height spindles to gain ground clearance due to the heavier load up front (tools, spare parts, etc).  The front beam is adjusted down until the load is increased, then it is adjusted up to compensate as the "etc" increases.

This means I have plenty of miles under each condition.  With only 1 set of 1/8" caster wedges, I see no instability whatsoever at speeds over a ton.  However, my car is also IRS, so it has a huge advantage over swing axle.

Go ahead and use the dropped spindles, they won't hurt high speed stability.  I also recommend you do a few things to the rear.  Lower it just a small amount to give yourself some negative camber.  Then use a Camber compensator to prevent the dreaded swing axle wheel tuck.

Shocks are very important too.  For the rear, you want the stiffest shock you can find.  However, the front being so light, you have to be careful how stiff you go there.  Check the Samba, I think I saw an ad the other day where a guy was selling a set of 4 Konis to fit K&L/swing axle for a reasonable price.