Author Topic: Aircare Qvestion (Read 2623 times)

G-dog · « **on:** June 05, 2007, 02:04:45 PM »

What's the verdict on Methyl Hydrate? Does anyone add it to help get their numbers down?If so ,what ratio should you use?Or should I just drink the stuff?What mixer goes best with it Ginger ale or OJ

Chris · « **Reply #1 on:** June 05, 2007, 03:27:59 PM »

Mix with oatmeal and smear all over your nipples.

BTW what day is good for you to setup your lm-1 gear?

G-dog · « **Reply #2 on:** June 05, 2007, 05:13:43 PM »

Won't my new piercings get infected?

Chris · « **Reply #3 on:** June 05, 2007, 05:15:59 PM »

coat your piercing with gobs of old vaseline, that should keep you safe.

Matt · « **Reply #4 on:** June 05, 2007, 05:30:50 PM »

I've never used it in an ACVW, but I have in my old honda that used more oil than gas and the shit made that car pass. Full tank of regular to a litre of Methyl Hydrate. I've also heard that Isopropynol (sp?)/ rubbing alchohol does the same if not better but I have no experience with it.

G-dog · « **Reply #5 on:** June 05, 2007, 06:35:04 PM »

Thanx Matt,however I Will be drinking all my rubbing alcohol on the way to the Aircare Stn.I really don't know why I am worrying ,cos no matter what I do the super lumpy bumpstick in the motor is not helping matters!

G-dog · « **Reply #6 on:** June 05, 2007, 10:11:09 PM »

Aside from all the joking ,I am serious about the question .Any other opinions?

jim martin · « **Reply #7 on:** June 05, 2007, 10:45:30 PM »

there are no voodoo tricks needed...
have you taken your car through yet?, if so post some info.
if you haven't why would you assume you will fail?

i have said it before,
if your stroker motor is in solid mechanical condition and a/f ratio's are set correctly it will pass no problem and with results better than most stock motors.
if you have the lm1 and don't want to hard wire it into the car it is even easier to temp wire in and set your a/f ratios will driving.

if you go the lm1 no guessing route i will guide you how to use it to set your loaded and idle a/f ratios

silas · « **Reply #8 on:** June 05, 2007, 10:46:45 PM »

Quote

Aside from all the joking ,I am serious about the question .Any other opinions?

i used to use methyl hydrate in my old 73 whenit was aircare time. as to whether it made a difference, i'm not sure....but the car always passed.

when i went through aircare last december with my 64, i put a bottle of wynns fuel additive in a fresh 1/2 tank gas.

have you been through allready? if so, where did it fail?

silas · « **Reply #9 on:** June 05, 2007, 10:59:43 PM »

Quote

there are no voodoo tricks needed...

if your stroker motor is in solid mechanical condition and a/f ratio's are set correctly it will pass no problem and with results better than most stock motors....

well said.

G-dog · « **Reply #10 on:** June 06, 2007, 08:11:38 AM »

No , haven't tried yet.My Lma-3 /XD-16 /Auxbox kit is screwy ,seems like the O2 sensor is not working,and the auxbox is not communicating with the other components .VWChris is going to come and help get the parts talking to each other properly,so until then,I can't even make an attempt at fine tuning.

AlanU · « **Reply #11 on:** June 06, 2007, 10:48:53 AM »

Methyl hydrate is a shitty water/moisture remover. Rubbing alchohol turns water and gas into 1 solution so it will remove all water content in the tank. I have a product from BG and its used in alot of dealerships. 2 part system of \"cleaner\" and \"dryer\". I'd rather use a 3500 dollar motorvac machine i have personally to clean a fuel system.

I think urine is just as effective as \"fix it in a can\" products.

tune, tune, tune.

Our ACVW's are finicky. How many times will you find your idle will change out of the blue due to engine expansion and other variables. I see this all the time in dual carb setups. IDA's are primitive beasts that have caveman idle/main transition ccts.

On my gas analyser I've seen readings change just by sitting in the same spot in a matter of 3 minutes. This is with absolutely no leaks on the intake and completely clean fuel system.

The problem with aircare is you can have 2 completely different readings on a modern day fuel injected system. Older non catalytic cars with carbs are even worst.

Odd how my 65 is no lower than lanny's 67 yet when he takes his car to the aircare center he doesn't have to go on the dyno.

G-dog · « **Reply #12 on:** June 06, 2007, 11:39:27 AM »

It just shows how shitty and arbitrary the whole system is.

silas · « **Reply #13 on:** June 06, 2007, 06:32:17 PM »

Quote

Methyl hydrate is a shitty water/moisture remover. Rubbing alchohol turns water and gas into 1 solution so it will remove all water content in the tank. I have a product from BG and its used in alot of dealerships. 2 part system of \"cleaner\" and \"dryer\". I'd rather use a 3500 dollar motorvac machine i have personally to clean a fuel system.

I think urine is just as effective as \"fix it in a can\" products.

tune, tune, tune.

Our ACVW's are finicky. How many times will you find your idle will change out of the blue due to engine expansion and other variables. I see this all the time in dual carb setups. IDA's are primitive beasts that have caveman idle/main transition ccts.

On my gas analyser I've seen readings change just by sitting in the same spot in a matter of 3 minutes. This is with absolutely no leaks on the intake and completely clean fuel system.

The problem with aircare is you can have 2 completely different readings on a modern day fuel injected system. Older non catalytic cars with carbs are even worst.

Odd how my 65 is no lower than lanny's 67 yet when he takes his car to the aircare center he doesn't have to go on the dyno.

good info alan.

i was always skeptical about those bottled additives. jim & i actually had a good conversation about them one night and pretty much came to the conclusion that they dont help. in school we also had a big debate about them as a group of classmates thought they (the additives) were the cats arse.

i figured i'd toss a bottle in before aircare because 1- it was free from work and 2- i had nothing to lose.

G-dog · « **Reply #14 on:** June 06, 2007, 06:44:27 PM »

Alan & Jim are right,I'm sure.Better to toss back a couple of beers than waste $$$ on chemicals.It was just an idea.Thanx boyz

Bruce · « **Reply #15 on:** June 07, 2007, 10:30:33 AM »

Mythyl Hydrate and other alcohols are oxygen bearing fuels. That means they have free oxygen disolved in them. Gas does not. By adding MH, you are also adding extra oxygen. Since most people tune their cars too RICH, adding oxygen leans them out to the point where many will pass Aircare. That is why it works in some cars.

I say set your A/F ratio correct in the first place and you don't need any snake oil. I never use the crap.

Cameron · « **Reply #16 on:** June 07, 2007, 01:28:53 PM »

Gary,

Here's my two cents of advice. Just get the O2 / LM1 system working, and tune your car. Add all the other Innovate pieces later. With IDAs, you will only be tuning the idle circuit to get through AirCare.

egspot · « **Reply #17 on:** June 07, 2007, 03:01:49 PM »

Quote

Gary,

Just get the O2 / LM1 system working, and tune your car.

I just have to ask the stupid question others won't.

Where do one gets one of those?
What do they normally cost?
How hard is it to instal one?

G-dog · « **Reply #18 on:** June 07, 2007, 03:14:07 PM »

1-Mopac
2-$400 & up depending on what kit you buy
3-Not hard-except for the computery bit if you're a computer dolt like me
Chris is coming by tonight to help me sort out why the setup just stopped working!

G-dog · « **Reply #19 on:** June 07, 2007, 11:13:38 PM »

Thanx to Chris for coming over to help get my electronical computery thingy going-except the GD LC-1 is pooched ,so I gotta take it back for replacement/repair.I ran it for less than 15 min and poof!Dead!So a little more waiting for this aircare thingy....

ghiaholic · « **Reply #20 on:** June 09, 2007, 02:51:26 PM »

Wahoo - just got 2 acvw's through the Langley AirCare this morning. Both passed on their first tour through. Bone stock 1600dp passed with flying colours as expected.

On the other hand the 1776 with 34pict, unknown but likely non-stock cam and 009 just sqeaked through. Some tricks that worked for me (YMMV) with this motor are to retard the timing by a couple of degrees (runs a bit warmer), run oxygenated gas (chevron if I can find it), bump the idle up to around 1200rpm using the cam screw, not the volume screw, to get the motor some extra air at idle in addition to the idle circuit. Also, if you're running a 009 make sure that you measure 30 degrees full advance, or whatever you like to run, from the TDC mark on the pully, NOT the advance grooves. It may make passing aircare harder if you're timing is way advanced. The TDC mark on my motor is the divot on the half of the pulley closest to you, not the v-groves on the half of the pulley closest to the case. With an adjustable timing light, it can then be accurately set or if you have a non-adjustable timing light you can mark your pulley at your desired advance by measuring from the TDC divot. If you're not sure which mark is TDC on your pulley, check it through the spark plug hole.

HTH