Author Topic: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build  (Read 147294 times)

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Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #60 on: December 27, 2011, 04:19:46 PM »
is that a ford relay i spy? forshame dave!  the more i watch this thread the more i think you're setting a new standard for a quality build! this things awesome!

haha, yeah it is a Ford Relay. The ford relay is SPST (single pole, single throw) as opposed to the SPDT (single pole, double throw) relay that is normally sold as an "Automotive Relay".

With a SPDT relay (the usual Automotive Relay), when the circuit is switched the relayed power is live on two outlet tabs. This allows you to use one relay to switch on both high beam bulbs, for instance. The SPST relay, on the other hand, has one outlet tab live normally, and when the switch is applied the output moves to the other tab. So in my case, I'm using this for the Rally computer. Normally the rally computer will be powered by an ignition controlled source. Thus, when I turn the car on or off the rally computer will turn on or off as well. In a rally event, however, this isn't ideal. While fueling, or if the navigator causes the driver to stall the car, you want the rally computer to stay on regardless. Thus I have the ford relay setup so I can move to "battery power" for the duration of a rally event.

In a more "normal" Volkswagen application, I might use the SPST relay to control two electric fuel pumps. Normally pump one would always have power, but if it were to fail moving a switch on the dash to "pump two" would move the output to a second fuel pump. It's extremely rare for a relay to fail, so in a street car this would be a reasonable setup. Since this is a race car though, I'm building it for full redundancy :)

Thanks for the props on the build...it's been moving so slow this week I'm feeling like I have to drag myself into the garage to start.

-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #61 on: January 01, 2012, 11:38:00 PM »
Well, it's been a long week of work...but none of it on the Beetle. Whistler over Christmas break isn't exactly "time off" for any of us who work there. More like "All hands on deck"! At work we have a Hagglunds BV-206 (google it) which has been taking up a lot of my time. Ford engine, Mercedes transmission, BMW distributor, Audi plug wires....it's a virtual United Nations of construction. Anyways...I'm off topic, and finally got back to the Bug today.



...I managed to snake the wiring harness through the factory holes in the heater channels. It wasn't easy, but I got it through. My seat rail is jammed up against the heater channel, which means running even a factory harness down beside it would be almost impossible. I might cut the seat rail, lay the wires and re weld it back in...or I might route the wires under the seat and simply cut some access for it. Haven't decided yet.



From there I moved onto the fuel tank. In order to make sure all the dash and trunk bits are going to fit, I need to get the fuel tank into the car...which means refinishing it. In order to refinish it, the first step was to sort out the fuel sender. The aftermarket senders are a wee bit different then the Super Beetle versions:



So I started slowly stripping down the VW unit, as I compared it to the Stewart Warner unit I'm going to be using....



...and, after a little while, I had this:

 

The factory Super Beetle gauge has two floats, which after playing around I figured our are required to get a proper reading at both full and empty. Trying to sort out a way to make it all work with the aftermarket gauge was going to be relatively futile. Or at least, far more engineering then a fuel gauge should require! With my short float I should show "empty" well before the tank is actually dry....so it's somewhat reflective of a reserve left, but it does have a very accurate "full" reading. That may come across as backwards...but really I could run without a gauge at all, simply knowing how many miles between full and empty. This adds a bit of security :P

With that finished, I prepped the top half of the tank, and took care of the finish. Tomorrow I'll paint the bottom half.



I've also moved onto the dash. With Carbon Joe AWOL, I've had to go onto plan B. I'll be using a factory looking dash, and giving it the "Audi Factory Team" look. Cut some panels for around the speedo hole, and a lexan panel which fits into the radio trim. Ideally I'd like to fit the Rally computer on the far side of the glove box, but I'm going to have to wait until install the dash to check clearances.



Until tomorrow...

-Dave

--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline Chris

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #62 on: January 02, 2012, 12:29:03 PM »
I ran my wiring through the window post and the roof channel, goes right into the engine compartment (well it did on my 61, cant say for sure on your car)

Make sure you grommet those holes!

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #63 on: January 02, 2012, 09:44:38 PM »
I can't remember what year they changed the wiring route, but early cars go above the doors, later cars (at least '69+) follow the heater channel. If I tried to run mine on the early route, I'd run out of length somewhere around the rear 1/4 window ;)

And...don't worry, there will be grommets and/or cable holds to ensure it doesn't move and rub through. None from the factory though!



Well, the bottom of the tank is coated...so in a day or two I'll be able to install that and move some bigger things forward. But for now, it feels like slow detail work. I am getting things done, but not the massive steps forward I was enjoying before! :P

First up is the new "radio panel". It will house various switches and the oil temperature gauge. (Fuel gauge installed just for sizing). The switches across the top will select stock high beams, rally light 1 and/or rally light two when you hit the factory high beam switch. I can run any combination of auxillary lighting, but they're all ultimately dipped just like your factory high-low system. The bottom three toggles are for fuel pump 1/2, Air/Fuel Ratio left back or right (sensor selector for the gauge) and rally computer power source. The long switch next to the gauge is a rotary switch, I just haven't trimmed down the post or installed the knob. This will serve to control which sensor is displaying on the oil temperature gauge. I plan on having multiple sensors so I can see oil temp just as it leaves the engine, as it goes into the engine and also in oil tank. The rotary knob allows me to have up to four different sensor locations, but only one gauge.



I've cut a spot for the speedometer, and four more smaller gauges (two beside the tach and two in the glove box door). Some paint finishes up the panels. The car will end up with a Speedo, Tach, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Air/Fuel Ratio, voltmeter and a Fuel Gauge. Where I'll mount each gauge specifically...hasn't yet been determined. Well, except for the oil pressure gauge. That will go where both co-driver and driver can see it.



The new gauges will all be the current Stewart Warner Performance style, which you can see new in the boxes on the left-side. Due to the factory dash setup, I've chosen to keep the Porsche Tach...but that black rim just wouldn't do, would it? Enter new silver bezel. When I first painted it, I instantly hated it. Almost taped it up to paint it black right away. Once I had it installed on the dash though, it was an instant success. Oh yeah, I got the dashboard mounted as well. Should be installed for the final time.



Doesn't seem like much accomplished, considering the time it took!

-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #64 on: January 04, 2012, 12:26:55 AM »
Build is going super slow the last three weeks...but house sitting, dog sitting, Christmas and having to drive over to the shop will do that! I should be back to my usual program, and low sleep hours, come friday. Tonight I could only get an hour in on the car. In that time I managed to install the switch and gauge panels, including putting the random gauges I have into various spots to check the fit. Had to make a couple of more adjustments to the metal dash, but otherwise everything is a good fit. Should have all my new-style Stewart Warner gauges by the end of the month...but visually, it's not looking too bad now. At the very least I can sort out the wiring for each of the panels and then swap out the gauges later.





-Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline Geoff

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #65 on: January 04, 2012, 12:51:15 PM »
Very nice work! You young guys sure can work fast.

Offline buggy1

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #66 on: January 04, 2012, 08:57:58 PM »
Yeah I can't pull the night shifts anymore I need all the beauty sleep that I can get!
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Offline Geoff

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #67 on: January 04, 2012, 10:09:53 PM »
That dash is fast!!! It's going 65 standing still!

Offline Randy

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #68 on: January 05, 2012, 01:15:58 AM »
Awesome progress for sure!
Found this on thesamba.com

Offline Jord63

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #69 on: January 05, 2012, 12:14:26 PM »
Man, cant fall behind on this thread. Spent my entire lunch break catching up on your car Dave. I love the novel you are writing on it. Car is looking great. Keep up the good work.

Offline Randy

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #70 on: January 05, 2012, 09:38:53 PM »
Came across this blog about the salzburg rally beetle today:

http://thesalzburgrallyebeetle.blogspot.com/


enjoy

Offline 70's Looker

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #71 on: January 05, 2012, 10:40:06 PM »
Came across this blog about the salzburg rally beetle today:

http://thesalzburgrallyebeetle.blogspot.com/


enjoy

are those 46idas?
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Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #72 on: January 05, 2012, 10:41:15 PM »
The author of that blog, Joao, and I have exchanged plenty of emails he's actually the one who sold me the magazines. Unfortunately he's decided not to build his replica.

As for the carbs...theyre off a Porsche 904. Geoff would know the exact carb.

-Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline Geoff

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #73 on: January 06, 2012, 08:59:57 AM »
Looks like even from new those damn valve covers leaked. That case reminds me of a economy rebore job, sprayed gold.

Offline Bruce

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #74 on: January 07, 2012, 12:31:53 AM »
Strange that they said they used 46 IDAs, when that carb is a later 48 IDA.

Offline Bruce

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #75 on: January 07, 2012, 12:41:30 AM »
More inconsistencies.  The text and title for this pic says it is a 914 5 speed.
One can clearly count only 4 gears.  That's because it's not a 914, but a Beetle Type 1.  The diff is Type 1 too.

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #76 on: January 08, 2012, 12:47:02 AM »
More inconsistencies.  The text and title for this pic says it is a 914 5 speed.
One can clearly count only 4 gears.  That's because it's not a 914, but a Beetle Type 1.  The diff is Type 1 too.

True. Yet photos of the completed cars clearly show a 901 box installed in the car.

-------
A few posts back, when I first bolted up the steering column, I mentioned how it was the first "used" looking piece I was using on the car...but budgets have to be adhered to (at least, once you've spent 4x as much as you planned!). A guy of the Germanlook Forum sent me a PM, and shortly after a package, at no cost, for the project:



Guess I won't be using a used ugly turn signal lever after all!

Thanks Germanlook Chris!

------------------

Started on wiring up the dash today...it's incredible how long it takes to do it correctly. Managed to wire up the fuel gauge, air-fuel gauge, rally computer, speedometer and the radio panel of switches. Yes, that was almost a full-day's work.

Glove Box started:


Detail of the Anderson Power-Pole connectors I prefer for inside use. They can be assembled like Lego, and labelled with a micro-sharpie. I only need to label them for while I assembling each half (usually on different days). Once I key the connectors so they can't be assembled incorrectly, panels can be installed and removed without ever messing up the wiring.


Glove box gauge details:


From the normal view, all of the wires are tucked away neatly and hidden. Hard to see in the second photo, but the stock glovebox fits perfectly. I've lost a bit of interior space, of course, but can at least use it for holding the insurance papers and other vitals.


The underside looks odd in the photo, but actually looks clean and neat in person. The connectors under the dash are for the rally computer. It needs to be removable for use in other vehicles and/or if I park it somewhere that it could be an issue.


Under the hood remains clean as well. The black wiring harness is for the rally computer, the connectors peeking out are for the gauges. Again, everything is modular and removable should repairs or future modifications require it.


And here is the panel that sits in the radio slot. As you can see making it removable requires a bit of time ;-)


-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline josh

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #77 on: January 08, 2012, 12:43:59 PM »
Nice work man!! this stuff is very time consuming to do   Woot_Emoticon
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Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #78 on: January 09, 2012, 11:49:26 PM »
Thanks! Occasionally I just want to "get it done"...but I know taking my time will make it so much easier to diagnose down the road. Considering the fact that I'm doing all the wiring without the battery or any testing, I'm either really really good...or insane :P

No photos tonight, as it's just more wires and connections. I've got the switch panel in the radio slot wired up to the relays in the trunk, speedo and tach 100% wired in at the dash (just the speed sensor to mount) and most of the modular panels powered and grounded. After that I started going through and labeling wires to make tomorrow night faster. With the techflex having to go over each wire, it wasn't realistic to label them as I built the harness. What I did do, though, was to bundle the wires by end location. Now when I'm trying to figure out "where does that wire go", as soon as I find that one wire in a cluster goes to the regulator (for instance) all five in that cluster go to the regulator. This cuts down the hunt-and-find factor, but considering there were 15 wires going to the relay panel...it doesn't necessarily make it quick!

I hope to get the rest of "my" wiring finished tomorrow, so that I can start installing the factory switches and their associated wires. There is going to be a LOT to stuff in behind there, and I'm not 100% sure it will all easily fit.

-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #79 on: January 11, 2012, 12:11:45 AM »
Holy crap I'm reaching the end!!

All of my switches and gauges are wired and hooked up. Started installing the factory equipment tonight, which is a nice milestone to reach. A little confused by some of it, as the wiring connections I have in the car don't match the '71 wiring diagram...will be a bit of a puzzle I think! Warwick was in the garage working on the Mini tonight...apparently I talk to myself with a running monologue of wiring diagrams and connections as I work. Never noticed it before, but definitely do it when I'm wiring. Odd.

Photos tomorrow, added my LED Gen and Oil lights, but screwed up the location. You RHD guys would be fine with them where they are, but for us LHD folks a switch blocks the warning lights. Hmmm...might have to install a couple more just to be safe.

-Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #80 on: January 12, 2012, 12:44:02 AM »


Now, keeping in mind that this is still a work in progress, I have wires not yet trimmed or hooked up in this photo...but still I think if you've owned enough beetles, you just accept that there is no way the behind-the-dash wiring won't look like a rats nest :P  Add a bazillion other wires and I think I'm going to have a very hard time making this look "neat". Even with zipties and/or wiring loom, I will definitely need to work out a wiring cover of some sort.


Got the headlight switch, emergency flasher switch and gas heater switch all in. Gas heater will need a few more connections, in the '69 I just ran my own wiring...for this car I'm going to want to figure out how the factory did it. I must have spent 45min going through boxes and baggies searching for the "good" dash switches with their perfect labels and diagrams. 45min, that was, until I remembered that those pieces are still installed on the '69, and it was sold!

I have discovered a few issues with the factory wiring. Each of the cars I've torn apart to build this one were all '71's. At some point in the last five years I must have dismantled a '72. Bits from that car must have been in my wiring box, because they've found their way into this car. The fuse box, for instance, is a '72. Took me forever to realize this, and thus instantly solve why one circuit had no "feed" power. A '71 box bridges the first three terminals, in '72 they bridge just the first two. Doh. Wiring, it would seem, is also a mix of '71 and '72...which is bound to create a headache down the road. Especially since I've hooked up everything as though it were '71, until I discovered a few things were '72 and "wouldn't work". They are small changes, like wires that join together at the fuse box instead of a junction in the harness...but just different enough to drive me bat-shit-crazy when I have an issue down the road!

Does anyone know what the Brown/Blue wire coming out of the steering column is for?  It's on neither the '71 or '72 wiring diagram, and I can't for the life of me figure out what it might be for.

The last issue is one I mentioned the other night. With the 914 Tach and an aftermarket speedo, I've lost my factory warning lights. I wanted them somewhere visible, preferably not behind the steering wheel. I got the bright idea to get bright LED's and tuck them in with the brake-light warning switch. If done right it would be kind of factory-esque, with all the warning lights in the same spot. Initially I was going to remove the brake-light warning lamp all together (pretty sure I can tell when I have lost half my brakes!!) but didn't end up removing it for some reason. I drilled out the car and popped two high-intensity LED's into the panel. Tough to take a photo of them and show the intensity, but here is the location:



Now, I did this entire install from the passenger side of the car. Silly me, I never thought to check if they'd be visible from the Driver's seat. :P I will have to wait until I have a seat in the car again, maybe I get lucky, but I somehow doubt it. Pretty sure the lower LED is blocked by the fan switch!

To finish the dash wiring I need my wiper install kit (grommets, etc) and a windshield squirter. I'm off coaching for the weekend, so likely won't update the thread until Monday night.

-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #81 on: January 12, 2012, 12:56:44 AM »
Quote
Does anyone know what the Brown/Blue wire coming out of the steering column is for? It's on neither the '71 or '72 wiring diagram, and I can't for the life of me figure out what it might be for.

Surf First. Post after. This would be unused on a T1...mental note, bring iPad down to garage when wiring.

-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #82 on: January 16, 2012, 11:33:59 PM »
Back to the bug tonight, after a weekend away. The new headliner is spread out across my living and dining room, so hopefully it will start smoothing out a little. In the meantime, it was down to the very cold garage for a little bit of work. Much of what I accomplished is the sort of thing you don't really see, but there's a few bits...

First off, the windshield washer jet, wiper motor/linkage and wiper switch are all installed and hooked up.


Next up was the fuel tank. Too bad you can't see all the work that went on before the tank went in! The gas heater fuel hoses needed to be run, as well as the gas heater pump electrics. Since I was running the wires for the pump, I took the time to finish up all the connections on the fusebox side for the heater. You'll just need to trust me that everything under the fuel tank is as detailed as above the tank. All the lines and wires are secured using mounts and zip ties...good and safe, but it will mean I have to remove the tank when I swap the gas lines in two years. (Safety item...all soft lines are replaced every two years minimum)

Once that was done, I laid some foam-tape around the edges of the fuel tank mount, and dropped it in. Tomorrow I will secure the pump, as I decided both the tank and gas heater mounts needed a fresh coat of paint. Also visible in this photo is the passenger side defrost and heat ducting. I remember the duct being a complete PIA to pull out of the car, and I've read more then a few posts on The Samba saying how difficult they are to get in. Honestly, I don't know what all the fuss was about. It was dirt simple! Pull the dash vent out, slide the duct into place, put the dash vent back in which secures both. Took me 30 seconds, and I was expecting 30min! I will need to figure out where I hid the driver's side piece though...as it's apparently not in my garage.


I haven't decided if the trunk will get carpeting or not...so I had to make sure the fuel gauge wires looked good...just in case ;-)


And the last thing I got to was the fuel door release handle. The one on the car was broken (and painted silver) but taking them apart isn't a simple job! They don't like to separate from the cable without something breaking. I broke one cable, one handle and one retaining clip...so it took 3 assemblies in total to create one good part. But its installed, so I'm happy.


Time to move onto some different jobs, I think I'll need to wait until the rest of my Gauges arrive in order to finish the dashboard. No sense in mounting stuff I'll just need to remove to swap a gauge in.

-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #83 on: January 19, 2012, 01:05:46 AM »
The last couple of days haven't been as productive as I had hoped they would be. A combination of really cold temperatures and other jobs meant less time in the garage then I had hoped. I did manage to finish all the stock dash switches, which turned out to be more challenging then I expected. Note to self, next time I stuff a bazillion wires in behind the dash...put the fresh-air knobs in FIRST


Then, following that I figured I better test to see if the gas-heater would actually fit the car. This is the first time I've had a chance to see it was even remotely close! Thank goodness it appears that everything is going to work just fine.


...and I started on the fuel pump plumbing. Unfortunately one of the T-fittings didn't come in, and I mucked one of the straight hose ends. No worries, the shop will have replacements in tomorrow and I can finish this up. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to make those tiny short fuel lines! I thought -8 lines were fun to make, but the smaller -4 lines are a real chore. I'm not 100% the configuration I've chosen will work (since only one pump will be powered at a time)...worst case I'll need to put a one-way valve in-line.



On the bad news front, I'm having a really tough time sorting out how I'm going to deal with running the wiring harness beside/under/around the driver's seat. When I got frustrated with that I moved on to the rear portion, and quickly determined that I'm either a) going to need to buy a harness or b) build one from scratch. The engine & taillight portion of my harness is just brutal. I've got a few days off the bug planned due to work commitments, so hopefully I can come back on Saturday with a fresh perspective and attitude!

-Dave
« Last Edit: January 19, 2012, 01:10:21 AM by owdlvr »
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Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #84 on: January 21, 2012, 11:50:48 PM »
Well the fuel pumps ended up being an interesting challenge. Turns out when I ran the fuel line for the gas heater, I pinched it under the fuel tank. Had to remove the tank and everything in the way to fix the problem. I'm fairly glad I found it now though, otherwise I'd have been really confused as to why the gas heater wasn't working! Once the problem was fixed, I went on to finish the pump and line mounting...

Pumps for the engine are in...


And so is the gas heater pump. Apparently camouflaged after I painted it black :P


With that done, I figured I better mount the gas heater for real, and see if I was going to have any other issues. Pretty glad that I did. Needless to say, the exhaust pipe wasn't going to work out in it's current configuration.


After a bit of fettling with the mounts, the exhaust pipe and ducting, I managed to get it in with everything looking "factory".


The heat shield, though, required some trimming. I may have trimmed off a bit too much, but I have 3 or 4 of them and was wanting to ensure I had left space for straps, etc. I'll leave it for a day or two to make sure I'm happy with it, and then refinish it so it looks new again. On the exhaust pipe, I will need to make the "foot" piece that goes into the end. Unlike my last car, though, I'm going to make this one when the car is on the ground with a tire on it. Maybe it won't rub on attempt number two :D


With much of the trunk finished I started to think about the wiring harness again. Must be the new heater I bought for the garage, but suddenly things started to make sense and fall together. First up, I determined a routing for the main harness that would keep it off the floor (out of the wet), and away from the seat track rubbing it. I still have to run the seat ontop to make sure it's going to be perfect, but I'll do that before going to sleep.


While I was moving stuff around to come up with the routing, it hit me that I should just get the rear engine-bay & taillight portion of the harness finished. I sat down with the three sections I had, slowly pulled them apart and made the best harness I could. Then, using some of the leftover I extended the wires near the regulator so that my engine-bay section can be joined to the main section out of sight. With the routing sorted I was able to start finalizing the rear section. The techflex section is for the speed sensors and oxygen sensors, and I'll start running the rest tomorrow.


The engine bay section is on stand-by until I can buy the correct heatshrink for it. Everything I have left in house has hot-glue inside, so I've got to find some that will remain flexible once it's shrunk. None of the tail-light segments I have are really worth saving, so I'm going to have to come up with something from scratch. About all they are good for is making sure I have the wire lengths correct.


Probably the best part, though, is feeling like I'm out of the slump I've felt for the last couple of weeks. Bring on Sunday!!!

-Dave
--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline Thomas

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #85 on: January 22, 2012, 06:57:47 PM »
I have been enjoying reading about your build, the car looks great. I just picked up a copy of the Dec issue of Ultra VW which has an story about the car that you are replicating in it.
58 Beetle

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #86 on: January 22, 2012, 11:29:22 PM »
Thanks! I'm gonna have to go grab a copy I guess :-) 

The build is a tonne of fun, not as fast as I'd like, but still fun.

Annnnndddd...here's today's progress.

Rear harness ready to be installed into the car:


...and as you can see, wiring can be a rather messy project!


Shortly thereafter, I managed to get the harness squeezed in past the dreaded foam, and then hooked up on the inside to the main harness.


And with the wiring harness well on it's way to completion, I figured I should start on a job I've been avoiding for a little while. The headliner.


Now, in the back of my mind I had always planned on installing the headliner without any of the padding. It's just race-car building habit, and with all the weight I've gained in wiring and electrics I'll happily take a few ounces here and there. It is, however, a decision I might live to regret. On the B-Pillars, I did need to pad the clamps as it was clear they were going to tear into the vinyl over time. A fleece blanket sacrificed a few scraps, and the fear of tearing was eliminated.




Without any padding, getting the B-Pillars wrinkle free is a serious challenge. The issue at the top is the mounting plate for the assist-straps, and can't really be avoided. At the bottom, it would seem it's more a case of my lack of experience vs. any real issue with the car or headliner. Trying to work out how to stretch the vinyl, and glue it down, is a challenge probably best fought with experience.


I did manage to eliminate a bunch of the wrinkles and waves up top, and a few down below. For whatever reason I missed taking photos of them though. Moving on to the Passenger side, you'd think the experience of the driver's side would help, but now everything is in mirror image! The top detail shows the main reason why I might change my mind on the padding...any of the "left-over" padding from before is going to show through as bubbles. 'Course, if I start padding now...that might make the b-pillar section look even worse. Hmmmm....


After completing the two pillars I decided to call it a night. Slow and steady is going to win the Headliner battle.

-Dave

--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline Randy

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #87 on: January 22, 2012, 11:48:00 PM »
Great progress, Dave! :clap:
I look forward to seeing this thread nightly.

The old glue from the headliner in mine was hard enough I used a scraper then sanded it down with 80 grit and that seemed to fix the show through. Careful use of a hair dryer on the vinyl helps stretching it a lot. Good luck.

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #88 on: January 24, 2012, 01:50:28 AM »
Rarely do I think about paying someone to work on my car...but wow, would I every consider it now! Headliner isn't impossible, but it is damned difficult! I'm still not even sure I'm going to keep it. There is one spot on the B-Pillar that really annoys me, and now that I've done more I'm not sure I'll be happy with it. On the one hand, it's turning out way better then my '69 headliner ever was...and lets be honest, at the end of the day I'm taking this car racing. BUT, and this is a big but, I'm not convinced the level of craftsmanship on this part matches the rest of the car. From day one I wanted a car that was finished to "magazine standards...and so far, the headliner isn't doing it for me. Gotta sleep on it, and I'm going to finish the job to the end. I mean, I might as well assemble the car before I decide it's all gotta come out to be redone. Waves I see right now may settle out, or end up hidden by some piece of equipment I haven't installed yet.


I did decide this afternoon that installing the headliner without any padding was going to be a waste of time. The C-Pillars would be so challenging to have look "right" I just couldn't wrap my head around it. Living in small town BC doesn't leave much in terms of shopping options at 6pm, so I came up with the best thing I could find. It's polyester, so it won't rot, and the thickness is about right. Having no record of what the padding shapes looked like, I used a combination of google and common sense to come up with something reasonable.


First up is the 'rear window' section. Wow was that a challenge! It's a simple piece of vinyl for crying out loud, why did it almost beat me!?! :P  So, overall it's not _bad_, and I'm not really sure how I would have pulled out the slight wrinkles around the corner...so I can live with those. But the top bar has two waves in it, due to the padding underneath. The bottom ends aren't even (due to the padding not being exactly the same)...and I discovered what happens if you hit the vinyl with too much heat on the lower right. Hmph. For the moment I haven't decided on what I'm doing with the firewall (Dynamat, carpet, bare?) so I'm not yet sure what I'll do to fix any of the issues (if anything). I was mildly discouraged at this point, but figuring that I'm in this far, I pressed on.

With the rear quarter panel sections I discovered a new and interesting problem. Nowhere in my head did I think about the fact that I've moved the firewall in by 3". This headliner piece, which already seemed complex enough to mount, was going to need to be modified to accommodate. I went slow, reeeeaaallly slow. But in the end, I'm actually pretty stoked with how good its looking. There are some big waves/wrinkles in the far right that would normally be hidden by the rear seat back. Not quite sure what I'm going to do, but the "under window" piece is technically long enough to go over this part.


With that completed I decided I really didn't want to be up another hour to do the passenger side. One one hand I'm starting to feel comfortable with the job, but on the other hand when I'm tired is likely when I'm going to screw up really badly.

Before heading to write this, though, I decided to install some Dynamat on the roof. Initially I wasn't going to, mostly due to adding yet more weight, but then I thought about it and realized I would have to do a whole second headliner if I ever changed my mind! With that, I tossed in three strips of Dynamat. When doing a panel, you actually don't have to cover the whole thing (despite what Dynamat might tell you), but you do need to do enough to make sure you stop the panel from resonating. Just how effective is it?

http://www.youtube.com/embed/YH0bwv1henY

I'm knocking on the panel with the same force.

-Dave
« Last Edit: January 24, 2012, 01:54:47 AM by owdlvr »
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build
« Reply #89 on: January 25, 2012, 12:22:04 AM »
Well, there are good days...and bad days. And sometimes they occur on the same night in the garage!

First up, the bad news...cracked the paint, on the roof...from the inside. Long story short, I slipped while massaging the area around the rollbar. It was a stupid mistake, but one I can't take back. Of course, you just know 6 milliseconds before I did this my brain said "wait, you should move that...nope!" :P 


On to the good news! You know the best part about race cars? They have sponsorship decals. hahahaha


The passenger side C-Pillar portion went in relatively easily. Its funny how much you forget just with a night of sleep. Do I pull here, and glue there first...or over here? It mostly went okay, but I have bigger waves in the front lower portion that are visible. I'm starting to relax a bit about the overall look, I mean...at the end of the day its going to look good. And, quite frankly, a couple of ripples in the headliner aren't going to slow me down any :P

After a big shop clean, I started on the main headliner section. I can see how this would be challenging in a normal car. With the roll bar, it's super annoying! To make it more interesting, the roll bar just happens to be right where a headliner bow is. Awesome.


So far I've managed to get the rear section pretty tight, but once you get to the roll bar I'm having difficulty getting the material to pull tight enough forward.


And here's where I've left it for the night. Now that I'm able to get some tension on it, I got the garage up to 20deg C, and will let it sit overnight. Perhaps that will help creases to relax a little. If I'm honest, I really wish I had a friend who did interiors to come help finish it. With the roll bar its just a bit trickier then I'm comfortable with, considering the challenge I found the other parts to be. But no such friend exists...so I guess I'm on my own!


-Dave


--
'71 Type 1 - Rally Car Project
'75 Type 1 - Heirloom
'95 F150 - Unfortunate daily driver...