VWP #160 cam , must be super secret
at this point all camshaft bearing work has been performed -- case has been assembled and disassembled multiple times .
testing both the crank and camshaft for ease of rotation when case torqued , again covered earlier in engine build topic .
for the first time cam and crank are in , #1 pointing up ready to slip on the connecting rod ,followed by the case half , #1 cam int and exhaust lifters and a few case nuts to clamp it together .
why , so I can install a piston , cylinder and a pushrod to check and adjust cam timing .
this is a long topic , cam selection, rpm and torque , setting cam opening and closing events .
if you want me to get into it let me know , but for now lets see what I set my VWP #160 super secret fast cam to .
hey looks like I decided on 25 deg BTDC for the intake
and for the important closing 65 deg ABDC for intake closing
so what changed - my original cam was ground on 112 lobe with 22 /66 timing events for both int and ex
lift was .385 so if you know your cams this is pretty much a Emngle fk10 ground on 112 lobe running straight up or 4 deg retarted from timing card.
so why switch , nothing wrong with that cam ,very wide broad power band ,but for me felt like it rolled over in the upper rpm .
as well I don't think it was 100 % on for my gearing .so since I had changed my gearing and needed a new cam I contacted
Jason at VWP / paradise motorsports .why because my old cam was from them and in fact worked well and these guys are a great information source as well .
I ran over my plan and what I wanted.
I wanted a tighter power band making more torque from 5200 rpm up to 7500 rpm . so it was decided to step up a hair from what I had .it is always
good having something to compare against .
so 112 lobe went too a 110 lobe . lift changed from .385 to .398 and duration increased from 268 to 270
so its kinda like a fk10+ on 110 lobe with a hair more lift.
lifters are SCAT with the slr treatment , resurfaced , parkerized and polished.
jumping ahead here to engine in and ready to fire .HERE is a good tip /what I do : yes grease the lobes and lifter face with the camshaft break in paste LUCAS grease but only lightly oil the lifters before dropping into the case
as well as oil the pushrod cup at both ends and fill the pushrods with oil . in my case as well I remove inner springs and run .006 -.008 lash .
reason is you want those lifters to rotate as soon as it cranks and assembly lube may prevent that .
I start the motor run for 10-15 min varying rpm between 2500-3000 .shut it down and let it completely cool overnight .
next day same thing and finally 3rd day drive it around rolling on and off throttle getting some ring seal and keeping rpm above 2000 rpm .
home , jack it up dump break-in oil , and let cool down ,adjust valves to zero lash, and I have the luck of being able to remove my drysump pick up and yes can see all the lifters .
all good so new 30 wt Lucas break-in oil and filter , preheat oil and drive it hard .camshaft is broken in but still on single springs but now work on ring seal .good 30 min cruise hard
long slow acceleration and declaration have some fun and home .
back up on the stands .valve covers off , cool down completely overnight , remove rockers and retorque heads .install inner springs . reinstall
rockers reset lash .
cam is well broken in , rings are seated , now time for a drive it like you stole it run ,alway the most fun .
back to engine assembly
- crank prep final assembly, rods on and yep that's a home made rod bolt stretch gauge
and bang .005" bolt stretch / its around 45 lbs
picture of the calico coated rod bearings
old shcool scat 88mm flanged crank and old school 5.7" eagle H beam connecting rods
sorry again not a lot of photos but bam , short block just bolted together and ready for the top end
looks like AutoCraft dry sump pump is installed , thats half the hard work done