Author Topic: Jim Martin  (Read 88468 times)

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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #330 on: January 05, 2020, 12:35:46 PM »
I love all of your updates Jim! Thanks for posting!

Thanks , I know it’s pictures from all over the place and a bit random
But we’ll get the heads done and get to some cool stuff and where it’s at now
In the WOK garage

   Here is something you may of never seen before ,
Need to freshen up your heads at the track , just slide the complete
Aluminum boss and guide out and replace it , pretty trick

Sorry real crapy it’s not that trick but actually a old school way still done
If needed to repair heads that no longer can support overaized valve guides.
Like I said these Frankenstein heads have all the tricks .
   So heads at this point are welded and repaired, spark plug threads repaired.
And valves are all inspected lapped in and tested for position and sealing ,what?
There is no valve rotation anymore . The clamping pressure of the valve keepers
Against the spring retainer and on the valve is so great there is never any real chance of rotation.
Now you know in this picture the valve to valve seat position has been marked .



This is the real way to check for valve sealing , this is a shot of my comp eliminators
At Darrens after a quick repair, you can see it’s built up vacuum over 25 inches and
Seals so well you can lift the head off the bench no problem , I do The same at work using my
A/C machines vacuum pump , as well tested and found best position on my heads this way.

  Recap , all head repairs performed . Valves guides measured and ok , valve position marked and tested
Spark plug threads and welding and machine work done , time for valve spring upgrade next




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #331 on: January 05, 2020, 07:38:26 PM »
   here we go ,Kmotion k800 valve springs ,Raceware head studs valve spring pressure tester and installed spring height micrometer


the next step was part need to know spring installed height and old spring pressure test
as well as test new spring pressures and adjust spring height .and test possible new spring retainers.
my old spring retainers are getting pretty beat up so I wanted to replace as precaution.
not so easy as like we know my heads are old and so are the valves which are still the 3 groove vw style and not the new
single groove v8 style that everyone uses now.the difference is also the angle of the keeper 7 deg for 3 groove and 10deg for single sure grip style.
well I did find a pair of 8mm /7 deg retainers made for my k800 valve springs made by comp cams , so brought a set in to check.hey never know ?
compcams on the left and my retainers on the right ,crap as you can see big difference on possible installed height but gotta check.

   So the data begins ,yep takes time but need to know -measure every installed spring height for all 8 valves to start

   this is where you need to be organized as its easy to screw up .
looks like original installed height on #1 exhaust measure 1.875"

once I had check all original spring heights time to check with the compcam retainers.
data done installed height for both retainers completed


   




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #332 on: January 08, 2020, 08:00:55 PM »
— So what does it all mean and why?
In the past always felt as motor seemed to roll over a bit and flat line power wise in the top end back of the track ,could be many many things and hey valve float could be 1 of them .
So that’s why collecting the old valve spring data was very important .
    Now data from Kmotion goes like this ,they do not give you a installed height but a coil bind number ,in my case k800 springs are good for max compression
Of 1.080”and from that add a safety cushion of 0.060” plus your lift say 0.560” add them up and that give me a min installed spring height of 1.700” so I have lots of room
From my old installed height of 1.860” , 0.160” is allot.
     Next I started measuring all my original springs pressures using my spring tester ,into the vice they go , not shown is 2 machine blocks I made
to keep things identical .1 block for original set height of 1.860” and the other block for 1.310” representing my old lift height .so when you tighten the vise pinching the spring against the
spring pressure measuring tool the machined blocks stop the Vise at the same point every time .

  Found some old data I had written down looks like this ,ill say im checking 2 things when I look back at it .
what were the original installed pressures and how bad are the springs worn at installed height and various lifts.
   I see for example my original installed spring height of 1.860” the old springs were 160 lbs and the new spring was 14 lbs stronger at 174lbs
                 OLD                     NEW
1.860"    160 lbs           174 lbs + 14
1.820"    178 lbs           200 lbs + 22
1.320"    394 lbs           439 lbs.+ 45

    Since I new my original valve lift and installed height I could use the chart on the Kmotion site and then compare at my end .
 1.860" right about 160 lbs, ok .minus my old valve lift say .536”= 1.324" so about 410 lbs, a bit weak but with out knowing how old these springs are not bad .
what I changed was this . 
  valve spring installed height shimmed to 1.820"  exhaust  (38mm SS valves )
and 1.800” spring installed height for the intakes (46mm SS valves )

so 1.820" - .550” = about 1.270” = 200lbs installed height and 450lbs  over the nose .
  And for the intakes 1.800” -.550 = about 1.250” = 210lbs installed height and 460lbs over the nose
Yep pressures are up ! Not huge but 40-50lbs is allot ,

Im sure I mentioned this but I removed all the inner springs ,and broke engine in on just the outer springs .
This combined with my previously mentioned break in has always worked for me so will never change .
1 more thingg CC the combustion chambers .down to 26CC's now

Head work done , fresh copper head gaskets and mounting hardware .time to torque them up .
Always great to have my girls help .


I was asked about torque wrenches ,yes I have both digital and clicker style ,both Snap-on and for engine work
I will always use clicker style ,I found it to be more consistant as you use the same speed and motion resulting with a release click .
Where as with the digital it doesn’t click just beep and I find as you approach the torque your pull speed varies to much resulting ion uneven torque .
Great for checking torque and certain things but not head studs
« Last Edit: January 08, 2020, 08:13:54 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #333 on: January 08, 2020, 08:12:27 PM »
great shot , heads fully torqued and you can see the trick 6th stud nuts , they recess into the heads and centre the 8mm head studs  ,
 again there just pretend now , but they still  look cool .
head studs are left long , great place to attach things ? in the future
« Last Edit: January 08, 2020, 11:14:37 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #334 on: January 08, 2020, 10:34:51 PM »
crossed a few more things off the list ,
  i know it was real basic and not allot of detail but it was supposed to be basic with some details tossed in
-guess this is where we are at ,remember this it was i think one of the first photos.
pushrod tubes,pushrods and rockers installed .valve covers going on and2 stage oil pump installed and some other bits .

 now we can look at some cooler things .
   
   RECAP: WOK engine quest for the 9's real biggest changes :
     -  turbo exhaust housing and billet inlet wheel
     -  camshaft
     -  headstuds
     -  valve springs
     -  clutch
and all the stuff to make it fit and work
   im always asked so many questions about the engine so figured post up the basics , im not a big brand name dropper but always add
it as someone always wants to know .fyi: the basics of this motor are real OLD school parts ,still going strong .

- ARPM case all type 4 main bearings , center flange conversion and oil modifications
- 88 mm scat flanged crank, 6 doweled
- 5.7" eagle rods, chevy clevlite bearings
- crowler camshaft , scat slr treated lifters
- CE straight cut gear set
- all bearings calico coated
- Pauter 94mm cylinders
- JE pistons
- total seal rings , gapless 1st at present
- ARPM modified heads 38/46mm valves, k800 springs ,heavily repaired and modified
- 10mm raceware headstuds
- manton pushrods
- scat 1.4 rockers with oiling mods
- CE dual groove pulley



- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already
« Last Edit: January 08, 2020, 11:07:59 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #335 on: January 10, 2020, 07:15:41 AM »
Dry-Sump oiling .
who says can't be done ,not me.
  the main issue in running dry sump oiling in a VW bug is SPACE.
Tube chassis race car , no issue .Steel bodied vw big trouble .
many that try give up and put the Oil tank inside the car ,totally dangerous as having
6-8 litres of 200 deg flammable oil inside a car during a accident could be bad .
  So where to put it ?
2 things need to happen . First find a pump and second find or make a tank .
I also needed a pump that has a fuel pump drive on it .
Ok these are rare now as old school mechanical drive fuel pumps are not used to much anymore .
   I was looking for a Auto-Craft 2 stage pump with drive ,took some time but finally lucked out and found a brand new one from Roger Crawford .!!!!
wow that was like hitting the jackpot .N.O.S.
mounted it on my old mini lathe and broke in the pump for about 1 hour .that sucker moves oil !!!
   It was original very hard to turn , tight ! excellent ,and did loosen up after run in time .wanted to get any debris out of pump.
I did premeasure and had room for the extended length of the pump as well was lucky the drive cleared as well, just needed to
change direction of my hilborn MFI pump and add some new mounting holes .
oil lines well a issue

« Last Edit: January 12, 2020, 10:46:34 AM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #336 on: January 12, 2020, 05:20:32 PM »
  Pump , check.
now that I had it in my hands it was time for the tank .
I managed to find a small dragster tank from Peterson fluids .
after a phone call I received the PDF of the tank and made a cardboard mock up .
well looks like it might fit ,its tight but with a bit of thinking should work out.

  ordered tank with heater and got my fitting installed ,also made a poor boys site glass from some teflon tube ,works very well for watching the oil level

mounting brackets installed

and tank in no problem
  Space was very tight and I used a combo of special AN fittings , since AN-!2 line is not the most flexible it take a bit more outa the box thinking.
But it all worked out .


  now since this photos the tank again has been modified with some additional fittings .
bungs for additional temp sensors ,better location for site glass tube ,magnet holder and most important inlet from vacuum pump - oil in and out are
an-12 , breathers are an-16 ,oil pump prelude an-8
now that I don't have this massive 4" deep sump hanging from the bottom of the engine I also got from Roger a brand new
Auto-craft drysump pick up ,found this pic on the net .
uses a AN-10 to the suction side of the 2 stage pump

out of the pump same setup AN-8 oil lines .

I was asked why dry sump ?well its real cool ,na more than that , like I had mentioned im all about crankcase pressure/blowby control .
over the years I have blown my share of oil onto the track surface and finally never wanted to be that guy again .
    pretty easy .no oil in the motor , no oil to leak as well as less crankcase pressure as you just free'd up space in the motor that
was taken up by engine oil and never have to worry about a consistant oil supply under the hardest acceleration .
no brainer.
also combine it with a vacuum pump and its unmatchable .this combo is with out a doubt the best thing I have done .

« Last Edit: January 12, 2020, 05:34:13 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #337 on: January 12, 2020, 05:22:15 PM »
 single and dual clutch combo's

- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #338 on: January 13, 2020, 01:28:52 PM »
-  i have run allot of clutches , really every time i pulled my motor i would try something new .
Single setups this is what worked and survived ; Kennedy pressure plates in both the standard and aluminum shoe stage #2
combined with either the Cooperhead disc or Daikin disc - both worked excellent and for me i would give the Cooperhead the nod
over the Daikin for a bit more abuse at the track and say the Daikin for aggressive street use .
  And same setup for milder engines with a stage #1 pressure plate would be fine .




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #339 on: January 14, 2020, 01:30:47 PM »
Dual disc clutch setups .
   Why? for many there is really only 1 main reason but for me 2 reasons .
1st -is the ability for the clutch to hold more power by doubling the surface area ,makes sense for higher horse power cars .
2nd - and equally important for me is the ability for the clutch to take more heat caused by slipping controlled by my D.I.P  electronic clutch management controller (ECMC) 
allowing for smooth and controlled launches while saving that important ring gear . Clutch Management is a topic for discussion on its own, well get there soon.

  there are some things that need to be understood with using any clutch system , its the weight of the clutch discs being accelerated or decelerated by the syncro's in the
transmission as well as shifting or engagement speed  . yes, gear oil is very  important to allow the correct amount of slip and friction to allow for correct operation .
  my transaxle uses standard syncros so you can see why this is very important for me .
Also not many know this but all i have ever used in my car is the original 100% Stock shifter , no fancy unit in there but Stock .Why , obviously to keep my engagement shift speed down
and save my syncros , trust me i still was shifting at times quite fast but smooth .

   OIL--quickly on that again , i have tried many gear oils and there are some i like better that others . but again this stuff is unbelievable , trust me . USE IT .
I have been sponsored by Lucus oil for years now ,but one thing they haven't been able to supply is a transaxle oil .
a little leg work and I have found the perfect product .100% WOK certified as the stuff to use .
like I was saying no wear in my transaxle !!,this is nuts I cannot tell you how much abuse and passes this unit has put up with .
 this oil does what it says it does .USE IT if you want your gearbox to live and shift like there's no tomorrow.
click torco and read up on it ,you'll see why  .
TORCO

   This is the first Dual clutch i used , ya did not survive , and did not like to slip and was very noisy
Its a Tilton dual disc setup and you can see in this picture ( from flywheel looking up to pressure plate )
the amount of warp and areas of no contact , would i recommend this clutch , Yes but not for a slipping application but maybe a on/off race application , not slip and drag  .
the weight of both tilton discs is less than most single discs , so shift speed can be very fast , due to the syncros ability to slow or accelerate the discs quickly between shifts .






 
 




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #340 on: January 14, 2020, 03:18:43 PM »
  Now here is a absolute work horse of a dual clutch !!!
this is the Kennedy dual disc clutch , plus used only a stage#1 pressure plate , yep who says you need a stage #2 all the time .
its all about matching components and adjusting clamping pressures , if i remember i shimmed the pressure plate with 0.030" washers
to gain another few lbs face pressure . smooth as butter , easy pedal pressure and holds like a vise grip when needed . if i was going to use it again
only and only because i was upping potential motor output i would of replaced the pressure plate with a stage #2 .
i have put 100's of passes on this clutch , 100's of hard launches and quite a few street miles on it .
from the flywheel looking up to pressure plate .

and from the pressure plate looking down to the flywheel

check out the floater still flat , nice colors but you can see the slip marks .
these are not a issue and even thoe the motors been in and out and apart multyple times i never touched the clutch at all .
if its flat dont mess with it !!! if its holding dont mess with it !!!

the notches machined into the flywheel are to support and lock the floater plate between the discs .
again still flat and lots slip heat check markes , also this is a 6 bolt , 6 dowel flandged flywheel .


   




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #341 on: January 15, 2020, 01:33:20 PM »
    So if the Kennedy dual disc worked so good and for so long and still has tons of life in it why change ?
i noticed my transaxle was becoming a bit notchy , not miss a shift or grinding notchy  just notchy feeling .
so since i was making a 4th gear change  a closer inspection showed the syncros were slightly bent so they would not sit evenly on the syncroniser cone .
of course they were replaced , But what caused this .
   I already new the only real down-point  is the weight of the Kennedy 2 discs , there are full size 200 mm discs and  each one weighs more than a stock disc .
so put 2 heavy large diameter discs in there and those poor syncros need to work very hard accelerating and decelerating the mass of 2 heavy discs .and because of that
they took a bit of a small beating . now remember the Kennedy clutch has been in there for years of abuse ,so syncro issues after hundreds of passes and hard accelerating shift , no big deal .
would say to be expected at some point .
  SO moving fwd still with the plan into the 9's requires so many small things to come together and another piece is spend less time easy cautious shifting and not accelerating .
But get into the next gear quicker and back to accelerating . this should also do something else . by shifting quicker and getting back on the throttle should help keep the car
more stable between shifts as the car will not unload and reload the rear suspension .
 Out with my old Stock shifter and in with a new prototype shifter "night-stick select from wolfgang ent " this is a unit i have been helping Steve perfect and
yes will be able to dial-in my shiftspeed/reduction , more on this shifter later .
  Clutch choice that will still hold the poewer i make and take the heat and abuse of slipping and allow for rapid shifting with a syncro gear box
Ron Lummus REV6 is the choice .

 
   


« Last Edit: January 15, 2020, 03:17:50 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #342 on: January 16, 2020, 03:05:42 PM »
  Advantages , well there are quite a few .
- Ron sets up the initial assembly from his knowledge base and sets the shim height and selects the combination of discs and pressure plate springs
- Rons help at any time , unbelievably fantastic assistance !!!
-3 different clutch disc combos : aggressive/slippy/50/50 aggressive slippy
-3 different pressure plate spring tensions  : light / medium / hard
-adjustable initial slip by setting shim height changing pull down leverage point
- centrifugal weights to help apply more clutch clamping under high rpm
- small 6" diameter clutch disc for extremely quick shifting due to smaller diameter and weight  of the rotating clutch mass.
ability to take huge amounts of heat through use of clutch disc material as well as very thick floater , pressure plate and flywheel surface .
  not bad at all !!!
LETS TAKE A LOOK , as arrived and after track/street abuse .
above picture is as arrived , now pulling it apart to inspect
   12 point arp nuts removed and pulled the clutch cover off, this is what holds 1 of the 3 available pressure plate springs , mines a Medium.
mine has 3 centrifugal weights

pressure plate , this is what the pressure plate spring pushes against on 1 side and the other against the top disc  , basically a special top floater
its held from rotating by the 6 indexing lugs in the pressure plate spring

top disc is a 50/50 combo . half aggressive and half slippy

under the top disc is the centre floater ,held from spinning by the 6 aluminum posts

bottom disc , see how small that unit is compared to a standard  almost 8" vw clutch disc

my bottom disc is a aggressive

and finally my 6 bolt , 6 at  8mm dowel flywheel , not lightened and weighs the same as a standard vw flywheel
also now you can see the 6 aluminum post very well and the shimming washers to set pull down height are bellow those , i had 13 shims at 10 thou each


   







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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #343 on: January 16, 2020, 06:00:38 PM »
  So how did the REV6 perform ?
very very well , it performed just as it was designed to do. held under full boost ,took massive amounts of heat from slipping ,
allowed me to shift very fast and smooth .
would I recommend this unit , Yes I would .there are single and dual disc versions as well as a full street version now ,well looking into
check out Rons products they are excellent quality and support
https://ronlummusracing.com
  Now ,like any component there is never a install it and never touch it deal ,everything need adjustment .Ron does a excellent job reviewing your data
and building the clutch tailored to your needs . the only thing I found outa the box was that I could use a tad more slip as it was a hair to aggressive
for me ,this is due to mostly the way I drive ,im not a dump it kinda guy but a more easy out the pedal guy ,that makes a big difference to clutch set up.
I was used to a very controlled long gentle slip using my ECMS controller and Kennedy clutch ,so this was a bit of a learning curve using a Clutch
designed for use without any form of clutch management . this applied power to my rear wheels a lot sooner forcing my back end to plant hard against my shock stops .
   After breaking in the clutch as per Rons instructions and doing some testing at mission ,making suspension ,shocks and tire adjustments it was now performing
very well but still a bit aggressive ,so I reconnected my ECMS and added some timed and controlled slip .Wow now I could see I was heading in the right direction .
  After talking with Ron it was time to remove the engine ,inspect the clutch and make adjustments .
this is the time now that the motor was out again to modify the exhaust turbo housing and exhaust and make the new intake .Clutch looked good and photos sent to Ron.
  Now my clutch was originally adjusted to .080" pulldown that was changed to .100" pulldown .this will now allow more initial clutch slip before full engagement .
lets see how its held up .
  Flywheel , you can see the shims under the aluminum stands , lots of clutch dust in the slots and lots of heat slip check marks .
shows the clutch is working hard and there is some slip ,and good contact

  backside of the  floater , again good contact .,slip and check marks, sucker is taking heat .
between the flywheel and the backside of first floater is the aggressive disc .

top side of floater , big difference this is where the 50/50 disc is sandwiched ,wow big difference ,longer slip marks as well

backside of pressure plate , again long slip marks but less heat generated

  Very interesting to see the difference between the 2 disc and the contact surfaces . the thing works !
talked with Ron the other day and will send the complete unit down for inspection and refresh
  more on this clutch and how I abused it testing my ECMS later on
« Last Edit: January 17, 2020, 05:13:12 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #344 on: January 17, 2020, 05:56:31 PM »
 Quest for the 9's list
When I start going through this it was really a lot of work ,so many little things but all important .
 looks like the meat and potatoes are done :
.Trans inspected and new synchros and 1.00 4th gear
.Turbo repaired and upgraded with a billet inlet wheel and new exhaust housing ,header pipe fabricated
.New camshaft ,shorter duration more lift
.Engine inspected and overhauled
.k800 valve spring inspected and installed and readjusted
.EGT probes installed
.New REV6 clutch in ,tested and adjusted
.New intake fabricated
.Drysump oiling , done previously

I guess the last thing to talk about before some cool fun stuff is my vacuum pump system ,everyone asked , even from around the Globe I still
get e-mails and questions , so guess this is next .
- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few more off now




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #345 on: January 17, 2020, 05:58:04 PM »
  Vacuum pump and why not crankcase ventilation : hugely important topic lots of progression pictures , need to edit them a bit ,will take some time .
and again if you have a question or comment post it up , just dont always e-mail me .

  So for fun ,
  Had a few people e-mail me about my ECMS - Yes it works very well  .
But until i test final version with a few more bells and whistles itll have to wait but will get to it here soon with kinds of data and video of both with and without
   but does it work , Yep here is the proof 
this is the 3rd pass testing at mission with the ECMS set-up with REV 6 clutch , night-stick select ,16 psi in tires , 14-15 lbs boost
 1.404_ 60'

« Last Edit: Yesterday at 03:12:23 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
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