Author Topic: the '55 Ragtop.....are we done yet? (Read 169142 times)

Russ · « **Reply #210 on:** April 24, 2011, 10:37:43 AM »

wow man it is looking freakin amazing

silas · « **Reply #211 on:** April 24, 2011, 12:40:46 PM »

Quote from: josh on April 15, 2011, 06:22:57 AM

...Silver soldered a 1/4" universal/swivel socket adapter on...

love it!!

josh · « **Reply #212 on:** April 26, 2011, 12:37:53 PM »

Thanks Yo!

Mounting cage lastnight, got seat frames in and a couple other goodies for test fit too

She's a tight fit with the stock seats! My 57 ( which the cage came from) had aftermarket buckets in it.

josh · « **Reply #213 on:** May 01, 2011, 09:20:30 PM »

had to work some god damn overtime at work this weekend (worked 18 hrs but will get 36 off to work on the 55

) still managed to get a bit of time in on the shop

back bumper brackets got some love and blade made it on...

been trying to find a happy home for the oil cooler, wasn't happy with how I had it rigged in the 57.....

welded a piece of 1" flat bar between my intermediate mount and bottom of outer torsion housing
top mounts are welded onto the bottom of the cage down bar plates

also been fiddling with the reserve lever....plan was to build a box/pan to weld to bottom of tank so the pick-up always has a solid gulp of fuel. Was digging through my drawers of fittings and came across this little stainless tray that fit the build....

took a little profiling the flange to contour to the curve of the tank but I think it will work out great ( stamped shape matches the look of the bottom of tank

)

stefan · « **Reply #214 on:** May 01, 2011, 09:30:33 PM »

looks killer josh, but will it clear the tierods when turning back and forth? it looks awsome though!

josh · « **Reply #215 on:** May 02, 2011, 05:38:23 AM »

Quote from: stefan on May 01, 2011, 09:30:33 PM

looks killer josh, but will it clear the tierods when turning back and forth? it looks awsome though!

Thanks Stefan, that was my major concern with this whole set-up. I have the steering box in and just reamed my spindles to "flip" them but can't find my pass side tie rod

Holding up a pc. of pipe in place it is real close to the outlet fitting (blue cap). Like 1/4" clearance

Do you think I could offset the arm by bending 2 45* jogs in it without compromising strength? The way I'm thinking is the alignment doesn't care if the rod is straight oe has a 3" offset S bend in it..... Should still track the same, No?

josh · « **Reply #216 on:** May 05, 2011, 12:52:54 AM »

mock-up of wheels and running boards...

also been making up fuel and oil lines

josh · « **Reply #217 on:** May 12, 2011, 12:21:06 AM »

slowed down a bit last couple weeks but still picking away at the list of things to do....

fit front fenders and had to re-do the lower corners where they meet the apron (were welded up to match up with old scabbed shitty apron before)

with any luck I will be modifying the door bars on my cage over the weekend, they don't clear the "ribbed doors"

josh · « **Reply #218 on:** May 12, 2011, 08:54:48 PM »

got a welder buddy from work lined up to tig my door bars up this weekend (don't trust my TIG skillz for a safety part) so I had to get crackin'

this is the RLR chromoly bolt in kit from my old 57, I remember the door bars in that car rubbing the door panels. Now on the early "ribbed doors" they actually hit the metal skin behind the panel......gotta modify

took a while with a carbide bit (wish I had a notcher) but got them fitting the hoop perfect. TIG machine is at the father-in-laws so instead of hauling the welder here or the car there I tacked them where I want with my MIG and will just bring the hoop over.

You can see where the green tape is on the door as a reference of the door panel....clears by 1/4" now

while im at it i'm going to ditch the eyelets on the cross bar for the shoulder straps and add some hoops to keep the straps from moving around. I guess the eye bolt is for a 4 point belt and I have 5 point simpsons

Chromo is apparently a little tricky to weld as you have to bring it up to around 400 deg to pre heat ensuring good penetration....something to do with the high carbon content

owdlvr · « **Reply #219 on:** May 12, 2011, 11:05:04 PM »

Hey Josh,

I've run belts on roll bars for years without the hoops, if you tie them up correctly they will barely move 1/8" left or right.

-Dave

BUSDADDY · « **Reply #220 on:** May 13, 2011, 08:15:03 AM »

Quote from: josh on May 12, 2011, 08:54:48 PM

Chromo is apparently a little tricky to weld as you have to bring it up to around 400 deg to pre heat ensuring good penetration....something to do with the high carbon content

You'll also want to get the correct filler rod, I can't recall the number right now but a little Google action will reveal the recommended rod for 4130.

Looking good Josh!

josh · « **Reply #221 on:** May 13, 2011, 08:44:56 AM »

I know dave but what the hell, I'm already this far.

Bus daddy, I thought I'd try and stick it together with some aluminum rod..... You think it will hold?

JK. I have sourced the correct rods.... For the chromoly it's a certanium 72 (can't remember the 4 digit #) and for the belt retainers which are mild steel it was recommended to use a 309 SS rod.

Alisdair · « **Reply #222 on:** May 14, 2011, 07:49:03 AM »

Quote from: owdlvr on May 12, 2011, 11:05:04 PM

I've run belts on roll bars for years without the hoops, if you tie them up correctly they will barely move 1/8" left or right.
-Dave

ok safety first .
The reason for the hoops is to stop the belts moving during a collision . They may not move when your driving around town but they WILL move if you get T boned or roll your car . i think its important to fit the hoops !!

josh · « **Reply #223 on:** May 14, 2011, 10:57:32 PM »

not that I plan on testing that theory

got cage all welded up today...

Bubba · « **Reply #224 on:** May 15, 2011, 04:22:26 AM »

If your cage material is 4130 and less than, say 0.120" wall thickness, then preheat is not necessary. Controlled cooling is more important. Using 4130 rod is not recommended due to the high hardness and propensity for cracking. An 80k carbon steel electrode in the ER80S-D6 category will give you good strength welds, matching the parent metal strength, without all the preheat and possible cracking problems using more exotic metals.

What made you decide to use 309SS on mild steel? Was it recommended by a boilermaker? ER70S gives you a good strength weld with all of the correct properties and is relatively easy to weld. The common use for 309SS on mild steel is for corrosion resistant overlay.

If you did weld your cage with CrMo electrode, I would strongly suggest getting your welds tested for cracks before you stick too much stuff in the way.

josh · « **Reply #225 on:** May 15, 2011, 08:33:23 AM »

after all the research and questions I ask, figures as soon as it's done now I'm second guessing everything I listened to $:-\$ this is why im not a welder

the rod used wasn't straight 4130 (I was told) but ? as for the SS, it was suggested by a very experienced welding shop forman....I didn't ask why

Sounds like you know your shit.....you work in some sort of NDT field?

Bubba · « **Reply #226 on:** May 17, 2011, 03:53:45 PM »

josh · « **Reply #227 on:** May 19, 2011, 09:11:43 PM »

Been working on fuel lines, regulator, breather box

Trying a new way (for me) to vent crankcase with an aluminum box i'm building. Other cars i've had ran the el cheap-o empi box on fire wall running one -8 vent off each valve cover, off fuel pump block off and oil fill on alt stand. always had lots of oil in box and at extended rpm some misting overflow. new one measures 3x3 1/2x20" hangs off sheet metal lip under deck hinges. Venting through 2 K&N style breathers, box will have only 2x -10 AN's on fuel pump and oil fill, leaving valve covers alone. Done lots of research on subject and theory that's making sense to me is that venting #3 side is not ideal due to oil sling of crank and that valve cover being filled with oil. plus with a vent to atmosphere there makes oil draining back through those pushrod tubes near impossible simply due to the 2 different pressures
Anyway, no pics of box until it is tiged up but I descided to mount areomotive return reg on the side of box, will sit about here....

got bulkhead fittings mounted, -8AN on SS hardline will be bent up soon

The monster fuel pump doesn't have much room where I stuck it and a -8 90 deg hose end wouldn't fit soI made up a little ORB oring reducer 90 to sneak out of the pump, combination of fittings turned downed, silver soldered etc....

little one had to try running it through the gears

owdlvr · « **Reply #228 on:** May 20, 2011, 07:23:13 AM »

Quote from: Alisdair on May 14, 2011, 07:49:03 AM

Quote from: owdlvr on May 12, 2011, 11:05:04 PM

I've run belts on roll bars for years without the hoops, if you tie them up correctly they will barely move 1/8" left or right.
-Dave
ok safety first .
The reason for the hoops is to stop the belts moving during a collision . They may not move when your driving around town but they WILL move if you get T boned or roll your car . i think its important to fit the hoops !!

Lots of t-boning trees and rolling of cars in stage rally, and the hoops are not required or used. Also got to test the t-bone theory in a justy which was t-boned by a tow truck at 80kph plus...Warwick survived, car did not. Belts didn't move. I'll stop hijacking Josh's thread now.

Car is coming along awesome. Where's the fuel pump mounted?

-Dave

owdlvr · « **Reply #229 on:** May 20, 2011, 07:26:55 AM »

Hmmmm. Can't edit a post on the iPad. I just realized all my examples use a proper race seat, not a low back. The seat alone would keepnbelts from shifting.

-Dave

OUTKAST · « **Reply #230 on:** May 23, 2011, 11:28:38 AM »

At this level like a few other car this like art .Flow, lines, symmetry ,color Lookingb awsome great job

Jeremy · « **Reply #231 on:** June 13, 2011, 09:39:52 AM »

Any updates Josh?

josh · « **Reply #232 on:** June 13, 2011, 06:11:36 PM »

No not really, yardwork/landscaping/irrigation has been consuming all my time and $$$$$

Progress in the next couple weeks

buggy1 · « **Reply #233 on:** June 14, 2011, 08:22:01 AM »

Gotta hate when real life gets in the way of the hobbies!
Andy

josh · « **Reply #234 on:** June 28, 2011, 09:13:14 PM »

small update....

bought some tires and stuffed them on quick to see how they fit, rears are 215 M&H DOT street slicks fronts are nantang (sp?) 135's not staying on the centerlines

backspacing on the ercos are a bit better. These came from James's old copper bug......Slicks still have the titties on them!! Have rims for sale in classified if anyone is interested, $400....they're mint

James Buchan · « **Reply #235 on:** June 29, 2011, 12:15:17 PM »

400!!!!!!! Shit mang I think I paid 1500 and they dont make em anymore!!!

I may still have receipts... will have a look...

josh · « **Reply #236 on:** July 01, 2011, 11:26:02 PM »

Quote from: James Buchan on June 29, 2011, 12:15:17 PM

400!!!!!!! Shit mang I think I paid 1500 and they dont make em anymore!!!

I may still have receipts... will have a look...

good deal then

you should buy 'em back

man I wish I could weld aluminum like this.......

have a couple K&N breathers to go on the 3/4" stubs, -10AN vents go to fuel pump block off and alt stand. Bracket for fuel reg. will be welded to side and SS hard lines finished

josh · « **Reply #237 on:** July 09, 2011, 09:44:37 AM »

baby steps......

got my hardlines all bent up and flared, just need to weld bracket for reg and bottom tabs for right carb feed. unsure if i'll stick a pressure gauge at opposite side of box than the fuel reg

or just a schraeder (sp?) fitting to set up and check with an accurate meter rather than the crappy std. 1 1/2" gauges?

what would you guys do?

Bruce · « **Reply #238 on:** July 09, 2011, 10:59:41 AM »

I would go with the fitting to install a temp gauge rather than permanently mounting one of the cheap gauges.

A few years ago I had what I thought was fuel pressure problems. One of those cheap gauges said the pressure was good. But the problem persisted. Tried another cheap gauge. Confirmed the first gauge. The third gauge said the first 2 were junk.

josh · « **Reply #239 on:** July 09, 2011, 11:17:36 AM »

That's what I'm leaning towards and actually already have a fitting all silver soldered up for it. I use some pretty accurate test equip in my trade that will have that 3 psi on the money!