Author Topic: Initial Setup Re Caster/camber  (Read 3792 times)

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Offline kombikruiser

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« on: January 07, 2006, 08:54:29 PM »
Hey y'all...

i was wondering if someone could tell me the best way to set up initial camber and caster on a entirely new front beam on a 67  beetle. i want to be able to safely drive it to get properly alighned.  Drop spindles adjustable narrowed beam, disk brakes if that has any relevence or special consideration.

I'm trying to remember, is it supposed to be 3 1/2 or something turns on the steering wheel left to right? is that a number i should go by or is it just more important that you dont rub anywhere in the wheelwell....

For the above mentioned beam and car setup, can anyone recomend a no hassle tire setup? i like the raked out style, so if anyone knows offhand, cool.

Lastly, where is a good place to get an alighnment done on this car in the vancouver, kitsilano area? any insight would be appreciated.

thanks guys

vic

 
'57 Type 1
'67 Type 1
'66 Type 2
'67 Type 3 Fastback

Offline Bruce

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2006, 01:50:14 AM »
Setting up a BJ car is pretty easy.

First deal with castor.  This is done with the aluminum wedges under the lower tube.  Go with at least one, two if the rear is at stock height and the front is dumped.

Next is camber.  The camber adjustment VW prescribed is slightly positive.  IMO this is just stupid.  Not only does in reduce grip, it increases wear on the outsides of the tread.  I say you want the max neg camber you can get.  Do this by rotating the upper eccentric all the way inwards.  Consider getting the extra eccentric adjusters Airspeed sells for more neg camber.

Before you tackle the toe-in, you need to ensure the steering wheel is perfectly centered.  There is a tiny collar on the steering shaft of the steering box right at the hole in the box.  This collar has a small gap in it.  That gap indicates the center of the steering box.  Test this by counting turns, then position the steering wheel on the column.

Finally, adjust the length of each tie rod to get each wheel pointing straight.  To finish the alignment, you need to make some kind of track gauge.  I made a telescopic gauge out of the trim strips from a Beetle door.  I placed them face to face and wrapped a sleeve around them.  I touch them on the inside of the rim behind the axle and ahead of the axle then compare the length.  Use a piece of tape to indicate the length.  You will have to drive the car up on blocks or ramps to get underneath.  I go for around 2-3mm.

Once you have the toe set, take the car around the block to see how straight the steering wheel is.  Usually it will be a bit off, so you will have to shorten one tie rod and lengthen the other to get the wheel straight.  Do not re-position the wheel.  Repeat it as many times as necessary to get the wheel straight.

If the beam is not in the car yet, locate a dead rotten beam and cut the steering stop bracket off.  Then weld it onto the narrowed beam.  For some reason the manufacturers of narrowed beams don't put it back on.  Lazy I guess.  After you align the beam, adjust the steering stops such that there's no rubbing anywhere.

If you are very careful with your measuring of the toe, there's no need to take it to an alignment shop.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2006, 01:53:18 AM by Bruce »

Offline kombikruiser

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2006, 05:55:20 PM »
Thank you very much Bruce. That's about all the info i need to get started.Cheers!
'57 Type 1
'67 Type 1
'66 Type 2
'67 Type 3 Fastback

Offline Bruce

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2006, 07:00:21 PM »
BTW, are you the guy who's dog is your user ID?

Offline Lanny

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2006, 07:41:00 PM »
The more the camber, the easier the steering? Is that correct? That would be the reason. Also I've found that when a beam and torsions have been narrowed, there is a good chance the camber is way off, no matter where the eccentrics are set. If the dimple in the torsion stack for the set screw is off by as little as 1mm, it can effect the camber. My 3\" narrowed beam needed the 'extra range' eccentrics to allow 1 degree negative. The lower tube dimples were drilled slightly off (towards the center) causing the problem.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2006, 07:50:53 PM by Lanny »

Offline kombikruiser

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2006, 08:43:56 PM »
Yes. My dog is my user ID.
'57 Type 1
'67 Type 1
'66 Type 2
'67 Type 3 Fastback

Offline kombikruiser

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2006, 08:44:51 PM »
:lol:  
'57 Type 1
'67 Type 1
'66 Type 2
'67 Type 3 Fastback

CHEECH

Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2006, 10:33:28 PM »
Vic, Hows it goin man. You finish the Manx yet? Damn where you been.

Offline Bruce

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Initial Setup Re Caster/camber
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2006, 02:29:27 AM »
Quote
The more the camber, the easier the steering? Is that correct?
I've never noticed a coorelation between camber and steering effort.  There is a known connection between castor and steering effort.  It is said that if your castor is increased, slow speed turning (parking lots) is increased.  But, in reality on our cars this is not true.  Jim Martin has a HUGE amount of castor on his car, and the steering is still light.  It doesn't seem to matter what you do, when there's no weight on the front wheels, steering effort is low.