Author Topic: Machining  (Read 1253 times)

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Offline busnerd

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Machining
« on: December 30, 2005, 12:21:09 PM »
where do you guys have your vw cases line bored and thrust cut and cranks ground?  Thinking of doing bottom end on my bus, I want to put lots of miles on it this summer and there a a bit too much end play and the oil pressure is low.     Also, what sort of ballpark price will I be looking at to have that sort of work done??   thanks.
clarke.

it will be the type IV out of my 78 if that matters
« Last Edit: December 30, 2005, 12:21:57 PM by busnerd »

Offline Hansk

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Machining
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2005, 02:03:55 PM »
(I'm not dvkk but..)   Those type 4 blocks \"usually\" don't need this machining , but even if it does it's probably not more than $100.  It's all the rest of the stuff that will kill ya. Reconditioned rods , new cam and lifters(they wont regrind hydraulic lifters) , bearings , gaskets , etc. etc. which you will certainly also want to do once you have it all apart.  
But I would say that by far the biggest killer of these motors are the heads.  Either a broken exhaust valve or dropped seats. Either of these can be sudden death with no warning at all. I'd personally worry more about this than low oil pressure. Type 4 heads are notorious for this. I'd recommend a complete rebuild (if their not cracked)with all new valves AND SEATS installed by someone who understands these heads.(not sure who that would be) Other wise , it's all a bit of Russian roulette ;)
btw, I've heard that new replacement heads are even worse.
On the bright side , I think if all this was done you will have a super solid , better than new motor that you will never have to worry about.
Big fat black fastback

Offline busnerd

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Machining
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2005, 02:29:21 PM »
before I bought the bus, it was rebuilt in oregon when it dropped a valve on grants pass.  This was only 15K ago or so.  Cost the P.O. $1700 usd.  I have the reciept for the work done including heads, but there is no mention of the bottom end.  The only thing that worries me about this motor is the oil light flickers a bit after I stop after a long hill climb in the summer and leave it in (D) (auto).  It goes out if it's in (N) because it's a slightly higher idle.    So maybe I should just leave it well enough alone?

I know I have a similar thread to this from a few months ago, but can't make my mind up what to do?  

Offline BUSDADDY

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Machining
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2005, 09:53:00 PM »
I too am not a member of DVKK but all my type 4 busses have done that after a highway cruise when it's warm out, even the really low mile one. The owners manual says it's to be expected. If you're worried invest a few bucks in an oil pressure gauge, it'll tell you right away if you have an issue. Oil temp is useful too. What weight of oil you are running could be a factor as well. Usually the stock sender turns on the light at 4-7 psi.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS

Offline Hansk

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« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2005, 12:12:30 PM »
Well, I guess if the heads were done you should be fine there(I hope).  Making sure your motor is always running good is very important too. You don't want bad injectors making it run lean and hot etc. etc.   Keep good clean oil topped up at all times and it should be fine. I used 20/50 or straight 30 in the heat of the summer.  I've had 3 different westy's  and over loaded all of them with whole family , dog , trailers,etc. etc, etc. and beat the living daylights out of all them on the hottest days up the biggest hills.  The only problem I ever had was a dropped seat in a head I had just \"rebuilt\". I left the original seats in because the head was not cracked and looked fine. All I did was buy another head , rebuild it and off I went again. Russian roulette I tell you ,........Russian roulette.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2005, 12:13:40 PM by Hansk »
Big fat black fastback