Author Topic: Chemical Dipping A Bug?  (Read 3181 times)

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Offline 72vwtype2

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« on: September 09, 2005, 08:20:38 AM »
Has anyonve ever had there bug chemically dipped (body and/or pan)?

How well did it work? Any metal left?

How is the bare metal protected after being stripped? Do they dunk it in another chemical to protect it or do you need to primer it right away?

How many places locally do it? I am aware of Redi-Strip.

How much does it cost?

If you have done it inthe past, would you do it again in the future?

I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks.
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Offline OUTKAST

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2005, 08:31:36 AM »
I purchased a ovel clip from redi strip years back ,As I understand it primeing Ie; etching good primer is important right away .Seems some people drop there stuff off get it dipped see the final piece say they are going to cash machine and don't comeback be prepared for what you see . I have seen walnut shell blasting and that looks incredible .I ,m sure there are more experienced answers comming just my observations . Good luck with that  :)  

Offline vwshawn

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2005, 10:56:25 AM »
Check out this site, on the site they have all the information.
These guys did media blasting on my 1965 Beetle and it turned out great!
Ask for John.  Thanks
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Offline notchback

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2005, 11:22:38 AM »
The dipping into a tank route is awesome but very very pricey. If im correct i remember a few years ago when i was on another project to walnut blast a shell was around 750.00 and to dip the shell was close to double but it ended up a lot cleaner, ie no left over walnut shells to vaccumm out etc. but check with redi strip
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Offline Hoosier Daddy

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2005, 11:33:30 AM »
I did it about 5 years ago to a 58. They do put something on it that stops the rust however the idea is to get it dipped, take it home do the metal work then take is back for the coating. Your looking at about $3500 in total fees once you get it all done. The downside is you may find a lot more rust than you thought was there, the upside is once you get it done that baby will last for another 50 years!
 

Offline dannyboy

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2005, 12:12:58 PM »
the only thing i have heard that is bad about dipping, is the residual chemicals that lurk in the corners and joints that can seep out after time....
also some cars have factory glues in seams and panels, which once taken out can make cars rattle....

Offline silas

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #6 on: September 09, 2005, 08:01:03 PM »
imho, i would skip the dip.

it's like danny says. dipping is thorough, almost to thorough. the chemical will get in every nook and cranny and alot of places where you wont be able to cover with primer in a gun.

the only way to get it all covered would be to dip it in primer. which i'm pretty sure they dont do.

as much of a pain in the ass it is to blow out all the walnut shells and sand, i recommend the blasting/priming route. i did it with my 56 and i was very happy with the results. i went to airstrip in richmond and it cost around $500-$600 for 2 repro heater channels, hood and body minus fenders. expensive but worth it.

like all the others have said, prepare for the worst. i've heard some horror stories of people finding some pretty nasty s#!t under the layers of paint and filler.

good luck.

Offline ehos

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2005, 03:06:11 PM »
After the chemical dip they can dip it in a zinc coating.

I don't know if they offer that in VanCity, but here in Edmonton there used to be a place that did that.   Actually, I would check with a boat restorer/marine company.

They chemical dip parts in zinc and it's supposed to be way better than primer.  Bigger $$$ than blasting, but then again, no worries of taking off metal, warpage etc.  And if you're doing it once, thats the way to do it.

356 guys usually do the double dip (don't know if many VW's are worth the cost).

Offline Bubba

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2005, 10:07:37 PM »
Quote


They chemical dip parts in zinc and it's supposed to be way better than primer.  Bigger $$$ than blasting, but then again, no worries of taking off metal, warpage etc.  And if you're doing it once, thats the way to do it.
 
Perhaps you mean zinc chromate primer?  

Dipping your sheet metal bug in zinc galvanizing would not only warp the hell out of the metal, but also confined areas such as heater channels and tight faying surfaces would have to be relief drilled in order to avoid explosions in the dip tanks.

Chrysler products were the first (i think) to provide a zinc corrosion resistant layer as part of the primer coating.  This is a specialized coating that is applied shortly after sheet rolling.  Forming is done after this coating is applied.

A tie coat is then applied, followed by color, then the clearcoat.
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Offline steveo_32

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Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2005, 10:29:04 PM »
The chemical dip is nice but you do have to lay the primer and paint on well, I lot of my hot rod buddies do the chem dip and love it, but danny is right about the seams you do have to be aware. My 54 was dipped and has sat in primer for ten or so years and you can see the drip points after the primer was layed.
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Offline 72vwtype2

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Re: Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2012, 08:15:35 AM »
Has the technology changed over the last seven years?

Does Zinc-Phosphating after chemically dipping a car help protect it?

Have some of the issues previuosly mentioned (i.e. dripping) gone away?

Anyone have recent experience?


Thanks
« Last Edit: October 05, 2012, 08:23:41 AM by 72vwtype2 »
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Offline AirCooledRules

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Re: Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2012, 01:17:19 PM »
Like others have said, i strongly advise against chemical dipping here in BC. If you live in California.Arizone/Texas sure.

When the car is dipped all corrosion protection will be removed n areas where you cannot reapply it. Which means rust will start from the inside out and the car
will rot away slowly but surely. In dry places like i mentioned it is a good option, but not here.

Unless they do dip it in a Zinc solution ( im not sure if thats an option ) that would be a safe way to protect the steel from rust.

I believe Porsche was the first to Galvanize their bodies in 1976 and all porsches are now galvanized, actaully all steel cars are galvanized.

Blasting a beetle is probably the best way to strip, being that you can pull the body off the pan and get at anything super easily, and anything that is removed is reachable and able to be recoated.

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Offline Geoff

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Re: Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2012, 01:41:41 PM »
I'm working on a car that was dipped about 2 years ago, it was just recently brought to me and the acid makes the good metal look like new...BUT as stated above if you don't protect the metal right away rust will set in soon! This car had a phosphate wash on the outer panels just after being stripped. Now just a couple years later anyplace not treated is rusting (it's still in bare metal) and any thin areas or seams and looking sketchy! If you have yours dipped be sure to have it treated everywhere before doing anything else!

Offline beetlemandan

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Re: Chemical Dipping A Bug?
« Reply #13 on: October 06, 2012, 07:39:17 AM »
the first thing they teach in school about refinishing a car is " if the factory paint is still sticking and rust free, leave it on". when you strip it chemically you'll lose all the paint and primer and more importantly, the factory chromating. there is NO way you can duplicate that quality, don't even kid yourself that you can even come close.

also, the car survived 40+ years without nothing being done, it'll survive another 50 years easy just by spraying waxoil in the right spots without painting it. everybody wants a restoration or repaint taken to the extreme on a car that will never be exposed to snow or salt, and usually never get rained on. the trucks i paint get sent to the worst places on earth and get treated like garbage, and even with no pretreatment, just epoxy primer and polyurethane topcoat, they hold up fairly well. just think how they well they would hold up if they were treated like your beetle. both my beetles have rust yes, but they are fairweather cars and the rust they came with still is unchanged in the 15 years i've had them. and i've done nothing, not even wd-40 rustproofing.

so take the advice of someone whose painted and powdercoated more old and new stuff than you can imagine, if you need it stripped, get it blasted, and when you prime use epoxy, nothing else. and for the spots you can't get to, krown rust control. your great grandchildren will probably drive you car that way.
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