AirSpeed VW Community Forums
Technical => Chassis & Suspension Forum => Topic started by: Trevor P on September 20, 2004, 07:44:53 PM
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Well, I now have the 56's body seperated from the pan. Started welding in new halfs on the weekend. I'm doing the pan from front to back, and it will get the powdercoat treatment when ready. That being said, I wanna have all mounts, tabs, mods done before it goes out for this. Any suggestions on whether or not I need to brace the pan in any locations due to the extra HP that the 2332 will provide compared to the stock orignal 1200? Any special tips, tricks or advice?
Also wanna put in a 3/8 fuel line through the tunnel. Any tips on doing this? Would aluminum line be the best choice for this? I'm gonna open up a couple windows into the tunnel to weld the clutch tube anyways, so I imagine that this will help routing the line.
Thanks for any help provided! :D
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since know one has piped up i will jump in.
as far as adding tabs and brakets before powder coating ? that has to be looked into way before as it is impossible to know what you will need without assembling beforehand, and deciding on what fuel system requiremants are needed .as far as rear bracing ,unless you run full tunable shocks in the rear without snubbers a bar that air speed sells that links the shock towers to the rear trans mount will do
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Thanks for the reply Jim. I have the airspeed track bar, and I already know what tabs/mounts have to go where for my Berg 5. I plan on just running a set of oil shocks on the rear with snubbers and limiting straps . I was just wondering if anybody was doing anything new or different that I didn't know about to beef up the pan. I've got my list of \"to do's\" on the pan, and once thats checked off it's heading to the coaters. :rockon:
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Hey Trevor...
I just finished my pan and there are a few must haves...
Fuel line, personally I would suggest to scrap the hard line and run braided line(-6) through. It is way easier and not that much more expensive.
After powder coating the pan I would still run sealer over the pan half seams.
You need to cut one hole near the front (opposite side of the pedal assembly), cut another on the passenger side just behind the shifter.
I don't think you need to brace the pan any where. The frame horns will take the most abuse. Your running a brace bar which is good, the only other one would be welding in a mid mount to support the tranny(I think Geoff made some up).
Aside from that just depends what kind of fuel system you are hooking up as well as any extra needs like wiring your ignition box, etc... I would lay it all out on the pan, figure out all your routing and then cut you access holes and tabs. It's also a good time to make a battery box mount/ hold down, you'll need that when you go to the track.
There's a few basics... good luck
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Thanks Gavin. I've added a few more \"to do's\" on the list thanks to you guys. I also added seat belt anchors in the tunnel to the list.
So you ran a braided line through the tunnel on yours? Sounds much easier than trying to snake a hard line through there. The intermediate trans mount on mine is a must due to the Berg 5 anyways, so I think I have that covered.
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Although installing braided steel line is easy, its not permanent. It is still rubber on the inside, subject to deterioration. An easy alternative to steel hard line is aluminum tubing. Al tubing is part of the lightweight regime, and its easy to bend, making it easy to install in the tunnel in the stock location exiting from the left frame horn.
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But aluminum tubing is known to crack, especially after being bent. Not sure if the aluminum would be a safe alternative either.
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It depends on the heat treatment of the Al. If its -T6, it will be tough to bend, but I don't think you will find tubing in a -T6 treatment. You aren't going to be bending it very much.
Porsche 911s use Al tubing for the front to rear oil lines, and they are exposed.