AirSpeed VW Community Forums
Technical => Engine Tech Forum => Topic started by: CHEECH on August 31, 2004, 04:25:11 PM
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Hey all,
I finally get to start on my project ( now that the house purchasing thing is done :D :D :rockon: ).
I would like to know where to get started on my motor. I`m going to put together a 1914. I already have the case stripped down. What is the next step to take as far as having the block prepped for assembly?
Thanks
Shawn
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Have all the machining done on the case - and when it is done clean it, and then clean it a few more times. Blow EVERY passage out and really get in there to make sure no debris is left behind. A clean case is a must!
What all are you looking at putting in it?
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Hey James, I was hoping you were going to reply. I`m going to be building a manx type buggy something really light with loads of torque I really want to do wheelies in one of these buggies. Do you recomend any places in peticular for having the machining done and what type of machining do I need to have done?
I will have more ?`s about your motor combo since you are posting some great times.
Thanks
Shawn
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I find my power comes on at around 3500rpm - if your looking for low-end torque you'll need to stroke that baby. I am sure a wheel stand is possible with a small engine, it's all in the front end setup and how hard your willing to push it.
I had all my maching done through AVR in abbotsford as my engine guy is located in chilliwack. BUT I am sure Airspeed can get it done for you.
What have you already collected for the engine build and what are you thinkng for a tranny?
My motor still has better times in it (it better anyways) I am still dealing with jetting and such. According to the scales at mission my car weighs in at 1660lbs with me in it. So if you think every 100lbs is about .1 of a second and you are building a 1100lb (gestimate) manx type you will easily be in the 13's - throw on slicks and go even deeper.
According to guys in cali they have seen 12's in a 1914 N/A engine - dunno how but I guess it is possible.
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come to breaky on Saturday and I'll take you for a spin (weather and work permiting....)
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Forget Stroking it, I want to kick some ass with a small motor ( wee man syndrome I think they call it ) I Just have the case right now. I`m not quite sure about the tranny thing yet havnt started thinking that far ahead yet and yes slicks for sure! I will send my case to air speed for the machining then.
thanks much
I will keep you posted on the progress.
Shawn
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Hey all,
I finally get to start on my project ( now that the house purchasing thing is done :D :D :rockon: ).
I would like to know where to get started on my motor. I`m going to put together a 1914. I already have the case stripped down. What is the next step to take as far as having the block prepped for assembly?
Thanks
Shawn
sounds like this is a used case and not new,yes by sticking with a 69 mm crank you save alot of hassles on internal machine work,i take it the machine work required is boring for larger cylinders.
this is what i do on a case.first torque case and measure all crank bearing bores,then all cam bearin bores,split case measure dist drive case surfaces,and lifter bores.then there is the 2 most important measuremants , crankshaft centerline in relation to cylinder deck surface [each half can be differant]
and camshaft to crank centreline which is more important if you have the need for straight cut timing gears.
then if all this is good , you can carry on with case machine work,then you will have too recheck crankshaft centreline too deck surface again.
good luck,take it slow this is not a time to rush things
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I find my power comes on at around 3500rpm - if your looking for low-end torque you'll need to stroke that baby. I am sure a wheel stand is possible with a small engine, it's all in the front end setup and how hard your willing to push it.
I had all my maching done through AVR in abbotsford as my engine guy is located in chilliwack. BUT I am sure Airspeed can get it done for you.
What have you already collected for the engine build and what are you thinkng for a tranny?
My motor still has better times in it (it better anyways) I am still dealing with jetting and such. According to the scales at mission my car weighs in at 1660lbs with me in it. So if you think every 100lbs is about .1 of a second and you are building a 1100lb (gestimate) manx type you will easily be in the 13's - throw on slicks and go even deeper.
According to guys in cali they have seen 12's in a 1914 N/A engine - dunno how but I guess it is possible.
:o Wow,
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Thanks for the info Jim, BTW Sweet bug, It is a used case i`m using. Could you, if you dont mind, elaborate on these measuring steps a bit more for me. What measurements or tollerances should i look for? I`m going to have the case cut for 94`s. Considering I`m new to this and not quite set up for measuring these areas I was hoping that where ever I take the case to will measure these areas for me prior to machining. I hope.
Shawn
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ok ,since this is a used case there is some things we can assume or check easily yourself without tools but with common sence.first it has run before and if you realy look at the cam bearings and the crankshaft gear and camshaft gear for any sighns of wear you could expect camshaft to crank alignment too be ok,take a look at the old lifters and check for any sighns of heavy metal scuffing on all 8 of them and then look into the bores,try a new lifter in all the bores it should feel snug with no rock with the lifter half way out.same with the dist drive shaft it should slid in easy /rotate smooth and show no sighns of wear also check for slop when its installed.since you most likely have no means of measuring a inside dimension such as a main bearing bore .do this, look at the split bearing and see if it has even wear all around the contact surface,if it looks more worn or excessively pitted/flaky at the top and bottom edge or even the middle area thats from crank flex and we can assume some case pounding,align bore it then.as for case barrel deck height this can be corrected by getting the machine shop too lay one case flat and machine the barrle deck surface flat,then take the othe case and without moving the depth the cutter is set at take the same amount of that case=even deck height,when i got my case back from bow wow there was a differance of .008 on the left case half compared too the other.you will need to be exact what you want a machine shop too do.
-now i now this is not the correct way too start a engine project,i wanted you too see there is other ways of doing things,NEVER TRUST ANYONE BUT YOUSELF.when it comes to serious engine building the days of buying parts from the shelf and bolting it together are long gone,everone makes parts too there dimension and not to a stock vw dimension.
my advise is if you are doing a first time engine with mainly stock parts ,try the above case prep meathod,if you are spending a bit of money on this project ,pay someone too do it or make the investment in propper tools [they will be with you for ever] and tripple measure everthing.get a bentily manual about 80 % of info you need will be there.just remember when you start adding more power tolerances change.good luck and don't be discouraged .its great too do your own motor.there will be lots of help on site
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If you have a good used german case you'll probably find it ok , just check for wear as Jim said . If you are starting with a new case, Check or have everything checked before you have anything else done to it . Back when I first assembled my 1904 I did not check my new brazilian case . After machining I found out that the crank and cam bores were too far apart and no + size cam gears were taking up the huge back lash between the cam and crank gears . I ran it anyway and wore out a stock cam gear in about 500 miles . I then put steal strait cut's in and they have lasted 50k + miles but make a noisy clattering sound . I really wish I would have checked that case before I had the machine work done and I could still have returned it .
Oh and if your building a 1914, when you have the cylinder bores cut for the 94's , make sure when they reface the seating area for the barrels that they cut maybe about .030\" down . This will insure that you can get your deck hieght to at least .050\" or less . Hope this makes sence .
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Thanks for all the great info guys. I really cant wait to get into this. The case looks to be in good shape with no obvious signs of wear on the bearings when we removed them. Being that My fiance and I just purchased a house I have to keep this project as low buck as possible ;) ;) . Mind you all the internals will be new. As long as i keep the case dirty I could probably get away with telling her that \"I dont understand why it runs sooo good when it looks all dirty\". I hope to get the case to Airspeed to be sent out for machining by next weekend.
shawn
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Well I picked up my case, all looks good. Cale and I went to another oldtimer VW guy on the weekend and HOLY S#!T did he have some goodies, needless to say I`m going to buy a set of heads 40 x 35 welded and ported, dual valve springs also lurking on the back of the bench were a set of 48IDA`s :rockon:.OH YEAH its comming together sooner than I anticipated. The carbs have no manifolds or linkage but that is the least of my worries :D
Shawn