AirSpeed VW Community Forums
Technical => Engine Tech Forum => Topic started by: Stevie on June 29, 2004, 03:07:07 PM
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i just finished rebuilding a stock engine for my bug and was wondering
what the proper break-in procedure is.
on the engine i have removed the cooling flaps which are controled by the thermostat is that gonna change anything? the car isn't going to be driven throught the winter so i thought i wouldn't be to big of a deal..
thank you for any help
Steve
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remember oil is cheap. after the initial breakin,change the oil.run it for a couple of days,change it again. then again in a couple of weeks (with mileage of course) you want to get all of the assembly lube,rag lint that may or may not be inside,...out. this may be a bit overkill,but like i said ,, oil is cheaper than an engine !! just my 2 cents.
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I agree, I'm on my 3rd oil change in about 100 km's of driving since new.
Break in is hard to say, I took mine to the track - nothing like some good strong blasts to seat the rings :)
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I agree, I'm on my 3rd oil change in about 100 km's of driving since new.
Break in is hard to say, I took mine to the track - nothing like some good strong blasts to seat the rings :)
That is because the first oil change was involuntary.... :P
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DGLVK-Oiling down tracks everywhere!
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No, the second was as I pulled my engine on sunday - Mine's the car that doesn't leak remember!
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But what is the initial break in???
Should i just drive it? or should it sit in neutral at a certain rpm for so long, then a higher rpm for some time? this is my first engine build ever i need some advice.
and thanx for the oil thing i shall do that i was planning to do it at least once or twice withing the first week or so of driving.
thanx alot
Steve
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When we broke in my 2275 we let it idle at around 2500 RPM for 20 minutes.
Got up the next day and drained the oil and reset the valves. That was it.
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i let it idle at about 2500/3000 rpm for half-hour or so, then oil change, valves.
then i drove it to california. worked for me. :rockon:
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thanx for the replies, all i need to do know is tighten the flywheel
which is kinda hard to do yourself and then put the engine back in.
yipee
well thank you everyone
Steve
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you should also vary the rpm initially, 1500 - 2000-1500 -2500- 2000,you get the idea.don't forget the lifters need to pattern to the camshaft. they need the rpm to get them spinning( if like a v-8) run the engine up and down varying the time limit between rpm changes.also make sure the timing is close so you don't run it too lean.otherwise it'll get too hot.