AirSpeed VW Community Forums
Technical => Engine Tech Forum => Topic started by: 85fastlane on September 01, 2009, 10:55:23 PM
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I'm just starting on my first build. I've read over the Wilson manual several times and have a good understanding of every aspect I think. I'm pretty comfortable with it, and it's just a stock 1600 so nothing gets too complicated. I just might have a couple questions along the way. My first one is what oil pump to use. The case is an AS41 with a 211 (Bus) number on it. From everything I've read it would need to run a dish cam gear and the deeper oil pump in this case. The only reason I have confusion over this is that when I dissasembled the engine it had a flat cam gear in it. Do I need to pickup a cam with a dished gear and fit the later pump? I picked up the engine as a non-running spare, so I have no idea if the previously installed setup worked well or if it had problems. This will be for a T3 application when finished, not that it makes any difference for this question. Thanks in advance for your help!
Cheers,
Lane
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Ok, AVR helped me out with this one. Apparently there's an oil pump that is the shallower style to go with the flat cam gear, but also has the large 10 mm oil passages, kind of a half early, half late design. Next question, I'm not interested in throwing a ton of money at fancy new tools right now, what's the cheapest way to set up some sort of end play measuring tool?
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use a paper clip with a 3.24" long pc of thread. Then take that to princess auto and buy the damn tool then eat the clip and thread :)..... hope that helps dood O0
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You're a peach
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...what's the cheapest way to set up some sort of end play measuring tool?
dial indicator with a magnetic base.
or....
http://www.jbugs.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=5760&Category_Code=Tools
(maybe AVR has one of the above mentioned items).
or you could probably make something like the above with some bolts, nuts & steel.
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I made a similar tool using only a short length of threaded rod and some big washers and nuts. Adjust it so that the washers are almost right on the flywheel, then use feeler gauges.
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Thanks for the help guys, things are going well. Case is all buttoned up and flywheel on. I'll put on the pistons and pots tomorrow, hopefully have my heads finished at the machine shop, should have the engine back in the car Saturday. Any tips on first start up besides cranking without ignition for oil pressure. Follow the Wilson? 20 minute at 2000 rpm idle, then go for a drive for 20 or 40 miles accelerating and slowing constantly? Change oil, adjust valves at that point, and then good to go?
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Finally back at it after a tumultuous couple of weeks. I picked up my heads today from FVE&M and wow, they look incredible, better than I ever thought they could look. So I might bolt them on tonight. Just had a question. I'm going to use a set of swivel foot, ball type adjuster rockers that I had. What lash do you set these at with OE pushrods?
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With Al pushrods you set the lash to the stock spec. 0.15mm
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I thought I heard at some point that with the swivels they didn't need lash, they could be set to soft 0? Can anyone clarify? Does it matter that I switched up rockers?
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Not with OE pushrods, ~0 is only for chromoly pr's. Lifters don't make a difference.
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Gotcha, thanks much! We'll see once it's all together what the rocker geometry looks like. A mockup of it looks not bad, but we'll see when it's all in place.
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Oh how very frustrating. Tonight I went to bolt on the heads, and just as I was torquing on the very last head stud I noticed it was just pulling straight out of the case. It was holding a snug hand tight but as soon as I gave it the initial 15 ft/lbs it let go. So heads are coming off, piston and cylinders are coming back off. I'm also assuming there is no way to tap it without splitting the case again? I'm sure you'd get all kinds of nasty filings inside. This has 10mm studs, no savers. I guess I'm tearing it completely apart and resending the case to the machine shop for case savers now? Guess I shoulda went for it from the beginning. If there's any quicker, less painful way to fix this please let me know! :-[
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DOOD!!!!!!!!! Did you have beer?????
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I know I know, next time through assembling I'll make sure there is a steady supply of beer so that everything goes smoothly! Oh well, this time I guess I can really take my time, maybe do a couple things I skipped over last time, since I think I'll be parking it now for the winter.
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There is such a thing as a self tapping stud in the long length for the bottom studs and medium length for the top outers. It's not ideal but in this situation will get you on your way. I have used them before and properly installed will outlast the origionals.
Gary.
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Thanks for the tip. Tonight it finally came together after a long absence. With Cheech's extra hands for install we had her running in no time. No exhaust yet though, so a little loud for driving, but so so very stoked to hear my first build fire up and run smooth. Very cool! Pics soon, maybe video too!
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Thanks for the info. Ill look you up when I get to that point of the build.
Anyone else with ideas/comments?
Jake
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5000 miles and counting. Needs carbs rebuilt now though.