AirSpeed VW Community Forums
Technical => Engine Tech Forum => Topic started by: Chris W on November 18, 2008, 05:37:20 PM
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I am redoing my fuel lines and thinking about cleaning it up and trying to improve what was there. I have 2 of the plastic filters both after the T too the carburetors is the necessary or should I just run one before the fuel pump? Any recommendations on filters?
Thanks
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I don't use any filters.
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Just the tank screen?
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For about 15-18 years, no.
Since my car is a 75, (FI = external filter) it did not come with a screen at the tank, so I never used one. A few years ago when I had the tank out for some reason I can't remember, I installed one just because I had it.
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I agree - those plastic fuel filters are a leak waiting to happen imo - if you are wanting a filter go with one that you can open up and inspect and is reusable. This is the one I have used in the past with good results...
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=261
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That's nice, but I am running stock line with no fittings.
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I use a $7 filter that has a metal can and filters to 8 microns.
it's application is for a Toro lawn tractor.... don't laugh, it works just fine.
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If anyone is using those 99
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I agree it does not make sense to use a ten cent filter on a $$$$ engine. I will check out the tractor store see what they have.
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At our local IHRA track, we cannot pass the tech inspection with a plastic fuel filter...
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I am going to redo all the lines and then see how the tank looks and think about a filter up front.
Here is the redo of the lines that were just flopped in the engine compartment.
Now as far as size line goes. I was going to do 5mm from the pump to the T and then 7mm to the carbs. Any difference in running 7mm on everything? The 5mm is a stretch on the brass T I have.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh6.ggpht.com%2F_WfCoy6mmPwA%2FSSb9yh4NWkI%2FAAAAAAAAEos%2F9aavLaGQCe4%2Fs720%2FIMG_9599.JPG&hash=458bc0fc08c3055822187e0dba3fc0f967452e18)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh6.ggpht.com%2F_WfCoy6mmPwA%2FSSb9tgb1CmI%2FAAAAAAAAEoo%2FU91DKMjt3Lc%2Fs720%2FIMG_9597.JPG&hash=f5e0c12e54b36cdd25956967c5fc2bc276c4888b)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh5.ggpht.com%2F_WfCoy6mmPwA%2FSSb7RmpQ5II%2FAAAAAAAAEn4%2FQ4ldgsK74y4%2Fs720%2FIMG_9548.JPG&hash=7033e0bc577dd2fd6db50139eaab1512202c06c6)
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Better would be to go to your local auto parts store and get some brake hard lines. Also get a brass Tee. Then use that instead of all that loose rubber hose. Use short pieces of rubber hose only to couple the ends to the pump and carb.
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I thought about that, but my thought was that you will have more joints/more places to leak from......
I have a brass barbed T already, are you saying use a threaded one or barbed one?
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Metal lines are much more robust than rubber hose. Use brake lines and the flared ends seal perfectly. The only hose pieces you would have is one short one at each carb connecting the hard line to the carb inlet, and 2 hose pieces at the pump. Use clamps to secure the hard line to the forward part of the shroud where you don't see it.
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I am going to redo all the lines and then see how the tank looks and think about a filter up front.
Here is the redo of the lines that were just flopped in the engine compartment.
Now as far as size line goes. I was going to do 5mm from the pump to the T and then 7mm to the carbs. Any difference in running 7mm on everything? The 5mm is a stretch on the brass T I have.
Chris,
I used .250"OD/.196"ID stainless tubing and it works just fine.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.glenn-ring.com%2Fengine%2Fimages%2F156_5694.jpg&hash=e9704a11399f24a5d337309694f49ccc6ec6e12c)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.glenn-ring.com%2Fengine%2Fimages%2F156_5696.jpg&hash=3bcb577ce12686db867bc3f920fb18c9e6419d62)
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That looks like very COOL work. Thanks for the pictures.
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I picked up some 3/16 brake line and mocked it up. I need to go 1/4 like what Glenn used so the 7mm fuel line fits on it better, but this is the basic idea I have so far.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh6.ggpht.com%2F_WfCoy6mmPwA%2FSSomrGA38wI%2FAAAAAAAAEpk%2Fnue3xNC3gaA%2Fs720%2FIMG_9612.JPG&hash=140df4033d447b5ab5246ca181280c733f34ea11)
Thanks for the help!
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That's the right idea.
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You'll want to keep the hardline close to the shroud. Otherwise it will make getting the engine in harder and access to the mounting bolts difficult
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I just need to make up one more line.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh5.ggpht.com%2F_WfCoy6mmPwA%2FSSt2zJPF2FI%2FAAAAAAAAEqk%2FbFIwt_a24gI%2Fs800%2FIMG_9639.JPG&hash=8576165d12464f451f39a68140c7851e132387bc)
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does the hardline go through the hose at the bend by the oil cooler tin? or just the hose?
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It's just a spot of soft hose over the hardline to keep it from rattling.
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nice!
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I just need to make up one more line.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh5.ggpht.com%2F_WfCoy6mmPwA%2FSSt2zJPF2FI%2FAAAAAAAAEqk%2FbFIwt_a24gI%2Fs800%2FIMG_9639.JPG&hash=8576165d12464f451f39a68140c7851e132387bc)
f@#kin eh, chris!!! looks souper sano!!!! 8)
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Sanitary Chris! Here's what I did for mine:
3/8" ss tube and tube nuts/sleeves, all AN/JIC fittings.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi8.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa6%2FHotrodvw%2FIMG_1688.jpg&hash=3ff9bd1949a6f2cc9695e5785f6a55b296fe2f68)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi8.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa6%2FHotrodvw%2FIMG_1691.jpg&hash=63ced0b53aba1d175ef0b0237019bca4788ddfbf)
Filter:
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi8.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa6%2FHotrodvw%2FIMG_1828.jpg&hash=cc2178d8406c3f5fde9013dfbf2635983e0445a3)