Author Topic: Wheel Hop - How Not To Break Stuff :)  (Read 5930 times)

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Offline James Buchan

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Wheel Hop - How Not To Break Stuff :)
« on: July 10, 2003, 06:41:20 PM »
I'm not wanting to pull a Kevin and bend the crap outta my horns so I've started to design my own brace system.
My question is : Some braces have a tensioning bar between the two shock mounts, is this for cornering strictly or does this help tighten it up more? Also would having adjustability for pre loading be benificial?

Offline AlanU

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Wheel Hop - How Not To Break Stuff :)
« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2003, 09:02:08 PM »
Quote
Some braces have a tensioning bar between the two shock mounts, is this for cornering strictly or does this help tighten it up more? Also would having adjustability for pre loading be benificial?
Hey James,  I took the simple approach and used a solid intermediate mount (welded in), solid engine mounts and a traction bar.   I used the stock german nose mount. So  basically there is 4 points in total.  I still like the \"primitive\" approach so with a simple traction bar with slight preload I'll be assured that I wont be bending my frame horns and hopefully eliminate all wheel hop. Hard to do the real test with my M&H's without an engine  :(  


If your building your own  \"European design\" traction bar system instead of the primitive type traction bar system alot of us use in the lower mainland. You should tie in both your shock mounts for that triangular configuration for strength. You may save some weight with your \"custom\" traction system but I still prefer the old school traction bar supporting the overhang of the engine. But nonetheless yours will work well too.

I've seen the german made systems with hiem joints and it looked kick ass but as far as $$$ goes I couldn't justify. The one I looked at had the provisions for adjustment for preload. As Bruce T exactly for details I cant remember its been a while since I looked at it. I wanted something extremely simple since it seemed like such a task converting a bone stock 65 to what I have now. So much work and fully insured but no engine.  What a year :angry:  

Offline James Buchan

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Wheel Hop - How Not To Break Stuff :)
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2003, 09:47:33 PM »
Hiem joints and all that are no problem for me to aquire at work, I am thinking of making it from 4130, it shouldnt add all that much weight I would think. I will also make it adjustable as well from three points (between shocks and and then the two vertical supports) I am thinking it will look alot like the high dollar systems (polished and tig welded) being sold but won't cost me a dime, just my time. I'm going to have one of the engineers here draw it up in ACAD for me and go from there. I'll let you know the progress and if it works out like I think it should.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2003, 09:48:48 PM by James Buchan »

Offline Geoff

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Wheel Hop - How Not To Break Stuff :)
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2003, 10:03:28 PM »
Hmmm..... the phrase \"aquire at work\" makes ya think  :unsure:  

Billyisgr8

Wheel Hop - How Not To Break Stuff :)
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2003, 10:24:24 PM »
James it was the fan you welded for me that bent the frame horns.


HAHAHa

Anyway my approach to fix the problem was an easy one, you should look at mine, it is really cheap, as in less than $5.00 in metal and $1.00 for bolts.
And to preload the frame horns you just put in a different spacer between the mounting plate and the body.  It is welded to the rear engine/tranny mount so I can take it to another car too.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/index.m...photo+80670.jpg

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/index.m...photo+80672.jpg

Kevin

Offline James Buchan

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Wheel Hop - How Not To Break Stuff :)
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2003, 10:43:00 PM »
Acquire as in find in the scap bin :)

Ya I would like to see yours kevin, but I am going for the \"pretty\" look so I will have to spend some time on design.