AirSpeed VW Community Forums
Project Forums => ASF Member Projects => Topic started by: s3racing on January 17, 2014, 03:24:50 AM
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Pictures are coming on Saturday.
Here's the run down
1975 std Beetle bought it when I was 16. Drove it for about 2 years (winters in the Puddle were cold)
Had engine problems tire it down for a engine rebuild and then go more ideas.
Worked on it of and on until I was 25 and then with 25 got married
Stored the car and moved to Switzerland car stayed in W.L. That was 2003. 2005 it went into a body shop when I was over for a visit. Did div. rust repairs.
2 years later my brother moved it to his house on the coast.
Now my brother is moving and doesn't want to move the car again in it current state. So it's time I move it to where I am. Problem is it would cost me a good 5 grand in its current state or, less than half that if it's moving. So my conclusion is to have pan body and roll work done. So I can ship it the cheaper way and invest the rest of my money on the car.
Either I'll have it completely done there. And come pick it up with the family. Or we'll ship it over when it's ready for that.
I'll post pics as it's getting built.
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Opps ;-) I just noticed i turned my intro into a build thread of my Car lol just saw that today.
http://www.airspeedparts.com/forums/index.php?topic=649.0;topicseen
If anyones is interested in what happened up until today :-) the link is above from now I guess I'll continue the updates where they should be. Just included that link so one can see the whole build progress.
Or is there a way to move that thread to here?
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Has anyone tried mounting there Engine oil cooler up front in the Fenders under the headlights? I know right there are the Bumper mounts but mine are gone so I was wondering if it might be an idea to mount the coolers there like they did in some 911's. I was thinking maybe adding some Ducts or vents where the bumper mount used to be to add air flow to them. Would that be a doable idea?
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I haven't seen that done. I've seen in front of the front apron, but most guys are still mounting the coolers out back and either ducting to them (similar to what I've done) or ducting through the quarter panel.
-Dave
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Geoff is hard at work on the Pan stiffening. Because I decided a Roll Cage would be unsuited for the planed use. Geoff came up with a really cool solution to add some roll Stiffness to the Chassis and increase the side impact stability of the frame.
When the pan is back on its right side. Geoff will work on the pedal set up, seat mounts, front frame head bracing and upper beam supports, and then the rear suspension bracing / stiffening. Lots of work still to do before Russ can spray it with powder and bake it :-).
Excited to see how far this week will take us.
Pictures to be posted at the end of the week
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I'll add some pictures of the work from last week later. Here a quick up date on what we decided to do with oil cooling and Fuel system.
Decide that for the time being we'll go without a dry sump my thermostat will be under the driver side passenger seat and filter as it looks mounted on the rear Torsion housing. That should help keep our options open for adding a dry sump if needed at a later date. We are running dual 48pass oil coolers up front mounted between the firewall and beam. And running -8 SS braided hose with AN fittings. And senders just after the Engine hook up and before the return to the engine. I'm thinking I'll install a switch so I can select the temp sender that I want to check. Not sure if a bypass is needed if I'm not running a dry sump.
For Fuel I'm leaning to the Bosch 044 and running 2 filters a pre filter and a filter after the regulator before the fuel rails on the engine. Hoses again are -6 SS Braided with AN fittings return and supply. Pre filter, Pump and Reg. Up front with a sender for pressure gauge.
The Wilwood pedals have arrived :-) and have all the right master with remote reservoirs as well:-)
My Dad just got the Divers seat a Sparco R100 in Black, that Geoff should have in his shop on Tuesday.
Tons of little details but Wow it's going along great!!
Clearing some Budget details and hopefully giving Geoff the ok to go ahead on the body mid next week.
Wish I was there to help but hay it's finally moving forwards.
Oh chassis colour we changed to Gloss Black with all Bolt on Parts in Fire Engine Red. To bring in some contrast.
Still looking for a good body shop right now to take over filler, prime, Paint and Clear.
Glad for any tips
Cheers René
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Pictures here are all work in progress so nothing finished yet. But gives you a rough idea of what Geoff is doing here. Looking great in my eyes.
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Shift Linkage Cover
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The empty tunnel and what came all out :-)
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Front Beam Bracing
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Seeing how the pedals will fit. Some mods to come in this area to get some more room.
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Oil Cooler set up
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Oil Lines
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Oil cooler
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Sweet :-)
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Ducting / Bracing
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Oil Filter might stay here might not depends on Rear bracing and Sway bar.
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wow! loads of work getting done on this one! good luck and have fun, it sounds like it'll be a wild ride!
question...what's the origin of the name "cuttie"?
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Silas,
Lol that's a good question. It should say Cutie typo on my part :-),
Back when I bought my Bug in 94 My girlfriend in 95 called my car that all the time and it kind of stuck. Since then I've always referred to her as Cutie. Never really found anything else to fit. But when she's done the name won't really suit her anymore lol.
Guess it's time for a Name change :-)
I just gave my kids the chore of coming up with a name for Her. Or might just leave it as is. Lol
My Mustang we Named Lady :-) no clue where I come up with these names. :-)
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I'm running VDO gauges in my dash Cockpit line white face and some of the smaller gauges that aren't available in the white face in the black face series.
My question for the speedo can I use the stock speedo sensor / signal in my 915/61 for the gauge or would it be better to go with the gps sender that you can get from VDO with auto calibration? Has anyone used these?
I'd like to do something for my car as well was thinking that I could put my dash together using a fiberglass cover and modifying it. Adding a thin layer of padding and then stretching leather over it with a wood grain gauge / switch panel. And start pre mounting the gauges etc.
Frustrating to watch all the cool progress and not really having anything to do with it other than the concept.
René
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The rear suspension Bracing again Geoff did an awesome job!! n these pictures you don't see the removable braces that go down to the rear transmission Mounts. Those will still be added are already under construction.
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A couple more detail shots of the Rear bracing.
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the oil filter mount was relocated to the rear bracing. a couple of the fittings will be changed out to angled ones instead of straight fittings.
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More from the Filter mounting and oil lines
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Test fitting of the rear wheels . in a previous picture you see the marked bump stop that Geoff clearance a bit so we don't have any issues here. When the Body is on we can determine how wide We need to go with the fender flares. for the front and Rear. looks like 1 - 2". might swap the fenders out as well to an earlier style. not sure about that though. What is clear is that i want to keep the original signals and tail lights. Smoked and trim in Gloss black or body color.
Something I need to still talk to Geoff about is Batterie Mounting and location. If it would be an idea to add a Bracket now before Its powder coated. I was thinking of using a Optima Yellow top similar to the group 42 in size. Any positive or Negative experiences with them??
Later after we have the Wheels re-finished from Nu-brite. I'll change the old stock rubber from the Boxster wheels to 245/40r17's for the rear and 215/45r17 up front. Still Undecided on the Tires though thinking Bridgestone RE760's, Kuhmo's or maybe Dunlop's. not really relevant yet. as I'll do the wheels and tires shortly before the car is done not that the new tires get damaged sitting stored until I get to dropping the Engine in.
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I'm loving working on this project. Rene is all about the top notch parts and detal. Hopefully Russ will have it in a color soon!
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wow just cranking right along
looks amazing
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Thanks Russ, Geoff is making awesome progress
http://www.dakotadigital.com/PDF/VHX-1100.PDF
Has anyone used a similar gauge cluster? This one is from Dakota Digital
6" * 10.75"
Cutout = 5.5" * 10.25" thinking that this might be a suitable alternative for the main gauge cluster. And then adding a couple more for oil temp and Trany temp. Etc.
Just not sure if I can squeeze it in the dash and if it will be visible enough after the steering wheel is mounted. Any ideas?
Otherwise I'll probably stick with Autometer or VDO
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thanks for the info on the name change...that's funny!
keep up the good work rene & geoff & all those involved.
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Lesson learned 18 years after the fact. Don't go for the Cheaper parts Brazilian is not = to oe quality.
Money saved then is now money spent making it right. arg.
Choices from my teenage years biting me in the butt and Costing Geoff time making it right.
Whats the old saying Hind sight is 20/20.
Lucky Geoff is so inventive in finding solutions. Thanks Geoff
Silas,
I think we all have one or two funny stories involving our Cars lol. I Gave my kids the job of coming up with a new name but they are quite young and naming it after their favourite cartoon characters is not the best idea lol. My Son said I should call it Thomas the train lol, our youngest son piped up there after (he is 2.5) with a train honking noise. And my Daughter what did she say again I think she wanted to name it after a school friend lol. With those results I think the name is staying as is :-)
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I'm loving this project! A beetle with turn, stop and go! Should be a ton of fun to drive! What are the plans with the engine? I may have missed that! Keep it up Geoff!
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I gotta keep it tame. But sneaky :-)
The Strassenverkehrsamt in Winterthur Switzerland the most they say your allowed to do in a beetle is 150bhp to the ground. I have however seen 210bhp get passed. So the plan is an all new Alu. Engine block built to NA 2332cc with efi. And to have two switchable engine maps done. One for the test and one for real life:-) goal ist 200+ bhp in normal setting and in detuned mode 150bhp what I'll add probably is a switchable rev. Limiter. So we can really keep the test Bhp in its set level.
A Subi swap was a option a long time ago but I opted that out because I think that would make things even more of a challenge. And Hoping we can find a few loop holes in the system to get it through. If it had been done 10 years ago then it would have been easy to pass and bring in as then it only has a less strict test to pass as it would then count as Zugelgut as I understand it. I'm still hoping I can bring it in that way somehow.
:-) I'm really excited about the build Geoff Is doing a killer Job!! Thanks for the interest Stephan.
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Geoff made a suggestion yesterday so now something new is brewing on the project front
:-)
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Bradley GT German look
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Was down to see the project this past weekend. Geoff is doing some seriously cool stuff. Definitely making me cross out a few pages in my notebook, and creating a big challenge for my GL build.
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Lol Geoff somehow I think I missed that part :-)
Must have been the long distance phone connection playing tricks on me :-)
How ever if they made a 904 kit that fit on the irs beetle pan then I'd be really tempted. But I think they only have them that come with a finished tube chassis.
Even then I don't think I'd be up to such a dramatic change of plans:-)
I like the way it's coming together thinking it's better to stick to the basic plan now till its finished :-)
Adjustments and tweaks are normal though with a project like this. Totally open to suggestions.
Thanks for the interest and compliments on the build guys.
Hoping I can escape work for a month or so next year and meet you all once in person at a swap meet or cruise night. By then we should've finished my car or at the very least be on the home stretch.
Cheers René
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looks amazing in person! ;)
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Solving the sway bar problem, new brackets to attach the ends to the Spring plates are being made up.
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Adjustable Custom Down bars :-)
I got a virtual tour of my Car yesterday :-) FaceTime connection was way better than long distance phone connection. Was cool to see what is all happening. And the Steering Wheel wall :-)
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thermostat and Batterie Box all finished up and in place.
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Oil lines
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And the big Secret well not to everyone :-) as a few have seen the car in the mean time since the Suggestion from Geoff and ok from me to add a R&P to the Plans. looking good. New complete 911 turbo tie rod assemblies are on the way to finish that part up. Its a 914 R&P that Geoff found with his many connections and talked over with a few that have done similar conversions. Was a great idea Geoff and rounds up the whole project. I'm looking forward to see what happens with the Body but in the mean time there are quite a few small details to still wrap up. And a parts collection that still needs to get to Geoff as soon as its complete.
Looks like we found the right guy for the paint job as well. :-) Now I just hope I pick out a somewhat original Colour not that its the same as a dozen other cars.
Is PPG 46169 - Jaguar Racing Green with a tint of Metallic a popular Colour for Beetles - with some Gloss Black trim pieces and Carbon fibre front spoiler / splitter. Still not sure how to do the later. found a few versions but none really jump at me as what i want to do with this car.
Any Ideas
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Here is what i've found so far. I'm not really running bumpers at the most a small thin bar up front and rear just to add a little protection. or just the splitter with spoiler. one is a custom car craft version the other the Grey bug a Remmel Carbon Fibre spoiler. I like that one the best just not sure how it will look without a bumper and the Custom Car Craft moulds up be the Fender ends nicer. has a cleaner finish. But I think makes the car look like a snow-plower. Not sure if a different colour Combo would help that. The Dark Green and the Spoiler in Gloss Black or Carbon Fibre. tough one.
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I'm really loving this thread! Nice work Geoff!
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Decided to not add a dry sump for the time being. The oil lines are all close and I have room to add one at a later date. So our options to add later are still open. But out of cost reasons we'll keep it on the back burner. Priority is to get it rolling on its own wheels and if possible into paint and back together looking like a car again. When we build the engine and say it is needed or find after a year or so of use that it's a good idea then we can always add it then.
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944 views
I had to make a note of that lol. As half the Brake set up is off a 944 :-) all 4 hubs and discs rear disc's with the e brake assembly lol
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Just a small update this time hydraulic clutch slave upgrade :-)
This is the only part of the kit that we used. So if anyone is interested in the clutch master with weld on bracket drop me a pm.
Geoff added a side plate to protect the set up in case of bottoming out. Great idea Geoff !!
I believe we are now near the point where we need to start on the body of the car before we can go on to powder coating of the pan Etc.
Also got a killer deal on an Accusump from Josh
So that's on its way over so we can find a hiding place for it :-) to keep that 2332 efi engine running for a long time.
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A Nasty surprise!!
The years have not been kind to my Car while in storage :-(
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rusty
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:-( mor rusty
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Big question is what to do from here spend time and money to fix it or Try find a good Downer or other options use a 2 + 2 Manx Body. Arg.
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though the Manx is less of an option. Because of Rain :-)
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Any thoughts out there is it worth it to try and fix it?
Big thing for me it would involve considerably more time for Geoff.
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OK last of the rusty pictures
Hopefully no one has night mares because of them
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I say make geoff fix it......looks like a blast to me! Haha JK deep 6 that shell, bet you could find a mint late model body for 100x cheaper than what I would take to fix that pile!
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Ok we are saving her original body. It was a real fight between sentimental attachment and the pocket book. But decided to save another bug from the crusher and not just the vin tags.
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Ok we are saving her original body. It was a real fight between sentimental attachment and the pocket book. But decided to save another big from the crusher and not just the vin tags.
good job! have at 'er and keep us posted!
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Seats well ok one seat but mounts for driver and passenger are in :-)
I'm happy with my choice of seats
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ok here the Sparco R100
Passengers seat "my Wife's seat" the most important seat. Happy Wife Happy Life!! :-)
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Just had to add this cool picture
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Hey Geoff, you got the front tires on backwards!
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:-) observant eye Bruce!! The tires on there right now are just for trial fit and storage, they don't have any usable tread left on them. So when we have them back from Neu-Brite for refinishing and fresh rubber then we'll pay attention to the tread direction on mounting. But thanks Bruce
Always a keen eye for detail Sir.
Cheers Rene
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Its been a while so I thought I'd post a few update pictures.
Here the first bunch shows more rusty we found when opening a old repair panel that wasn't installed properly. This resulted in the obvious choice that we had to replace the passenger side Heater channel.
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Here is the roughed in rear inspection opening. Another great solution / Idea from Geoff
And a huge thanks to Jerry aka Westy69 for making it possible
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More roughed in repairs
- small metal patches in the front wheel well area
- Repair panels in engine bay
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the last few pictures for today
- rear crescent vent block offs
- rear decklid vents or air inlets for the cooling fan.
Its coming along nicely!! Very happy with the results so far other than all that nasty rust that we found. But none of us saw that coming when we started This project.
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The Pan is in Russ's hands for powder coating and the body soon to make its way to Don Atkinson for Primer. From there a short break in the project front until a few details are taken care of on my side. Then on to trany rebuild, engine assembly ordering fenders that fit etc.
Looking forward to seeing it come together. We've come a long time no way so far.
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The Pan is in Russ's hands for powder coating and the body soon to make its way to Don Atkinson for Primer. From there a short break in the project front until a few details are taken care of on my side. Then on to trany rebuild, engine assembly ordering fenders that fit etc.
Looking forward to seeing it come together. We've come a long time no way so far.
I sent it out for a light reblast and should get it back shortly
I will have it all ready to go next week for you sometime:)
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:-) looking forward to seeing how the color combo turns out :-)
Another mile stone on this project
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Thanks Russ Killer job with the Powder looks great. Getting excited to seeing it together
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And the Jewels to crown the beauty. Tones of work from Geoff stuck into this car. :-) Looks great now to put the puzzles together.
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turned out great, I'm sure Geoff will have this rolling in no time
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Wiring Questions
I'm considering converting a H4 Halo headlight kit to HID headlights. Has anyone done the conversion before or are these more of an irritation to other drivers than a improvement in lighting?
Next question is Performa Braid Wire loom I'm re wiring my entire car have a kit ordered up but doesn't come with loom. The smaller sizes ⅛, ¼ and ½ are all in roles of 20feet so more than enough anyways. just wondering if i need for the main harness a 1" or ¾" and if 10 feet will be enough for the job. Stereo signal, and speaker cable will be run separate anyways and for the amp i'll add a 8AWG power wire run separately but next to the main bundle. So just need to fit the factory wire into it. Any idea's or pointers.
Thanks Rene
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Another question i'm putting out there.
On this pictured car are ¼ panel air ducts that duct fresh air into the engine bay. Are these a practical addition to a car that will be pushing roughly 200 HP or not really needed for what I'm doing. Over kill? Or would a simple Decklid lift off kit do the same Job?
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I'm considering converting a H4 Halo headlight kit to HID headlights.
I think HID technology is about to become obsolete. LED headlights are here.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1801829
I told a friend locally about these headlights and he said he was going to order a pair right away, so I will have a chance to see them in person. We'll also get a true unbiased opinion whether they are brighter/better. It will be a few weeks before they are installed.
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Cool let me know Bruce thanks, I'm in no rush to order them yet. Thanks for the heads up.
Rene
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Can anyone confirm that
My math is good. I'm planing the system to run on mainly e85 fuels thats why I'm calculating with an equivalent HP of 400 as e85 needs more fuel for the same HP
My Math
230hp x 1.75 = 400HP x 0.6 BSFC = 240lbs/h = 152 liters per hour. And my pump now does 155 l/h which does 244 lbs/h / 4 gives us a injector size of 60lbs/h.
I used a relatively high BSFC factor for gas it would normally be 0.5 for e85 it would be 0.7 but we compensated already for that with the calculated 400HP so I didn't want to over compensate everywhere.
Thanks for any pointers
Cheers Rene
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Fancy red Calipers all around. Great idea Geoff
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Got some update pictures from Geoff here goes
Rebuilt 944 drive axles
And powder coated trany crossmembers
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Lots of stainless hardware :-)
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The arrival pictures at Don's shop before the prep work and primer
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More before pictures
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Fuel filler inner housing removal and start of some prep work
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Prep work getting all the little details just right
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Under dash area
And panel prep
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Panel prep
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And into the grey :-) appoxi primer late at night lol great Jib Don
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More primer pictures
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I think it's coming along just nicely
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Back into storage waiting for engine, tray and Paint all arriving or starting end of November. I hope :-)
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Here a couple shots of the Pedal cluster and the Remote Reservoirs. You also can see the R&P that Geoff made into real trick installation.
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Grrrr I think it looks nice and aggressive, and our fancy empty engine bay. Waiting Pat said end of Nov. it will be ready to ship
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And a couple side shots
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Totally happy with how these wheels turned out.
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wow looking great
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looks fantastic, can't wait to see it on the road!
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Thanks Guys!! Everyone's help was and is really appreciated. I'm Looking forward to be able to spend a few hours working on it finally in the summer.
It Will be great to drive it once again been almost 20 years since its been on the road last.
Cheers Rene
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looking good rene! nice to see it coming together!!
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Just want to take a quick min to say a big thank you to Dave Hord for going out of his way and dropping off a parts return for me. And countless bits of advice here along the way Thanks Dave
A big thanks to Rob Frose and the AVR guys for your help, patience, and great service
Everyone here on the forum for your countless tips pointers and encouragement on this project we're over the halfway marker I think for a while now already lol
Jerry aka "Westy69" and Josh for more than fair deals on some parts and quick shipping you guys rock!!
Russ thanks the powder looks awesome !! (No Christmas tree effect :-) ) and nothing to do with snow lol
I know I'm probably missing someone if so I'm sorry know that your help is and was either way greatly appreciated!!
Extra huge thanks to Geoff for doing all the main grunt work on this build so far.
Last but not least Don Atkinson for his eye for detail - your next in line for a few hours of paint work on this baby :-) !! Looking forward to see it.
Thanks again
Ren
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Can anyone explain to me or point me in the right direction on how to delete the front hood handle so I just have the release inside my car? I've seen it on many cars but can't seem to find any info on how to go about it. Or if it's even a good idea for my build.
If it's a simple list w cost mod then I'll probably add it to my list of to do's
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looking great can't wait to see it when done
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Can anyone explain to me or point me in the right direction on how to delete the front hood handle so I just have the release inside my car? I've seen it on many cars but can't seem to find any info on how to go about it. Or if it's even a good idea for my build.
If it's a simple list w cost mod then I'll probably add it to my list of to do's
Weld two studs in place of the holes for the hood handle, and now you can use nuts to hold the lock pin and plate to the hood. HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommended you setup and emergency release cable out the side of the apron into the fender area, in case your stock cable breaks. Also note that as you're setting the pin up to lock and unlock properly, you'll probably need to access through the spare tire hole multiple times to remove the whole assembly from the hood when you line it up wrong. It's a real PIA to get adjusted correctly to work as intended, but would be no different if the handle was on the hood.
-Dave
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Cool Thanks Dave!!
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This probably sounds like a crazy question.
Ok here it goes anyways.
I tried emailing and calling Le Carra no one there is getting back to me.
As you can see i have this steering wheel, I got it back when i was 17 for christmas for my bug.
But now i have a 1973 914 steering column in my car which apparently won't fit my hub adaptor. the one i need according to Le Carra's website is Nr. 12402 but what i find quite strange is its the same one that fits a lot of Ford Cars and Trucks in that same period. Could this even have a chance of being right??
thanks for amy of your experiences and help
Cheers Rene
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If anyone else runs into this problem. Here is the update about my steering wheel issue. Part Number 12402 from Le Carra does not fit the Porsche 914 nor does the updated polished version 22402. Thats what their catalog lists for it and they have not up until now given me an explanation. I was able to return it back to Summit Racing they were really good about it but I can't find a fitting direct adaptor. the only other option would be to get a Momo hub adapter (which I Did) and a fitting MoMo wheel or other that has the same 6 bolt pattern (Which I did) or Le Carra also lists an adapter from the MoMo Hub to their steering Wheels. a route I didn't end up going.
So with that I now am a proud owner of a nice fancy Leather steering wheel that does not fit.
I'll list it for sale in the summer when I can bring it with me to Canada.
I ended up ordering a OMP steering Wheel which I thought suited the car better now.
To give a short Update. The Trany is now back together and soon on its way to Geoff. And I hope to have an update come Monday on what its looking like with my Engine build. I expect that my Car can go for Paint some time end of this month beginning of Feb.
I have in the mean time done some work here and made door templates so i can start building the new door panels and rear 1/4 panels with a matching center console. Finally something I can start to do :-)
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Oh here is a question that i forgot to ask like a dozen times now. Engine firewall tin like CB's stainless 3 piece kit etc. do they make any sense or are they more cosmetic coverup than anything else. Can anyone give me a straight forward answer. Added weight and wasted money or a good idea.
Thanks
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I would think the original was designed to protect someone or something in the luggage area, so dissipate heat, and deaden sound? The chrome one probably does neither, just more cosmetic if you want that look?
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If anyone else runs into this problem. Here is the update about my steering wheel issue. Part Number 12402 from Le Carra does not fit the Porsche 914 nor does the updated polished version 22402. Thats what their catalog lists for it and they have not up until now given me an explanation. I was able to return it back to Summit Racing they were really good about it but I can't find a fitting direct adaptor. the only other option would be to get a Momo hub adapter (which I Did) and a fitting MoMo wheel or other that has the same 6 bolt pattern (Which I did) or Le Carra also lists an adapter from the MoMo Hub to their steering Wheels. a route I didn't end up going.
So with that I now am a proud owner of a nice fancy Leather steering wheel that does not fit.
I'll list it for sale in the summer when I can bring it with me to Canada.
I ended up ordering a OMP steering Wheel which I thought suited the car better now.
can you buy a hub that fits the splines?
I would think if you can fit the splines the rest you can make work with the use of a machine shop
anything can be made to work it's just a matter of how much you want to play with it
To give a short Update. The Trany is now back together and soon on its way to Geoff. And I hope to have an update come Monday on what its looking like with my Engine build. I expect that my Car can go for Paint some time end of this month beginning of Feb.
I have in the mean time done some work here and made door templates so i can start building the new door panels and rear 1/4 panels with a matching center console. Finally something I can start to do :-)
can you buy a hub that fits the splines?
I would think if you can fit the splines the rest you can make work with the use of a machine shop
anything can be made to work it's just a matter of how much you want to play with it
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Ja Russ I could get or better said did order a MoMo Hub that hopefully fits the splines properly. Le Carra also has an adapter from the MoMo Hub to their Steering Wheels. Big thing for me is I'm not in Canada until summer and when I'm there I have a week worth of time to make everything work after that the car has to be drivable. And when I get someone else to do the little fumble trying out work it costs me. I might get the adapter later to try it out if I can't find a buyer for the one I have. But thanks for the suggestion
Cheers René
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A couple Transaxle shots here. the 915/61 back together ready for install. Mike my Trany mechanic and good Friend went over it for me and did a great job. He drilled and taped the shift fork cover for fluid take off to a cooler and temp sender and the top of the case over the Differential. We didn't add a LSD yet but its in the plans as a later upgrade project and then if I find the temps are to high i can add a cooler. the Plugs will be taken out after the trany is installed and -8 AN fittings added with Caps and on the bottom (fluid out) with a VDO temp sender. That way we can just drain the fluid and add the cooler if we find that its necessary.
I also just heard from Pat Downs, my Engine should be sent out in about 2 ½ weeks time. Just waiting on the engine tin to be powder coated. The long block is now assembled and waiting. :-) Totally stoked to see and hear the heart of my Baby Purr. And to see the numbers that it brings on the Dyno.
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. He drilled and taped the shift fork cover for fluid take off to a cooler and temp sender ........ then if I find the temps are to high i can add a cooler....... with a VDO temp sender.
Don't bother. The oil temp in a gearbox never gets warm enough to even register on the gauge on a street car. Plus, that large gearbox will run cooler than a Type 1 trans.
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What are your guys experiences with beetles that are not running heat exchangers in regards to fogging up windows etc.
I plan on driving my car from spring to fall, no winter weather.
Would a pair of inline blowers by the fresh air box help keep the Windows clear? Thanks for any tips.
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Not sure if you solved your steering wheel hub issue, but these may help:
http://www.rothsport.com/Products/Chassis/Chassis-Products-Steering-Hub-Adapter.htm (http://www.rothsport.com/Products/Chassis/Chassis-Products-Steering-Hub-Adapter.htm)
-Dave
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Thanks Dave,
I ended up buying an adapter from MoMo and a OMP steering wheel for it. Which fit just need to find a canceling / horn ring and then it should all work. Well better said will work. My brother test fitted the hub already and the splines matched up perfect. I'm guessing the Le Carra listing is wrong in their catalog. But thanks again.
Dave your selector switched for your temp gauges, where did you find that? I've been looking on a few sites but haven't found a toggle other than a on-off-on so far. Otherwise I might just break down and stop by radio shack lol when I start the wiring this summer.
Cheers René
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Bruce I was a little worried because of what I heard about the aluminum 915 transaxle cases and heat from the porsche guys. And as I'm pushing a good 200+ hp I thought I'd at least try keep an eye on the temps just in case. If after long hard drives I see to high of temperatures then I'll have the option of adding a cooler.
Also considering that I will Be driving it quite often on the autobahn here when I finally have it sent over in a few years.
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With respect to the defrosting issue, why would one not run the stock air box with the 2 speed fan. Fits in stock location and provides air to the 2 upper vents. With a little creativity you could have air to the 3 upper vents. I have been running this setup in my 73 standard for close to 20 years. I believe mine came from a 76 deluxe. Flat windshield supers have the same box. This is the box.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F1189278.jpg&hash=60364d9697f5e35f73f062b6525b4483d6a47dad)
Now for some heat I would run a Webasto 2000ST gas heater (very compact) and integrate the whole thing with off the shelf webasto or espar air plumbing. Oh and reverse flow hot air to the front floor using the two lower side hot air defroster ducts. Block the flow to the rear at the floor outlet. Go look at the Webasto and Espar catalogs.
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Good idea I never heard of these are boxes! I'll have to make an add for one or see if I can find a wrecker with one. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Geoff should be able to find the box and if it's not included, CIP sells the switch. It goes right in the center upper dash.
And the more I think about it, I would place the Webasto behind the back seat and run the hot air down by the trans and right into the stock heater pipes. These things are about 5 in by 5 in and 13 in long. Cover it with an insulated metal shroud so it would be very quiet. So hot air comes from the heater rather than the engine and the rest forward is stock. You could even set up a switch to be triggered by the heater lever on the tunnel.
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Dave your selector switched for your temp gauges, where did you find that? I've been looking on a few sites but haven't found a toggle other than a on-off-on so far. Otherwise I might just break down and stop by radio shack lol when I start the wiring this summer.
Cheers René
Oh Gee, that was a long time ago. I suspect MCO Electronics, on Broadway. http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/ (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/)...yep, 99% sure. I hope you don't ask me what switch though. I only remember the switch and knob were purchased separately.
-Dave
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Lol :-) Dave and which switch Dave :-) just joking. I'll dig around and see what i can find. Thanks for that tip.
But I have a different question. Did you have a lot of problems getting your 901 trany bolted up to your engine. Length issues etc. ?
Monty at KEP said that with the clutch conversion kit I have everything should bolt right up without any issues etc.
I'd like to be able to test fit everything at this point but im still waiting on my engine. Because the engine tin hasn't returned from Powdercoating lol (Not Russ) the guys my engine builder uses for his Engine Tin.
Patience Patience I need to tell myself all the time, It will work out in the end. lol
Just not the typ to leave things to chance that it will hopefully work out.
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Only issue swapping to the Porsche 901 was the two lower engine studs. The Volkswagen studs were too short for the Porsche transmission, and I simply cut a new set on the lathe vs buying genuine porsche studs. Find the correct year 911 on Pelican parts, and then find the engine mounting studs. You might need to hit the forum to ask for assistance as in '67 (my year transmission) they were just listed as "engine studs" with a few different lengths. But finding the P-Car studs will tell you the length, which you can then compare to the VW studs. I could have backed the studs out of my engine case to make it all bolt up, but I figure maximum depth was safer.
Switch was something along these lines:
http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=164 (http://www.mroelectronics.com/mro/product.php?id_product=164)
-Dave
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Thanks Dave!
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Dave this is what Pelican came up with sound familiar. Nice description on these parts lol
NLA Guess i need to make my own as well :-)
What did you end up using for material. Stainless or Galvanized Steel. I have available 8.8, 10.9 or 12.0 for the stud grade in steel and in stainless just 8.8 but im not sure if going to a 10.9 or 12 would be helpful or detrimental as the harder the less flex and more chance of Breakage etc.
Its just these 4 studs that hold the engine in place right. SO they hold the weight of my heavy Alu. engine. :-)
Any Ideas?
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Just the lower two studs, the upper two are bolts and you can buy whatever length & grade that you like. For my lower studs, I bought a set of bolts that were far too long, and used the lathe to trim & thread em. Not sure if we heat-treated them after or not. Possibly, but not scientifically. I wouldn't be overly worried about it. Use the rolled threads in your engine case, and the cut threads on the chassis-side.
-Dave
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Cool thanks Dave that confirms what I was thinking of doing with the bolts. Means I only need to cut thread on one side :-) I'd prefer stainless but I can only get them in a 8.8 grade :-( and would have liked at least a 10.9 just to make me feel better :-)
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Stainless is probably a bad idea for galvanic corrosion reasons...but that partially depends on how your case is finished.
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I never thought of Galvanic Corrosion in regards to Alu. and Stainless I know its an issue with water pipes unless its a closed system w/o oxygen. Think I'll go with normal Galvanized steel in that case As i can get them already in a harder grade.
Speaking of engine :-) I got a first picture of my Beauty Pat said he's just waiting on a fuel pump so he can run it on the Dyno and test it / Tune it. Cant wait to see the results of the set up we went with and to see the final spe sheets :-)
I think I really went over board on it but in the end I think it will suit the car quite nicely.
Was grinning form ear to ear when I received the mail from Pat lol.
So maybe in a week or two it will be in Canada ready for install and test fitting it in the car before the whole rolling car goes off for paint.
Cheers René
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wow, that's quite the engine
looks killer
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It looks like the bottom pulley is smaller than stock. If so, it won't work. You need at least the stock size pulley for maximum cooling.
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Thanks Russ I'm excited about it. Perfect fit for this Car I think. Little over the top but I think we did that in most corners on this car. Defiantly in regards to the People working on her Russ :-)
It just looks like that Bruce because of the Crank sensor ring thats mounted to the bottom Crank Pulley. Its the Stock Size Pulley and Pat convinced me of not going with a serp. system because of throwing belts and not enough slippage at higher rpm's. Otherwise we would have run a Serp. Belt system. Cooling shouldn't be to much of an issue as we added dual oil coolers. Didn't over do it on our Head selection and Plan on running E85 as the main fuel in this Baby's Bottle.
Pat Did a great job on it I think. I'll Post a Clip or a link to the clip as soon as its been on the Dyno :-)
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Dave I think Pelican screwed up on the info they sent me.
According to them its only 69mm long a stock beetle Stud is longer than that (82mm). However don't they make a set of longer studs for when guys upgrade to Bus Transaxles. 100mm long grade 8.8 is wha they are listed at. could that be ev. the right length? Guess I gotta do some more digging in Porsche Forums to see if I can find more info. There is a Aftermarket supplier that lists something like a stud set for upgrading engines to a 901/914/915 etc. unfortunately they don't tell you the stud lengths and 40US for 2x 5 dollar studs is over kill I think lol.
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Well, I'm not sure for a 915 trans? AND, to make matters more fun, I have an EARLY 901 box (different bell housing shape to the more common one) so it could be just mine is weird.
My motor is out on the floor though, so I can measure the length of my studs for you.
-Dave
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That would be a great help Dave thanks. It would be at least a good starting point. I like your release bearing upgrade! Should have been what I did as well. It's a nice Clean set up for sure.
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I wrote Pelican back and told them that can't be right ones and they said they have one other listing for the turbo cars m10 x 122mm long. I ordered those, pricy for studs at 6.50usd a piece I thought but cheep we than if I spent the time to make them myself. I'm hoping that they are now the right ones. I can't imagine that they would be much longer than that the bug engine to bus Trany conversion studs are only 100mm I think Ive got the right listing this time. Otherwise if to long then it's cut to length and tap some thread on them.
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A short up date .
Engine on its way yahoo!! Final Dyno pull had a peek HP at 215 - 6300rpm with almost 200lbs torque. But she should have a bit more in her after she is broke in and has the final tune done in the car Pat said :-) got a great deal on freight surprised all of us. So yahoo soon we can start with paint :-)
And she is running real cool he said with the E85 in her.
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awesome glad to hear.
shipping right to Canada?
the US dollar is crippling right now anytime I buy something:(
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Yah the exchange rate in that sense sucks but for me it's ok right now Swiss Frank to USD is about 1-1 which is not bad. And shipping was straight to Geoff with crating fees and a lift gate truck.
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Anyone know of a good or better option for adding a passengerside rearview mirror. I have a set of baby turbo mirrors but don't know if they look that great when mounted in a manner that they are actually useful. Any suggestions?
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It's funny how a little bit custom can so quickly go way over board to full custom. Lol
Car up date it will be going out for paint this weekend :-)
Engine caused A few aches and pains because of all that custom lol.
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very cool, paint is always fun times
Don still doing it?
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Have a look here for mirrors, The top one is cool.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=MIRRORSVINT
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Yes Sir Don is still the Man for the paint job. Fair price and From what I've seen in pictures top notch quality. Your car turned out great from what I can see In pictures Russ! Can't wait to See it in person this summer!
Thanks for the suggestion G! Bruce helped me out in the mean time guess I should have mentioned that.
- René-
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Car up date it will be going out for paint this weekend :-)
right on! another very exciting part of the build process!!
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I have some Prep work pictures i can post. Colour should be on her soon.
The old Tar Board clips being removed
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here some old pictures of her on the way off to Don
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Again old pictures.
Fenders and trailer
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last of the old before pick up
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some more current pictures of the final prep for premiering
wheel well areas
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more wheel well, last one snuck in a engine bay pic as well lol
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rear wheel wells
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I think the last of my pictures for today
Dash smoothing
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looking great
keep the updates coming
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Don's Beer Break waiting for Primer to dry.
Sorry I couldn't resist :-)
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In Primer First coat of 3
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Solar Powered Dryer :-) Watching out for future Generations
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A very well earned Break!! Enjoying the Sun. To tired apparently to make a good Selfie
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don's Kicking ass on it
it is looking great, just wait until you get some colour:)
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All Loaded up yesterday for the trip to the paint booth.
and here she sits ready for her new colour.
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Base coat
and Goof ball (Don) posing in the refection of his work lol
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Clear coated and finished waiting for a night of drying and Pick up in the morning. (Today lol) Looking forward to seeing her in some daylight. Don's doing an awesome Job and I'm really liking my choice of colours. Was uncertain for some time.
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In the Sun light :-)
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When in he shade it really looks Black :-)
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Really happy with the colour. Next weekend its off to Brian for the headliner install :-)
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Wow this car sure has come a long way! Looking great Rene.
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Thanks Geoff, its largely due to your great work G !! and countless others. I'm looking forward to finally being able to see it with my own eyes really soon :-)
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don sent me pics of it a bit ago and he did an amazing job
you will be thrilled with it I'm sure
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Thanks Russ,
I Landed yesterday and I'm hoping I might be able go take a look at her today :-)
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Saw my Car in person for the first time in 5 years.
Awesome The Guys all did a killer Job on their respective parts of the Project. Thanks Geoff, Don, Brian Russ, Rob, Jerry and everyone else that had a part in it so far. I have a lot of work ahead of me the next couple of weeks but I'm looking forward to it.
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get cracking you have a ton of assembly work to do but should be fun
keep the updates coming
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I hope to get it over to the shop Tuesday, looking forward to seeing it.
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I have a lot of Project updates to do when I find a quiet min. But here is a Question that someone might be able to help me out with.
Late model door handle seals, the ones I got from CIP Suck is there anyone that supplies a better fitting version that anyone can recommend??
Thanks for any tips.
Cheers René
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always found good success with Wolfsburg west stuff. Although can't say i've done it on a later car like yours.
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whats the status on cutie? :cool:
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Hi Silas, Thanks for waking me up lol.
I posted a bunch of update on FB but I guess I forgot to add some info here. She is currently taking a winter break. I unfortunately did make my goal last year and Had to fly back to CH without her done. I'm hoping that we will be able to get her rolling under her own power this spring / summer. won't be 100% finished but are they ever ??
I'll try ti get some updates on here soon. She's turning out nicely can't wait to go for a drive finally.
Cheers Ren
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Some very late project updates lol
One of my first jobs after i landed was drilling for all the gauges. Scary !! I need to touch up a bit around the edges or make a Bezel / gauge panel to cover up the filler i had to add after drilling for the gauges.
the very first thing we did was fun with baby powder lol getting all the weather seals on the car. What a pain.
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here is the center console I made needs some tweaking to make it fit was never a priority to get done so after a initial test fit it hasn't gone back in the car. A detail i will deal with closer to the end of the project.
And a shot of the Rear bench cover. Cover from Sewfine Fitted by the Local Interior master Brian Cook thanks Brian for the killer work and the short notice help.
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the center console has the Trans Temp and Head temp gauges plus my Bluetooth interface from JL Audio
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And the Gauges are in with the woodgrain panels all in place.
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great update & pics! :)
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Cutting out the glovebox area to fit the new Glovebox was a scary experience :-) and caused me a few issues afterwards with the wiper. Dang i didn't consider everything when building this. I should have had the car here when i was building the box. Would be the normal way of doing things lol
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The glove box in and Apoxid it in place a little to early went to test fir the Wiper motor afterwards and dang. Now creative solutions were required lol
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we found a casting flaw at the last min as well. CB Performance was good about it and sent me a replacement.
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a few late night calling it quits for a day pictures.
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wiring chaos still lots to clean up here
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We Rolled her out on my last day working on her before we had to make ourselves on our way. My Wife was not impressed but very patient and let me live. lol
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gotta get the fron down more or raise the rear preferably get the front down.
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Dang wish she was done or could at least hear her run once.
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Looks great! Really coming together
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gotta get the fron down more or raise the rear preferably get the front down.
Once assembly is done and your tank is full, the front will be a lot lower than it is now. I predict you will be raising it a bit.
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Thanks Bruce and Brian,
Bruce thats what we are hoping for that the front comes down when all the weight is finally in up front. Cause the rear hight is Perfect where it is at. Just has a counter Rake (right now) in the opposite direction it should be if raked lol.
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looking good
when is the next trip out?
it's getting closer, exciting times
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Looks like i might be able to fly home for a week of turning wrenches at the end of this month beginning of June. I hope it works out and that i Get my goals checked off the list when I'm there.
Thanks for the encouragement
Cheers René
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Can someone help me. I googled my question already but haven't been lucky finding the answer. On the standard beetle can someone tell me the length of the 4 m10 bolts from the floor pan to the body. There are 4 right up front if I remember correctly the rest are all m8 running along the sides. They are Right under the front bulkhead. I'm guessing they are 60-80mm long?
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M10x50 if I remember correctly.
Pretty sure it's N0347784 for the part number.
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Cool Thanks Dave!!
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Flights are booked i'll be there on the first to start wrenching and finishing the wiring etc. Looking forward to a few days away with my youngest in tow. I hope I get as much done as i'd like.
Canada Here We come 1 - 15 of June
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Back home for Canada Day!!
Started bolting on the fenders dang fender beading is no fun. At least its a German kit. Working form one wheel well to the next finishing up all the details hidden under each one so i don't have to remove the Wheels hopefully this trip out. then onto the engine bay to get the TB's buttoned on again so everything is installed before i go crazy on finishing wiring. I want to hear her Prrrrr this time and drive her around the block at least once :-)
In about a week or so I hope to bring her to Geoff's shop again to work out the final issues that i need help with and check everything over. I'll try to keep the posts updated this time around.
Cheers everyone hope you have a great Canada Day
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Changed the front Wheelstuds so it would really be safe to drive. If I could drive her. :-)
- Headlights were a bit of a fight to get the H4 Halo's headlights to fit into the repop housings but got them to work. I will keep my original ones so i can rebuild them when i have time. As they seem to be a way better quality than the repop's that i just installed.
- I need to still change out the calliper bolts and paint the adapters. Then I can bolt the wheels up for the last time.
(Why is metric hardware so hard to get a hold of locally dang. )
I hope to finish up all the fenders tomorrow as well as the running boards, and get those bolts for the calipers.
While im working on the rear fenders get my Taillights installed.
Lots still to do. Wish I had my own shop to work in to do it all.
Cheers all
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awesome keep the updates coming
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I'm missing a Gas tank mounting clamp. Three I have, I'm just short one. if someone has a spare kicking around in their hardware collection and is going to be at Carbs and Coffee I'll buy you a coffee :-) lol and a big thanks.
Cheer Ren
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Thanks Bruce for the Gas tank Clamp and a big thanks to Hans for the replacement Passenger window.
Thanks guys
Cheers Rene
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Some updates of the Progress durning my Visit home,
First few days were bolting up fenders and getting lights etc. installed. The H4 Halo headlights that we thought wouldn't work i was able to get installed. I just needed to bend out the spring adjusters on the housings a bit to make room for the headlights. (Aftermarket parts grrr) Quality of some of this knock off stuff is really questionable but the Headlights from Summit were good it was more the replacement housing that made problems.
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clear signals with amber bulbs and smoked out tail lights. all installed not so impressed with the quality of those aftermarket taillight assemblies.
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My Son snuck out to visit me. Side note working in a parkade is a pain in the ass.
the red doors I won't go to far into detail here. other than to say were the fix on the passenger side to my door issue. the gaps are still tight but the line up 100000 times better. on the drivers side Geoff had to cut and weld the hinges to get it to work 95% better but now they close right. and we decided to stay with the vent windows now instead of converting again to one piece.
so to get that part wrapped up we'll need to repaint the doors to match and do some touch up work here and there.