Front Beam Advice

[owdlvr]

Alright, looking for some advice here.

I've got my '75 with all factory components installed, but the front beam needs to be replaced (housing is rusty). Along with the '75 I have a new genuine VW front beam which is bare. So to do the rebuild I figure that I will need seals, bearings, sway bar mount kit and new ball joints (do 'em while I'm in there). Plus the misc items you don't think of, lock-plates, etc. etc. 

My '69 is lowered with drop spindles only, the height of which is just fine for me. I was planning on moving the drop spindles from the '69 over to the '75 when I do the rebuild, and then toss on a drop spindle / disc brake kit onto the '69.

Here is the end goal:  The '69 will remain 2.5" lowered and have a disc-brake kit installed, I would like to keep it factory width. The '75 will be factory except for 2.5" lowering spindles, as it will be "factory original" save for the 2.5" drop.

Am I smarter to:

a) rebuild the new beam I have and install onto the '75. Then move the spindles from the '69, and add the disc brake kit.

b) sell the bare beam, move the whole beam/drum assembly from the '69 over to the '75 and then install a new ready-to-go beam, spindle and disc brake kit to the '69



I'm not worried about the labor, that's just time in the garage. But I wonder if I can't just buy a complete ready to go beam assembly cheaper then it's going to cost me in nickel-and-dime parts for building up the bare beam I have.  I guess I'll need to call up AVR and see what a complete beam ready to go costs. Chico, for instance, has the entire assembly (spindle to spindle) for $299.99.

Thoughts?

-Dave

[Bruce]

I would never trust a beam like that.  Who built it?
Build your own beam, then you know it's done right.
Instead of replacing the ball joints, get the Bentley out and check the play.  My car has around

[owdlvr]

Thanks for the advice!

Ordered the seals, will need to measure the beam I have to figure out if it's bearings or bushings and will rebuild it myself.

Ahhh...between the engine parts, front axle and pop out window seals I just dropped a grand. 

-Dave

[silas]

if the company that builds complete beams has a proven track record, a good/clean reputation, some good honest feedback from people that have used their services/parts, and uses good quality parts...then i dont see a problem using their services/parts. people do it all the time.

of course...imho, it is way more fun and rewarding to build/do your own work and build your own stuff.

also, keep in mind that most drop spindles and disc brake kits will increase the width of the front track...it's best to ask the manufacturer before purchase so you know exactly how by much (iirc, about 1/2" per side for each...allthough i think there might be 0 offset disc brake kit somewhere...dont hold me to it). that's why alot of people use 2" narrowed beams when installing drop spindles & disc brakes...so they can have the add on's and still retain close to factory track width on the front.

just something to keep in mind for the 69.

so i'd go with option B...sell the 75 beam, move complete beam (drum to drum) from the 69 to the 75, and then start from scratch on the 69 with a 2" narrowed beam (if needed), drop spindles & disc brakes.

[owdlvr]

After thinking about it for a while, I think I'm going to mount the disc spindles and disc brake kit to the '69 first, to see what the clearance and track width is. If it's all good, I'll keep the kit on and rebuild the '75 unit. If the track width is different from the current drop spindle/drum set, I'll move the whole beam over and start looking for a narrowed beam.

If it works out okay, it means the '75 will be roll-able while I work on the '69...then the '69 is roll-able while I work on the '75.

We may have a 6 car garage...but it's too darned full!

-D

[silas]

After thinking about it for a while, I think I'm going to mount the disc spindles and disc brake kit to the '69 first, to see what the clearance and track width is. If it's all good, I'll keep the kit on and rebuild the '75 unit. If the track width is different from the current drop spindle/drum set, I'll move the whole beam over and start looking for a narrowed beam.

cool.

if you have a chance and just for s#!ts & giggles...let us know what the front track width of the 75 is compared to the front track width of the 69 as it sits now (just drop spindles).

[owdlvr]

Different rims and different tires. If you've got a good suggestion for measuring accurately I can give you 4 options:

- Stock 1975 Standard
- 1969 with drop spindles
- 1969 with drop spindles and disc brake kit
- 1975 with drop spindles (thus determining the drop spindle offset...even better if they have a brand cast into them!)

I _suppose_ I could just swap the tires/wheels back and forth...but that's somewhat annoying

-Dave

[Randy]

I _suppose_ I could just swap the tires/wheels back and forth...but that's somewhat annoying

Just switch one wheel from each and you would still be able to measure the difference between the two.

[silas]

I _suppose_ I could just swap the tires/wheels back and forth...but that's somewhat annoying

Just switch one wheel from each and you would still be able to measure the difference between the two.

that would work.

or from the back of the backing plate to the back of the opposing backing plate (but then that wouldnt work when you do the disc kit swap...and i dont know if there are big differences between the 69 & 75 backing plates).

ideally i think it would be best to do it from the mounting surface of one drum/disc to the opposing drum/disc (it just means more work pulling tires).