Author Topic: Jim Martin  (Read 131346 times)

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Offline Geoff

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #210 on: March 12, 2011, 08:34:15 AM »
That represents alot of work Jim..Good job.  I guess now you have to keep the sump off the pavement on launch now too.

It's nice to see you getting some time to work on it again.

Look forward to seeing you get it down the track this year.

Kevin

DRy Sump!


Looks wicked!

Offline neil68

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #211 on: March 18, 2011, 03:07:02 PM »
Jim,

Are those centerlines?  How much do they weigh?

I've been keeping an eye out for some lighter wheels for my '68, as I've been running old steel Sprintstars, but would like to reduce weight. Any other wheels that I should consider?  I have M&H 215-65's on 5.5" wheels, so I'd like to find something similar in size.

Thanks,
Neil
Der Kleiner Rennwagens
'68 Beetle 2332 cc
12.6 sec at 109 mph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF2gCti3dro

Offline Bruce

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #212 on: March 18, 2011, 09:04:30 PM »
Neil,
Centerline wheels are designed for 3-4000+ lb cars, so they are super strong.  That's why the off road guys like them.  The problem is, they are hefty wheels.  They weigh in around what a stock steel wheel weighs. 
A stock steel wheel is about 15 lbs.  Your sprints are more.

Some common VW wheel weights:

Fuchs 6": 13 lbs
Fuchs 4": 10 lbs
Mahle Mg 5½": 10 lbs
Real BRM Mg 5": 7-7.5 lbs
ERCO pie plates: 5-5.5 lbs

Don't assume every cast aluminum wheel is lighter than stock steels.  Once I weighed a fake Fuchs, 18 lbs!

If you switch to ERCOs, you'll remove about 50 lbs from your car.  Since it is rotating mass, it's effect on your ETs is much more.  My estimate is that you would see the same as if you added 10-15hp.

Offline neil68

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #213 on: March 18, 2011, 11:19:00 PM »
Thanks for the numbers, Bruce.

What about these ERCO's:  http://www.vwparts.net/ER41901756.html


Says 25 lb. shipping weight, but that would be fully boxed...
« Last Edit: March 18, 2011, 11:20:35 PM by neil68 »
Neil
Der Kleiner Rennwagens
'68 Beetle 2332 cc
12.6 sec at 109 mph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF2gCti3dro

Offline Bruce

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #214 on: March 19, 2011, 11:48:29 AM »
Those are the heavier street wheels, made from .190" thick Al.  The race weight wheels are .125", so they'll be 2/3 the weight. Geoff runs the lighter wheels on the street. They are fine if you're not boy-ricer-racing.
4 lug wheels are a bit heavier than wide 5.  On top of that, you can cut holes in the face between the lugs like Josh did to his.
25 lbs is the shipping weight for a pair of 6" wheels.  Do you need a 6?  I don't know about your tires, but with a 'stone 6" slick, the ideal wheel is 5".

Offline neil68

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #215 on: March 19, 2011, 02:37:19 PM »
Thanks, Bruce.

I might switch to wide-5 drums or discs, since I'm currently running with SAW short axles.  I'm looking to bump up the HP by 40-50 this spring, so I might be upgrading the brakes.  If I go wide-5, then what are some good choices for a light race wheel on the back?
Neil
Der Kleiner Rennwagens
'68 Beetle 2332 cc
12.6 sec at 109 mph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FF2gCti3dro

Offline Bruce

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #216 on: March 20, 2011, 01:30:11 AM »
The ERCO .125 race version is the lightest wheel in existance.

Beware, even though the wide 5 wheels are lighter than the 4 bolt wheels, wide 5 disc brakes are HEAVY by comparison.  The worst out there is the AC Industries front discs.  Their rotor is all one piece.  My estimate is that their rotors weigh more than 10 lbs each. 
The CB wide 5 kit is much better, but it's cast aluminum hub is pretty thick for what it does.  I'll say that the CB wide 5 rotor is heavier than a stock KG rotor.

Offline Geoff

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #217 on: March 20, 2011, 08:21:14 AM »
I now run the CSP wide 5 discs and although they have alum hub and steel rotor they feel heavier than the orig KG disc's

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #218 on: March 20, 2011, 02:57:41 PM »
using 4 bolt rims limits you alot on performance brake components and the only reason i dont swap out those rims is on the second day i owned that car i bought those rims and they have been on it ever since .that was just over 30 years ago .oh god
took the scale out for you for some real #'s, also all tires have no tubes
frt 3.5/15" with 145 kebler radials = 26 lbs
rear 5.5"/15 with 205 bf goodrich radial ta's = 35.5 lbs
rear 5.5"/15 with m @h  P215/65-15    street strip dot  = 30 lbs
rear neal discs complete =14.0 lbs
stock drum setup complete = 21.5 lbs
roto hubs complete = 23.5 lbs that was the version without handbrake

swapping out the frt tires to a m and h dot would save a few pounds as well but i need a radial up frt for when i put on the street tires
- just swapping out the rear brakes saves 13 plus pounds
have the second arm together and will get those pictures up soon , missing a few but the idea will get across




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #219 on: March 20, 2011, 07:36:00 PM »
damb Bruce he always gets me thinking , thinking back some time ago before i mounted the dot s and i remember those rims felt quite lite .
i found some notes from awhile back which showed the M@H dots i run to be 19 lbs so 31-19 = 12lbs and thats with a good thick beed of silicon on the inside to seal the rim , not bad .i'm thinking the frts are around the same 12 lb mark as well




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #220 on: April 17, 2011, 12:35:03 AM »
the left control arm is finnished but i dont want to jump ahead to far .i'm going to give the quick version minus all the fab and major modifications and fill those in later .
at this point i was going to make my own rear control arms as the stock arms would not take the modifications i needed .
so i started by making a JIG based on a stock rear control arm .pretty simple, 2 sections of heavy wall rectangular tube welded at a 90 deg .lower support tubing welded on as legs to keep it stable and a removable fence to square the lower bearing support up .
this shows the right rear stock trailing arm sitting in place on the JIG to give you a idea .

in the above photo the JIG has been modified multiple times and is now a universal left or right JIG with the ability to allow for change in position of the upper pivot, raising or lowering the bearing housing point as well as allowing to narrow as much as needed.
when the JIG was first made i based it on a complete stock arm as i was going to use the weld in stock IRS pivots .
i was happy with the JIG until i decided to bolt in the left control arm ,that's when i found out that stock arms are made with the spring plate and the bearing support not parallel but designed with a few degrees of negative camber .this just killed the universal JIG idea and with the decision to now make my own inner pivot based on a heim joint the JIG was modified to allow for the above listed 3 changes .
yes i love green tape but it sure allows you to make some good pen marks .
this is it the last version of the jig .
the inner pivot point moves up and down and is centered in relation to the centre bolt of the spring plate and you can see the pen line that is the reference for the bottom and top sections of the jig .the spring plate mount is also welded at 90 deg to the rear support of the JIG .also a large hole was cut after to allow for the stub axle to hang through a little later on .



now you can see how it works .
stock arm and first version of test arm



you can see how the fence allows the bearing housing to be squared up for either left or right sides .it is spaced with a 1/4" plate off the plate to the mounting edge of the bearing housing and to make a narrower rear control arm i needed to add spacers below the bearing housing .very simple .

this is a picture of the test control arm during some point.you can see its been hacked a few times ,the heim joint is now in and how i allowed for in and out adjustment of the rear wheel while the arm was mounted in the car . it was needed as fender and spring plate clearance was very tight and i could slide it in and out as needed.


« Last Edit: April 17, 2011, 02:05:27 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #221 on: April 25, 2011, 11:17:00 PM »
next step was to locate a set of IRS spring plates , Bruce T was nice enough to lend me one and from that a template was made and transferred to my adjustable swing axle spring plates . and with a bit of trimming and drilling had a set of homemade IRS spring plates .if anyone is drilling spring plates use a speed of around 650 rpm and correct cutting fluid and it is no problem .
test arm fitted to the modified spring plate .what you cannot see is the temporary adjustable inner pivot tacked to the torsion tube .this allowed me to move the pivot position up or down which in turn allowed for camber adjustments  based on the tire position .at this point i had set my new ride height and set the camber of the wheel to 0 deg as a starting point . its not pretty but its a start .

with the bearing housing slid into place and using a piece of angle iron bolted squarely to the spring plate the test control arm was set 90 deg to the torsion tube .
best to start square by measuring from the points 'a' and 'b' to the outer edge of the angle iron .

tire on and for the first time was able to see if this was really going to work , i had no idea if i was on the correct path .
the new ride height which is allot lower than before , i like it when the line around the outer edge of the tire just lines up with the lower edge of the fender

jacked it up to the end of travel , not bad

and at full compression the camber was great at -1.20 DEG

as anyone would be i was pretty stoked as it looked great but now it was time to start checking for clearance .
anyone putting a wider rear tire under a vw rear fender knows fender clearance and in my case adjustable spring plate clearance is always a concern .
i would need to address these before continuing .with a swing axle setup .fender clearance is not to bad because as the wheel compresses it also tilts in allot which pulls the tire away from the fender but gives huge negative camber . because my wheel is staying fairly flat i dont have that natural pull away to give needed clearance .
brain storm , called john at M and H and asked the questions based on 130 mph
 what he says is he would like to see 1" clearance at all points but he knows its not always possible .
i have 2 sets of M and H tires one is the DOT 215/65/15 and the other is the straight 26/6/15 slick .
what he says is the side wall is stiffer in the DOT and will limit growth and sidewall flex when turning or getting squirrely a bit more than the straight slick.
from his experience he sees about a 1/2" growth total height so that would be 1/4 per side if you think in that terms .also because of this the sidewall gets narrower with speed this does add sidewall clearance .he has seen cars with side clearance with 1/4 " rub or not rub so it depends on the vehicle .
his recommendation is to put the DOT tires on and make some none balls out runs and check for issues , then increase speed and check for clearance issues ,then proceed with the slicks . good advice .so he figures i'm safe but i need to check and proceed with caution .
 i have made my own fender bead roller which worked fantastic as well as modified the spring plates which will be brought up later , these 2 mods allows for a pinky finger of clearance at both the fender and springplate.
so with the fender and spring plate clearance issue dealt with it was now time to start playing with how far i could push the wheel up .
wrapped a 3/4" OD water hose onto the slick and started spinning it until it just rubbed ,you can see the contact point on the green tape.

it actually rubs on the inner wheel well on the body .wanting to not have to limit the compression height i would need to increase that tire to inner wheel well clearance .
easy solution is to pull the tire back to the rear .started working on making the test arm longer and it was abandon in favor of raising the complete bearing housing 3/4" up from its current centered position ,poor test arm hacked up again .this allowed the tire to rise up but because the spring plate does not need to move as far up anymore it also did not pull the wheel as far foreword .problem solved .
again same photo but notice the bearing housing is centered with the middle bolt on the spring plate and in the second photo the bearing housing is well above that middle bolt


there were a few more modifications required to the inner structure and a few not done yet that still need doing  .but trying to get this thread caught up quick and up to date .
note : the inner pivot point is not that big of a mystery , but actually is a great spot to allow you to change or adjust your camber settings .anyone welding in there stock IRS pockets could use this point to adjust and make camber changes before welding them in .
  Well time to start building my own control arms now that all the calculating and testing is done .my control arms will end up being. raised,narrowed ,lighter,stronger ,simpler,and allow for easy camber, toe  and depth changes .tall order but should all be doable .
time to gather material .
« Last Edit: April 26, 2011, 06:16:19 AM by jim martin »




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Offline Bruce

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #222 on: April 26, 2011, 12:14:16 PM »
anyone putting a wider rear tire under a vw rear fender knows fender clearance and in my case adjustable spring plate clearance is always a concern .

from his experience he sees about a 1/2" growth total height so that would be 1/4 per side if you think in that terms .also because of this the sidewall gets narrower with speed this does add sidewall clearance .he has seen cars with side clearance with 1/4 " rub or not rub so it depends on the vehicle .

When I was building my trailing arms, I had much less clearance than that.  However, I was using a much stiffer tire that didn't squirm around as much as your DOTs or slicks.  I had 1/8" clearance to the tab on the TA that connected to the spring plate, and slightly less at the 12 O'Clock position to the fender arch.  From that, I learned you need more clearance the lower you move down the tire.  During cornering, the contact patch at 6 O'Clock is where the tire is getting pulled.  So max deflection happens there, and the minimum is at the top.

Billyisgr8

Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #223 on: April 26, 2011, 12:53:57 PM »
I wonder at launch how true the tire stays to being round.  Dragster tires become severly distorted from the turning rim  which pulls the backside into being almost flat which gives the top more of an arch.  This is very extreme example, but maybe Darren has some slow mo launches that show his tire moving around some.  Our 26" tire wouldn't move anything like on a dragster, but you really don't know what the movement is until you are trying it out in a drag race start with some 1.5's 60's.

Nice write ups so far on the step by step Jim.

Kevin

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #224 on: April 26, 2011, 10:26:12 PM »
  again sorry for a non super detailed write up as this year i dont have the time and there is just so much info in the starting stages that was acquired i could never type it all up .but hopefully this shows a to the point approach so far.
the bearing plates are made of 3/8 " steel plate over 1/4" plate .because the way the arms are being built .weight over flex wins .
reference : a  8" by 12" piece of 1/4" plate was 7.5 lbs and the 3/8" plate was 10 lbs . with 2 pieces of plate on hand the DOM 1 1/4" OD tubing was also purchased from metal supermarket .
  the 3/4" high strength heim joints and weld in threaded collars were picked up from John at Chief Chassis .and yes there is a difference in quality and strength  ,please dont assume just because its a 3/4" heim joint its strong .you better check the strength as you will find out many cheaper or off shore heim joints are no way near the strength of high quality units.
   the bearing housings are a weld in stock type available from any vw parts supplier as are the bearings , seals and 930 cv joint size stub axles .the rear Neal disc brakes were purchased from Fun runners.
you can imagine all the checking and test fitting leading up to this point that has taken place, and even after all that i still came across one last change before i started on the jig assembly .i will save that photo for last as it shows the whole concept that allowed for a unique design i'm quite proud of .we'll see if anyone picks it out .
like i said as i made each piece a duplicate was cut at the same time .starting with the 3/8" bearing plates .
both plates were pinned together with 2 small roll pins so both pieces could be cut and drilled at the same time making sure they were exact duplicates

the plates were marked in half and 1" from the end a 2 7/8" hole was drilled .

here we go , with just a little around the world sanding of the 2 7/8" hole the bearing housing slid in perfectly .

nice and flush , these bearing housings are designed to be welded in , but i will go another route just in case something goes sour and it needs replacement
or modification down the road





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Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #225 on: April 28, 2011, 07:31:00 PM »
Wow Jim! I can really appreciate the time and effort in not only the work involved but also the calculations, head scratching, trial&error and last but not least the documentation you share!! You_Rock_Emoticon
Love this thread, your car kicks ass! Keep it up
55 ragtop T1
56 kombi T2

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #226 on: April 28, 2011, 11:13:06 PM »
the inner pivot point has been lowered 1 1/2" but the 3/4" bolt retains the stock pivot point angle .the heim joint sits on the bolt and the 3 washers are stacked on top .the first washer has the ID bored to allow the inner ball of the heim joint to sit inside it and the other 2 washers when tightened down square the complete assembly and stop all movement .

   added the 4" piece of tubing up onto the threaded tube collar ,break out the tig and tack the tube to the collar .the threaded collar allows the heim joint to adjust in and out as well as gives a good solid welded connection

   now a picture i do not have is of the master bearing plate template , when i pinned the two 3/8" bearing plates together to bore the 2 7/8" hole i also decided to pin 1 more piece of 1/4" plate to them .now i had a master plate to work from .and as i worked on the first control arm , any hole that was drilled was also copied to the 1/4" master so it was just a matter of pinning the 1/4" master to the new 3/8 " bearing plate and use it as a guide for boring the needed fwd 1/2" mounting holes , worked fantastic.also i kept a thin cardboard template that i laid over the 3/8 plate and marked the location of the diagonal tubes .it will make sense as the pictures come up .

  with the new bearing plate fwd holes drilled and diagonal arm holes marked time to mount up the new bearing plate to the jig.

  i had mentioned before how the jig is made universal, and it does not matter whether you are making a left or right arm they will turn out the same  .this is how the bearing plate and bearing housing mount and get squared/centered to the jig or in this case raised 3/4" up .
 on the right side of the jig is a fairly heavy piece of angle iron clamped to the lower side of the jig used as a guide , and for reference if a 1/4" shim was laid vertically against it. then the outer edge of the bearing housing was slid over to touch it the stub axle would be 100% dead centre to the complete assembly , look at the pen mark on the green tape it shows the centre of the lower part of the jig. what has happened now is there are 3 blocks all 1" thick .i needed to stack them to get the height .so take out the 1/4" shim and add back 1" of shims between the bearing housing and the heavy angle iron guide and when the bearing housing is slid over and just touches the 1" shims, the assembly has just been raised 3/4" above the centre line .at this point the 1 fwd bolt was tightened very well  to keep it all in place .

 time to get the diagonal arms in , sorry i do not have a picture of the tube notching jig in use , i will see if i have one and post it .but like i said i made duplicates of all pieces when the first arm was made .now something i did was use 1 1/4" wooden dowels to test all my angles .way easier to keep trimming wooden dowels than steel tube .once i was happy with the fit and angle i would just replace the wooden dowel in the jig with the 1 1/4" dom tubing and cut the same notch . in this photo i have taped the first diagonal test dowel to the 4 " stub piece from the heim joint and with a thin wall 1 1/4" ID tube slide over top of it with the end cut at the correct angle .

slide the tube down the dowel and line it up onto the marked holes.you can see something is odd here .there are white shims between the 3/8" bearing plate and the mounting arm welded to the vertical arm of the jig.the mounting arm is welded to the vertical arm of the jig at 90 deg and its centre mounting hole is again centered to the jig .if you remember in the earlier photo with the stock test arm it does represent the length of a stock spring plate .that's all can say for now.
 if you dont own one go buy one of these level boxes , they are magnetic and are fantastic to work with .i think i paid under $ 25 up the road at lee valley for it .the complete jig is level in both directions and keeping things equal and square are a must when trying to duplicate left and right parts .here the 4" stub tube and the first diagnal tube are squared up .you can see the inner pivot and mounting plate centre hole lining up centered as well

tack the lower thin wall tube to the bearing plate

the lower bearing plate is again removed from the jig and the thin wall tube is cut leaving about 1 1/2" on the short side .simple now loosen the drill press bed .and wind it up against the 1 1/4" hole saw .it almost adjusts itself , well almost .snug up the height and bed angle pinch bolts and clamp the assembly to the drill press .test the setup by raising and lowering the hole saw into the tube , it should go with no binding .
drill away as the thin wall tubing is now the perfect hole saw guide .

test fitting a piece of the 1 1/4" dom tubing and it passes through no problem . it was decided to do this instead of welding to one side of the 3/8' bearing plate as welding from both sides as well as the tube passing through the plate would be allot stronger .

back to the jig and mount it all up again , square up the lower bearing plate as before , slide the new first diagonal arm into place and using the level box square it up .

sorry had to use a photo from the first arm , but i think you get it , same thing again using the wooden dowel for test fit and the thin wall tubing as a welded in guide .
remove again and mount back to the drill press as before and bore the 2nd 1 1/4" hole through the plate

something i have not mentioned is how difficult it was to design the arm and actually get room for the shock and 930 flange to clear and work together . i lot of sleep was lost over it but it all worked out .this shows the holes in the bearing plate drilled and the bearing housing bolted to the plate with the stub axle in place .just making sure it clears as it is tight.

the complete assemble was again removed, the 4 bolt holes for the bearing housing were marked and drilled . you can now see the fwd 4 bolt  holes , i will tell you the most fwd stock location one will go.

here it is the completed lower plate , wow that's a bit of drilling .its in the process of getting all the scale cleaned and prepped for welding .where the red marks are points i would bevel out more to allow for better welding penetration .

quick view, time to get it done . bearing housing bolted to bearing housing plate and shim blocks back in place

slide assembly over just till it touches the 1" shims and snug up that 1 centre bolt ,note the notched diagonal tubes prepped and ready to go

make sure its level

slip in the lower diagonal tube and 4" stub tube and square it up .tack it in place

install top diagonal tube and tack it in place

tig welded and left in the jig to cool

this is something i did not notice right away .the top pivot point was actually pulled down 3/16"
no problem its still all square and gives a bit more clearance to play with on the torsion tube

all done both arms .the finnished arm just needs to be trimmed and smoothed

« Last Edit: April 30, 2011, 06:57:23 PM by jim martin »




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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #227 on: January 28, 2012, 04:35:19 PM »
well to everyone that has sent me e-mails, FINALLY as promised looks like i will get around to finishing off the 2275 great canadian nitrous engine build.
that same 2275 motor has been a absolute workhorse and has taken a unbelievable amount of abuse not to mention its fair share of nitrous .
 since that build started that motor went through many changes as i worked towards my goal of running the ultimate strip/street motor.
i cant believe it but that motor may never be back in the "WOK" again but you never know as i'm not done with running nitrous .

 i was going to sell it complete . but ,when i pulled it out i had to pull it apart as i wanted to inspect the internals and see how things have held up and freshen it up as needed.
the 2275 is out and stripped down and all components look fine ,actually better than i thought with the only obvious issue is a couple of loose intake lifter bores.
i started by sending the case out to get 3 of the 8 lifter bore sleeves redone .and in true martin fashion it went completely south and has taken up to just this last week to get the case back , well at least to the boarder.parts are ordered and comp eliminators have gone to Darren's for inspection .the reason for worn already sleeved lifter bores is a combination of ceramic lifters and very aggressive custom cams with fast ramp angles.
the initial plan with the 2275 was to use a set of my old CB 044 heads with a cb2295 cam in place of the current comp eliminators with custom nitrous cam  ,but the 044 heads proved to be non repairable .so reassembly of the motor into a turnkey full street version was abandon .
which lead to the decision to build a new street/strip motor around the present comp eliminators, fk89 and 12.5-13.0 compression or a fk 87 and compression in the 10-10.5 range ........hmmmmmm
  will go with the fk87 which is more than fine on 94 pump and some street use and would be more than powerfull enough on the track with or without nitrous .i may need to break that motor in myself now that i think of it ,nothing seats rings better than some nitrous.

something else i will be putting together will be a 1956 cc street motor, using a 76 mm crank with 90.5 barrels and a Engle 110 cam and old school heads with dual springs and a set of 40 dells ,and a bunch of tricks and old school parts . should be a great runner with tons of torque.
this motor will be sold turn key ,thinking of using all the tin from the 2275 but will see how it looks and deside at that point as either motor would look great with it.
 and at present , i have my current busbox out for upgrades and a new 2442 motor coming that's just plain silly .
you will have to pick your favorite parts out as i have no idea what order its going to end up in .the shop is clean , parts are all on route so let the fun begin .
« Last Edit: February 04, 2012, 01:23:27 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #228 on: July 21, 2012, 08:36:23 AM »
well time marches on.
last year when i switched to my present bus box i also switched to a new gearstack .4.13 ring /3.44,2.08,1.44,1.09 this gearstack was desighned to allow my nitrous motor to pull longer and harder in all gears .but with the increased traction with my new suspension even with spraying a 75 shot off the line it would bog the motor down .trying to work a newgearbox/dual clutch with managment system and dial in suspension was a lesson in 2 steps fwd 3 step backward.
and in last trips out to mission test and tune the gearbox started making a loud whine so it was time to stop and pull the motor and gearbox before i break the new gearbox completely .
gearbox was in great shape except for some excessive backlash .
this is where the obssesion for more speed begins .
a new plan which includes a higher mph would included upgrades to my present motor as well as a yet another gearbox upgrade .
while planning the motor upgrades the gearbox was sent to our local expert Terry Hoogstins , for those who dont know Terry he is our local organizer of the super shifter event at mission as well as being one of the nicest and most knowledgable people you can talk to .
Terry completely d @a my gearbox and installed the new taller 3rd and 4th gears .THANKS AGAIN TERRY .
new gear stack is 4.13 ring 3.44,2.08,1.35,0.93 .hmm those should give you a idea where this car is headed.

gearbox has returned and waits for the next step .




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline Geoff

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #229 on: July 21, 2012, 02:58:01 PM »
I saw your engine pics this week, looking good!

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #230 on: July 21, 2012, 03:44:41 PM »
I saw your engine pics this week, looking good!
shhhh
its whats under the hood that counts




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline josh

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #231 on: July 21, 2012, 06:10:42 PM »
The Wok2??
55 ragtop T1
56 kombi T2

Offline Geoff

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #232 on: July 21, 2012, 07:05:58 PM »
Sorry Jim but secrecy isnt my thing.......Kevin already built a singleport turbo. I do like that your doing it with two Kadrons and propane. Dare to be different!

 :051bye:

Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #233 on: July 21, 2012, 08:17:26 PM »
Sorry Jim but secrecy isnt my thing.......Kevin already built a singleport turbo. I do like that your doing it with two Kadrons and propane. Dare to be different!

 :051bye:

the propane is the kicker. totally dual purpose. make a pass...head back to the pits...hook the extra line out to the bbq...and we be grillin'!!! :103:

Offline Geoff

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #234 on: July 21, 2012, 08:23:24 PM »
Better yet, lets cook pancakes at the GCVWS!

Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #235 on: July 21, 2012, 08:41:00 PM »
Better yet, lets cook pancakes at the GCVWS!

we could jack up the back of jims car, put in on stands, pull a wheel, hook up a belt and pulley drive system mounted to a couple of beaters in a mixing bowl, idle the car and mix some pancake batter! ;D

Offline Geoff

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #236 on: July 21, 2012, 08:59:11 PM »
At least he could get some seat time  lol_hitting

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #237 on: July 22, 2012, 08:59:23 AM »
grumble grumble , seat time grumble grumble .kick me while im down , grumble grumble pancakes grumble , facebook grumble .

well its true things are moving a bit slow ,but i will continue to look at the bright side , which at this point not sure what that is .

fuel cell was dirty so out it comes and since i needed some more tig practice i decided to weld on some fuel bungs
AN-12 in the sump and a 3/4"npt on top .
also i found a fuel leak and rewelded the bottom seam , good thing that c-16 has blue dye you can sure tell where leaks are .




suckered my youngest daughter into helping polish up the tank and mounting plate and now its off to the anodizers for military type 3 hardcoat .
« Last Edit: July 22, 2012, 09:01:44 AM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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Offline silas

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #238 on: July 22, 2012, 09:10:01 AM »
grumble grumble , seat time grumble grumble .kick me while im down , grumble grumble pancakes grumble , facebook grumble .

well its true things are moving a bit slow ,but i will continue to look at the bright side , which at this point not sure what that is .

rotflmao...

the wok with the new drivetrain and powerplant is going to be kick ass!! that tank looks cool too, cant wait to see that special hardcoat!

Offline jim martin

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Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #239 on: July 22, 2012, 09:19:20 AM »
this is what it may look like but i 'm sure it will depend on the aluminum and finnish




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
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