Author Topic: Jim Martin  (Read 163552 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline Cameron

  • *
  • Posts: 525
  • Karma: 1
Jim Martin
« Reply #180 on: December 16, 2005, 03:54:16 PM »
Tolerance is the amount of variation permitted on dimensions, or surfaces of machine parts. The tolerance is equal to the difference between the maximum and minimum limits of any specified dimension. For example, if the maximum diameter of a shaft is 2.000 inches, and its minimum limit is 1.998 inches, the tolerance for this diameter is 0.002 inch. By determining the maximum and minimum clearances required on operating surfaces, the extent of these tolerances is established. As applied to the fittng of machine parts, the word tolerance means the amount that duplicate parts are allowed to vary in size, in connection with manufacturing operations, owing to unavoidable imperfections of workmanship. Tolerances may also be defined as the amount that duplicate parts are permitted to vary in size, in order to secure sufficient accuracy without unnecesary refinement. The terms \"tolerance\" and \"allowance\" are often used interchangeably, but according to common usage, \"allowance\" is a difference in dimensions prescribed in order to secure various classes of fits between different parts.

I copied that from the machinist's bible, Machinery's Handbook.

The point I am trying to make is that VW (and all other auto parts manufacturers) try to keep their tolerances tight, but because of small inaccuracies in tooling and the machinery used to run cutting tools, there are always small variations in parts. Engine builders try and work around these variations. With VW cases, these variations are usually irrelevant. VW crankcases are flexible, you proved that with your torque test. Usually things can be out a couple of thousandths, and when you torque it up, everything comes into alignment. You can put a crankshaft between centres, push on it with your hand, and deflect it by 0.005. Once you start running 200HP through your case, things are moving all over the place anyways. Because of huge horsepower, and shock loads, the engine case and crankshaft are deflecting 0.010 to 0.015 inches. Probably more than that with really serious horsepower. I'm constantly amazed on how much horsepower we can run through these things!

With all the measurements made on your case, you have shown that most of it was within tolerance. You have not measured the main bearing line to see if it is straight, or on centre. Or from the centre line to the cylinder deck.

You are measuring your camshaft and lifters in a three jaw chuck. These chucks are notoriously not accurate, for being on centre. When you buy a three jaw chuck, the manufacturer supplies a card telling you what the runout will be, check yours. You should measure your camshaft in the case, on vee blocks, on rollers, or best, between lathe centres, because that was the way it was made. The way you are demonstrating is a very inaccurate way of measuring a camshaft.

These comments were meant as constructive critism, and not meant in a mean spirited way. I appreciate what you are trying to accomplish, but I wonder about your methods.  


It's an insane world out there... and I'm proud to be part of it!

  

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #181 on: December 17, 2005, 10:42:41 PM »
-cameron i welcome all input and am glad to see you have taken the time to look at things closely .
-as well if anyone has specific knowledge relating to something i'm talking about ,please take the time to post the information for all to read and benifit from.

---With all the measurements made on your case, you have shown that most of it was within tolerance. You have not measured the main bearing line to see if it is straight, or on centre. Or from the centre line to the cylinder deck. ----
-i have measured the enginecase main bore to see if it's straight using the feeler gauge under the straight edge/felt pen on the main bearings and spin test methods as well as torqued it up and ran the straight edge along both parting seams ,these ways are very crude but are not bad for a quick check,also before rocky bored my #1 main i had him reinspect the main bore and i believe he dropped a machined bar down the bolted case to check for alignment.i also have one other check for this but will bring it up later as its a so so deal but effective.
i did not add these photo's as they turned out very poor as you can imagine trying to hold a camera in one hand and perform a measuring task is not easy .
i will try to add these photo's when i finnish the case clearance/cleaning/oil galley/bearing pre fit information.
-cameron if you have a good method of measuring/checking the main bore alignment please post it as it is one of the most difficult things to measure.and i'd love to know it.
- i know some tasks are out of logical order ,but my main goal was to deal with the bent crank/seizing #1 bearing deal first.yes i agree the main bore alignment should of being coverd with the main bore measuring photos .but it just didn't happen.but you are right it needs to be coverd .

-crank centreline to cylinder deck will come soon i have to finnish resizing my rod bearings first,this was originally done and yes my case was out .015\" on the #3/4 side.

-with the camshaft photo's showing lobe taper and resizing  etc ,i had already finnished resizing the 3 camshaft main journals and taking all the measurments.and originally was planning to take photo's as i went along but did not want to grab my camera with my dirty oily hands so i figured i would take them at the end.unfortunately i  removed my cam and cleaned it then realized i forgot to take the photo's .so i quickly clamped it in the chuck and took the needed photo's.so yes work was performed using a live centre to support the camshaft at the one end as well as i used a dial indicator to make sure it was running true before work was performed.
-as for the lifters i lightly clamped them in the chuck with the dial indicator riding on the outer edge of the lifter face i slowly rotated the lathe chuck by hand and watched the needle on the dial indicator .making sure all the  lifters were all centred first before any measurment were taken.
-i now realize that someone my look closely at the photos and attempt  modifications using the photo's as a referance,this could be potentially dangerous or give bad results so i will make updates when time permits and show proper photos of the cam in the lathe using the live centre for support and accuracy.i'm sure you can imaging that taking some of these photos is not easy and they will need to be set up and taken after the actual task is done,but i hope the end result of what to look for is demonstrated.
- as far as my methods, i believe  my measuring methods are in good practice but my photo's need to reflect a more accurate representation of the event.i'm glad cameron has pointed it out.
if anyone else see's something that needs clarification ,please bring it up as i would like to keep the information i'm providing as accurate as possible.
-there is a few reason's i wanted to start this topic and one of them is to make people realise that you are dealing with 99% aftermarket parts when building a performance motor and what oem parts there are are usally modified and care must be taken apon assembley.as most manufactures build parts to there specs and not vw's specs.but it can be done.
merry christmass everyone!!!!!!

-this is my favorite photo and really represents what christmass means to the little ones.just look at those eye's
« Last Edit: December 09, 2008, 08:48:00 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline steiner

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 680
  • Karma: 2
Jim Martin
« Reply #182 on: December 18, 2005, 06:00:04 PM »
You guys have way too much time on your hands! I thought I wrote too much on this website!
1964 21 bus


Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #183 on: December 18, 2005, 08:01:07 PM »
Quote
You guys have way too much time on your hands! I thought I wrote too much on this website!
ti's the season and we are just giving the gift of information for all man kind to enjoy




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline steiner

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 680
  • Karma: 2
Jim Martin
« Reply #184 on: December 18, 2005, 08:48:55 PM »
You should write a book or something. The Idiots Guide to High Powered Aircooled NOS, ETC.........You could make some serious money here! I want 10 percent if it's a go!
1964 21 bus


Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #185 on: January 16, 2006, 10:51:28 AM »
well its been awhile and my short block is together ,so lets see if i can get us up to date this week.we left off with the cam now being able to spin freely in a fully torqued up case.so with all the crank/main bearing measuremants finnished, this points to a smooth rotating operation as well but lets make sure.
 what we are doing here is a final check for crankshaft  endplay /bearings and rotating assembley
 with the left case half exposed and all the bearing locator dowels in place,install THE BEARING YOU MEASURED ,NOT A NEW SET!!!.there is a reason.great example -since my #2 main split set was marked up from all my measuring i decided to use another #2 split set from the same manufacture and just replace them ,yes i did not measure them and i should of because with my crank in and the case torqued i noticed there was a initial effort needed to start the rotation then it was smooth . after i had measured my end play and took the case apart i noticed that there was a shinning surface on the outer edges of my new replacement split bearing set.so i bolted the case together and torqued it up . using my calibrated bore guage a noticed this set of bearings measured only .001-.0015\"radial oil clearance ,to tight.man good thing i double checked.so remember you spent all the time measuring with one bearing set ,so use them!!!!

if you have never installed a crank and bearing assembley it can be a little difficult to get the whole assemble to locate smoothly at times on the dowel pins
-first install your #2 split bearings and bolt the case together lightly,note how both bearing halves line up ,you will probably need to slide either of the bearings one way or another to get both ends to match,i use a long plastic rod through the #1 bore to tap either bearing to get both to line up.

  now that the #2 bearing are alighned take the case apart and install all the other bearings . lightly scribe the location of all the bearings in relation to the case half.


--i'm sorry my pictures of installing the #3 bearing and heating the gears and installing them are unviewable , i will try to do it again later on a old crank  and post some photo's soon------------------------------------------------------

take a look at how this split bearing is blocking half of the oil supplie hole in the case,will need to fix this.

lets measure the location of the #1 oil groove in the bearing in relationship to the oil supply hole in the case.first take your calipers and measure from the oil hole to the back part of the bearing web.and lock the calipers.

take the calipers and compare it on your bearing.no problem here its dead on the rear part of the oil groove in the bearing and the rear part of the oil supply hole are a dead match!

measure from the frt part of the oil supply hole to the frt edge of the bearing web and lock caliper.

when the measurement is compared to the groove on the bearing you can see 2 things,first half of the oil supply hole in the case is coverd as well if i lathed the bearing oil groove forward it would cut into the dowel pin hole.it was recomended to me to lathe the groove forward but,it was decided to only enlarge the bearing groove only at the point where it relates to the case oil supply hole.

marked out what i wanted to do and used a small round file on the #2 bearing ,remember its steel backed so its hard to file .
the #1 bearing was a bit more work but by trying a few things what worked best was a small bit in the dremel followed by a small sanding disc in the dremell to smooth it out.it turned out great even though the picture is a bit unclear and rough looking.
note the #3 bearing also recieved the same treatment as the #1 bearing.and the #4 was good to go

well now that we know we got the correct radial clearance and the bearings are going to get full oil pressure lets try the assembley in the case.install the crank assembley with all the bearings and torque up the case.
since your are using a wedgemated crank/flywheel special care is needed to avoid damaging the wedgemated surface.use one dowel pin in the crank shaft end to aid in alighnment of the crank and flywheel also pay attension to the position of the flywheel and the crank ,there should be some referance marks to get them together in the correct position and oil up the threads on the glad nut .i use a flywheel lock tool which i'm sure AIRSPEED carries them,and slowly tighten the gland nut up,i'm using a 2 foot long breaker bar on my 36mm socket. you could torque it to 50 lbs but trust me you will know when your flywheel is fully set against the end of the crank.leave the flywheel lock in place and set the magnetic base of your dial indicator onto the flywheel.set the needle agains the case and zero the dial.now all you have to do is grab the flywheel and gently move it back and fourth and note your endplay on your dial indicator
.well my calculate shim pack actually worked out!! i can't believe it!!i got damb near .007\" ,may tighten it up a hair.
 when you get a wedgemated crank from DEMELLO it  comes with the endplay marked on it ,mine  said that the endplay was .040\" so if i took my shims of .0345\" we get .0055\".so there is a slight differance ,thats why you have to check.but not bad

i did install the cam and crank with the oil pump and torqued it all up again one last time and again both the cam and crank spin beautifully with zero binding and no intial effort to overcome before rotating as before with the other split bearing.
so next is hanging some rod's and last check/clean of the case.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2008, 11:41:40 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline steiner

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 680
  • Karma: 2
Jim Martin
« Reply #186 on: January 17, 2006, 09:00:06 PM »
Jim, You are a God! I bow down to you!
1964 21 bus


Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #187 on: February 03, 2006, 12:41:06 AM »
this is a shot showing one of the SCAT h beam connecting rods i'm using.these are high quality pieces and there price makes them even more attractive when building a performance motor.once again i have tried to do my best to take more accurate photos,but its not always possible.lets check the rods and bearings.
the lenght is 5.394 \" which is determined by measuring from the centre points of the wrist pin bore and the rod bearing bore,the bore guage is used to measure the radial oil clearance of the connecting rod bearing after it is fully torqued up and the telescoping bore guage is used to measure the wrist pin bore.

the rod bearings i'm using are CLEVITE 77 ROD BEARINGS these are a high quality bearing that are made to take the shock loads in high performance/race engines.these bearings are standard vw rod journal size and were purchased locally at HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINES IN BURNABY.next time i will also use there main bearing set which i believe can be orderd with extra .001 \" oil clearance!!
you need to apply special supplied grease on 2 spots of the rod bolts,the reason is to reduce friction when torqing the rods ,that way a more acurate reading is given.

you have probably heard of so much discusion on rod bolt stretch ,since i don't have a actual arp rod bolt stretch gauge ,and for that matter have never used one i will show you another way to check your bolts.first you need to know that once something is tight any time you go past that point you are applying torque to the fastner ,which in the end causes it to stretch.don't stretch it enough and it could loosen or if you over stretch it it may snap.if i remember for these bolts when torqued they should have around .005-.006 inches of stretch.in fact i tested all mine and found one that stretched .008 so i have replaced the set.
rod bolts are very important .they are the only link keeping your connecting rods together during high rpm .you can imagine at times that the upper portion of the rod will try to seperate from the lower section do to inertial and load.that is why these bolts are extremely strong and have such huge tensile strength,around 190,000-200,000 psi.so acurate measurements are needed for reliable operation.
 each rod was assembled with a main bearing set installed .with the bolts lubed upboth bolts were snugged hand tight and measured.a point was taken on the micrometer scale and noted.in this case it ended up lineing up at .003\"

with the rod now supported in a pair of soft jaws in my vise its ready to torque up.this is very important as it will protect the rod and allow a secure way to hold when torquing.

torqued to 42 ft/lbs

once the rod is torqued again  it was mounted sideways in the vise and the bolts remeasured .in this case i have now .008\" .so .008\"-.003\"=.005\" stretch at 42 ft/lbs=ok!!

now i now this isn't the best way but hey if you use your head there are always more ways to do things,the reason there is a thick feeler guage on one end is just to give a level platform for the micrometer to sit against.notice the spot where i had clearanced the rods to clear my case.
since its all torqued i set my bore guage to my measurement from my spec sheet of the cranks rod journal diameter of 2.1647\"and measured the radial oil clearance of my rod bearings .good at just over .002\",again next time i would have this measurement first and have my crank ground to allow .003\" radial clearance

when ALL THE RODS BOLTS ARE CHECKED AND ALL THE RADIAL CLEARANCES CHEKED ON ALL 4 all parts were disassembled.
  there is a few more steps to go before those rods get bolted onto the crank,here we go.remember all parts will stay in the exact spot and will should never get mixed up during this process.
rod caps measured at 0.8925\"

after the measurement of the rod cap is taken i zero the caliper and transfer it between the cranks rod journal width,when the caliper is expanded it will give you a rough measurement for rod side play .in this case 0.016\"

measure rod bearings 0.6890\"

caliper measurment of rod bearing width is compared to ground surface on crank.note its pretty much the same so the bearings will need to be modified and rechecked.

you can see in this photo a better shot of the ground bearing surface width as well as the radius from the ground surface to the cranks webs.it is this radius that gives the crank its strenght against bending but is also causes a point for bearing contact.
one more time,a better photo showing radius/machined surface for bearing and machine width for rod side clearance.

since i know i have radial clearance and rod side clearance its time to closer check the bearings for contact with the crank radius.i apply felt pen to the top of each bearing sides,when the felt drys a lite film of oil is applyed to the bearins and the rod is assembled on the crank and torqued up to specs.
                                                                                                                    with the rod pushed against one side of the crank then the other side and rotated a bit back and fourth .once disasembled it can be inspected for contact.in this case you can see that the outer edge of the bearings do infact touch the crank radius.

a differant way to check is also to apply a small piece of plastiguage on the crank covering into the radius and with the large part of the conecting rod with one bearing shell installed in it place it into the d=crank fullagainst one side and push down squarly into the crank.notice the bearing edge contact point is at the very edge of the groung bearing surface.again just another way to double check for rod bearing contact.

now this time felt pen is aplyed to the sides of the bearings ,this will act as a visual guide.

this is how i modifie my bearings using a olfa knife.you can see i hold it at about a 45 deg angle and push the knife away from me.you need to practice on a old bearing to get this technic down first.

now you can see why the felt is needed it really helps keep things true.

both edges done.

holding the 600 grit emery paper at a 45 deg angle the cut edges are lightly sanded to make sure there is no sharp edges,then using brake clean the bearing is fully cleaned.

with the cleaned bearing back in the conecting rod cap the caliper is set to the bearing widt of 0.8925\" minus .015\" for side clearance and the bearing is checked to make sure it is narrowed enough on both sides.

now using the same plastiguage meathod as befor you can see the added clearance.now only 7 more bearing shells to go

now before the rods bolt up i always do one last trial fit and double make sure the bearing ends alighn,remember they can be moved to line up and its very important to check,also note the bearing tangs should locate down towards the cam.this is done for the reason of allowing more oil spill off to go directly back onto the cam and to the oil pan instaed of onto the case roof.

ahh my fingers!!!!nope just kiding,since everthing is good now and everthing is tripple checked a good dose of assembley lube is used on the bearing surfaces and the rod sides.now this rod is going to used for checking TDC/DECK HEIGHT /AND CASE CENTRELINE.all other rods were installed and checked for side clearnce and rapped up waiting for finall assembley.

as noted all rods had there side clearance checked this is done by having the rod fully torqued up on the crank and pushed to one side.i like to use 2 feeler guages in order to make sure it is contacting evenly.
this case this rode has 0.016\" side clearance.

i set this phot up so you can actualy see the rod side clearance as well as the way the #3 bearing sits[modified later for oil groove on the crank,very difficult]
the order in which it goes is #bearing/cam gear/solid spacer/brass dist gear/snap ring.
will try to get a picture of the #3bearing and end gear assembley from another motor when i get a chance as well as all lubes used.

good night
« Last Edit: December 10, 2008, 11:49:12 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline egspot

  • *
  • Posts: 3301
  • Karma: 0
    • http://www.cardomain.com/id/egspot
Jim Martin
« Reply #188 on: February 03, 2006, 05:45:42 AM »

This is a lesson and example  to some of us who would like to venture into that process. It is a keeper.

thanks,

Emilio

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #189 on: February 07, 2006, 11:25:24 PM »
thanks,finnally got around to finnishing things off on the previous post.
more to come.
 




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline Muffler Mike

  • Junior Member
  • Posts: 1
  • Karma: 0
    • http://mufflermike.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #190 on: January 12, 2007, 11:36:12 AM »
Jim
that is some awesome detail on build technique, etc.  :rockon:
If you havent already, you should whip up a web page with that info.
I put a lot of stuff on my page, but nothing with that much detail.
Keep up the great work
MM
Muffler Mike
http://MufflerMike.com

Offline Shane

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 5843
  • Karma: -2
  • FTG Racing
    • Pointblank Installations
Jim Martin
« Reply #191 on: January 12, 2007, 12:31:22 PM »
Quote
Jim
that is some awesome detail on build technique, etc.  :rockon:
If you havent already, you should whip up a web page with that info.
I put a lot of stuff on my page, but nothing with that much detail.
Keep up the great work
MM
The Americans have noticed you.... Well done Jimmy
 
FTG Canada
Brown Sugar
2014  8.97 @ 157mph

Offline James Buchan

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 6403
  • Karma: -51
Jim Martin
« Reply #192 on: January 12, 2007, 07:29:14 PM »
Who's this Muffler guy anyways?????  :lol:  

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #193 on: January 12, 2007, 09:54:22 PM »
Quote
Jim
that is some awesome detail on build technique, etc.  :rockon:
If you havent already, you should whip up a web page with that info.
I put a lot of stuff on my page, but nothing with that much detail.
Keep up the great work
MM
thanks mike and all others for the positive input !!!!!!!!!!
hmmm a web site :D  ,yes it is almost done !!!!!!!!that is a very good idea .will either upload it on there as well or link from it to here.

i'm pleased to see that so many find the information helpfull and i hope it answers many questions you may of had or never understood, and i tried to make it easy to follow along no matter what engine building level you are at.and i must admit it's been awhile since i had looked at this post and it was great re reading it again.

  the reason for the thread stopping was due to a sudden loss of all extra time i had ,2 young kids and one a newborn ,  starting a side venture , work, and the testing of new nitrous products filled all the time very quickly.
i have close to 150 images with about 20% of them edited.they pick up where i left off and end up with the instillation and tuning a special  nitrous system .
i must admit after bruce gave me the heads up today i did in fact pull out the disc with all the new images and text and have started putting some order to them,as well i'm sure you can all relate to the amount of time it takes to edit and add text to the photo's as well .so i promise i will make a effort in 2007 to pick up this thread again.with even more info and images

the motor is in fact still together and runs great on and off the bottle and there is allot more in it .it has proven to be able to take a constant pounding on and off the track and with way over 50, 100 plus mph nitrous assisted passes and countless icecream runs with my oldest daughter it has proven to be a excellent  street / strip combination  and constant work horse.
 
best time in almost full street trim (no frt passanger or rear seat ),weight with driver 1850 lbs ,evening track conditions ( slick) ,fan belt and all lights on has been 11.375 sec @ 119.37 mph.
watch for 3  even quicker dialed in performance nitrous cars this year.
  tip of 2006
if you don't want to break anything , don't race.
but if you want to learn something , RACE!!!!

turn up the volume and lets go 120 mph
http://dialedinperformance.com/images/nitrous_engine/test1.wmv
« Last Edit: December 09, 2008, 10:55:24 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline egspot

  • *
  • Posts: 3301
  • Karma: 0
    • http://www.cardomain.com/id/egspot
Jim Martin
« Reply #194 on: January 12, 2007, 11:22:59 PM »
Quote

if you don't want to break anything , don't race.
but if you want to learn something , RACE!!!!

turn up the volume and lets go 120 mph
http://members.shaw.ca/choptop3/jimscar3/test1.wmv
Thanks, that is a very expensive lesson and I sure appreciate it.

If I ever hit the jackpot a lot of racing will take place.
 
« Last Edit: January 13, 2007, 10:23:27 AM by egspot »

Offline silas

  • *
  • Posts: 6822
  • Karma: 20
    • Some cool videos...Check them out!!
Jim Martin
« Reply #195 on: January 13, 2007, 12:18:39 AM »
Quote
turn up the volume and lets go 120 mph
http://members.shaw.ca/choptop3/jimscar3/test1.wmv
ahhhhh....good times at mission. B)  

Offline John W. Kelly

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 56
  • Karma: 0
    • http://
Jim Martin
« Reply #196 on: January 21, 2007, 08:19:59 AM »
Great info Jim. Thanks for taking the time to write this article!

Offline erikaa

  • Junior Member
  • Posts: 1
  • Karma: 0
Jim Martin
« Reply #197 on: November 21, 2007, 03:14:12 PM »
Help - I was going to use this tread now that i am starting on my first stroker engine - but all the pictures are gone!  
Is it only in my end - or has something happened here?

Thanks!
 

Offline egspot

  • *
  • Posts: 3301
  • Karma: 0
    • http://www.cardomain.com/id/egspot
Jim Martin
« Reply #198 on: November 21, 2007, 03:56:00 PM »
Quote
Help - I was going to use this tread now that i am starting on my first stroker engine - but all the pictures are gone!  
Is it only in my end - or has something happened here?

Thanks!


No it is not you.

pm the owners of those pictures and they probably will be glad to e-mail the to you.

After a while everyone needs more space for other pictures.

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Jim Martin
« Reply #199 on: November 21, 2007, 10:14:40 PM »
wow almost 18000 !!!! thats got to be a airspeed record
i did not realise that so many had followed along ,let alone used it as a builders reference.

quite awhile back i switched out from shaw and over to telus and of course my shaw webspace was terminated ,but shaw had made a mistake and kept my links working for a few extra months.
before i stopped services with shaw i did copy all the pictures and text ,will either work on uploading pictures if i have telus webspace with my account or upload to my site.

 blueprinting and assembling highperformance vw motors .
maybe time for a paperback
« Last Edit: November 21, 2007, 10:21:42 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline Bullyboy

  • Full Member
  • Posts: 96
  • Karma: 0
    • http://
Jim Martin
« Reply #200 on: November 22, 2007, 02:22:30 PM »
There are a pile of people that I have referred to this thread.
I have my own copy saved to my computer and a couple printed copies that I make notes on when I am working.
perhaps we could convince you to finish the article all the way to a long block  :D  

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #201 on: December 11, 2008, 12:46:20 AM »
you asked for it so its back up once again .

in my very first posts i had mentioned this motor was being build as a test motor ,which i would use as a background for future engine builds .i have to admit it has lasted way longer that i ever expected , at present its still running and doing double duty at the track and the street .for me this was the biggest thing ,making a true street stip motor and i think i have done just that .a car thats comfortable turning low et's at the track and reliable on icecream runs.. since the thread stopped there has been many engine upgrades  ,  cam changes , piston changes, multiple ring packs  , 2 sets of heads , crankcase breather work , many custom nitrous delivery methods all these changes took place  while being sprayed with a absolute sick amount of nitrous and race fuel ,and still  enjoyed on the streets with familywhen the racing was done.
so what's next , the crank still has endplay  ,so its coming out this weekend .not for repair but for inspection ,there are many things i want to look at and see how they are holding up  , i.e. clutch and rod bearings  etc etc and of course .
yes, i will add a few more tricks.
this year at the track my time was limited and with the change  to 28mm bars and QA1 dual adjustable shocks at the rear, plus many motor and nitrous changes i never got to my goal as i was always fighting one change against the other ,of course right near the end of the season i did get the suspension to work and get most of the tuning issues with the upgraded motor figured out.
from a street start N/A it was running 12.7's and with a 50 shot 11.7's not to bad for a 50 shot !!!! i was very happy with this result as it showed the way i was applying the nitrous ,state of tune and engine combination was proving to be a good balance . plus i did it shifting bellow 7000 rpm and using all 5 gears !! , i even pulled a 140 shot run and all i can say is my wheels were still bouncing in 3rd gear .you know what they say ."THERE'S NO RIDE LIKE OXIDE".

over the holidays i will start going through the 250 plus pictures and see if i can pick up where i left off and hopefully cover the good and bad changes as well get up to date with the latest engine combo.

merry Christmas check back soon and enjoy a little sound track silas put together for me .
http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h162/SilasBancroft/the%20wok/?action=view&current=b8d323c1.pbr
« Last Edit: December 11, 2008, 09:28:31 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #202 on: December 28, 2008, 12:49:34 AM »
  after reviewing allot of photos i realized there are many images i'm missing , i will do my best to substitute when possible or update later. will use the original images previously taken up to the point of short block assembly ,then will try to use all new images based on the new top end.

lets get a oil pump fit to the block .
the pump i'm using is a aluminum body SCHADECK 30mm oil pump with a SCAT BILLET oil pump cover .just in case you did not now the 30mm relates to the length of the gears . for years i have used MELLING oil pumps which are a cast iron body ,but this time i wanted to go a different route and cut down on oil leaks at the pump. and after measuring the SCHADECK pump for fit ( see pages 11,12 ) its obvious the pump is machined to very high standard and  appears to be a quality product .also there is the argument that a aluminum pump expands and contracts at a closer rate to the case than a iron pump .so a better seal between the pump and case is maintained resulting in less oil leaks and better oil pickup . the pump is being modified to work with a external oil filter .for this reason the outlet of the pump and case will be tapped and plugged .this is where the SCAT BILLET oil pump cover comes in .it now allows the oil to be routed out of the pump and to a remote oil filter ,then after the filter the oils is rerouted back to the engine .

since earlier on the body of the pump was measured and fit to the block it's time to do the final check of the oil pump .
first a close inspection of the new oil pump cover shows there is some flashing left over from the cnc machining .this is easily cleaned up using a file and your sanding drum .
 
once the oil pump cover is cleaned up its placed on top of the pump assembly .using a feeler gauge (need image) between the pump cover and oil pump gears the clearance can be checked .i would hope for between 0.002"-0.003" .this pump was dead on a 0.002".just for the record the gasket between the cover and pump body will add another 0.004".
 
time to check and see if the pumps inlet and the case inlet match ,this is done by fitting the oil pump body to the case half that has the oil pick-up tube mounted in it ,then using a thin sharp pick through the pumps inlet scribe the pumps inlet shape into the engine case.once you remove the pump you can see if the two in fact match.if not using your DREMEL and a cutting bit carve out close to the scribed line and with a small sanding drum blend in and smooth the newly shaped opening.(need new image )
 

next on the list is to have the cam installed with the gear mounted with the washers and bolts you will be using.you can see that the 3 cam bolts just scrape my pump ,so we will need to file the back of the pump to give the clearance needed.i would like at least a 0.040" feeler gauge between the cam bolts and the pump .
 

also this is a good time to note and test your stud length for bolting the pump to the case .make sure you make studs that will allow for the increased length of the pump + cover+ gasket +nut and washer .in this case my new pump mounting studs needed to be 45mm in length over the stock 36mm.
i make all my own studs up using high quality threaded rod purchased at ( add source)
 

this shows the 4 NPT taps required to modify the vw case ,we will use all these later on .but for now grab the 3/8 NPT tap .NPT stands for national pipe thread .this is a tapered thread that actual seals due to the threads of both the male and female parts jamming together.NOTE :when tapping any NPT hole in steel or aluminum a tapping fluid (not oil ) is needed or the threads while being cut with the tap may become damaged ,also when test fitting the fitting or plug into a NPT tapped hole use oil or grease as the fitting may Gaul and jam in the newly tapped hole .this has happened to me more than once .also when tapping a NPT thread stop and test fit the plug or fitting often and when you get damb close tap 1/4 turn deeper at a time until you get the perfect fit .depending on the location and purpose either a special Teflon pipe sealant or loctite will be used to insure no leaks at the joint.

the outlet in the SCHADECK pump is the correct size and does not require drilling before being tapped.just take note of the stud in the picture
 

once the outlet is tapped using the tapping fluid ,and the 3/8 NPT plug has been test fitted it can be installed .i used some red loctite on the threads of the plug .this will make sure there is no leaks as well as make this plug remain perminent.you can see why we need to modifiy this stud before we file material off the pump to gain the cam bolt clearance .
 

its a very simple process .just as in the picture, use a 8mm bolt and soft jaws on one side to protect the pump face. align the 8mm bolt against the centre of the stud .and with very little effort press the stud 1/8" deeper into the pump body,now the material needed to clear the cam bolts can be easily removed .i used a big file and cleaned it up with my sanding drum.
 

now the pump is ready for service, have recleaned all the pumps parts ,bagged them and set them aside until its time for the short block assembley.





« Last Edit: December 29, 2008, 04:14:33 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #203 on: September 17, 2009, 06:31:57 AM »
have received alot of e-mails lately ,which means new motors are coming together .
here you all go




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #204 on: January 05, 2010, 06:17:30 PM »
i cant believe the amount of e-mail i still get for the engine build up thread . thanks .
glad so many are still using it .and wanting the conclusion

unfortunately when i switched from Shaw to TELUS i lost many of the photos that was needed to finish the build ,i do have at least 60% but it would leave it choppy and with to much info missing .and i would not want to leave items out .have some plans in the near future to finish it off but need to replace my tranny first .

i will be replacing my type 1 box with a 002 bus box as well as do the swing to irs conversion at the same time .while doing the research for this i have to admit gathering good info is slow and i will list everything i have learned .
so look for that coming soon




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #205 on: September 02, 2010, 07:55:16 PM »


 i can see light at the end of the long house Reno tunnel and that means i can finally start working on my car again very soon , good thing i have all winter .
after the great Canadian drags and not being able to run sure made me realize how much i miss drag racing my car .
yes again to everyone that e-mails me i will one day finish the engine thread , when that motor is taken apart for upgrades or maintenance .
last year was the bitter end for yet another 3.88 ring and pinion and when it let go in 4th it was a bit harry to say the least .
so i had 2 choices , back down on the power or upgrade and put the power to the ground .
there was no way i was going to back down on power so it was decided to do a major upgrade to the back of the car .
plan is to replace the type 1 berg 5 with a hybrid bus box ,perform upgrades to the brakes , suspension  , electronics , rear control arms , clutch management and a list of tricks I've been wanting to do .
have collected 90% of the components required and with the trans arriving tomorrow all the parts are almost here .
i have been slowly sneaking in a few minutes here and there and actually have the first test control arm finished and am very happy with the results .
like i said earlier in another post , half the battle is gathering information and i will pass on everything i have learned .
so stay tuned and lets install a hybrid bus box and perform a swing to irs conversion both with a slight twist .
« Last Edit: September 02, 2010, 08:15:56 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline silas

  • *
  • Posts: 6822
  • Karma: 20
    • Some cool videos...Check them out!!
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #206 on: September 02, 2010, 10:48:17 PM »
right on jim!! it's going to be a good winter!!  ;) :cool:

Offline jim martin

  • If something is priced to good to be true ,do yourself a favour. DONT be a IDIOT and BUY IT
  • *
  • Posts: 1406
  • Karma: 1
    • http://www.dialedinperformance.com
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #207 on: March 11, 2011, 08:00:20 PM »
where to start ?  its been a while
  Figured i would toss up a few pictures to give you a quick idea how its coming along .
the first 3 images show the finnished suspension at full extension (something new ,more info to follow), normal ride height and full squat .





and the other 2 images show kind of what's going on behind the wheel.




 I cannot even begin to list what's been modified to get to this point but i will try my best as we get moving along .
what i have done is made duplicates of all the parts used on the passenger side for the drivers side . so with all the hard work behind me i will start the drivers side from step 1 and post the progress.
i would like to thank local Bruce Tweddle for all information when i was starting and will post that info up later .
as well as all others on the Ultimate Aircooled Forum where i started the original build post and received excellent support from there core of racers that frequent there .especially Mike lawless for his time on the phone and e-mail support .

Why even go IRS ?? when you can put the stronger type 2 bus box in a type 1 beetle chassis and keep your swing axles using the Dave folts axle conversion and save allot of time and headache.

for me there was 2 main reasons , safety and engine bay clearance.
  if using the swing axle conversion ,both axles need to stay the same length , that's no problem as Gene Berg makes modified mounts that allow for direct instillation of the type 2 bus box into a type 1 chassis .what you may not know is that a type 1 gearbox is very unique , it is completely symmetrical , meaning the input shaft and shifter shaft are in a straight line .and the width ,axle flange to axle flange is equal distance to the centerline created between the input and shifter shaft ,just imagine a perfect cross.
  Where as the type 2 IRS bus box is asymmetrical .and the only reason a bus runs equal length axles is because the bus box is installed offset to one side .
SO , If you center the type 2 bus box in a bug the engine will fit in the engine bay, but you have to use different length axles side to side.
If you offset the the type 2 bus box using the Berg mounts you can use equal length axles, but the engine will be offset in the engine bay and may not fit .
my current motor is very wide ,and with future larger motors planned i cannot move the engine over the additional 3/8" to the passenger side.
 Also the Folts bus axle conversion is not recommended for street use as the inner cv joint is replaced with a domestic "U" joint and if it was to fail on the highway it could become a issue as there is nothing left to support the axle if the U joint failed  , at the track its not such a worry as the most likely place for failure would be at launch were it would be less of a concern .
  With safety and clearance being the deciding factor the decision was made to centre the type 2 bus box and run different length IRS axles .
now i started my list of what i wanted to accomplish while doing all this work .
-use my tig welder, anything that is removed is reinstalled but made lighter , disc brakes ,flatter tire contact , lower stance , more suspension travel in both directions .
     It is possible and so far i have managed to accomplish it all .

 take a look at this and you can see why i wanted a flatter tire ,not only is that hard on the axles its a obvious traction loss and was wearing the inside of the slicks

 the reason for the lower stance is obvious , before to get a needed flat tire i would have to raise the vehicle with my adjustable spring plates .

 the new 3" and change lower ride height with tucked in flat wheel at zero camber appears to be headed in the correct direction .


 i have gone through easily 8 plus test arms, uncountable test fits and adjustments ,made countless jigs and tools and compiled allot of information and much of it learn as you go and will post it up as it fits in .
« Last Edit: March 11, 2011, 11:46:25 PM by jim martin »




the 'WOK" June 2006 Hot VW's feature car  9.830 sec at 143.44 mph.
Sponsored by : LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS   www.lucasoil.com
KROC head porting services
Dialedinp

Offline silas

  • *
  • Posts: 6822
  • Karma: 20
    • Some cool videos...Check them out!!
Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #208 on: March 11, 2011, 10:16:29 PM »

Billyisgr8

Re: Jim Martin
« Reply #209 on: March 11, 2011, 10:20:48 PM »
That represents alot of work Jim..Good job.  I guess now you have to keep the sump off the pavement on launch now too.

It's nice to see you getting some time to work on it again.

Look forward to seeing you get it down the track this year.

Kevin