Alright...what IDF linkage?

[owdlvr]

I've played and played, there is no way I'm going to get full throttle on this set without either a) changing the linkage or b) redesigning the accelerator pedal. I've got about 7/8 throttle, but that's not to the stops!

What linkage set/design actually works well?

-Dave

[Chris]

Had similar issues with my setup, went with this linkage

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31-129-941-110

Works great, was able to sync the carbs up well.


You need to change the length of something in your setup to increase the travel, what linkage are you using now?

[somevwguy]

this is the set up thaat I'm using on my type IV with IDFs

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/product.php?productid=16956&cat=383&page=1

works very well and is easy to set up, but it is the most expensive linkinge out.

[Geoff]

I vote your outa the club.... That car should have IDA's

[52 split]

could you show a pic of your current setup.

[owdlvr]

this is the set up thaat I'm using on my type IV with IDFs

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/product.php?productid=16956&cat=383&page=1

works very well and is easy to set up, but it is the most expensive linkinge out.

I've was looking at the Sync-Link units before you mentioned it...only reason I'm not super stoked is that it looks like a pain to remove for engine pulls? Having the D/S carb wheel relying on wrapped friction isn't ideal...but I could certainly live with it.

Current setup: (click for full size if your browser has shrunk it)



Since the above photo was taken I have swapped out the return springs for ones in a different location (which actually return the linkage to the idle stops), and I've moved the throttle cable into the second hole on the arm to get more throw.

-Dave

[owdlvr]

I vote your outa the club.... That car should have IDA's

...didn't see you offering up a set

-Dave

[somevwguy]

this is the set up thaat I'm using on my type IV with IDFs

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/product.php?productid=16956&cat=383&page=1

works very well and is easy to set up, but it is the most expensive linkinge out.

I've was looking at the Sync-Link units before you mentioned it...only reason I'm not super stoked is that it looks like a pain to remove for engine pulls?
Having the D/S carb wheel relying on wrapped friction isn't ideal...but I could certainly live with it.

The D/S wheel attaches to the cable going to the peddal and there is a second cable going to the other carb, If you pull the cable off the wheel it would easly go through the hole in the shroud.

[owdlvr]

ahhh...twin cables. Got it.

Steep entry fee, but that might just be the way to go.

-Dave

[somevwguy]

ya twin cables, here is how they attach to the wheel,



the cable ends attach with a small allen key.  The cables are just cable no fancy ends like the normal accelerator cable. the other thing I like is that is bolts to the gas pedal, also its one solid piece of housing from the pan to the carb

[Darren]

CSP Center pull !  ( you will have to put your coil back in the stock location..............)

[BUSDADDY]

Why not just move the cable up in the center arm an inch?, shorter fulcrum=more travel at carbs.

[owdlvr]

Why not just move the cable up in the center arm an inch?, shorter fulcrum=more travel at carbs.

Since the above photo was taken I have swapped out the return springs for ones in a different location (which actually return the linkage to the idle stops), and I've moved the throttle cable into the second hole on the arm to get more throw.

-Dave

The cable already binds where it is...can't move it up into the top hole.

[BUSDADDY]

Isn't that what drills and files are for? (watch out for the oil cooler), can't be any worse than changing to an entire new linkage and the new problems that could create.

[owdlvr]

Isn't that what drills and files are for? (watch out for the oil cooler), can't be any worse than changing to an entire new linkage and the new problems that could create.

Lol, did you see my build thread? I am literally dying without anything to do here. hahahaha.

Well, okay, there is a growing list of items to move onto...but I'm currently planning out "phase two", and the linkage is part of it.

-Dave

[70's Looker]

hope you havent tried this yet, but go with idas simple



no kidding, but from your photo, could you not try bending the bracket that bolts to the carb making it a real 90, and then adjusting the cross bar to fit this new angle, perhaps there is just enough angle there to cause a bind, i have never used hexbars, or ever really gave them much of a look, baker used the csp push pull on his 36er smooth and sure fun to play with, that engine still has not run so dont know about tuneability

[70's Looker]

wait no, i was type thinking, that wont work! i will think and then type next time