jumping out of 1st

[hank]

Howdy Gang,
on our '58 splitcase transaxle in our single cab 40hp.

I pushed the clutch pedal down and it felt weak and yet I still tried to put it into in 1st
it ground a bit, I only tried once.
Thinking that the clutch needed adjustment I adjusted it and it still felt the same so I looked below the pedal and saw that the cable was only holding in with one strand.
When I did the clutch cable I checked the oil level and added a little ( one of those marine outboard leg squeeze tube 90w)until it ran out.
The transaxle worked perfect until the one grind I gave it.
Now it will pop out of first as soon as I let out the clutch.
I tried to adjust the shifter base to see if that was the problem.
still pops out.
I have the tools and a '55 type 2 workshop manual with a complete section on how to tear the transaxle apart.
But not sure what to look for when I get it apart.
Is there a adjustment that I can do from one of the caps on the left side of the transaxle?
Is there anybody out there that does a split case tranny in Vancouver area.
We use the single cab as a farm truck and find it perfect for a lot of the small jobs.

thanks
hank

[vwguy]

Hey Hank, Sounds like your low range gears are mashed out of it, to many years of mashing it int first gear. your going to have to pull it apart.


  Jimmy D

[72vwtype2]

Hi Hank,

I know there are a few asf members that do good tranny work. I am not sure of there experience and/or comfort level with working on split cases. Many "split case" cars have had their crashboxes long replaced with more modern trannies.

I have been doing some research, as I to have a split case that needs to be checked.  Apparently Ed at the Bug Shop uses an "oldtimer" that has lots of experience with crash box trannies. This guy is in Kelowna. If you are still searching you may want to contact Ed for more details.

Good Luck, Phil.

[pittwagen]

Just to confirm, what is the year of the single cab and do you happen to know the serial # of the trans (passenger side in front of the axle almost to the nose cone mount area - flat surface) that is in the unit now?  There are some different options for you depending on your budget and how original you want to keep it.

I went through this many years ago on an early 59 van so I may be able to give you some ideas at least. 

[hank]

Thanks for the replies guys
this single cab was built in Dec.'58
I'll climb under and see the serial #
cheers
hank

[pittwagen]

One other thing I should have mentioned when you are under the bus.  Have a look at the trans nose cone mount.  It should be the horse collar mount but who knows as it could have been changed to the later style.  Here is the best reference I could find quickly.  The horse collar goes around the nose cone area near where the hockey stick emerges.  The other mount has 2 bolts with the mount shown at 2 in the diagram below.  Very similar to a beetle mount.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/transmissions/bus_mounts.cfm

My van was an early 59 with the pressed bumpers (no over riders) and it had the horse collar mount.  If you have the later mount your options will be much easier.

[Bruce]

It's hard to believe that one attempt to engage the gear could damage it that far.  You would have had to really lean on it.
Is the shift rod coupler loose?  What about the rest of the shift rod linkage?

When you adjust the shifter, slide it back a bit.  That may help.

As a last resort, you could adjust the fork on the shift rod.  It is accessed through one of the two plugs on the left side of the gearbox.  Have a catch bin ready, you're gonna lose some oil when you pull the plugs.

[pittwagen]

We should have asked how noisy 1st gear was.  Repeated shifts to 1st while moving without double clutching will totally destroy the case hardening on the mainshaft gear but I agree with the shift fork issue - had it happen!  They do come loose.  Could be the detent springs/balls as well.

All in all the trans could be just plain worn out and a conversion to a full syncro might be the most cost effective way to go after 50 years.  It is a lot more practical if you are into the rough stuff as well.  That's what I did along with a 1 ton front suspension.  Worked well for years.

However if you are a purist, the parts appear to be out there.  Just make sure the money tree is well stocked!!

[hank]

I'm afraid that I did "lean" on it when it ground but I stopped pushing pretty quick after the first noise.
No problem shifting and staying in gear before the clutch cable broke
transaxle # is A2026259
I have another trans # A2626185 no Idea what condition.
I didn't notice the F/mount - I'll climb under again tomorrow.
I was wondering about adapting a newer bug trans to the reduction gear axles (and flipping the ring gear)
I can get a bug tunnel type '60's trans and have a lead on a type 3 4 speed.
I do want to keep the reduction gears but not to crazy about the bleeder on the bottom wheel cylinders brakes.

More interested in having a good running truck than a 100% stock
thanks for the advice
hank

[pittwagen]

Go for the syncro bug 4.375 trans with your old axles.  This ratio will be very close to what you have now.  The T3 ratio will not be as low geared.  

You will need to fab a new front mount (I'm pretty sure you have the horse collar mount) and get someone to check the differential side play as it might not be in spec when you flip the ring gear in the full syncro trans.  Lots of work but well worth it.  

I'll see if I can find a how-to.  Must be out there!!

edit:  found it - check the Samba split bus forum under tunnel transmission into split case.

[hank]

thanks pittwagen

[72vwtype2]

Hi Hank,

How are you making out with your tranny? Are you trying to fix it, having it fixed or replacing it? Just curious to see if you found anyone decent to work on it.

Thanks.

[hank]

I haven't done a thing to it yet. I have a couple of other projects to finish first then
I have a 2nd split case that I'm going to tear down just to see what is in it.
I'm still looking for the answer
hank

[hank]

I was thinking that it might not be the transaxle but the shifter and tried messing with it as Bruce suggested .
I have a Hurst bus shifter on our '68 bay and wonder if it would fit in the '58
it shifts like a dream in the bay but would it fit in the split?

[pittwagen]

You are going to have to measure the shift ball.  I suspect yours will be smaller (straight shifter) than the one on your bus and if so you would need to change out the linkage.  But if you have the trans out and the splash pan off!!

The Hurst shifter install doc is on the Samba (Tech section).

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/hurst_bus_shifter.php

When you looked through the inspection plug (closest to the bell housing) on the side of the trans was there any evidence that the shift fork had moved.  The shift rod would be quite shiny for perhaps a 1/4" on one side or the other of the fork.  I had this happen with the 3/4 shift fork on a split case (jumping out of gear) and it was quite evident what the problem was.

You still may be able to salvage the trans.  The critical thing will be the condition of the mainshaft 1st gear - how much it is worn down.  If you have another trans - who knows, mix and match.

Man this brings back a lot of memories. 

[hank]

Howdy,
 I pulled the shifters out of both rigs and see that the '58 has about a 15mm ball end and the ball on the end of the Hurst shifter from the bay is about 22mm.
 It does look like I could cut both shifter ball ends off and weld the smaller on to the Hurst but I might just end up screwing up both shifters
Shop is full now so I'll have to wait to peek in the inspection hole on the trans.
thanks for the spirtual advice
hank

[hank]

With the shifter off I put the shift rod socket where I figured 1st was (back and to the right) with a screwdriver.
started the mighty 40hp engine and let out the clutch.
 I started and stopped a couple of times with out any  grinding or kicking out of gear.
so I cleaned and greased the shifter and put it back together--it kicked out as soon as I let out the clutch.

the problem has to be in the shift linkage-- adjustment
I'm going to remove the shifter and try again.

Anybody know if there is a bushing on the shift rod or just the spring plate --it's too wet to climb under it outside here in the frozen swamp.

hank

[owdlvr]

Howdy,
 I pulled the shifters out of both rigs and see that the '58 has about a 15mm ball end and the ball on the end of the Hurst shifter from the bay is about 22mm.
 It does look like I could cut both shifter ball ends off and weld the smaller on to the Hurst but I might just end up screwing up both shifters
Shop is full now so I'll have to wait to peek in the inspection hole on the trans.
thanks for the spirtual advice
hank

Not sure about the '58, but the late model shift rods are hardened steel.

Not that its a big deal...but nice to know before you start cutting!

-Dave

[hank]

[/quote]

Not sure about the '58, but the late model shift rods are hardened steel.

Not that its a big deal...but nice to know before you start cutting!

[/quote]
Thanks Dave
I changed my mind about hacking the two shifters

I looked up how to adjust the shifter in a 1955 transporter manual and was making the mistake of not having the shifter vertical in neutral
I adjusted it today and seems to be OK but I get out of first as soon as possible.

thanks for the help guys
hank

[pittwagen]

That is the correct way.  I don't have a bus Bentley but my old Clymer manual says that is the method.  If you check on the Wolfsburg West site you will see a detailed description of the bus shift linkage with the various pieces that are available.  Here is the link. 

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/chassis/bus_chassis.cfm

Now that I think of it and having seen the pics, I recall in one of my vans the shift rod bracket was broken or the bushings were shot and it was a bear to shift.

[hank]

Just a update we put many km(miles) mostly in low gear in the last week and it never popped out once
hauling sawmill ends to the woodshed
hank