some of these photos are bad and i will replace them later,this info is what works for me and my car with a ball join frt end,its tested too 120mph[not recomended] and is stable.i will show a few ways that you can check your alignment at home with a box of beer and some simple tools.i worked on this alignment at work last year for 2 days and put the car into ever angle i could imagine as too represent accelerating and braking forces at the frt and rear and will proved a list of specs later on if needed
first frt end terms ,theory and frt end
you need too know these 3 thing first, very important !!
*frt TOE-IN decreases as vehicle frt raises-good !!!
*frt CASTER caster increases as vehicle frt raises-very good !!!
*frt CAMBER no change throught suspension range-excellent !!!
-what is TOE-IN ?easy stand up and look down at your feet ,now move your big toes toward each other,now for a moment imagine yourself hanging over your car looking over your frt wheels.same thing ,TOE-IN or if you moved your big toes away from each other ,that is know called TOE-OUT.we need TOE-IN for one reason ,which is too compinsate for road force.basicaly as the car moves foreward this will force the frt wheels too spread apart.so wee need too compisate with TOE-IN so at speeds the frt wheels will not be driven to a dangerous TOE-OUT position.clear so far? CASTER is huge!!this is what gives your car stability at speeds !!!!!!!!!!
this is everthing ,when you go shopping and you notice that evertime i turn my shopping cart that one wheel with the triangle always turns and tracks .same kind of idea.stand on the floor looking down at your feet and bend your knee's past your big toes.you just created POSITIVE CASTER.that squated position is stable and so is POSITIVE CASTER.this term is best described when looking at the frt wheel from the side as the forward tilt of the steering axis from true vertical.what?all you will have too know for a beetle is when the lower torsion tube of the frt suspension sticks out farther than the top one ,thats POSITIVE CASTER and is good. frt CAMBER =road holding grip in corners ,this is easy again stand up now your feet are the bottom of the tire were it touches the road and your knees are the top of the tire which is dirrectly at the top part under your fenders.bend your knees towards each other.you have just created negative camber,this simpley means top of the tire tilted in toward centre.most peoples rear suspension has that effect when its lowerd -if you are going too check your car you need too first get the complete car up on jack stands and level frt to rear and side to side , i like putting a level on the door sill and.you may need too move the jack stands back off the frt tubes so you can get a level onto the lower tube of the frt end
frt CAMBER first
this is the real vw tool for checking all angles on the car that you see in the bentley manuel.i know its hard too read but its a hair below 1/2 deg positive camber
since i'm sure that many don't have one you could use a spirit level .again as in the photo's steer the wheels straight ahead and clamp/hold against the disc or drum straight up and down.the bouble should just touch the line in the positive way -top angling out!you can see the 19mm nut just below the knuckle which you can loose then turn the top large thin nut too get you angle right ,check both sides.
CASTER im sure everone has lowerd there frt end .looks cool but man is it dangerous.like i said the bottom tube has too be farther out than the top tube.and when you lower your car guess what the lower tube tucks under the top tube which reduces CASTER-BAD.easy check! put a jack under the frt beam and jack your car up with a spirit level on the door sill,stop when car is level.now slide under your car and put the same level against the top and lower beam,is the lower tube farther out .? hope so.how much that all depends-stock is about a 3-4 positive caster which if you have the hand vw guage is checked like this
you cant see it but its reading 10 deg -thats a tonn but like i said as the car is lowerd you loose frt caster and for me it comes out too 8 deg positive caster-whats safe 3-4 deg =80 mph /5-6 =90mph/7-8 =100mph the more the better.
on a vw you use caster shims to push the lower tube back out again if its been lowerd,one set for the street.two sets min for the track.me i have 4 sets stacked,you can check the frt caster with a spirit level like this
you can see that the top tube is 1 1/4 inches back from the lower tube.so if we divide 1 1/4 inches into 10 deg we get 1/4 inch per 2 deg .im sure you can figure it out ,if you need too change this adjustment you will need special length bolts and shims ,i'm sure you know were too find them.
checkin your FRT TOE-IN. doing this in the car will be alittle more difficult ,but if you are on a budget this is how too do it,first with the car raised ,level and supported you will need too make a tool -bar -steel or wood and a ruler.first step put it between the frt edge of the frt tires like this
now extend the ruler until it touches the other tir and clamp it
you can see i have 7 3/4 inches shown on the ruler.
now put the same guage at the rear
extend the ruler and note measuremant.in this case 8 inches
subtract the 2 and you get 1/4 inch POSITIVE TOE-IN thats good and like i said it will decrease as the suspension rises.what number's are good
1/8 TOE IN/0-.3 POSITIVE CAMBER/AND AT LEAST 6 DEG CASTER .so you see you can do a home alignment if needed ,remember your car needes too be level in both direction too do this with some sort of accurasy.please follow the bentaly manuel and ask for help if needed as there is a lot more going on than you can imagine.remember safety first build it safe the first time.hope this info helps explain a few things let me know if it makes sence.
now for anyone who has access to a alignment machine and wants the input data too run your own program let me know and i will post it as well if you would like any more specific info or pictures let me know and i will see if i can help
