AirSpeed VW Community Forums

General Forums => Member's VW's => Topic started by: jim martin on January 14, 2004, 01:24:47 PM

Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 14, 2004, 01:24:47 PM
its nice too put a car too a name so here is some photos of my car in primer. earlier pictures ar during the 3 month shake down and test before finall disasembley for paint.seams too be the long way to do things ,but if your not in a rush its the best way.many unexpected things have popped up during those 3 months and i'm sure glad it wasn't painted .i've had the car over 23 years ,and in 1983 i chopped it 4 1/2 \" then ran the car hard each summer for3-4 years going through at least 2-3 engine combos a year.finally i just parked it as i was plagued with mechanical problems and was just sick of working on it ,so i wrote a note of everthing that needed inproving and repare ,tossed it on the passanger seat and parked it.in 2002 i lifted the cover and got rehooked again,so i took the note and went through everthing and came up with a plan .which pretty much meant picking up where i left off years earlier ,included this round -rechop body to 5 \"/fix everthing i hated/run to vw 2003 car show in coquitlam/run 70 hp shot of nitrous /and have fun doing it!made good on all items.car was run very hard for 3 months and held up very well.all work was performed by myself except for the body filler work and the rancho trans.thanks too all that helped with info or a hand when i needed it.I OWE YOU all  a ride in the spring of 2004 .
car runs a 2275 motor/5 speed trans/old school centre lines/cage and a glass nose [NOW CONVERTED TOO STEEL].see you on the streets in 2004 ,now i need to pick a colour?
jim martin,vancouver
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0905_resize.jpg&hash=e5c7a53a4446cc01aaaa69d1e1ed580ff88d8b01)
engine area i like the old school look
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0904_resize.jpg&hash=ab3dd5347322573f509bc9cdffb407e957fa9d9d)
shot at work , had too bring the car in that day as one tech challanged me to a race after hours,poor bastard another mazda goes down easy.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0895_resize.jpg&hash=0e7544cde4de518dbd086821f1fb05576045d01e)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0899_resize.jpg&hash=5f2c7888a6eb8d84bed5cf9c484ac7f2d1e51ab7)
breaking in the motor on the test stand,a fresh motor always sounds good
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0865_resize.jpg&hash=4d2dc3003baf38b7649e4cfca498d85c1a1eb455)
its a shame too pull that motor out again
now i just need a colour?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on January 14, 2004, 02:55:45 PM
Nice Jim,
Car looks great B)
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on January 14, 2004, 02:57:27 PM
I just gotta learn how to post pictures now
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on January 14, 2004, 03:53:05 PM
hey jim,

that is a great looking car. i've seen you cruising cambie street w/ a car seat and child in the back. damn... lucky kid.

i've got your # from a previous post, i'll call you soon, just super busy these days.

cheers

silas
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on January 14, 2004, 04:08:34 PM
Lookin good Jim, Is that your shop with the hoist?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 14, 2004, 04:35:20 PM
yes silas, thats me and my daughter ,she loves the 'white car' as she calls it .i just put earphones on her and she's good to go.i even let her push the nitrous button once.yes call me any time .
yes james that is the old alignment hoist i'm on at work .being foreman has it perks at times.
some pictures are at work and others are at my house,the one with the engine on the stand is during camshaft break in.that was a great day too hear another motor come too life!its been too long !!!!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: kombination on January 14, 2004, 09:58:21 PM
Nice looking bug Jim.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on January 14, 2004, 11:00:52 PM
Looking good Jim.  So was it an rx7?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on January 14, 2004, 11:01:25 PM
hey jim, i'll try and call you tomorrow eve. (thursday).

how about a medium blue metal-flake or metallic, like the colour of the lightning bug that the shley brothers used to run? i'll try and find a pic to post.

talk to you soon.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on January 15, 2004, 12:07:48 AM
this pic doesnt really do the colour justice. but something like this.


(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F120631.jpg&hash=ec9b1075d24340a7ccb6a7a74a7dc31d11ad839b)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 17, 2004, 08:07:01 PM
yes hansk it was a rx7,kind of funny he came too challange me on his day off.stayed a couple of hours for some bitch talk , then the next day my car was inside on the hoist all day ,and the poor bastard must of come and gone 4-5 times too go home and pull parts out of his car,he even removed the left and right door glass,he still can't believe it ,but he vows, now he has a mission too wip my car and has a lot of tricks,who cares!so do i.
this race was dubed the battle of  \"THE WOK\" VS \"THE BENTO BOX\"rice is easy to fry .yep silas the lightening bug is cool ,what ever colour i paint it it has to match a brick red interior,have lately been leaning towards black or polar silver .kind of funny the whole time during construction i never even thought about colour?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on January 18, 2004, 12:49:45 AM
HA HA!!!! Right on Jim!   I guess thats been the thing all
these years, how people so completely underestimate the
performance potential of a little old VW, and then are so
completely devastated when it happens to them.

Maybe our little old VW performance industry is directly
responsible for the performance industry of many other
types of cars......hmmmmm?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 18, 2004, 07:43:21 PM
you know what happens is people who don't know, or think they know something about performance.figure it's a v8 so i will chuck some headers and a 4 barrel on it's the fastest  thing out there, or in the newer cases i will put a big 4\" muffler and a whale tail and watchout .but they have no idea about the basics-first being power to weight ratio,thats why its so easy too pull the majority of old american muscle cars ,and with  rice rockets they simply have no torque ,most people's idea of a vw is slow as well as the driver is stoned to the bejesusbelt.well the second might still be true with some .this summer i had the privalage of showing up many vehicles ,some got beat so bad they would rather turn off a street early so they would not have too pull up beside you at the next light.next year my racing will be at the track.now i need a new truck/trailer/paint
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Pipes on January 20, 2004, 11:07:19 AM
OH WOW!  Your car is sooo close to perfectly what I want!

Just sooo awesome.  As far as a colour suggestion goes.  If it was mine, it'd be black with blue ghosted flames, or thin silver flames...  If I've ever seen a bug that deserves flames, thats the one...  :rockon:   Awesome work! I hope to see in on the road soon!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 20, 2004, 07:36:16 PM
thanks for the thumbs-up pipes!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Stephan Schmidt on January 26, 2004, 04:19:09 PM
nice ride!

are you going to be running it this year?

stephan
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 26, 2004, 08:12:04 PM
for sure it will run again this summer,i will start working on it in feburary,sorry sking still comes first in this house. the plan is too be a regular at the friday drags at mission.i'm addicted too the big blue bottle ,again!!.
also those small brown ones are nice too!
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: OUTKAST on January 27, 2004, 02:59:36 AM
THE LOOK OF THE CAR FROM THE REAR WITH THE MOTOR LOOKS GREAT I'D SAY ALMOST INTIMIDATING IF SOMEONE PULLED UP BESIDE YOU . YOUR HARD WORK PAID OFF. HOW ABOUT A DARK PURPLE?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 27, 2004, 01:30:55 PM
thanks outcast.black with a hint of purple would be nice,!!
also as far as looking intimidating from the rear,i'm hoping thats all
most will see of the car!!!maybe i will send a shot to the new dglvk and see
if i meet there need for speed requiremnts
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on January 27, 2004, 04:06:36 PM
www.dglvk.com
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 28, 2004, 05:15:57 PM
james i will have too get a resume together.haha, . so have you and your other members sat down and hashed out what you are looking for in members and there cars etc.
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on January 28, 2004, 05:51:02 PM
Pretty much - It should be on our website in the next little while. I'll post when Shane updates the site.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 30, 2004, 02:58:42 PM
i'll check your site later on next month ,for years i've been the  lone vancouver chopped rodder ,i'm getting lonely . maybe a club is what i need .or most likely need my nanny too get her tail back from the damb phillipines so i can get on with my projects !!!.p.s always check the date. when your nanny says shes going on holidays from the 9th to the 31st make sure  its within the same month. man i obviously pay her too much if she can leave for 2 months.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: aircoolednewf on February 18, 2004, 05:31:52 PM
Hi jim the car looks awesome, you have everything done that I dream of doing some day. I think that since you have already raced it white, than it should stay white. you could add a little gold metal flake and it'll bring the white alive.
 Now about my chop, you're kinda scareing me, but I already cut the top for just this reason. There's no goin back. I have a guy that says he can do it for me and I am confident he can. He's tradeing the labour for a set or realistic flames on his t-bucket, sounds good to me. but if we have any trouble you can be sure that I will drive you crazy with questions.
 Again, beautiful job on the bug( what year and where did you get the glass front).
 Later David
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 18, 2004, 06:17:37 PM
no problem if you need help you can find me here,frt end is so old i don't even know where i got it from,car was originally a 68  .
good luck ,take it slow and it will come together
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: aircoolednewf on February 25, 2004, 07:26:48 PM
hey Jim, quick question for you. There is a roof for sale, with the chop already done, would this be a better aproach to doing my chop, or am i better off continuing as planned?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 25, 2004, 10:13:51 PM
might not be a bad way too go,i just saw it in the classifieds,i think its a great option,if you can weld thin guge steel ,grafting this as well as reparing the drip rail should be a snap,i think he said he had the doors,as well i remember seeing that car on the road .
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: btljuce on February 26, 2004, 09:14:28 PM
that's a great looking car jim!!! B)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 26, 2004, 10:32:21 PM
thanks btljuice, it doesn't look so good right now its stripped and i hope to graft a nose on it this weekend then seperate the body and pan,
last summer was fun ,now its time for stage 2 !!!!hopefully i will get it painted soon.just i'm hurting for spare time at work as well as home . i brought my camera home this weekend i think i might take some photo's of the progress this time
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 01, 2004, 08:32:38 PM
well screw the flip frt end here comes good old german steel.
first picture is the donner piece from shane .its blasted and in not bad shape.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0956.jpg&hash=68407d9ea71b27ac22989127f5c2bd61272f12ab)
and here is everones worst fear rust .thank god this is the worst of it.so i cut it out and will treat inner area and patch in cut out section ,then the frt clip will go over top and vola all hidden.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0955.jpg&hash=22d99b73b4a34622b6db698dc84a238aa73957e6)
if anyone is ever doing a frt clip call me there is alot of things that are of a major concern.
also alot of metal has too go for my fuel cell .well no rules on a custom.so you can do what you want, and its always right.will pick up fiberglass hood /fenders from airspeed this friday.then trial fit /tack together/body off pan.
hey silas i thought i was going too hear from you.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on March 01, 2004, 08:48:13 PM
Looking good Jim! Keep us up to date as it comes along. See you Friday!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on March 02, 2004, 09:50:56 AM
my weekend was a blur. work and helping a friend move and family visits.

i'll call you this week. i wouldnt mind seeing whats up this coming weekend w/ the car.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 08, 2004, 01:30:17 PM
after a stop in on friday morning at airspeed to pick up a fiberglass hood and fenders  ,it was time too rush home to get a couple of hours of work in,
-here is the finnished patch -worked out great
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0962.jpg&hash=7eeaa67be4d9dcbe61c570218d214127806defc8)
opening up the pinch weld is a snap ,and whats neet is the spot welds on the new clip
lines up perfect with the original spot welds
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0966.jpg&hash=a0eb350f1f48f194e300b9c1c78a14dc1bc1f44d)                                                        
 then here is a picture of the new/used clip sitting there,
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0963.jpg&hash=2ba5d987b49532ae7134cd8920fb0bb124e6d48e)                                                       lines up great as well as its level.also i have 2 lower repare pieces i got from jim/geoff that are
the lower sections that include the pinch seam and cover all the way too the bottom,very cool
so far easier than expected and i seam too be on track ,this friday i should have the frt clip welded too the body ,then will seperate the body from the pan.
--tried the new fiberglass hood/fenders on for a mock up and i have too say they look great.
thanks jim and geoff always fun too spend a bit of time chattin,more pictures coming next week
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on March 08, 2004, 01:42:48 PM
Lookin great! Thanks for your business and support, cant wait to see the hood and fenders on.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 08, 2004, 01:56:55 PM
hey geoff i'm saving those photos for the clincher.i will tell you those pieces fit very nice and my wheels tuck under sooooooo nice with no clearance issues .i have too admit i hate body work ,well soon it will be painted  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on March 08, 2004, 02:07:28 PM
Car is looking good. I'm glad the clip worked out.
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 15, 2004, 01:45:00 PM
this friday i spent the time too patch the donner frt clip and tack it into place.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0967.jpg&hash=b1bb79a8e92b2dc4870e7b0b9fc4be636720df8b)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0968.jpg&hash=31975a7355be4004544a49e15d943f54e3cca154)
it fit real well and was a lot simpler than i imagened.
you can see some of the areas i patched and filled in.
but its level and straight in the quarters

have too do a bit of custom work for a fuel cell ,but it went well .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0969.jpg&hash=b2464db841b7c0c3f17803efc628043f06a4ecb8)
there it is in its new home,fits great and will fill in each side of the tank
with a aluminum trim panel.who said you can't stuff a cell up front.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0970.jpg&hash=6cedb60dcf8f40676215f917142bdc1cf389a830)

time too let the master fabricator TATE WESTERMAN in for the real work
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0972.jpg&hash=61a498dbbf1baa4e3f1e9f906cc4cae4deb17565)
man he does nice work !!!!!
here is the sweet patch panel from airspeed .again very nice!!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0974.jpg&hash=8c47895ed9618ca2ca74b0b2f589b528f890ab4c)
this is what it looks like from the inside.
just need seam sealer and its done
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0979.jpg&hash=e21f823e262dc370542256d67f8f0acece902377)

first the airspeed fiberglass hood gets a 10 out of 10 !!!
you can't use a riv nut as the cast in metal is too deep so the compression area would be in fiberglass
and not metal.  so no problem just tap it .!!! problem solved.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0971.jpg&hash=17382a4f89175267b9e32f0cfff0dad36b7b4425)
here is a shot of it on the car.works and fits great !!!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0977.jpg&hash=2c1754bfdef67592d5a7b988969bcd99c26d9d8d)

on too the airspeed fiberglass fenders.  right frt fender gets a 10 out of 10 for fit and instilation.
the left frt fender gets a 7 out of 10 . inner lip is a bit short and angle where it meets body
is too steap a little scarry too sintch in i will have too glass on a piece too support it ,as well  it sure didn't won't too take the shape of the frt clip at rear section of fender .strange considering the other side was a snap.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0973.jpg&hash=a0695a2809ccc85259fc819b697886246f0a4b94)
you can see were it was a bit short.
but most inmportant is both fenders fit  dead on and look fantastic on there ,
.
here is the million dollar shot.
nice!!!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0975.jpg&hash=f49f8efb9344e36acbf57dab744d3b32f9332918)
and i still have 1 1/2 travel as well as i now have 1 3/4 fender clearance .!!
hood and fender line up nice
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0980.jpg&hash=9adda264d50ae9cb94d46519e1f4ac47e45276d6)
thanks too the help of silas !! again thanks for stopping by
we were able too hoist a pan. as you can see good shape just needs a clean up.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0978.jpg&hash=ad4c1cead0fe5fdf84777f2b4532420b81432466)
things seam too be moving at a great pace as well as on track .
will clean up the lower pan and coat it with por15 then reassemble it and hopefully a painted shell will meet with it soon,
again fantastic fiberglass products as the fit and outer apperance is number 1 !!!
thanks again silas for helping out .
looks like i need more parts .
next weld in frt apron and finnish small metal jobs and that will be it for me then tate can finnish it up
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on March 15, 2004, 03:37:21 PM
Looking fantastic Jim! Great to see it all in one piece again, much better then the 1pc :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on March 15, 2004, 06:24:55 PM
hey jim, it was a great pleasure meeting you and tate. for those that dont know them, they are two very cool and knowledgeable guys.

more than happy to turn some bolts and help out when i can. your car is kick ass, man.

thank sherry for the muffins & beer.

 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 22, 2004, 01:27:57 PM
doesn't look like a lot of work got done but sometimes things take a lot of time too get the effect you want.

here is a picture of the inside under dash all area's are ground smooth for pure apperance.
just needs epoxy primer and seam sealer.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0981.jpg&hash=075a099f082dfa8b37613ec077e80a4f10c1af9c)
 even under the hood a lot of time was spent cleaning and removing all things that will spoil a smooth uncluterd look. areas where the tape is are spots that were touched up und will need a shot of filler and a light sand too smooth out. should look great in the end.notice the re welded in dash .someones junk is someones treasure.thanks jim/geoff
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0982.jpg&hash=06ebc9c9b2a2b4906f2c3beca538b6dfdb86ea1f)
 the frt apron came off with little effort .allot of time was spent making sure the lower edge flows into the fenders. once again those fiberglass fenders fit great.TATE decided too start giving me a factory look .why now with the rosette welding ? looks great.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0983.jpg&hash=ea9f42d7db0f6b692ab415547f59835ab1725219)
 the hood lines up nice with the new frt apron!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0984.jpg&hash=95ea6697286b5c04616ccb26b878a2c6529b051a)
here is a shot from the side with all welds ground down .
needs a couple of coats of epoxy primer and seam sealer.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0985.jpg&hash=74e5a2347562f53a67414aa38a7145a2b15535f5)

the replacement of the frt clip as well as all the metal repare under the frame rails and lower panels as well as gas tank mounting area was most worth it . now i won't get junk fling under the frt hood as well as a more original feeling ,plus i can now throw a jacket under the hood or towels if needed.
 still not sure about the  look i'm going for , or the colour .but time will tell.
this friday i will tackle a real ugly piece \"the rear fire wall\" it has been abused for years and is beat too crap.
once that is done i will leave the rest too tate and back too the pan for me.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Tom H. on March 22, 2004, 05:51:00 PM
The color is fine, just needs some bitch'n flames and a matte clear coat.

all my split will get  ;)

really nice ride, great work.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: OUTKAST on March 22, 2004, 06:56:15 PM
Quite an undertaking  , but pulled off quite nice .It looks really good .Ilike the way the fuel cell looks up front , cant wait to see finished pics .
Take care  OUTKAST
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 22, 2004, 09:56:50 PM
thanks for the positive input check back on mondays as that is when i download my pictures at work and transfer them sometime in the afternoon.bodywork/metal work is almost done for me then i can concentrate on the pan reassembley.can't wait
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Russ on March 29, 2004, 07:47:27 PM
wow car  looks fantastic can't wait for more pics
Russ
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 29, 2004, 08:45:06 PM
thanks russ today i was at home and not at work, so i will update the progress next week.
all i can say is thank god the metal work and stripping the rear of the car is done!!!
so today 3/4 of the pan got cleaned.cant wait too finnish it and paint it.then the real fun begins, stay tuned a lot will happen over the next 2 months.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Russ on March 29, 2004, 08:55:09 PM
i get so excited watching other progres on their car because i'm not :angry:

i should have my narrowed beam tomorrow theni can start the front end assembly(can't wait)
keep us updated
thanks russ
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Pipes on March 30, 2004, 09:01:52 AM
Wow! the car is looking Fabulous!  I love the updates!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 05, 2004, 05:43:17 PM
well back too work today.
can 100 % say all major shell metal work is done .

here is a ouside picture of the rear section that was removed it had way too many years of abuse and modification.it had too go
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here is the inner shot of the section.   bye bye !
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inner patched section in and welded with a light coat of primer.section above holes is needed for fuel sysyem pieces in the engine bay.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0988.jpg&hash=3b70104baaa6837dd19c766fd2e64eaeec12d96e)
outside looks good and makes me feel happy even if you can't see much of it
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tate spun up a little filler before he left last weekend .can't wait till this weekend when its all sanded down
and coated in epoxy primer.
major progress starting soon.light at tunnel is coming fast
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_0992.jpg&hash=e43e89f9db48e21ea7391d2560901c9b44dc227a)

here is a shot of the wurth tool and the nearly cleaned pan .
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like i said all major metal shell body work is done
a lot of time was spent on my back under the car in the trans area and lower quarters touching up some holes and removing all old paint.as well as rear inner wells and rear clip needed prep work is now done.yeah!ther is no photo's of that as once you spend all day under a car the last thing you want too do is climb under too take a photo
this weekend i should finnish the pan and paint it .
then i need too clean up the whole shop ,which i can now due as all metall /stripping work is done.as well as i have almost finnished making a body dolly so i can push the shell outside too blow it off after tate works on it. dolly will be for sale later.once the shop is clean and the pan is level again as well as the shell is on the dolly .thing should come together quick.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: btljuce on April 05, 2004, 05:48:01 PM
holy cow Jim,  the car is looking great!!!won't be long now eh?! :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on April 05, 2004, 05:52:42 PM
awesome accomplishments jim. it is really coming together.

it's nice to see someone getting some work done to their car. i've been fighting a cold for the last week and i'm having a serious jones to work on my car. we'll have to hook up soon and you can come by and check it out.

let me know if you need help w/ moving and reassembly. sign me up for a ride when it's all together. i'd love to see and feel the hp in that baby.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on April 05, 2004, 07:14:40 PM
Holy crap!!!!!! you've got a new front clip on that thing already!! wasn't  it just yesterday you were looking for one :huh:
Looks awesome!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 05, 2004, 08:20:19 PM
it's funny when i look at the photo's it doesn't seam like a lot of progress, but man there was alot done in 2 days .sometimes small things in non visable places just take major time.but like many of you know from your own projects it will come together in the end.
man can't wait too drop that shell back on the cleaned pan.
my big adavtage is the car was prerun last summer before dissasemble which will speed up  the reasembley time !!
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on April 06, 2004, 03:11:50 PM
Jim Car looks amazing you are doing a great job Brotha...... Keep up the amazing pics......

Cant wait to see you at the track....
 ;)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 06, 2004, 04:11:41 PM
Quote
Jim Car looks amazing you are doing a great job Brotha...... Keep up the amazing pics......

thanks ,whens the' hulk' going to be track ready?
as soon as i get the 'wok' fired up the first place i'm heading is to a mission test and tune for a good day of vehicle set-up.maybe we can organise a bunch of people for a day at the track ,that would be a fun day for sure.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on April 06, 2004, 05:03:02 PM
Good idea, somebody bring a box full of ida jets for me :)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 06, 2004, 05:31:45 PM
i have a couple of those  10 foot by 10 foot fold out display tents/canapies we could put them together and have our own coral.
i think its a great idea ,with everyones tools/parts/knowledge in one spot it would sure be a great time
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on April 06, 2004, 06:05:10 PM
I'd love to be in on something like that!!!!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on April 06, 2004, 11:29:28 PM
Hans, You know I would never leave you out of my First track experiance.... I have two of those tents aswell .... I am also gonna be a trailer queen when I can and bring my enclosed race car trailer....

Timmy says Saturday the Hulk will be released :ph34r: ..........Getting Insurance tomorrow :D
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on April 07, 2004, 10:11:34 PM
WHOO HOOO!!!!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: sourkraut on April 07, 2004, 10:37:40 PM
Man you do some pretty nice work. I was also wodering if the Knowledge thread engine assembly was going to happen. Thanks.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 07, 2004, 11:28:18 PM
Quote
Man you do some pretty nice work. I was also wodering if the Knowledge thread engine assembly was going to happen. Thanks.

i'm really sorry i have all the parts too do it .but right now i have zero extra time at work as well as at home .i was going too do it during lunch time as well as get my 2 year appretices/Ron too help.but i'm swamped and barely have time too sit down for lunch or spare free time for Ron
but it will happen !!!                                                                                          i have some things planned in the mean time that may allow me too get the car done as well as compile  some topics for discussion !!!
what i will do is when i put the pan level again/very soon.
i will do various knowledge threads that tie in with reassembley-some topics will be \"suspension and set -up\" \"degreeing a cam\" \"valve lift and clearance\"
\"coil bind\" \"piston/cyinders/rings\" \"deck height\"
i'm sure a few more will pop up as well ,sorry for no complete motor as of now ,but i think these will be great in the mean time.
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on April 08, 2004, 09:35:01 AM
Quote
i will do various knowledge threads that tie in with reassembley-some topics will be "suspension and set -up" "degreeing a cam" "valve lift and clearance"
"coil bind" "piston/cyinders/rings" "deck height"
 
awesome idea jim.  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 08, 2004, 11:36:30 PM
thanks silas . i will move those topics down too the proper sections for general discussion,should be fun.this weekend i will get the dolly for the shell finnished as well as get the pan cleaned/welded/painted.then i can clean the garage and  will start right away on putting the suspension back in.this should tie well with the suspension and set up thread.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 13, 2004, 01:42:26 PM
since i had a extra day off  last week alot got done.

first on the list of things too do was get the shell on a dolly so i could move it around.cost for the dolly set up is under$60.00 and will colapse and store in a milk crate.just toss the 2by4's and it's ready too pack up.
construction of it is simple and will adjust to any size car.
this will make futre work in the garage a snap.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1011.jpg&hash=eee05c3b4232cb8052fbf675c930a15716c99593)
master body man TATE WESTERMAN just had too get into the pictures
he is lovin the weather and the new dolly system .if you need air-brush/body modifications/body work or even a tatoo call him his attension to detail is excellent.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1010.jpg&hash=c20b16c15c624fd0ab50c059c2d34cd0e525fdae).
outside for a blow off. new dolly works great.sanded and ready for primer
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a little bit of fresh primer alway makes you feel like alots getting done.
some times when you look at the body it's hard too notice it's chopped.
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man i love this picture ,out with the glass nose and in with the steel clip. if you look back at past shots , now you can see the smooth look under the hood i'm going for.its going too look great with the fuel cell in there
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dash area is also lookin great .i love this colour it is really growing on me,
there is something about that primer cream yellow that just says old but cool
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1022.jpg&hash=85b467e889ecd964bc8a88c1430312f247002677)                                                       i love this look of cleaned metal
all damaged area's cut out and filled and ready for paint.
i was amazed for all the years of abuse the lack of pan damage was almost nil.there was 3 small rust spots i drilled out and welded up as well
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1016.jpg&hash=5fc7d9b64d08dd07e03d01a20b3263b20b0a9180)
voila.painted the under side with semi gloss por 15 .that way the frt suspension and rear tran and suspension will stand out
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you can see i lot got done i'm very happy with the pan ,check with the earlier shots of the pan and clip .the end result is fantastic!! i'm really happy with the progress.total time too replace the clip was about 4 working weekend's , which is not bad considering the modification that went into it as well as all the small things that creep up along the way.the end result is worth it.
well this coming up friday all time will be spent cleaning the garage as it is a disaster area coverd in about a inch of dust and grinding crap.
then i can push the pan outside too clean off the top side that is coverd in body shop dust.bring it in ,get it leveled and start reassembley of it.but first i will need too take a detour too the motor and take the top end apart for a few modifications,and see what parts i will need
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: sourkraut on April 13, 2004, 10:24:47 PM
Its amazing to me to see how much stuff you get done in one day. Did you spray the primer yourself it looks very nice.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 13, 2004, 10:44:34 PM
thanks sourkraut.no tate would not let me touch the primer gun that day,hahaha  . there seamed too be a problem with the compressor and controlling flow was a little tricky, i got too get some new equipment. but besides that he is damb good at it.yes i was amazed that in 6 hours he came in,busted off last weeks filler added more sanded it and primerd it and the under dash as well in one day.the result looks great
i think with all projects there is a time where nothing ever seams too get done.but you just keep picking away at it then all of a sudden ,bang it all comes together quickly.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: sourkraut on April 13, 2004, 11:12:11 PM
Could you take a few picts of the mounts for your roll cage. I just want to see where it mounts in the center. Did you prime all of the fenders and doors as well.
Thanks Steve
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 13, 2004, 11:29:59 PM
this should help.
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you can see in some of the other topic photos that the forword tubing mounts onto plates on the heater channel and the rear mounts onto plates in the rear shelf corners with brakets cut through the floor for links too attach to the rear frame horns.frame was built at chief chassis,leave that stuff too the pro's.
yes the doors and fenders were all primerd last year ,except for the new fiberglass stuff for this year.those parts will pet the final primer shot after they are all gone over 1 more time .but tate has too finnish the shell.at the rate he works and with the majority of work alread done last year it should go fast.
keep the work up on your car ,i will check your topic often and see how its coming along
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 26, 2004, 01:49:50 PM
sorry lots of photos taken but none used today ,they will be for upcoming 'knowledge threads'.
i needed too finnish the shop cleaning and do some engine/trans dissasembley work in order too get parts rolling so everthing will flow together apon reassembley, with no holdups
transmission had a oil leak from the input shaft in the nose cone so it was taken off and sent back too bergs for repare.
top end of the motor was taken apart for upgrades and inspection. heads will go to darren too perform his magic on ,and the piston/barrel/ring issue will need too be looked into as i have a set of non seating total seal rings.
-parts are now orderd so i can get back too cleaning/washing the pan and get it ready for parts being reinstalled.
hopefully things will come together soon
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on April 26, 2004, 06:19:23 PM
Man that is great work I love it.... Cant wait to line up beside you in Mission

Great Job bud
 :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 27, 2004, 07:11:31 AM
when i get this damb thing together much time will be spent at mission.
I CAN'T WAIT !!!!!
that will be a great match up.  THE HULK vs. THE WOK
it'll be fun too get a couple of forced induction cars running down the track.
keep you posted.maybe for a breakin run i could drive somewhere for a cup of coffee .know a good place pointblank????                                            
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Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on April 29, 2004, 01:32:13 PM
You bring that Beast to MOJO's and Coffee is on me!!!!!

Man the \"WOK\" is looking good....

Cheers
Shane
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: lizard on April 29, 2004, 11:57:04 PM
wow jim ,nice work, :rockon: . Whats it run in the 1/4 ?

 I vote on flat black for a color but thats me. :D  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 03, 2004, 10:22:44 PM
man what a nice day friday i was able too get the last of the pan work done.
so time too wheel it outside for a wash off !!man was it coverd in body dust.
all washed off and cleaned in order to get the  outer pan edges ready for paint
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a couple of beers later with the help of the sun it was dry and ready for paint,so in it goes for a little por 15.
if you look close you can see the outer lip is in semi-gloss and the inner is in gloss.i found out from last summer that the semi-gloss does not take abuse/scratches well .but the gloss does and if you want too touch it up it blends instantly.
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so underside and rear suspension torsion/frame horns are semi gloss and inner floor pan is gloss.will look great when assembled!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1052.jpg&hash=a0279128bbaecb5a34c5fff3784b663540e951f7).
garage is clean and orginized !!!! finnaly i can find what i need when i want it.body work on one side and the serious stuff on the otherside.
now i'm officially on the reassembley !!!!parts are going on the pan and staying there.my trans nose cone was replaced from the bergs and is on the way back! so this friday i will work on rear suspension swing plates and  prepping the trans to go back in,i must admit its way more fun too put thing together-thing will pick up now!!
tate stopped in for his sunday special as well a silas dropped by .must of heard of all the free beer i had floating around.so there was alot of talk and work happening.tate finnished off the interiour take a good look closely and you can see the smooth inner look !! up close its clean and smooth!very nice!
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with the cage painted the same colour it takes on this fat tubing look .but the thing blend in from the outside so well it gives that stealth look i like.
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here is something i made last year.it is a dual purpose item . first it is a spring plate retainer . second , if you look at the bottom plate there are special cut replaceble wedges that limit suspension down travel too either
0 camber / 1/2 deg possitive or 1 deg positive camber.this system works great and has proven reliable enough that i will use it again .but most inportant my adjustable spring plates clear the brackets !!!!!yeah!!lucky
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if you remember i had said earlier i had taken a little detour too do some trans and engine inspection,the trans is getting the oil leak/nose cone repared as well as a new modified rear mount .and the motor is getting some upgrades as well.after taking the heads and barels off i got a good look inside at the cam , NO WEAR !!!break in complete!!!
i started a complete remeasure of all top end componets starting with lift at the cam .well that flash is killing me on the camera.anyway .388 lift on all lobes.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1038.jpg&hash=61c19d5b2433ab163043072c92c47c197dcebf03)
after rechecking and confirming tdc on my pulley i figured i would recheck cam timing.you can almost see at .050 lift at the intake i'm at 32deg btdc which means i'm running my cam at 4 deg advanced .will be making a change but will let you in on that later as i'm really going too concern my self with the intake closing event as this is a nitrous motor and that is more critical.
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don't ever let your daughter see you take her play-doe .man i'm in trouble.
i had a little time and had lost all my original measurement so i wanted too clay the pistons in order too check for valve to piston clearance.after darren lets me know what i can safely lift with my valve train i will adjust rocker geometry too meet that number.air is power!!
this is what it looks like after you install your head and rocker assembley /adjust 0 lash and turn it over.head is now off and i have cut into the centre of the exhaust  valve inpression.
SEE THE OIL CONSUMPSSION IN CYLIDER #4 .big concern but will get too that later on .parts on way as well as lesson learned !!
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you can see i have arond .2220 inches valve too piston clearance.that a tonn of room which will alow for more lift !!! as well i check the clearance with the cam at 0 and 4 deg retarded for valve too piston clerance.like i said before the one thing you overlook will come back to haunt you later.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1036.jpg&hash=12c2752eda7f11b7c879de963bc3938707cf3957)
on the intake there is also well over ,2000 valve to piston clerance.so i'm in good shape.parts are on the way .so engine reassembley is coming soon.as are some more tricks i've picked up.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1037.jpg&hash=c257d45fb874df2e5b841291b0803b4d44c06802)
here is a race tip .by setting my valve clearance at 0 i picked up just over .011 lift at the valve .so if you are real serious at the track with a hot engine .pop of your valve covers and reset the clearance too .001 .like i said its a race tip not a practical one .but air is power!!the more you get in the more you get out of it!!
can't wait for friday and the big brown truck too arive with my rings and nose cone!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on May 03, 2004, 10:42:34 PM
Looking good Jim!!! great info too! thanks
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 03, 2004, 11:06:59 PM
Quote
Looking good Jim!!! great info too! thanks
i hope people enjoy reading/looking at something different.
i know years ago i would flip through mags  looking at all the little hidden thing/parts that were barley noticeable trying too figure out what was being used as well as how they were assembled.i still do it now.i have taken so many photos i cant possibley display them all . but will try too show those same photos that i would want too see.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on May 04, 2004, 12:45:56 AM
goddamn it jim, what did you do to tate's arm? i guess now that the majority of the bodywork is done he only needs one arm to hold the spray gun,eh!

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thanks for having me over. it's always fun times. it was cool talking hockey w/ margaret the super gram.

awesome info and detail w/ the photos too. i know i'm learning a thing or two.

seriously folks, jim has one bad ass car. watching this car get put together is gonna blow your minds. kudos to you jim, for doing such great work and doing most if not all of it yourself.

i cant wait to see it blast the 1/4. the car and driver are gonna be serious contenda's.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: OUTKAST on May 04, 2004, 08:14:18 PM
I'm going to hafta close in my garage next year so I can do some more work on the van . your cars coming along great . where did you get all your knowledge from it's quite intresting watching the engine steps .I have never set my own valves  :(  hope to get a lesson next week .I will admit I'm getting a little better at taking risks and learning or asking my friend eric for help. If you don't mind me asking what do you do for a job. I just finished my steel fab apprenticeship but don't have welder ,or shop right now.  :( .All will come in due time .Can't wait to see it come together
Later OUTKAST :)
P.S. nice tatoo I 've got 4 myself and more to come in time also
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 05, 2004, 07:13:28 PM
thanks SILAS for the kind words , you are always welcome anytime,i'm glad you got to talk to tate and get any body tips you need .he is the one too ask!!for sure.  don't worry my daughter will lend you her ear muffs soon enough.
well OUTCAST i work at mercedes-benz canada as the shop foreman in the richmond location.my knowledge , or lack of it at times. comes from along way back .one day when we meet i can fill you in.  
i'm glad you like the motor shots ,when i reassemble the eng and trans i will start some topics in the tech section .that should be fun.yep for sure do the work on your bus/car yourself .there is no easier car too learn on than a aircooled vw.and i'm sure you know there is a tonne of help just a keypad away if you get stuck..
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on May 06, 2004, 12:21:38 AM
Quote
don't worry my daughter will lend you her ear muffs soon enough.
 
ear muffs, we dont need no stinking earmuffs!!

after playing drums in so many rock & roll & punk bands over the past 10 years, my eardrums are shot! i will however be able to make out the sweet sound of the ida's sucking air and the straight cuts cutting a rug.

i would be honoured to ride shotgun in such a sweet car B)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 06, 2004, 09:20:33 PM
hope your not worried about a bottle of nitrous between your legs.
--i mean if your going go for a ride .might as well be a memorable one.

trust me there is no better sound than a engine on nitrous!!
inside the car under full throttle and a 70hp shot its crazy in there.
i don't even know how to describe it.
tranny nose cone just arrived.looks like i better get those spring plates back on
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on May 06, 2004, 11:00:49 PM
sign me up, jim! B)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 10, 2004, 08:50:50 PM
ever have one of those days where you think you will get a lot done .
but nothing comes together,well that was me .between calls from work and lack of prechecking i was forced too do a few small things that would needed to get done,but i did not want to do.
after finnishing painting the rear shock towers and getting my spring plate measurements  it was time too assemble.NO PARTS did not realize that the adjustable plates take a 2inch inner and  1 7/8 outer-oh well
so i put on the new nose cone back onto the 5 speed.it was great RANCHO AND BERGS helped me out !! then got the glass hood operating.first time since i owned the car it has had a operating hood!!
-thank god TATE arived on sunday too make some progress,he split some seams from where i welded the new rear clip on as well as replaced the seal pinch strips basically repared my mess .very clean and looks great.i also enlarged the carb acces points
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1065.jpg&hash=bb5164459cbc0b508cf975ea37fcbf0542d0c0e6)
you can see the final result in the engine bay after all the repare work has been finnished. it looks great ,especially for a futre 911 shroud.rear clip look smooth again.

this picture is great because when you look at the roof curve it's 100 true , as well as the overall shape you CAN'T tell it chopped from behind!! unless you really now your cars.its kind of nice that way , gives that stealth effect from the rear.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1068.jpg&hash=83ee06cf1720d6fe60711fbe8dec22b3ce76d91b)

primming a car is a snap if a 3 1/2 year old can do it ,SO CAN YOU!
hell one day she will own it so she better work on it!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1069.jpg&hash=d87f7e21f026835d9223d37687567ecf92d1e1e0)
well all thats left on the shell is the roof and rear quarters.that will be next sunday !
as for me hopefully engine parts will come in and i could go visit airspeed and darren.since i can't get a damb thing done around here might as well go for a drive
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hoosier Daddy on May 10, 2004, 08:58:55 PM
Awesome!

We're waiting for ya Jim :D  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 17, 2004, 10:37:10 PM
well seams i am still at that stage during a project called a lul.which means there is so much cool stuff to do but you can't do them because of a hold up from something else.so in orderd too fill time as parts arrive i decided too finish some needed small / time consuming things.which always turn into large jobs
first in order too keep the deck lid closed for that smooth /stealth look and still have cool engine tempatures , something i played with last year is going in full time
RAM AIR for carb intakes as well as a FRESH AIR INTAKE  for enging cooling fan.
so 3/4 my day was spent modifieng the rear seats for 2 reasons. first too allow for the needed cooling pipe/vent work , as well as too allow them to fit between the cage for removal when its all assembled.
you can see the lower seat inner corners ar modified as well as its narrowed 3 inches.and the backrest is lowerd 1 inch and narrowed 3 inches as well.
this will make sence later on ,remember cool air!!!!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1086.jpg&hash=39e1d60a5e28ca7d4f844e363d1749a97fbcd6da)
hell chopped car =chopped seats front seats are heavely modified but function great .seat are going too GARRY next weekend too be recoverd.if anyone can handle a modified seat covering i know its him.
colour will be brick red basket weeve !!! well at least the interior has a colour.should look great.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1084.jpg&hash=2709a91bee5d5fa334eb3d841729997702df85ff).
now back too the interior vent work .you can see a few thing here.
first the modified seats fit and operate great.if its a street car and you have little ones in the family ,you need a operating rear seat assembley.
second the vent work comes from the heater inlet tubes on each side/under the rear seat cushion/ up behind the rear backrest and finnally too the rear fire wall ,where it will meet with a neet aluminum fresh air box for the motor.thats being made now and will fit between the rear roll cage tubes.it will have 2 -2 1/2 intakes and 1 - 4 inch outlet
now you understand the reason for the modified seats.  vent work needs to remain undamaged during normal operation as well as need too be barely noticable when done
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1075.jpg&hash=e12012caae5a162f72df139009b92bc25ec02159)
will come back too this system later.but know you can see what i did on friday anyway.
here is the super spy shot of the futre RAM AIR vent system.holes on top are intakes and lowers are air out. this is going too be cool .i'm really excited about this .more too come but this will keep you thinking.remember RAM AIR.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1083.jpg&hash=84a2d9c0b807e313cfc713cb155df44c1eb3a319).
TATE cruised by on sunday and finnished a few cosmetic things off and ended up starting on the block sanding of the shell. this means paint is coming soon.man the shell is starting too look real smooth.when i took this shot this morning a could not believe its finnally getting there.the roof line is dead on .i'm overjoyed about the shape of the roof  .this chop turned out right!!
colour ?? better get around too picking one soon ,but it will have too match a brick red interior!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1081.jpg&hash=7e9430f9ff84cee765f066c62843a69c2df8cf1e).
so the never ending saga continues .hopefully parts will show up so i can start reassembling the pan/trans/motor .if not back too the deck lid and frt hood.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on May 17, 2004, 10:49:33 PM
OKAY  !!  I've got to see and hear more about this air system. Can't wait.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on May 18, 2004, 10:24:01 AM
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.airspeedparts.com%2Fimages%2Frear-vents-59.jpg&hash=01f966da4f3b125fb0346667f462a43cbe916368)

Jim, here is my deck lid with the factory louvers. This makes a big difference when you have the 911 fan, it allows all the fresh air to be drawn in. Keep up the good work, im sure you'll have it at the track in no time.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 19, 2004, 08:38:05 PM
ah yes the track . sooner than later i hope. plan is to unvail at vw show in coquitlam again.it was a great first ride last year ,hopefully it will work for me this year. but i can't rush at this stage .looks like geoff and myself are on the same track .cool air is the way too go .that decklid set-up geoff uses is fantastic ,i love it cause its hidden. i'll have to go 911 next motor !!! 84 /101.6 :D  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 25, 2004, 08:10:01 PM
well got alot done but not alot of update pictures.basicaly anything that is on the pan is 100% tight and ready too roll.frt end was completely pulled apart and gone over,i'm pleased it worked so well last year and needs no repair.also i was able too remount trans and spring plates but will cover that next week.pictures i took turned out terrible so i will scrape them today.or will readd later
here is the only one that i saved early in the day and you can see frt end is together ,and i am working my way too the rear.after next friday i should have the pan on the ground and waiting for motor and shell as well as wiring.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fftp%3A%2F%2Fchoptop2%3Aforeman%40ftp.shaw.ca%2Fjimscar2%2FDCP_1110.JPG&hash=19bac67210b2338c307deb0b10dd62410f9b37d6)
as promissed a took abunch of photos of the frt suspension.  i will  move them too the chassis & suspension forum under the technical heading too start a knowledge thread on suspension geometry
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 31, 2004, 09:05:55 PM
i havent been that pissed in a long time but friday killed me .nothing worse than trying to put something  together only too find out it doesn't go no matter what you do.what i'm talking about was my spring plate retainers .since you are dealing with a lot of load and tension.repeat re & re is tough and trying on the patience ,but in the end it all came together.thank god the beer fridge is close by
here was stage #1 modifie plate retainers too allow for grease fitting and a internal groove.no sweat
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1112.jpg&hash=b081a2ad98bfb65436fc2ad5eca10c9fb79c976f)
after a lot of sweat see above i made up some spacer brackets too shim out the plate.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1111.jpg&hash=739b34cb5d2b264a2178339b4e848d28e90593c0).
now i'm getting somewhere finally.thats the rear suspension set up with the solid plate/adjustable spring plates and my safety strap & suspension limiter combo.                                                                                                          
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1114.jpg&hash=af36b7e1f0e4639f4cfe51242fcc7f8772ab545b) .      rear suspension sits at 1/2 deg max positive camber.im not sure if i will use those large bus buffers ,i  have a ride height sensor that will hook into my LM1 for data input on squat .but thats a whole ways down the road.
contact rear wheel touches down once again.finally      
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fjimscar2%2FDCP_1123.jpg&hash=5db35afa289683cce18fed123dbf59deab2de1a2)
since this is a street car first and a strip car second drivability is up there this is the trans mount set up i'm using.its a combo of berg frt /bugpack rear /bugpack urethane mounts and strap kit.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1133.jpg&hash=a67f58bb35c69dfc96f3b6115ba277d97fcba653)
from above you can see all the buisness.newly installed /welded front paded strap.last year i could reall feel the nose lift .this should help.as well as for racing those 2 big rubber mounts get replaced with aluminum blocks !!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1127.jpg&hash=db897eb1b2517fe197eb4491ba42ba669dad0e4d).
ITS A ROLLER!!now just need a motor and body.just have a issue with left frt wheel bearing and gearbox oil.and its done
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fjimscar2%2FDCP_1132.jpg&hash=66ef58369e23c2670f9f62a3d4cdcb3dcead70c2)
master body man TATE stopped in on saturday and his main battle was finnish block sanding the roof and give it the finally prime.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1120.jpg&hash=bfe70bb1661ac709971105552d71b07f511ba606)
check out the roof rain gutter seam and the line on the inner roof.SWEET!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1121.jpg&hash=1b123cc9f56b6b5f7d09eae53c8125f345be74d5)
its always interesting too watch a body man do his magic they make it look so easy ,SILAS stopped in too take in half the day,the more the merrier ,finnally TATE stopped spraying and was happy so a few beers went down .its getting closer every weekend.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1134.jpg&hash=37413a83ae1032d6b40a6ca5a52e323fc9e4a78b)
next friday i have too finnish fitting that hood as tate wants too nail all the quarters and start on either doors or fenders and hood.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1128.jpg&hash=4803dd208b4796e7559a4b8c18078160d36ab240)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: btljuce on May 31, 2004, 09:27:04 PM
jim,   you rule.  your car is gettin sweeter,and sweeter every week. keep up the good work,and pat yourself on the back once and a while. also you were mentioning the sound of a motor on nitrous,you should watch a 500 hp shot,on the dyno  :blink: ,nitrous IS awesome,but it's even cooler when you can see the motor react,when you jump on the button !!!!!    NASTY!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on June 02, 2004, 08:08:04 PM
Quote
jim,   you rule.  your car is gettin sweeter,and sweeter every week. keep up the good work,and pat yourself on the back once and a while. also you were mentioning the sound of a motor on nitrous,you should watch a 500 hp shot,on the dyno  :blink: ,nitrous IS awesome,but it's even cooler when you can see the motor react,when you jump on the button !!!!!    NASTY!!
thanks my friend a little encouragement always helps.
got my heads back from darren today as well as the cylinders rehoned.it will be a toss up this friday.motor or body?hmmm.will flip a coin friday morning.either way its all getting done.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on June 02, 2004, 11:55:40 PM
jim, you give me a call when it comes time to put the body back on the pan. i'm totally in to helping you out. it's always good times at your pad.

also, that chassis is tight. the suspension and set up is rock solid. the pictures only do it so much justice. seeing it for real blows your mind.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on June 08, 2004, 08:25:58 PM
here is a first, a non picture update.booo/hisss .i only had a couple of hours on friday as it was my daughters sports day.all i did was finnish trimming the frt hood and reshaping the right side at the cowling . needed too take about a 1/4 off on one side too even things up .with the rubber seal in and the latch it works and fits great !!!as well  as th 'ram air' deck lid is taking shape.
TATE has finnished the body 100%% and its ready for a final wet sand and paint!
this sunday he will do all the attaching parts.
-paint colour will be m.b code #723 pewter but will swap out the extra fine metalic, for differant base metalic which is way corser.looks like paint over diamonds -very very  nice . interior is at garry shop which i now will turn out great
heads are back from darren [p.s thanks again darren] and refinnished barrels and new ring are ready too go.have too do one more day too get things ready for TATE then its motor time ,have some new tricks and data-should be fun.
i'm starting too get pumped
i may have too take a weeks holidays too reassemble it all when its painted
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on June 08, 2004, 08:58:59 PM
Cant wait to see you out there :P  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on June 09, 2004, 06:47:36 PM
Dido!!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on June 14, 2004, 08:48:08 PM
well after last sunday with TATE i had instruction too make sure everthing thats going on the shell is finished ,so i figured i would start at one end and finnish at the other,step one was drill out 2 broken bolts for the frt bumper mounts,then do the finnal fit of the fuel cell.
you can see the cell rest on a aluminum plate and is supported in 3 spots as well as the fuel guage area now has a spot for my autometer head temp guage.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1137.jpg&hash=f7c4ac13bf870d8057fa49535109cb30297e8c29)
well it sure stands out up there but it is in and is secure,  i never intended too reinstall a steel frt clip inplace of the original glass nose i had on ,i probably would have a stock modified tank up there ,but this works great with my fuel system anyways.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1141.jpg&hash=ba8b4eb98dbf4b250f786f3861d9e0c1d82a053e)
as per TATE'S wishes i remounted the frt fenders and hood.the left fender needed a bit of work but the right needed only light finnishing ,i figured this is a good shot for anyone running these fenders as they can see the area's that needed work as well as the hood on the middle left side.kind of has the empi inch pincher effect.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1142.jpg&hash=1ce121503db612d4b1f2b858c9eb500ece0df356)
peek a boo ! looks good and everthing lines up great!great products and great body people are a must for any project.now i got too think if i want too run bullet turn signal or not ??
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1146.jpg&hash=5e9968fac90210defefaff7f7726c7d2f012e55d)
now you tell me ,is it a complete glass frt end? all steel frt end ? or a combo of both? can't tell? well thats the idea.looks good too me especially considering a few months back i was hacking what was left of the frt end off.end result deffentally worth replacing the frt clip . i  think i will offer a prize too anyone that can tell hom many modification are on the car as well as what's original.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1147.jpg&hash=23e783b895f430dad5d5b29d0748b717513c13c2)
TATE almost finnished the rear fenders and doors but that will be for this sunday.plan is for me on friday too finish off RAM-AIR deck lid as well as finish off making door window moldings.then will start sanding out interior and get read for seam sealer and paint.CAN'T WAIT too get some damb colour on this car.all other mechanical work is on hold in order too get the body done first.
see you on the streets soon
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on June 14, 2004, 10:31:38 PM
See you at the show this coming sunday!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on June 15, 2004, 07:53:32 AM
Man she is looking so good.... I have never seen a resto done so fast ....Great job on the updates and pics.... Looks Awesome man...
Shane
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: CHEECH on June 15, 2004, 08:19:42 AM
:o WOW I`m speechless :o

BTW  HAPPY B-DAY ;)  :D  :D  :rockon:  :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on June 21, 2004, 08:23:56 PM
well i finnished the finnal bits of things that needed prefitting onto the car before paint,headlight assembleys too fenders have taken alot of time as you would expect in the mating of 2 aftermarket parts . as well as my one piece door glass moldings'no picture' have too keep some things hiden took a fair amount of time
as well as figuring were my tubes for RAM AIR are going to link up with no motor in takes a bit of patience.from the outside you will see nothing ,great!
sorry no shot of ducting behind aluminum tilt frame
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1150.jpg&hash=bad7686accda1d26e4c7352f7c5f9ccac22cab0e)
but a shot from the inner and i think you can see were the tubes will hook up too the ducts behind the licence plate and join too the carbs.hope this will allow much wanted fresh air too the carbs ,as the 4 lower holes will allow acces air out.circulation thing.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1151.jpg&hash=2ad7f0bdf7f2f2777227a2bd8865aff011fbe417)
the interior is about 50% sanded ,but i have a few time restraintes in the next few weeks,so for awhile i'm sighning out but will come back to post all the progress shots once all the inners of the car are painted and it' s going back on the pan .can see light at the end of the paint tunnel,but cannot rush any steps .see you on the streets soon
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 12, 2004, 08:50:05 PM
well its been awhile but alot has been going on at home/work and that means less in the garage,but i took some time off last week too get caught up somewhat.painting a car is a stinkin slow pain,there is so many steps .
but i needed too get some colour on this car in order too get the garage cleaned so i can get back too the mechanical end of things.
want too paint at your house ,easy first cover all walls with plastic and hose floor too catch any dust ,at one end -air intake add furnace filter,
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1156.jpg&hash=a5ca3e2689f064dd99aebf838f5bb68b9a32be42)
add away too suck fumes out and you are set
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1157.jpg&hash=18f1c36d3f88401759b0445748fc194671471119)
well i wish it was that easy ,as i had alot of things creap up and made my share of mistakes.hopefully tate can fix a few later when he returns from vacation.
---well good-bye 'WOK' and helo 'LED-ZEPPLIN'
shot under the hood hope you like the colour
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1159.jpg&hash=8528efdc9fa611e42b84033e69fb90fe00d09494)
i snapped a few shots so you can get a idea how it looks.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1161.jpg&hash=c3e15c0cc9c6a749b44ad972094de279e60225c5)
(http:///dialedinperformance.com/images/jimscar/DCP_1162.jpg)
engine area is done with base and 10 % hardner for ease of repare in the futre -no clear here                                                                                            (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1168.jpg&hash=2e21b289d36b100b29ad06712f5f8363eb6cff46)
dash looks good ,TATEneeds too fix one spot so only one coat of clear on there at this time,would have too have a oops there :wacko:
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1173.jpg&hash=0231ba2393f316f434e93f2d27c236395de94197)
took it out for a walk ,see already doing wheelies
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1179.jpg&hash=6467d556ecdbc6f37815dfcfcd5c9762a2acdb8c)
well time too stuff it back inside , you can see how the garage was set up -
worked very well.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1181.jpg&hash=fb2c6642bf018f19690621a4da3831bfba0bf99a)
NOW!i can get back too the pan and get it ready for the shell,garage is cleaned so this friday i'm spinning wrenches again.time too put hardware back in and fix a few thing left on the pan i never got done.once the shell is back home i will reassemble the car too driver stage minus doors and fenders and eng and trunk lid and take it in for the outer paint,then its street time,well getting there , can't wait
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Chris on July 12, 2004, 09:03:13 PM
lookin good! Cant wait to see this machine complete and running!  :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Matt on July 12, 2004, 09:04:52 PM
Looks Good Jim!! are you spraying the whole car in your garage or taking it to a booth for the outside paint? That must have been fun painting the inside around the roll bar!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 12, 2004, 09:14:25 PM
Quote
Looks Good Jim!! are you spraying the whole car in your garage or taking it to a booth for the outside paint? That must have been fun painting the inside around the roll bar!!
mat i will take the car too work for the outer paint and all the removed pieces
it would have been impossible for me too get the inner work done there at this time .so i think this will work out the best,one thing is for sure ,the paint there will really show up my job for sure.thats why i did the inners, they are kind of hidden!!
man you are right on -between cralling under the car and in behind all the tubing makes me wish i had some yoga lessons,i'm beat
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on July 13, 2004, 06:14:29 AM
Can't wait to come cheer you on at the track.....
Looks good man
 :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 13, 2004, 03:02:20 PM
hey jim. absolutely bitchin. great job man.

i cant wait to see it in person. the pictures are great but im sure in person up close its even better. the colour is a little darker than i imagined, but i think it's better that way. it's like you said, \"less bling\".

i'll head up there on the weekend to help you put it back on the pan. you just give me the word.

oh ya. wheres the calender girl? i hope you just took her down for the paint booth and put her right back up again. you know she inspires all for greatness. :lol:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 13, 2004, 04:32:27 PM
Quote


oh ya. wheres the calender girl? i hope you just took her down for the paint booth and put her right back up again. you know she inspires all for greatness. :lol:
this is what happened too the calander girl,
true story,hence the dash blemish.
i was in the car under the dash scopin it out when all of a sudden there is a huge crash.as i jumped up too see what happened i caught my forehead and scalp on the right glove box hindge,now with blood poring down my face i get out of the car and go over too the paint bench which was right below the fan. what happened is my cat's tried too catch a pigeon that was eating the seeds my daughter put in her garden ,the pigeon flue up and into the fan, fan fell into garage and landed on paint bench taking out my base/ clear and hardner. huge mess,this is also why i ran short of supplies.so now this week i need too gather a few more supplies and let tate finnish the dash. so not this weekend but next it should go on,that is if tate comes on sunday.
oh yes i almost forgot the calander girl ,was injured in the carnage and was know longer  nice too look at.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 13, 2004, 10:46:31 PM
Quote
oh yes i almost forgot the calander girl ,was injured in the carnage and was know longer  nice too look at.
whoa.

as long as you and the car are ok.

alas, poor calender girl. we knew her well. r.i.p.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: CHEECH on July 14, 2004, 09:10:22 AM
BTW, We also have \" Nipples\" as we like to call her up in the shop as well :wub:

The car looks great Jim, Perfect color you picked.


Shawn
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 17, 2004, 08:30:24 PM
ah yes the replacement for the lost calander girl, thanks silas !!


(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.pacbell.net%2Ffwmn65%2F45093.gif&hash=7b47f61dc26bc80b69c1b2bdb9ee368094ecd74c)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 18, 2004, 12:53:29 AM
heehee. i was hoping someone would get a kick out of her.

a valid replacement, jim. i say we keep her. :lol:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 19, 2004, 09:18:41 PM
well last week i worried for nothing as this last weekend TATE, master bodyman came too fix my painting woes.well it wasn't that bad and because of it the interior has turned out even better,what i did was use a high pressure gun with low pressure which made for a heavy coat of clear.
so what was lucky was the aplication of base under it was even so we sanded down the clear with 600/800 grit untill under the hood and interior were baby bum smooth, just like when you colour sand the exterior with 1500 grit,same idea.this left a flat surface too lay down a very thin clear layer,WOW!!!i'm pleased.
here it is all unrapped and waiting too go back on the pan.will attempt this wensday night if i can get the boys from work too help.beer and pizza works.
you can really see where the application of the base / clear and the base/hardner area's are
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1187.jpg&hash=80ba8beb9503e63dbd9226fb4d361f43e684d19c)
SO ITS OVER NO MORE BODY WORK IN THE GARAGE !!!!!
that leaves the mechanical !! so in order too ready the pan there was one spot that needed attension and i think it turned out great.my rear urethane mounts were in bad shape as well as the small colars were pulling into the trans housing .so i made a plate too sit against the trans between the mount and the trans housing ,this will keep the colars from pulling into the housing,as well as after looking at it a bit ,i thought why not make a
urathane/solid mount set up. so on the back of the plate i welded a tab that will bolt onto the rear trans carrier.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1190.jpg&hash=60aa5c84f8e6ea917865a6ee72e113f35db31c74)
you can see the space between the tab/support and the carrier,just install the thick 1/4 inch washer add bolt and instant solid rear mount for racing.when done racing pull bolts and washers and vibration free cruising.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1191.jpg&hash=11c337d9bc58311f07d78b51ba12c635c094532b)
well lets hope it works??as you can see i love mechanical stuff.
see you on the streets soon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: OUTKAST on July 23, 2004, 07:32:28 PM
:o  :o  :o  :o  :o  :o What to say things looking great .Tate sounds like a good buddy to have .Man if I lived closer I would be all over comming down to put the body on 'I'm sure man power won't be a problem though.This is a great thread I've enjoyed following the progress . And i must say the new calender girl excites me in a way Franks hot sauce never will :wub: Cant wait to see it rolling will check back.
Later Outkast
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 25, 2004, 08:29:32 PM
Quote
This is a great thread I've enjoyed following the progress .
i'm glad you've been following along.
  hope you have enjoyed it as much as i have so far,yesturday i was showing a friend the post from begining too end ,wow, what a journey
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 30, 2004, 05:25:27 PM
sorry will have too add pictures in later .cat has eaten patch cord,so it will now fit around one of there necks well .ha ha .
well ,shell went onto car  last wensday with some help from silas and guys from work,what a mug shot.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1193.jpg&hash=8144f94a28e9c9fa464d4ff4ad97d42aafab3fa8)
well back on for the first time in awhile,looking good so far,what a relief.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1194.jpg&hash=d4c3eca13ba10f8371de69df4775ed5e5f9eec70)
TATEstopped in on sunday and finnished the block sanding on the doors and gave all the loose parts the finnal prime,
turns out the paint shop is a bit slow . so tuesday morning the car and its parts arrived.
today ,friday i have been at the body shop all day helping out. if you have never understood the prep procedure it goes like this.after car has been block sanded with 220 grit it is final primed,then it get guide coat sprayed on ,and is block sanded with 400 grit,any spots that need repare are fixed now and resanded and primed again,then the whole car is again resanded wet with 800 grit.my god what a deal and a mess,then it is washed down with a special solution and masked off for paint.sanding never ends ,this is HAMEN , who is one of the prepers at the mb body shop and is doing a above excellent job on my car.i can't thank him enough for all his time.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1197.jpg&hash=ccd76bd4fdd32918b0f2207501605c4e3c72a63f)
ready for paint on tuesday.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1199.jpg&hash=eec5af6f39273aaae62d18ee5f6047cdcb72d262).
one of the frt as well.see you tuesday.                                                      (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1200.jpg&hash=d37c2d76bfc54dea5f81bb2b4e66327d37959d52)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 03, 2004, 08:19:52 PM
well i havent been this happy in a long time.    paint is on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
stopped by the body shop at 3.30 today and caught BING master mb painter after he had laid on the second coat of base,this is the time where you look for any last minute flaws and fix them before more coats applied,well 2 more of base to go for a grand total of 4 base coats.looks like powder grafite to me
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1201.jpg&hash=459f9e1ec88b6e91dae90f4433f302ecd7604a18).
stopped by at 6.15 too check out the finall results.saw BING and he says it turned out great,coming from him i new it was good.what a differance some clear makes.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1202.jpg&hash=3b34a1f53e14d4b598b7bee62bc61eaa32b425c0)
man oh man i'm pleased,well will tow it home tomorrow and let it mellow out in the garage a while,got too love the smell of fresh paint.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1203.jpg&hash=0c5571183574933e6047991d7d9125b47a164c30)
doors and fenders will follow soon. the car will sit and cure awhile so i will put my motor back together in the evenings.
what is that -oh a dim light at the tunnels end
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Matt on August 03, 2004, 08:26:46 PM
It's killin me! I can't see the pics......
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 03, 2004, 08:43:29 PM
Quote
It's killin me! I can't see the pics......
sorry typing error should be up now.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on August 03, 2004, 08:50:41 PM
My God Jim (Sounds like a Star Trek quote)  that car looks amazing... cant wait to see the silver Bullet Blur....

What a beautiful job....!!!
 Congrats bud!! Man that is sweet , Cant wait to see it all together .. 10 days till GCVW.. You can do it!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Matt on August 03, 2004, 08:51:12 PM
Nice Job Jim!!! That looks really good!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: 67kafer on August 03, 2004, 08:55:04 PM
Thats color looks wicked.Your car is going to be sweet when it's done.Great work :D  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on August 03, 2004, 09:07:12 PM
JIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Come over here right now and clean my computer screen - I seem to have made a mess.......


Car looks AMAZING! Do you think you'll have it for GCVW? Need help on assemble?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Chris on August 03, 2004, 09:25:41 PM
After your done that maybe you can stop by and give me a ride in the car! :)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 04, 2004, 01:18:39 PM
well towed it home at lunch today,got passed by a black bug with a custom plate' sharky'nice car.
--------thanks for all the positive replies !!!!!!!!!
as far as the show goes ,believe me i'm trying hard i will be there at mission and show with or without  my car.as far as help ,yes i could use alot  but it will have too be during fridays only as my sat/sun are booked for the next month.
it was sure nice too see it out in the light today,should get all my doors and fenders later on this week.
will keep you posted.
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on August 05, 2004, 01:07:35 PM
OOOH MY GAWD!! Super nice , Awesome!!   I say ...... You must bring it to the show !!.....finished or not !!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on August 05, 2004, 07:53:42 PM
HOLY S#!T JIM!!!!!!!!.

the paint looks amazing. it may fool some people into thinking its vw polar silver, but i dig it because it looks a little darker and deeper.

top notch paint job. bing knows his stuff.

i may be able to help you tomorrow after school. i'll call you around 230-3pm.

congrat-u-frikkin-lations!!!!! you must be so stoked!! :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Pipes on August 05, 2004, 08:30:06 PM
Wow! Soo awesome to see it nearing the last 1/2!  The fun half :D
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: 1969deluxebus on August 06, 2004, 05:40:11 PM
Man  that looks so sick(that is good)  mad props on all your hard work. Good luck with the rest of the assembly
Matt Street
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 18, 2004, 08:22:30 PM
well after the drags on friday and the car show on sunday ,lets say i was pumped to make some headway. motor is back together and  in, as well as every major componet is mounted,plus today i just picked up a new optima battery too boot.if i can just organise the glass man too stop in that will be done with as well.this sucker is almost ready too fire but , carbs need a few upgrades first,looks like its time to do some wiring.thats always fun!!! GETTING CLOSER
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1204.jpg&hash=f651d86d43d926b6ff0aa190d933b8689af7a66a)
since i'm in a sharing mood  as well as talking to many about motor break in theory,here is my prevenative solution/system.i have been using this for over 15 years and i tell you the wear it cuts down on your bearings is dramatic !!no more waiting for 10 sec for oil pressure too build after you fire it up .just hit the switch and say build 20 psi and then fire it up.sytem preprimes pump/filter/block/cooler ,at one time i even wired it too cycle the pump too keep oil pressure for 10 min after shutting it down.that was overkill.if you are interested in this set-up let me know and i will tell you how too make it,easily under $100.00 bucks.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1206.jpg&hash=8b0db34ca0c520124775d249b53c797ea154ee9d)
see you on the streets soon.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on August 19, 2004, 06:40:09 AM
Okay , I'm interested!  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Black-Back on August 19, 2004, 10:40:30 AM
HOLY S@#T MAN!!!!!!!! that looks great!!!!!!!is that oil pump some sort off household water pump or something?
Lookin' good!!

Mike
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on August 19, 2004, 08:27:48 PM
right on, jim. keep the drive alive. :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 07, 2004, 09:07:24 PM
well its been a few weeks between extra time at work and a busy home life and alot has happend, it took some time but all the windows and trim were assembled and installed.fuel cell was cleaned and installed along with a new mount for it.and now all the wiring is done.which i can tell you was a huge amount of work it has taken over 20 hrs to wire the complete car which included removing completed sections and rerapping with loom tape for a clean look.it also has features never seen on this car before -like a working interior light !!
the car is in a bad spot for pictures but,these photos are from late last week but they will give some idea were i'm at.
windows/lexon is in and wiring is almost done at this point.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1224.jpg&hash=6b46d02e9220d54a31ff6d5c162567db8ee243e5)
fuel cell is in and main harness is rapped in loom tape.just need too tiddy up the main power wires which i left out of the loom for a differant look.window trim looks great.and that cargo are will be free of wiring.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1225.jpg&hash=2ee17428d6c11a906b3d9afd61adca5dcf013d0b)
this shot you can see alot is happening up frt.once i get the trim plates over the speedo and head temp gauge and install the radio block off and glove box door and chrome trim pieces the dash will be great.my 2 favorite parts of the dash are the aluminating knobs for line loc  and nitros arming ,they are made from late model emergency switches.and the rear mounted tach.took that idea from the hulk , great look.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1226.jpg&hash=c13eacbb8bbe870d273d01dbc04d67450eb25a1c).
last night i was up to 1.30 a.m working on it and will continue the late shift after work until its done.so it looks like i'm getting closer.i was at the body shop and all my parts will be ready this friday ,so a few late evenings i should be ready for them.can't wait seams like the tinsil is going on the chrismass tree now.well i better hurry up because i have too make the dglvk's top 10 list before the track closes this year.see you on the streets very very soon.also i'm sorry can't make the sept 19th cruise.ooops my wifes birthday.hey can't remember all the dates.but stranger things have happend.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on September 07, 2004, 09:37:34 PM
Can't wait to see it !!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on September 07, 2004, 09:59:48 PM
Oct 31st is the cutoff for the top 10 Jim - still got some time weather permitting
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on September 07, 2004, 11:10:48 PM
top notch, jim.

the window trim looks great and nos & line-lock button are radical. that dash will light up like a christmas tree at night.

i really wish i had more time on my hands these days so i could come hang out/help/get in the way.

keep it up brotha! :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: dannyboy on September 08, 2004, 07:41:35 AM
dont go too quick! i wanna stay on the top ten this year!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 10, 2004, 04:52:34 PM
danny looks like i can sqeak in there and you can keep a spot,hell i could snap a axle at the line and not even make 1 pass,hope not.
--well its officiaL as of 4.39 today car is just waiting for fenders and doors,should not be long,everything is in and wired,interior looks great against the body colour,and lets say its hard too not just fire it up and drive it as is.i'm off to toronto for a few days next week and hope to come back to my needed body parts . looks like if the weather holds next weekend it very well could be time to unleash 'THE WOK'
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on September 10, 2004, 05:19:15 PM
i'll be doin the sunshine dance for you jim.

man, if i'm all giddy and excited, i cant imagine how you must feel.

cant wait to see you light 'em up. :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 29, 2004, 08:11:36 PM
well alot has happened since the 7th so this is the last update for this year as the project is 95% done.there was so much to do and nobody needed to see a photo of a fender mounted etc.
recap=over the last 8 months the car was stripped-body and pan were seperated-
pan was cleaned and painted-rear suspension was updated,trans was repared-engine was disassembled and repared and updated-complete steel frt clip replaced-refit new fiber glass fender/hood-complete paint-complete interior-rewired and refit hopefully better than new+more stuff than i can even think of,i'm worn out -but very happy with the end result.
--you can't run a marathon without good shoes so as a present to 'the wok'
it gets some new rubber.these are the new m&h d.o.t slicks.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1240.jpg&hash=c8609669c9ba79798a33035d1610d228e709ba6c)
after the shake down run on friday just before i tucked it away for the night i pulled down the lane to click a few photo's.sorry it was very bright out and some of the shots are not so hot,i will try to update them later.
ENJOY.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1239.jpg&hash=827cde6f47997bdeb14c96a448421cf30ba5f308)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1238.jpg&hash=51c9a913e4bedb616ea1426025e244c85abf6fad)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1237.jpg&hash=0889d2ab79eff4b43f9f8f4d7a544a6af21d2f9a)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1236.jpg&hash=51d7ae1b9c65a641aaa140c827a92955c70b9475)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1235.jpg&hash=2cc0fe03bc492a4728e0942a74f70fffd5e3da08)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1233.jpg&hash=941786da8eeb6dda25ece00b3cf36af00d9c4532)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FDCP_1232.jpg&hash=bc26fdd88ce08062c2e9c7b7fa16516c021f3c6d)
-there are a few small things left to do but for now when its sunny i will just enjoy it,its been a long 2 years but now i can sit back for awhile and take it easy for a change.
i hope everone who followed along enjoyed looking at this project as much as i enjoyed posting it.
see you on the streets!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on September 29, 2004, 08:28:46 PM
Congrats Jim! Being at the end of a long journey must feel soooo good!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on September 29, 2004, 08:55:29 PM
the view soon to be admired by many v-8's, ricers, and anything else that gets in the way.

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.shaw.ca%2Fchoptop1%2Fjimscar1%2FDCP_1235.JPG&hash=74a55d65025bf774d2f56d67005e5756a48402d8)

BAM. thats what i'm talking about.

jim, again, congrats on a great build and an awesome car. did sherry enjoy her ride home from work the other day, or what?

every so often, when i look at this car, i get a feeling of the early 70's acvw race cars like the inch pincer too, lightning bug and tar babe. when chops were all the rage and there was a little show mixed with alot of go. this car has a serious attitude. a little racey, a little retro, and 100% \"bidness\".

 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on September 29, 2004, 09:11:31 PM
NIce Job Man!!! That is one sweet car... B)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Matt on September 29, 2004, 09:18:53 PM
Looks fantastic Jim!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 29, 2004, 09:21:34 PM
thanks guys!!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on September 29, 2004, 10:10:01 PM
Kick ass!!!! nice job Jim!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on September 29, 2004, 10:58:43 PM
KILLER!!!! :rockon:  :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 04, 2005, 08:59:15 AM
well it's a whole new year  !!!
after taking some time away just to drive and enjoy my car its come time to get it ready to run again,so many little things to do.
first  was to rebuild some parts of the garage .stage one beef up the doors and stage 2 was get a great working space .doors work great and bench is now well lit and has a 16' work surface and lots of storage .not all sorted out yet but will get there very soon.can't wait to get started on some new upgrades and projects!!!keep ya posted

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0071.jpg&hash=24df0779fdebdbb4344d3736b1657eecfc42b21d)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0072.jpg&hash=a1457b0a2c9f214be269426896a67b0260da1836)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Stephan Schmidt on March 04, 2005, 09:03:26 AM
oh, nice work jim!

I'm going to be ripping apart the garage and cleaning it up this summer for my projects.

Stephan
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: el_flechador on March 05, 2005, 01:01:39 PM
WOW definately one of the pinnacles of what can be done to the humble veedub :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Swartz on March 05, 2005, 01:24:31 PM
Looks awesome!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 23, 2005, 08:04:12 PM
well like i said i got my garage ready to rumble but just couldn't find the time .and lately i'm stressed out so i've been burning the late shift to take my mind of things and make some progress.what i did was when i parked the car last year i went to every section of the car and made list of what needs to be done in each area.its all the small things that need doing to be  100 % complete and if i left the last 10% i would never do them . man there was a lot of small things to do .some small and take seconds and others take all day.but i can safely say i'm 99% my way through all my lists .
lots of small things under the hood but the most important was to finnish of the breather nicely and ditch the coiled rubber hose.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0171.jpg&hash=3f45dab05f23fd44e583ccededbbd8ee5a45d28a)
lights aimed ,and finally got that hood molding on !!i must of spent 6 days finnishing everthing off just under each of the frt fenders and hood,but its done and safe.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0174.jpg&hash=afc5639c1c2e1a8c6841ae1137601d3600f7f18f)
with all the door panels out wax was sprayed in all the seams an since the panels were out i reworked the outer window scrapers to make them a even 1/4\" and give a cleaner look . the running boards were refit and butt nicely to frt and rear fenders. like i said those to-do list of small things was huge but i can move on to more fun stuff now.                                                                                                           (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0177.jpg&hash=0e8867ebf5aea3a2b52c64fd600c19fd2b6cb10f)
as you can see i'm reworking a lot of electronics in order to make it less clutered but more important easier to work on,what a mess
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0179.jpg&hash=84f1847932f5a5206812c82454b8b32de46f591a)
got me a new seat or at least the pad ,not sure if i need it but it can't hurt to have a good support for racing!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0182.jpg&hash=be4d895e04512ea2119a5b38ee66cb7b1ed47499)
ok , now that all the other b.s is out of the way lets look at the good stuff.like i said i'm keeping my mind busy lately so at 10.00 pm the other night i went and pulled my motor so i could install these new cb mounts i got from airspeed.anyone running these mounts be warned that the material on top takes a long time to compress and if you just install them i will garantee the mounting bolts will loosen off.best to sinch them up real tight leave them overnight and let them compress and shape to the trans or heat them with a hot air gun then snug them up. and again leave them to form for a day .after that loctite the mounting bolts and tighten well.
in a earlier post i had made these trick little brackets that sat inbetween the trans and the mounts to lock the rear mount into a solid arrangment but they don't work with this style of mount due to the studs being to short but, i have now come up with a new part that will allow you to run stock rubber mounts then in 5 mins convert to a solid rear mount.pictures to follow when i get the prototypes tested!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0181.jpg&hash=1ec0f00a88db56274176187c1118edac96618776)
since my motor was out and there was a bit of oil seapage from #3 lower cylinder i decided to pop the head off and fix it as well as take a look at how things were holding up.
first on the list was a closer look at #4 cylinder .originally  i thought i had a manifold gasket leak but it turned out to be a cracked intake manifold.you can see if it was left for to long how running that cylinder  lean could damage it.lucky its ok and the valve seat surface is good.you can see how carboned up the combustion area is  from running  to rich a fuel mixture .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0183.jpg&hash=65a30ff9663494430bb802ae6a7440a2e940db59)
here is a good way to know how your motor is doing,next time you replace those leaking exhaust  manifold gaskets take a look at the exhaust valve stem.if its white you are lean, they should be tan  not like this, ouch
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0184.jpg&hash=5ebd901c2d6de2f3ffd63275417906c3d2cca100)
now that i got both heads off and i removed all the cylinders and yes my child and albert rings did seal but will show some neet photos on how much rings rotate around the pistons later on .not what i expected.
WARNING THE NEXT PHOTO IS NOT NICE TO SEE , LOOK CLOSE AT THE LIFTER
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0186.jpg&hash=a8bc397dc7a0c036c779ac604e86b0bbd4a2ba3b)
well , looks like i'm lucky to get 3 months out of a cam and lifters .well 2 cams and 16 lifters later we will try again.i will tell you this coming up winter i will be doing major motor upgrades and will be using a composite lifter for sure and end this cam bullshift for once and for all.
--well its good to be back and i should be rolling soon .i will post some motor assembley stuff  and keep your eye's peeled for the
RAM-AIR system and a bunch of other electronics and tricks

here is a picture of the back up motor i just put together.its a bit small but it packs a punch
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0189.jpg&hash=4ec44051cd0121df9d452c4fd4015d018d70c8c0)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: ScreamnStroker on April 23, 2005, 08:20:20 PM
Quote
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.shaw.ca%2Fchoptop1%2Fjimscar1%2FPICT0189.JPG&hash=1a2bd76d64092c46ec23849bdee29ecb4980a1a4)
I like it!!! :rockon:  :rockon:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on April 29, 2005, 10:39:05 PM
Atleast yyou know where the power is at!!!
I am honered you are sooooo scared to put a time to that car!! ;)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 29, 2005, 08:05:35 PM
well sorry for the lack of update photos but, because of my familys health concerns free time is hard to come by so i've been fitting in what i can ,when i can so photo taking has not been at the top of the list .this has lead to many late nights but, got to admit it's very peacefull outside at 2.00 am. but even with my plate full i've got to drive my car on my 40th in june.
well i've had a few setbacks but the most frightfull was apon removing my gland nut my crank threads were damaged.end result was to roll the dice which ment running a 28/1.5 tap to chase the threads make a jig to support the crank and flywheel on the floor .set the wedgemate install a new fly wheel seal and torque it up and see if the threads hold .well 500 ft/lbs later it was decided to risk it in the car.fingers crossed it holds !!!!
-finnished my upgrades to my wiring which ment sorting it all out and finnish prewiring for futre 2nd nitrous stage as well as fuel injection.some components are moved to new locations and everthing is easly upgraded or tested if need be.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0270.jpg&hash=4a11ff4ca15244f19afaa16080403f4069e7cdd9)
since i love electronics and tuning i decided to order a custom j&s safeguard unit.this unit is a performance ignition retard unit .its modified to allow direct ignition data logging into my LM1 as well as allow a 2nd stage of ignition retard .made a sweet little braket to set it on with enough space beside it for futre placement of a fuel injection ecu.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0271.jpg&hash=1ddf249b1e124864229c1daf89f384c55546ccc5)
unit requires a knock sensor to be mounted i decided a aluminum mount behind the shroud was the best place to put it.can't wait to get this hooked into the LM1 and start testing with it
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0254.jpg&hash=c48ad77b9ffd2030a8c05914ffa5b1857d2250c1)
well engines in and after 2 runs with stock rockers at 2000 rpm for 20 min each i dumped the oil installed the 1.4 and headed out for a test drive :D
took some a/f readings and made a jetting change and hit aircare.well it passed with flying colour so now i'm insured and ready to start tuning and final assemble of a few things.so far engine feels strong and rev's easily to 7500 rpm.time will tell if the flywheel stays put
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0274.jpg&hash=b0b1e3f56d8679f8110652300697193f080a8240)
well you can see i got my alternator in and have sorted out the belt alinment issue .take a look at the trick billet aluminum upper pulley.very nice piece  from airspeed.
now that it is insured and runs i can slow down a bit . i will take a few more photos as i progress with the tuning/ram - air and solid mount set -up.
see you on the streets
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on May 30, 2005, 04:34:00 PM
right on.  :rockon:

way to go jim.

so...i'm trying to wrap my head around this, so please correct me if i'm wrong. the knock sensor is used to determine when & if there is premature ignition in the combustion chamber, and then retards the timing accordingly? or does it determine engine vibration? does it read cylinder by cylinder? if so, with your lm1, will you be able to see exactly what is happening in each cylinder at different rpms, or does the lm1 do that allready?
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 22, 2005, 11:41:48 PM
well lets go backwards for a while.just found some old photo's from 3 years ago and since i have a new toy at home i was able to scan them.
SO YOU WANT TO CHOP A CAR,WELL HERE YOU GO!!!!

--everbody this is TATES first day on the job.you can see since i had chopped the car years earlier things were a bit easier,new templates were made for the windows and i had allread started to section in the new/old rear oval clip.
first of 6 pieces are out.lets get going.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Ffirstcut.jpg&hash=bc1a9b53060bd424d17ed707a7f931069a1ec503)

first sections tacked into place,what a huge help having the templates and old sections to match up to.if only it was all that easy.half of donner roof is on the ground and marked out.left b piller section comes next.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fleft20frt20ection.jpg&hash=1acde49af394095a68271eaf79533c88d2f72f42)

well we move fast at my house.main reason i was able to do alot of prefitting/work on fridays then when tate arrived on sunday he would check my work .if it was ok he would tack it in good and carry on.in this photo b piller section is in as well as c piller section is in but rear clip is waiting triming.
you can see the gaps that already need filling.as well as the old thick filler on the old roof,thats why it had to be rechopped.i was able to use alot of the old rof to fill pieces in luckly.bondo be gone!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2F3sectionin.jpg&hash=341d5fce96f74e441b741c0b11139efd892ea081)
you can see oval clip is waiting trimming and welding.fuel lines are having a nice stretch,wheel arches are good to go.like the old colour?
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fleftsectionfitting.jpg&hash=a3ef451f8a35a419895825470beb66f29fde6fb2)
MONEY SHOT!anyone ever using this photo OWES ME BIG,this is the area everone has trouble with.take your time and it will turn out,good luck here.buy a hammer and dolly
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fquarter20section.jpg&hash=28e9f839ae32f4406d1ef1570249a7e7d18af842)
section between all 3 sections are filled and tacked.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fleftcomplete.jpg&hash=fb49a18bf1e662c5f3e8922d2f3659785511b23c)
quick look at the rear clip .i was lucky because the car was alraedy chopped i could use the old roof shape to aid in the oval sections placement.look close you can see where it was welded in down low.in order to install a rear clip you also need to split it into the inner and outer pieces by drilling out all the spot welds.its the olny way to fit it back in the car.trust me the inner fitting is hell.at this point the inner section is in and also welded to the rear firwall
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fovalinsert.jpg&hash=33a9bb709c52683fbd72fe84ede227b1d6ddcb34)
tada !! left side done.now we can start the right side.you can see i'm trying to keep my freshly done frt suspension clean,not working well.no clip at this point and no dash either.like i said early photos
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fleft20side20welded.jpg&hash=ea915b320dafc2cca6138836c6601a2eba4776d6)
well time fly by,yeah right.and here it is roof in and welded so its ouside for a peak,car couldn't remember the last time it saw sun shine.12 years or more for sure.look close that door need work at the piller.but the roof line is stunning!!!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Ffreshair.jpg&hash=b35d74d0326f941edbd39dc5c232fb39f21b99f0)
good shot from the rear.getting there.old colour was ford pewter metalic
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fbackside.jpg&hash=687e629c18fc5946f008749e97a3f2382cf41937)
all i can say is this was a good day.alot of work up to this point,but the primer was laid down.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fprimed.jpg&hash=b354f82f43f4a1a8ac3de244cd07d9fbab6ce5e1)
i can't tell you and its probably impossible for you to understand the amount of time that goes into a roof chop .there is alot more than you can ever think of.hammering drip rails/doors/all inners etc etc.i hate to think back that far.next time you see my car take a look at the  inner roof work very smooth.
here is a great photo car is almost complete had to do a preassemble for sure/primed and waiting for my motor.if you've see my daughter  lately you can tell alot of time has passed from this photo to present
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fashley.jpg&hash=83e5637e1e316b964a0713d5ff1b42259677e75c)
now if you are stupid enough to try this yourself and get stuck ,dont call me i'm done with body work  :D
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 28, 2005, 05:42:35 PM
well i need to occupy myself somehow so i figured i would do it here.
--recap of my summer.
-MAY, replace another cam and get motor reasembled and take to aircare for some abuse but wind up with a solid 100% pass.
-JUNE,get car running and enjoy a night of cruising for my 40th
-JUNE,head to DGLVK fathers day show .have a great time and wind up with a pair of beautiful trophies,[thanks dglvk!!]
-JULY,birth of my second daughter.   Jessica Isobel Martin
-JULY,decide to head to the track and dial in some jetting .everthing was going along fine until i decided to bring the revs up and preload and launch the car,end of the day :( should of just kept rolling away at the lights.lesson learned racing finds the weak spot in any vehicle .mine was overlooking my engine support bar.
-JULY,pull engine and trans,dissasemble trans and send to rancho for repare ,straighten bent frame horns,dissasemble motor again to repare a damaged #1 main bearing.
-AUGUST,slap motor together figuring that the impact at the track and possible end play problem caused falure[wrong]drive vehicle to GCVWS and end up getting 2 prizes ,the first is a beautiful wall mount trophie and the second is a secret .Shhhh if you know.
-SEPTEMBER,discover while testing new trans mounting and prepareing for a 100 shot day at the track that there is a bad vibration  from my motor.
-SEPTEMBER,pull motor to discover #1 bearing is gone again ,crank is bent and lifter are flaking,everthing is sent for repare and i sit and wait for parts to return.
-SEPTEMBER 28TH,after a long fight with cancer my father passes away.
so you can see its been one hell of a roller coaster summer with many highs and lows can honestly  tell you i'm waiting for 2006 .
--here is a few of my favourite picts of the summer .

my gals
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0457.jpg&hash=0eb5fc47165acddd5aab6682f827e832fb1d9beb)
ashley sleeping after a nice icecream cruise.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0461.jpg&hash=f6880c80d17f67c6eeb6d24cc23f0ca1ff2da41d)
summer show
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0474.jpg&hash=7ad87cf1974579d038b89bfa33bdd1595568c7eb)
trophies
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0528.jpg&hash=e50576a0cf0ac041e6a2171537c778c1547c1c04)
and a few favorite pics
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0480.jpg&hash=dceb1c06284b992d93dad68d80c9781ea0fd32b6)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0476.jpg&hash=0f7ed7f8bd635d5618acf9c5064e08821f98141e)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2FPICT0475.jpg&hash=dbbe2444d4ca9aacd595441ee544862a79cfe865)

anyway i had a quite alot of people e-mailing me with questions  over the summer,and i know many of them went unanswered as i had my mind on other things.so the best thing to do ,since my motor is litterd all over my floor .is start THE GREAT CANADIAN NITROUS KNOWLEDGED THREAD. we will start with the case and finnish with a 100 shot at the track .and cover everthing thats needed inbetween.




--
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on September 28, 2005, 05:51:51 PM
Jim, I just read about your father passing away, I'm very sorry to hear that. I went thru the same thing a few years ago with my Mom.

My thoughts are with you and your family.
Take care.
Geoff.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 28, 2005, 06:09:13 PM
thanks geoff  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: nivag on September 28, 2005, 07:28:23 PM
That's one hell of a summer... I love the pic of your daughter sleeping in the car, I can't wait to cruise my son/ daughter in my cal looker on beautiful summer day.

Sorry to hear of your dad... best wishes to your family.

Gavin
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on September 28, 2005, 07:43:14 PM
Same Jim - I lost My dad in 2000 and it still tears me up - Best wishes buddy, call if you need anything.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on September 29, 2005, 05:03:07 PM
Manda and I send our Condolences... My Dad passed away in '97. Always hang on to the good times...
You need anything man we are there.
 PS I also love the shot of your daughter in the car... :wub:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 07, 2005, 11:35:42 PM
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fjimscar%2Fnitrous_engine_build_1.jpg&hash=37a356595e1857632a280c2fad4845b1aff871d3)

after getting 'THE WOK' finnished and attending two car events this summer and because of  the airspeed  forum, i have recieved alot of questions regarding engine assembley,tuning and nitrous etc.so i figured it would be alot of fun to do a complete engine series starting with engine build up and finnishing at the track.there is so much to cover inbetween so i'm hoping this will be a informative topic that will give alot of people an idea of what it takes to desighn,assemble,tune and maintain a stroker motor.this will be impossible to due without mentioning product manufactures ,so i will due my best to give the reasons i choose them.and if you have any questions or comments i will due my best to answer them,so please no e-mails post them here as someone else is probably wondering the same thing you are.
  LETS GET ROLLING.the motor being coverd is the same motor thats been in[and out] of my car over the last few years. it was desighned and buildt as a test/relearning motor that i could base my futre engines from and experiment with tuning aids and performance enhancers and overall it has proved quite durable .but at the same time i have suffered from many mechanical falures.3 cams and lifter sets,piston ring falure and a bent crank.some things you can't control ,just learn from them and carry on and make adjustments along the way. remember speed costs money ,so throw your bently manual out the window , break out the charge cards and lets build a nitrous motor.

tools , tools ,tools ,you don't need alot of special hand tools but you will need some good quality measuring equipment .most are avalible at princess auto,kms tools,lordco, sears etc.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Ftoolset.jpg&hash=2cefda040d407c2ca8c4740b94eec0916c450120)
 
this is the reason my motor came apart again.this problem is the same thing they talked about on monster garage,seizing #1 main bearing.for me i could careless about the falure but what caused it ,is the most important.
oil starvation,bent crank,align bore.all these points came up ,and like i said learn from the mistakes.this is like the which came first the chicken or the egg thing.i may never know if the crank bent causing the falure or the crank bending is the result .but i'm sure i've figured it out,later topic.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbearing_20seizing.jpg&hash=12b0d269854db8edc08d800c6f8204cf9f0a2293)

so the first thing after everthing was dissasembled was inspection of parts.knowing the crank was having a bearing falure ,it was the first thing to check.if you don't have a set of V blocks to rest the crank on to check it ,you can rest the crank in the one case half so that is running on only 2 bearings.#2 and #4 are the best as you can measure the run out on the #1 main journal and the #3 main journal using a dial indicator.the picture really shows how to check it using the dial indicator/magnetic base,just set it to zero and slowly rotate the crank.in this photo the end of the crank was bent .0025 \"from the #2 bearing forward,when i measured it at the #3 journal it was still straight.my theory is the seizing bearing was causing the one end of the crank to bind/lock up ,and with the rest of the crank easily rotating and appling a great deal of force into the rest of the crank ,this caused the bend.seams to make sence.but what caused the seizing bearing?later
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbentcrank.jpg&hash=bc48c212325eb46c4c30000e9b786ca4d24743ed)

this crankshaft is a demello full circle crankshaft,the reason i bought this crank is due to it great reputation for smooth running at high rev's and also because it is the same crank the USA military uses in it combat vehicles.and because of my vehicles weight i wanted more rotating mass [ yes it's heavier than most cranks] to help prevent on line bog when releasing the clutch at the track.you should of heard bob at demello when i told him i bent my crank,anyway he took care of it for me and repared it asap.
sorry should of posted this photo earlier so if your not sure of the lay out of a vw crankshaft you would know what i was talking about.note the 4 main journals are all in a row down the centre and the rod journals are on the outer portion.you can see from the crank centerline to the centerline of each of the rod journals is 41mm for a total of 82 mm total .this means that this crank will move a piston up and down a cylinder 82 mm every rotation.
so why put a bigger crankshaft into a motor? easy, torque produced  from any engine comes from the energy being released from the ignited fuel.so more fuel = more energy =more torque.in the case of a larger crankshaft just think of a syringe.pull up on the plunger and take in 10 cc of fluid,this time pull back on the plunger and take in 20 cc of fluid.you just stroked a syringe ,its the same as going from a stock 69mm stroke to a 82 mm stroke.i think you get it .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcrankstats.jpg&hash=74cbdb02607ecdfd4c19c1d0e7ed71b719f23e97)

well now my crank is back and its time to check and measure it.so back into the case it goes for the same test as before.
this time much better results.dead straight! thanks bob.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fzerorunout.jpg&hash=34ea02b6d783a83a4790e15d89669b500c62111f)

this is a better shot of were the dial indicator is set when measuring crank run out.this same procedure is used when checking for a bend/run out at the #3 main journal as well
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Frunout.jpg&hash=0a7c44e1dd1cb29d1684cea33cb796940c4f66e7)

now that i have a straight crank better check all the journals for roundness and size,in order to do this you need to use a micrometer.before you use any measuring tool it is important to make sure its calibrated.in this case a preset block is inserted between the measuring portion of the micrometer and it is used to calibrate it to zero,look close this tool is out and will need adjusting ,which is done by using a supplied tool to alighn the marks

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fmicsetup.jpg&hash=e989387de28576e7d35c3e6d9399141fc86073c5)
with my crank suported in the v blocks you can see that i checked the #1 main journal in 3 places.bob did his work and it is perfect measuring at 2.1544\". you need to take your time and measure all 4 main journals and all 4 rod journals using the same technic.record all these measurment as you are going to need these very soon
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fmeasuring_231crank.jpg&hash=29ab1397978efbb7bc39baf1a07c9ca09800cf76)

now we can use the same technic on the cam that we used for the crank.first measure all 3 bearing journals and record there measurments.
in this case they measure 0.9846
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcam_20measurments.jpg&hash=875b8020977bd04099e633a6d613ecf78c7b79ab)
hey you got the tools so better check run out on the cam.check it like this as well as support it at each end and put the dial indicator on #2 journal and check for run out as well
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcamrunout1.jpg&hash=e631ed363a1664b0240b7e68fdf032611607d203)
now i know i said toss the bently book out.that is because we are building a performance motor and not a stock motor so remember the rules have changed.but in the case of run-out for the crank and cam and crank and cam journal size it is to be used as a referance only
cam run-out=.0008\"max/crank run-out=.0008\"max
lets worrie only about measuring run-out and recording journal diameter's,we will get into the details later
 better measure that new oil pump housing and make sure its round.again record the measurements.not bad .0001\"out of round
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fpumpcross.jpg&hash=a397d9293b33efbb8422d8f6143c6a291b99241e)

you can see i started a chart with everthing i have measured .this is going to be a huge help when we start measuring out the case  and working out oil clearances and end play etc.don't worrie it will all come together
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fnewsheet.jpg&hash=aa755dd2046c06ada889587587c0ea5fc79271e8)

well i think its a good start and i hope easy to follow , i can't believe all we did was measure 3 things .next is the case
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on November 08, 2005, 07:31:48 PM
very cool jim. if you need a hand let me know.  ;)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Mowser on November 08, 2005, 07:54:00 PM
Wow, Great idea Jim.  Hey Geoff / Jason, how bout getting this guy his own spot in the AirSpeed Projects forum so everyone will see this?
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: slammedbus on November 08, 2005, 09:28:02 PM
That is a good idea Mo.


Hey Jim. I always explain torque advantages from a stroker to my students like this. You exert a force on a lever that is 69 mm long and get X amount of torque. What would happen to the amount of torque if I made that lever 82mm long and applied the same amount of force??  Seems to sink in to the little uns.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Billyisgr8 on November 08, 2005, 10:26:23 PM
Excellent...how many people build their engines and just throw together parts...This is a good how to session for proper engine building.  

Awsome how to job.

Kevin
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 11, 2005, 12:44:12 AM
Quote
That is a good idea Mo.


Hey Jim. I always explain torque advantages from a stroker to my students like this. You exert a force on a lever that is 69 mm long and get X amount of torque. What would happen to the amount of torque if I made that lever 82mm long and applied the same amount of force??  Seems to sink in to the little uns.
great example !

remember that a crankshaft is the component that turns liner piston motion into rotation.and rotation is measured in torque.
i think we are at the point where engine displacement becomes a topic.engine displacement is basicaly the amount that is displaced from the point at where the piston starts its movment to the point at which it stops moving,that total volume times the number of cylinders is the total engine displacement and vw engines seem to be measured in cubic centimeters [cc's] .there is many online engine displacment calculators avalible ,so look one up and plug in some bore and stroke numbers and you can see quickly what effects what.so go back to the syringe for a moment as its easy to visualize,if you increase the size of the plunger [piston] or increase the amount you pull the plunger back [crankshaft],you have increased the amount of fluid you have drawn into the syringe[displacement].now we go the other way.when the fuel is ignited it causes the piston to be pushed back down the cylinder,the bigger the piston the greater the force pushing on it.the piston is connected by a rod which in turn is connected to the outer journals of the crankshaft.and the farther away the outer rod journals are away from the main bearing journals the greater the leverage will be .and that leverage from the rotating crank is measured in torque.so by increasing the crankshaft or the piston size we are going to generate more torque.remember that there is no replacement for displacement ,so build them big and burn lots of fuel because the power comes from the fuel
,great to see some input.

since i'm still in a measuring mode and my case will not be back till next friday i finnished up premeasuring my crankshaft endplay.first the reason this is a little harder to do is because this is a wedgemated crankshaft.which means the end of the crank which the flywheel bolts onto has a taper machined onto it and the flywheel has the mating surface welded up and machined to the exact same taper as the crankshaft.when these two pieces are put together and torqued they become a almost inseperatable piece.if you have ever tried to take a tie rod off of your steering knuckle you know how strong a taper fit can be.so since it's alot of work to seperate a wedgmate its best to try to minimize the amount of times you need to do it.as well you can damage the wedgemate surfaces from repeat assembley/dissasembley.
you can see here the actual taper machined into the crankhaft end.and like i said the flywheel has the mirror image of it machined into it.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fwedgemate.jpg&hash=00e14f2711d15c83e373150801da7c2175ebeb04)
first install your #1main bearing onto the crank and using your depth guage measure down to the bearing.i try this in a few differant spots and take the average reading as its very hard to get a 100%same reading at all spots you most likely will be a .001\" out on avg.you see i got .368\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcrankendplay.jpg&hash=6fac8f1e95e97f78c810754f190cbc0a365c7cd8)
then measure with your depth guage spanned across the flywheel down to the mating surface of the flywheel.we get 0.3265\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fflywheeldepth.jpg&hash=0953e511cfdc9813f83b4e92a3dedcfe85d51b71)
now what we do is minus the two numbers and come up with the dimension between the end of the #1 bearing and the flywheel we get.0415\"
now inbetween the two parts you need to run a min of 3 shims this will set your endplay as well as keep the flywheel from contacting and destroying the bearing.now i'm going to run .007\" endplay so i needed to get .0345\" in shims.what luck i have 3 that work out perfectly.shims are avalible in all kinds of thicknesses and last time i was at airspeed i picked up  a whole bunch of sizes so i would have a good assortment at home when the time came.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fshimpack.jpg&hash=f96214e9ef8b0b0315b7e8aebea8d855abc4bc0f)
we will see how good this premeasurment works out after the bearing is preloaded in the case and the flywheel is torqued up.i'm interested to know myself.again the measurements are marked down on the chart .might start measuring out the rods while i wait for my case.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Mike Scott on November 11, 2005, 10:20:32 AM
I love you Jim
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 11, 2005, 07:18:37 PM
i hope this is easy to follow,i'm trying to make it so anyone can understand no matter what level.
also you may have noticed i measure in inches instead of metric,sorry i have always measured engine parts in inches mainly due to 99% of machine shop's measure in inches and when things are being farmed out you better speak the same language.  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on November 11, 2005, 08:08:04 PM
You around tmrw Jim - I'll give ya a shout in the early PM if you are.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 01, 2005, 12:12:51 AM
THE CASE,this is probably the most overlooked part in any build ,but it is the most important.in my opinion with aftermarket parts being made everywhere and by everyone there is no standard of quality or dimension.the name goes on before the quality goes in .keep that in mind and check everthing 3 times ,because i can garantee the one thing you overlook may be quite costly and frustrating in the end.but don't worrie live and learn and don't do it again.like i said before i figured out what caused my bearing falure so lets get the crank spinning and see if it all makes sence.where to start.
first we need to come up with some kind of dimension.so lets look at the chart .a good radial main bearing oil clearance for a vw motor is between .0025\"-.0030 \"so if we add that to the main bearing size we get 2.1569\" as a target.not deadly important as we are just getting started.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fchart.jpg&hash=80b3ba9b947a52c42221fe476a291c96b6fea1fb)
check you equipment,this mic is out .001\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fmiccalibration.jpg&hash=200ae93146c8ef3b955198699f120724a8eeeeda)
now set your bore guage.first set your mic to the target dimension .2.1569\"then set you bore gauge inbetween the two pads on the mic and rotate the dial to ZERO . you will need to rock the boreguage in the mic to get it dead on.once you try it you will know what i mean.i have made 2 marks one on either side of zero.left is black and right is red.so anything in the black is above the target dimension and anything in the red is less than the target dimension.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fsettingboregauge.jpg&hash=5cdfe115e8ffef48e7bc7b71e502e2222befb40d)
you need to understand that it is impossible to bolt a case together and torque it up and have the bores dead round .the main bearings need to be in the case to alighn the two haves .but you can take some rough measuremnets without bearings to see if the case looks close to specs.those dimensions are in the bently book.after rough measuring mine i new i was in trouble but getting closer to my answer of why my bearing failed.
since i never use the stock #3 bearing i seam to have a endless supplie of them so what i do is load up my case with those.yes #1/2/3 main bores are all the same dimension.
take a look at my # 3 bearing in the #1 bore you can see i marked 2 black area's on the bearing .those are there to remind me to watch out for the oil galleys in the bearing which will upset your measurments.you can also see the locations of measurement points a/b/c/d these are the 4 point i take measurments from remember them as i will refer to them many times.
what was done was to take a measurement at one point .loosen the case and rotate the bearing to the next point ,torque it up and remeasure.this was done for a 4 measurment referance points on all 4 bearings.CASE TORQUE IS HUGE AND WE WILL GET TO THAT LATER.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F3in1bore.jpg&hash=79967795e5883fdb86e7a330316b1e735694e994)
sound like alot of work but it goes alot quicker than you think.
this is how you use a bore gauge ,it is self correcting because the 2 wheels keep it straight and all you have to do is rock it back and forth in the bearing bore and  watch the guage .you will figure it out quick once you try one.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fmeasure_231again.jpg&hash=dfc3584e808e45d84e8c1b176fca841899b35075)
this is what i ended up with
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fchartbore.jpg&hash=e80fc4321815bb7adb50e80d0ae4d35366332343)
#2 and # 3 mains were almost dead on with less than 0.0005\" out of round !!!.but look at #1 main bearing.you can see that there is in the end no radial clearance.i could not even turn my crank with the case halves just resting together and the crank would be pinched and unable to turn.
this is a better picture of the boregauge in use .don't let your guide wheels fall into the oil galleys,there is a way to do it i will show you later.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fmeasuringsmall1.jpg&hash=47ea64d27f366fa336b3a2ccde92d73ca1823204)
i was going to line bore my case myself but i figured i will send it to rocky
at-- rock jennings (http://www.rockyjennings.com/)-- this guy know his stuff and has a excellent web site,shipping back and forth is cheap as well .under $40.00 cdn to send my case there from vancouver.rocky inspected my case and i told him to make the call.end result rebore to stock dimension #1 main bore only.he eneded up taking out about .0025\" with the cutters set at stock dimension.not bad if i remember that's how much it measured small !!.
take a look you can see the area's in black are where material was removed.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Flinebore.jpg&hash=aa4f326c1c40f676ba3fac044db14098ffed84b9)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Flinebore1.jpg&hash=f0893a937c8ce347d41bc2e33c65167e54334a72)
don't think its out of round trust me it's less than .0002\"out.
well with the case back and a quick check with the old #3 bearing in #1 main again it was time to install the main bearing set i would be using.
----missing picture here-------
this i found very interesting and added more pieces to my puzzle of bearing falure.with the bore gauge set and case torqued  to 25 ft/lbs then later increased  to 32 ft/lbs.i took my measurments.but this time as i was using the bearing set i will run in the motor now bearings were not rotated or moved.this is how you sneak past the oil galleys
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fanglemeasure_231.jpg&hash=dcf868f37cd8c48d7ceb05c12ba45bac6b5805cd)
you can see that the dimension at 'A' parting line of the case does not change.with measuring point 'B' &'D' changing less than .0005\" but at measuring point 'C' there was a differance of .001\" wow!again note this is bearing radial clearance,take note.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_231bearingfirst_20torque.jpg&hash=776fcee9b898e56c284385b106043ac0253d79e1)
i opend the case up and slipped my cam bearings in as well so i could measure them and again torque the case up to  25 ft/lbs on the 6 large nuts.wow!my measurements changed.so i marked them down and retorqued to 32 ft/lbs.take a look the dimension at 'A' stayed the same between the first round of measuring  and the second round of measuring but all the other dimensions changed by about .001\" smaller.as well as note the dimensions at both 25 and 32 ft/lbs changed the  same amount from the first set of measurements to the second set of measuremnets
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F2ndtorque.jpg&hash=484b0c3fc1e671ec65d1d08bfa7368d751547549)
maybe the #1 main by desigh is slower to compress than the other bearings.i tryied this again with another new #1 main bearing with almost the same results.can't explain it but take notice that you may want to run your bearing set through a few torque cycles to make sure you get a acurate radial oil clearance.
#1 radial oil clearance 0.0025\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_231radialclearance.jpg&hash=c69076560e3bed6e52c6c34c7abe4e09419edfff)
measuring #2 radial oil clerance 0.0025\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_232radialclearance.jpg&hash=464b1b118c799798ae166d81159d7952b1834f61)
measuring #3 radial oil clearance 0.003\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_233radialclearance.jpg&hash=e122e62c331b4cd30867758a66d3a556a515e44e)
now it's a bit different to measure #4 main radial clearance .but this is what i like to do.first take your crank measurement of 1.5647\" and add say .001\" set your mic to that dimension 1.5657\" and insert your telescoping bore gauge between the two mic pads.and not the drag as you rock the boregauge between the centre point of the mic and remember that feeling
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fsetting_234boregauge.jpg&hash=2c24cad964c5a96972e96d15bef6e2dbe4655d58)
then take your set telescoping bore gauge and go to your case .insert the telescoping bore gauge into the bearing in all 4 positions and roll the gauge back and forth past centre and see if there was any contact.in this case there was not so i will increase another .001\" ,set mic at 1.5667\" and go through the whole procedure again.what i ended up with is a reading of between .0025\" and .0030\"radial oil clearance for th e#4 main bearing which is excellent.that same technic i just described will be used again later .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_234radialclearance.jpg&hash=f67415788a9ae18c0881b1f6509bbe1f469b9b13)
for kicks and gigles i oiled up all the main bearings and install the crank into the case and torqued it up.and she spins as free as could be !!!!!
--so the three questions are what caused the falure,what has been learned,what is being done to prevent it from happening again.
---the cause? is simple ,first don't believe everthing you read or heard.if you don't have first hand knowledge  of something you better learn quick and tripple check everthing if you do it.in the case of my case this is how it goes.i measured out my radial main bearing oil clearance and never checked it again, :( but now i know that my #1 main seams to compress a additional .001\" after a couple rounds of torquing.so right off the bat my .0025\" oil clearance dropped to .0015\".as you can see here my case has all the small outside bolts and the 6 inner bolts modified with a gene berg conversion,larger hardware.                                                                      
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbergnut.jpg&hash=9edd87db9a5766d4858a6ac5b67e388a8213a633)
these instructions come with the parts and instructions about modifieing your engine case torque to increase case life .sounded good to me so i did it .hey it comes from gene berg so it must be good info.what they don't tell you is that the case deforms when more torque than the factory 25 ft/lbs is applied.that's my fault for not tripple checking that.so you can see by increasing my torque i most likely lost another .001 clearance .so you can see i was running a oval main bore and .0005\" radial clearance.no wonder things seized up.
whats learned ?run bearings through a few torque cycles,don't trust everthing you read or heard,and you can modifie your bearing clearance by modifing your case torque if needed.if you are going to run higher case torque get it linebored torqued to your specs
--prevension, correct measuring of all parts is #1 /modifications to crankshaft end play/ bearings and oil system all which will be covered later.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: OUTKAST on December 01, 2005, 02:53:56 AM
You are Amazingly gifted, Never realized the amount of knowledge needed to do a proper build up or the potential variables to get caught up in .Your thread is extremely intresting and understandable Thanks for taking the time and effort to do this for the forum members .Great job  :)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 01, 2005, 08:40:02 PM
Quote
You are Amazingly gifted, Never realized the amount of knowledge needed to do a proper build up or the potential variables to get caught up in .Your thread is extremely intresting and understandable Thanks for taking the time and effort to do this for the forum members .Great job  :)
thanks ,i'm glad you are finding it easy to follow .
this last section with some of the case variables is a bit much but i hope the info there will help someone else down the road
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 01, 2005, 09:41:42 PM
well using the previous measurments from my new shadeck oil pump i set my mic and set the bore guage.the case was torqued up with all the bearings and the camshaft installed.it was time to measure out the oil pump bore.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Foilpumpsmall.jpg&hash=3242c2fb0ad3a80cb36e7049bdb7fd1574ce3d03)
since my pump was almost perfect and without a stock pump to take a measuremnt from i had to assume that the spec in the bently book would help give me a idea of pump to case clearance.my book says pump bore
is 2.7560\"-2.7580\"minus my 2.7555\" pump housing and i get a clearance of
0.0005\"-0.0025\"
so with this in mind i will need to clearance my housing to better fit my pump.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Foilpumpdiagram.jpg&hash=ac3546f80d79bc47a48580aa3841dcea5b7ced90)
the area's in blue and the width will need a little clean up and be remeasured.
what i used was a flapper 220 grit sanding wheel mounted in a drill and was very carefull to keep it square to the pump bore.
now if i have the 6 large nuts torqued up but the outer bolts loose i can just about slid it in.it is tight and has about .001\" clearance all around it.
my concern was that since the case was not even at the parting line that installing the pump could toss it out of wack .with the pump in and the case fully torqued up cam and crank spin freely!!.
better check that oil seal as well .dont want a leak here.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Foilseal.jpg&hash=94afc05658850f484d567c022a16d4525394213e)
you can see that my seal bore is well within limits and is good to go.
next is the camshaft and lifters .then its preassembley time!!!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Hansk on December 01, 2005, 10:24:30 PM
Nice article Jim. Sure shows the way things should be done. Awesome!  Specially when using today's replacement and after market parts.  Like , having to get your brand new case re-machined to get it within tolerance.  I'm sure 99.999% of the motors never get checked out like this. If they were , the manufacturer would have a huge pile of them returned back to their door step.Maybe even through their front window [_[  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 02, 2005, 10:02:11 PM
Quote
Nice article Jim. Sure shows the way things should be done. Awesome!  Specially when using today's replacement and after market parts.  Like , having to get your brand new case re-machined to get it within tolerance.
you have no choice but to do it this way .because there are alot of good quality parts out there and alot of poor quality parts out there being produced.it is up to you in the end to make them fit and work together. remember,on average these kind of motors are putting out on ONE cylinder what a complete stk motor put out on all its FOUR cylinders.
so assembley is going to be slow as there is alot of things that will creap up.now you can understand why a well assembled motor is expensive.labour intensive.
-what will i do next time,find a seasoned original case and get it machined .as i believe the quality of any new brazilian mag case is poor.or bite the bullet and get rocky to machine up a oxyboxer case which is probably the smartest move.

 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 13, 2005, 11:30:06 PM
well since the mystery of what caused my #1 bearing falure is solved and the crank spins very freely with the case torqued up its time to move on to the CAMSHAFT.
now since i have gone through 3 cam and lifter sets i can honestly say there is no for sure combination to use .so i'm officially done with steel lifters and have moved on to schubecks composite lifters.my advice to anyone using a performance camshaft is if you want to gamble with steel lifters just make sure that you buy products from the same maunfacture and follow there break in procedure,will cover that later on.
in order for any cam and lifter combination to work there has to be lifter rotation/lubrication.this is needed or the cam would contact the lifter in the same spot ever time and cam and lifter falure would be rapid.as well as the cam and lifter contact surface is lubricated from oil thrown of of the rotating crank[splash lube].that is why on a new steel lifter set it is important to keep the revs up around 1800 rpm .this makes sure that enough oil is splashed onto the lifter contact surface while the new cam and lifter work harden themselves .again we are at the break in thing again and that will be later.but for me i don't need to worrie about cam break in this time !!!!
in order to get the lifter to rotate there is 2 things needed lifter crown and camshaft taper.
camshaft taper is measured on the nose of all the cams lobes.the nose is the highest part of the cam or the pointy end if you like.easy to measure by setting your cam in v blocks or better yet a lathe.i have turned one of the lobes straight up and zero'd my dial indicator on one end of the lobes nose.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcamtaper.jpg&hash=737aed3aba6c7ab560bb25ac23337f6044aef9ca)
since my dial indicator is mounted on the floating table of the lathe it easy to slide the dial indicator along the nose of the cam lobe by cranking the table back and fourth.
this lobe has 0.001\" taper .not bad. should be between 0.001\"-0.002\" taper on all lobes .if not return your camshaft.CHECK ALL 4 LOBES !!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2FLOBETAPER1.jpg&hash=eb5ed21c2d992c68e74fcbfc5172c5fb5f119418)
with the lifters mounted in the lathe the dial indicator is zero'd on the edge of the lifter face to start.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcrown0.jpg&hash=d98f6e30b404ee068e6328e299bc4283def2f640)
now its easy because the dial indicator is mounted on the floating table you can sweep the dial indicator across the lifter face ,past centre and over to the other edge of the lifter face.
this lifter has a positive crown of 0.001\" -i would like to see more but schubecks says its enough with this lifter desighn. most of my other steel lifters had 0.002\"-0.0025\" positive crown.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcrown1.jpg&hash=e11090f5655edd5e19bfcab40a00d6d794caddb6)
take a look at this photo and you can see how it all works.with the combination of the cam lobe being offset to one side of the lifter centreline ,plus a taper on the lifter nose plus a crown on the lifter .evertime the camshafts lobe wipes across the lifter face it will make it rotate.now you can see why a motoroil with high shear resistance is so important to cam and lifter survival.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Flifterrotation.jpg&hash=08ee4044fcfe66952f1b78699171b3190bfc8159)
- with cam bearings mounted in the case halves its time to set end play first.you can see i'm running 0.003\" end play .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcamplay.jpg&hash=61748934e87586eb07de555a3e492d458d4b240a)
this was not the case right away .on first try the cam would hardly drop into the bearings so i had to hand clearance one of the thrust sides of the #1 thrust bearing.this is best done using a sheet of 400-600 grit emery paper on a glass surface.put some oil on it and use even /light presure and try 10 scrubes at a time and reclean the bearing and test end play again.remember there is 2 bearing halves to do so take your time and get them dead on.as well as make sure you take material off from the same sides [i always do the forward edge].its easy to forget which way the cam bearings fit into the case.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fsandbearing.jpg&hash=b6b2c507d217ef656194b216a43967287b90e821)
well with the end play set its time to oil the cam up and install it in the case and torque it up with the main bearings installed  to aide in case alignment.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcamin.jpg&hash=a0dbcd6b2dc3d509e9fea0c9401c260ee8316e4d)
now you can reach in a cylinder bore and try to rotate the cam.well it turned smooth but not as free as i liked so out she comes.
retorque the case and set the  telescoping bore gauge to the camshaft dimension recorded earlier and start increasing the telescoping bore gage .0005\" at a time until you get a slight drag as it rocks past centre.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcamradial.jpg&hash=974ca36cd62c0b9a45f58dc0685f1e30337018b1)
i ended up with 0.9855\"so minus the cam journal measurment of 0.9846\" and that gives me a radial cam clearance of 0.0009 \"thats ok for a stock motor but not a performance motor .we need more oil cushion due to the loads being put on the cam from high rpm and valve spring pressures.
good thing to do at this point is to use plastigauge on all the cam journals to do two things.first see if you measured correctly as well as to see if its only one bearing tight.
lay a piece of the plastigauge on all 3 journals
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fplasjournals.jpg&hash=cb7b8689ed520126eb7bb283034e9d1bf9fd9e26)
retorque the case and don't turn the cam.unbolt and take a look.first you should have a even pattern on all the journals and use the paper pacage to check your measurements.mine were all good and look were pretty close at 0.001\".yes plastigauge does work.
-well i wanted more radial  clearance so i put the cam back into my lathe and using some lube and 3 stages of emery cloth 220-400-600 grit i took another .0009\" off all 3 journals which by the way took me to the stock min dimension of 0.9837\" so  my new camshaft radial oil clearance is 0.0018\"
remember my intial cam journal measurement of 0.9846\" if you compare that in a bently book you will see that this camshafts journal were ground larger than the factory max of 0.9842\".check all your parts!!!!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fresizedcam.jpg&hash=ea4e83f76764e1209448749f5cd7aa9ec21b597f)
while the cam was in the lathe i checked all the lobes for lift using the dial indicator.not bad 0.397\" lift will need that for later when settin up cam timing.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcamlift.jpg&hash=0e800147763acdab3ac8ac2e9391d5ef04535438)
 -- these are SCHUBECKS (http://www.schubeckracing.com/)          composite lifters repacaged by WEB-CAM (http://www.webcamshafts.com/) camshafts
.AIRSPEED (http://www.airspeedparts.com/) now stocks these lifters.first inspection there is a small oil hole just like the SCATT (http://www.scatvw.com/) lube a lifters.just another way to keep oil on the lifterface during low rpm use/idle.so whats the big deal,weight around 51 grams/higher pushrod cup so you can use a shorter pushrod/never wear out ,swap all the cams you want and run any spring pressure!!and not worrie!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F3lifters.jpg&hash=bd106bfab026dba2b224cdb18019956ce7c75d1d)
measured all the lifters at 0.7465\".
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fliftermeasure.jpg&hash=5fb16e187baef206a001cde705b49d307ed8506b)
set the telescoping bore guage and start testing for radial clearance. i ended up with 0.001\"-0.0015\" radial lifter clearance
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Flifterbore.jpg&hash=5a9e1e44fec79bbd5f0fa89e3cbb5ad0b2b8ea8b)
i took the same measurment ofn the mic and slid it up the lifter ,you can see it doesn't look like it but there is a small radious starting a fare way down which will take some attention.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Flifterradus.jpg&hash=be1a4cb1210c121c4e51d105f7b6644a27bce6da)
with out added clearance in the case to allow for the lifterradious you can see how high the lifter sits and at this point there is no way my cam would clear .these lifters really need to drop all the way in
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Flifterhigh.jpg&hash=0acb4f87ac845fd8423d466843eae0831c7f5236)
so thanks to darren k . for lending me a slick tool he made to blend in a little more radious on the lifter bores which allows the new lifter to drop all the way in.well know one know's for sur but there is a rumour that these lifters are ok to run in a aluminum case but not in a magnesium case.schubecks told me it was ok .but i was concerned and have taken some info i've read and decided to rebush the lifter bore with silicon bronze.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fplastycloseup.jpg&hash=2aff30ce9d87cea4bfd7b05a29c7a89dd9b7c82d)
the job was done by VALLEY VW. and even though there prices was fair the shipping was not and i even had issues with a the radious at the tops and slight tapper in a few bronze sleeves at the bottom .but shes all good now.so if you are going to run these in a mag case talk to my friend ROCKY at ROCK JENNINGS (http://www.rockyjennings.com/) in walla walla washington he is now set up for doing single orders at any time with aprice of $150.00 us .take a look at his website its great.
-next is rods and bearings a look at full flow and case prep and its short block time.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Cameron on December 16, 2005, 03:54:16 PM
Tolerance is the amount of variation permitted on dimensions, or surfaces of machine parts. The tolerance is equal to the difference between the maximum and minimum limits of any specified dimension. For example, if the maximum diameter of a shaft is 2.000 inches, and its minimum limit is 1.998 inches, the tolerance for this diameter is 0.002 inch. By determining the maximum and minimum clearances required on operating surfaces, the extent of these tolerances is established. As applied to the fittng of machine parts, the word tolerance means the amount that duplicate parts are allowed to vary in size, in connection with manufacturing operations, owing to unavoidable imperfections of workmanship. Tolerances may also be defined as the amount that duplicate parts are permitted to vary in size, in order to secure sufficient accuracy without unnecesary refinement. The terms \"tolerance\" and \"allowance\" are often used interchangeably, but according to common usage, \"allowance\" is a difference in dimensions prescribed in order to secure various classes of fits between different parts.

I copied that from the machinist's bible, Machinery's Handbook.

The point I am trying to make is that VW (and all other auto parts manufacturers) try to keep their tolerances tight, but because of small inaccuracies in tooling and the machinery used to run cutting tools, there are always small variations in parts. Engine builders try and work around these variations. With VW cases, these variations are usually irrelevant. VW crankcases are flexible, you proved that with your torque test. Usually things can be out a couple of thousandths, and when you torque it up, everything comes into alignment. You can put a crankshaft between centres, push on it with your hand, and deflect it by 0.005. Once you start running 200HP through your case, things are moving all over the place anyways. Because of huge horsepower, and shock loads, the engine case and crankshaft are deflecting 0.010 to 0.015 inches. Probably more than that with really serious horsepower. I'm constantly amazed on how much horsepower we can run through these things!

With all the measurements made on your case, you have shown that most of it was within tolerance. You have not measured the main bearing line to see if it is straight, or on centre. Or from the centre line to the cylinder deck.

You are measuring your camshaft and lifters in a three jaw chuck. These chucks are notoriously not accurate, for being on centre. When you buy a three jaw chuck, the manufacturer supplies a card telling you what the runout will be, check yours. You should measure your camshaft in the case, on vee blocks, on rollers, or best, between lathe centres, because that was the way it was made. The way you are demonstrating is a very inaccurate way of measuring a camshaft.

These comments were meant as constructive critism, and not meant in a mean spirited way. I appreciate what you are trying to accomplish, but I wonder about your methods.  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 17, 2005, 10:42:41 PM
-cameron i welcome all input and am glad to see you have taken the time to look at things closely .
-as well if anyone has specific knowledge relating to something i'm talking about ,please take the time to post the information for all to read and benifit from.

---With all the measurements made on your case, you have shown that most of it was within tolerance. You have not measured the main bearing line to see if it is straight, or on centre. Or from the centre line to the cylinder deck. ----
-i have measured the enginecase main bore to see if it's straight using the feeler gauge under the straight edge/felt pen on the main bearings and spin test methods as well as torqued it up and ran the straight edge along both parting seams ,these ways are very crude but are not bad for a quick check,also before rocky bored my #1 main i had him reinspect the main bore and i believe he dropped a machined bar down the bolted case to check for alignment.i also have one other check for this but will bring it up later as its a so so deal but effective.
i did not add these photo's as they turned out very poor as you can imagine trying to hold a camera in one hand and perform a measuring task is not easy .
i will try to add these photo's when i finnish the case clearance/cleaning/oil galley/bearing pre fit information.
-cameron if you have a good method of measuring/checking the main bore alignment please post it as it is one of the most difficult things to measure.and i'd love to know it.
- i know some tasks are out of logical order ,but my main goal was to deal with the bent crank/seizing #1 bearing deal first.yes i agree the main bore alignment should of being coverd with the main bore measuring photos .but it just didn't happen.but you are right it needs to be coverd .

-crank centreline to cylinder deck will come soon i have to finnish resizing my rod bearings first,this was originally done and yes my case was out .015\" on the #3/4 side.

-with the camshaft photo's showing lobe taper and resizing  etc ,i had already finnished resizing the 3 camshaft main journals and taking all the measurments.and originally was planning to take photo's as i went along but did not want to grab my camera with my dirty oily hands so i figured i would take them at the end.unfortunately i  removed my cam and cleaned it then realized i forgot to take the photo's .so i quickly clamped it in the chuck and took the needed photo's.so yes work was performed using a live centre to support the camshaft at the one end as well as i used a dial indicator to make sure it was running true before work was performed.
-as for the lifters i lightly clamped them in the chuck with the dial indicator riding on the outer edge of the lifter face i slowly rotated the lathe chuck by hand and watched the needle on the dial indicator .making sure all the  lifters were all centred first before any measurment were taken.
-i now realize that someone my look closely at the photos and attempt  modifications using the photo's as a referance,this could be potentially dangerous or give bad results so i will make updates when time permits and show proper photos of the cam in the lathe using the live centre for support and accuracy.i'm sure you can imaging that taking some of these photos is not easy and they will need to be set up and taken after the actual task is done,but i hope the end result of what to look for is demonstrated.
- as far as my methods, i believe  my measuring methods are in good practice but my photo's need to reflect a more accurate representation of the event.i'm glad cameron has pointed it out.
if anyone else see's something that needs clarification ,please bring it up as i would like to keep the information i'm providing as accurate as possible.
-there is a few reason's i wanted to start this topic and one of them is to make people realise that you are dealing with 99% aftermarket parts when building a performance motor and what oem parts there are are usally modified and care must be taken apon assembley.as most manufactures build parts to there specs and not vw's specs.but it can be done.
merry christmass everyone!!!!!!

-this is my favorite photo and really represents what christmass means to the little ones.just look at those eye's
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fsanta.jpg&hash=e71f6f1a368ca40aa000f0f1ba49a9cfab952150)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: steiner on December 18, 2005, 06:00:04 PM
You guys have way too much time on your hands! I thought I wrote too much on this website!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 18, 2005, 08:01:07 PM
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You guys have way too much time on your hands! I thought I wrote too much on this website!
ti's the season and we are just giving the gift of information for all man kind to enjoy
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: steiner on December 18, 2005, 08:48:55 PM
You should write a book or something. The Idiots Guide to High Powered Aircooled NOS, ETC.........You could make some serious money here! I want 10 percent if it's a go!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 16, 2006, 10:51:28 AM
well its been awhile and my short block is together ,so lets see if i can get us up to date this week.we left off with the cam now being able to spin freely in a fully torqued up case.so with all the crank/main bearing measuremants finnished, this points to a smooth rotating operation as well but lets make sure.
 what we are doing here is a final check for crankshaft  endplay /bearings and rotating assembley
 with the left case half exposed and all the bearing locator dowels in place,install THE BEARING YOU MEASURED ,NOT A NEW SET!!!.there is a reason.great example -since my #2 main split set was marked up from all my measuring i decided to use another #2 split set from the same manufacture and just replace them ,yes i did not measure them and i should of because with my crank in and the case torqued i noticed there was a initial effort needed to start the rotation then it was smooth . after i had measured my end play and took the case apart i noticed that there was a shinning surface on the outer edges of my new replacement split bearing set.so i bolted the case together and torqued it up . using my calibrated bore guage a noticed this set of bearings measured only .001-.0015\"radial oil clearance ,to tight.man good thing i double checked.so remember you spent all the time measuring with one bearing set ,so use them!!!!

if you have never installed a crank and bearing assembley it can be a little difficult to get the whole assemble to locate smoothly at times on the dowel pins
-first install your #2 split bearings and bolt the case together lightly,note how both bearing halves line up ,you will probably need to slide either of the bearings one way or another to get both ends to match,i use a long plastic rod through the #1 bore to tap either bearing to get both to line up.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_232lineup.jpg&hash=07ee2c75ca1533a9d8efc01da3459899cfdcc5a5)
  now that the #2 bearing are alighned take the case apart and install all the other bearings . lightly scribe the location of all the bearings in relation to the case half.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fmainbearingprefit.jpg&hash=88b2ad8874d61c839e80888f051721bb8b7142f2)

--i'm sorry my pictures of installing the #3 bearing and heating the gears and installing them are unviewable , i will try to do it again later on a old crank  and post some photo's soon------------------------------------------------------

take a look at how this split bearing is blocking half of the oil supplie hole in the case,will need to fix this.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_232coveringhole.jpg&hash=bc35ab75b6fb4bd787ddf2a0652abb3e49762e0a)
lets measure the location of the #1 oil groove in the bearing in relationship to the oil supply hole in the case.first take your calipers and measure from the oil hole to the back part of the bearing web.and lock the calipers.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_231oilcase.jpg&hash=9e19a4dda654e6a0e04d2ce3359f5a907974f9e0)
take the calipers and compare it on your bearing.no problem here its dead on the rear part of the oil groove in the bearing and the rear part of the oil supply hole are a dead match!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Foildistance1.jpg&hash=e5039421015bad0eebab677433d8f3a83f64ceca)
measure from the frt part of the oil supply hole to the frt edge of the bearing web and lock caliper.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F_231holefrt.jpg&hash=858da910d8e0c0850d4438904d4b3689ca5ae636)
when the measurement is compared to the groove on the bearing you can see 2 things,first half of the oil supply hole in the case is coverd as well if i lathed the bearing oil groove forward it would cut into the dowel pin hole.it was recomended to me to lathe the groove forward but,it was decided to only enlarge the bearing groove only at the point where it relates to the case oil supply hole.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbearingpin.jpg&hash=128e52c9d4feadd10c4e1003b8fca51c87cb595f)
marked out what i wanted to do and used a small round file on the #2 bearing ,remember its steel backed so its hard to file .
the #1 bearing was a bit more work but by trying a few things what worked best was a small bit in the dremel followed by a small sanding disc in the dremell to smooth it out.it turned out great even though the picture is a bit unclear and rough looking.
note the #3 bearing also recieved the same treatment as the #1 bearing.and the #4 was good to go
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbearingsmody.jpg&hash=3488c7ac71160c60e08bbcef15fc5cde8744a593)
well now that we know we got the correct radial clearance and the bearings are going to get full oil pressure lets try the assembley in the case.install the crank assembley with all the bearings and torque up the case.
since your are using a wedgemated crank/flywheel special care is needed to avoid damaging the wedgemated surface.use one dowel pin in the crank shaft end to aid in alighnment of the crank and flywheel also pay attension to the position of the flywheel and the crank ,there should be some referance marks to get them together in the correct position and oil up the threads on the glad nut .i use a flywheel lock tool which i'm sure AIRSPEED (http://www.airspeedparts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=29_33&osCsid=44dbf4b20282fca4d7ac2cba2358d8fe) carries them,and slowly tighten the gland nut up,i'm using a 2 foot long breaker bar on my 36mm socket. you could torque it to 50 lbs but trust me you will know when your flywheel is fully set against the end of the crank.leave the flywheel lock in place and set the magnetic base of your dial indicator onto the flywheel.set the needle agains the case and zero the dial.now all you have to do is grab the flywheel and gently move it back and fourth and note your endplay on your dial indicator
.well my calculate shim pack actually worked out!! i can't believe it!!i got damb near .007\" ,may tighten it up a hair.
 when you get a wedgemated crank from DEMELLO (http://www.demellocranks.com) it  comes with the endplay marked on it ,mine  said that the endplay was .040\" so if i took my shims of .0345\" we get .0055\".so there is a slight differance ,thats why you have to check.but not bad
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fendplay.jpg&hash=60f055f8fd3c20e96aea29eeb5f72a3213a1d86a)
i did install the cam and crank with the oil pump and torqued it all up again one last time and again both the cam and crank spin beautifully with zero binding and no intial effort to overcome before rotating as before with the other split bearing.
so next is hanging some rod's and last check/clean of the case.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: steiner on January 17, 2006, 09:00:06 PM
Jim, You are a God! I bow down to you!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 03, 2006, 12:41:06 AM
this is a shot showing one of the SCAT h beam connecting rods i'm using.these are high quality pieces and there price makes them even more attractive when building a performance motor.once again i have tried to do my best to take more accurate photos,but its not always possible.lets check the rods and bearings.
the lenght is 5.394 \" which is determined by measuring from the centre points of the wrist pin bore and the rod bearing bore,the bore guage is used to measure the radial oil clearance of the connecting rod bearing after it is fully torqued up and the telescoping bore guage is used to measure the wrist pin bore.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Frod.jpg&hash=185f63638df32b4700fdafde4cd5d0e96277290e)
the rod bearings i'm using are CLEVITE 77 ROD BEARINGS these are a high quality bearing that are made to take the shock loads in high performance/race engines.these bearings are standard vw rod journal size and were purchased locally at HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINES IN BURNABY.next time i will also use there main bearing set which i believe can be orderd with extra .001 \" oil clearance!!
you need to apply special supplied grease on 2 spots of the rod bolts,the reason is to reduce friction when torqing the rods ,that way a more acurate reading is given.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Flube.jpg&hash=2168b5076716909ba26c17a3251ead1233e89ac5)
you have probably heard of so much discusion on rod bolt stretch ,since i don't have a actual arp rod bolt stretch gauge ,and for that matter have never used one i will show you another way to check your bolts.first you need to know that once something is tight any time you go past that point you are applying torque to the fastner ,which in the end causes it to stretch.don't stretch it enough and it could loosen or if you over stretch it it may snap.if i remember for these bolts when torqued they should have around .005-.006 inches of stretch.in fact i tested all mine and found one that stretched .008 so i have replaced the set.
rod bolts are very important .they are the only link keeping your connecting rods together during high rpm .you can imagine at times that the upper portion of the rod will try to seperate from the lower section do to inertial and load.that is why these bolts are extremely strong and have such huge tensile strength,around 190,000-200,000 psi.so acurate measurements are needed for reliable operation.
 each rod was assembled with a main bearing set installed .with the bolts lubed upboth bolts were snugged hand tight and measured.a point was taken on the micrometer scale and noted.in this case it ended up lineing up at .003\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F003bolt.jpg&hash=e703fefc1a40794ce92dc1f63d4c1434db2a48f2)
with the rod now supported in a pair of soft jaws in my vise its ready to torque up.this is very important as it will protect the rod and allow a secure way to hold when torquing.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Frodvise.jpg&hash=90a83c9b3baa8fb7a100c5310433dc1870894e4a)
torqued to 42 ft/lbs
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Frodtorquedinvise.jpg&hash=77959c799504429098178ebb1fb409f823d83ea9)
once the rod is torqued again  it was mounted sideways in the vise and the bolts remeasured .in this case i have now .008\" .so .008\"-.003\"=.005\" stretch at 42 ft/lbs=ok!!
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F008bolt.jpg&hash=fe92c5732ae2a01883030203dc780e51a7db7b1d)
now i now this isn't the best way but hey if you use your head there are always more ways to do things,the reason there is a thick feeler guage on one end is just to give a level platform for the micrometer to sit against.notice the spot where i had clearanced the rods to clear my case.
since its all torqued i set my bore guage to my measurement from my spec sheet of the cranks rod journal diameter of 2.1647\"and measured the radial oil clearance of my rod bearings .good at just over .002\",again next time i would have this measurement first and have my crank ground to allow .003\" radial clearance
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Foilclearance.jpg&hash=33423ae0c52a0e22cbfbc88cbb1e868fc001c2cb)
when ALL THE RODS BOLTS ARE CHECKED AND ALL THE RADIAL CLEARANCES CHEKED ON ALL 4 all parts were disassembled.
  there is a few more steps to go before those rods get bolted onto the crank,here we go.remember all parts will stay in the exact spot and will should never get mixed up during this process.
rod caps measured at 0.8925\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcap.jpg&hash=ffc01326938be43fa660d9b1700766fb59731988)
after the measurement of the rod cap is taken i zero the caliper and transfer it between the cranks rod journal width,when the caliper is expanded it will give you a rough measurement for rod side play .in this case 0.016\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcrkwidth.jpg&hash=a533c16b3787ed11dcaa5b368ee343d77ac629f4)
measure rod bearings 0.6890\"
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbrnwdth.jpg&hash=69898da51295013cbd3cff01d808fdd26caee6d6)
caliper measurment of rod bearing width is compared to ground surface on crank.note its pretty much the same so the bearings will need to be modified and rechecked.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fwidthcrank.jpg&hash=db97101712447ead8a7a0a159a67278fd113fe44)
you can see in this photo a better shot of the ground bearing surface width as well as the radius from the ground surface to the cranks webs.it is this radius that gives the crank its strenght against bending but is also causes a point for bearing contact.
one more time,a better photo showing radius/machined surface for bearing and machine width for rod side clearance.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fradius.jpg&hash=3648b8dec0f99fe20888a080361c16b43007e6c0)
since i know i have radial clearance and rod side clearance its time to closer check the bearings for contact with the crank radius.i apply felt pen to the top of each bearing sides,when the felt drys a lite film of oil is applyed to the bearins and the rod is assembled on the crank and torqued up to specs.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Ffelttop.jpg&hash=4f6849cc4aae5304ff4084ec57aaa5700ccfdaef)                                                                                                                     with the rod pushed against one side of the crank then the other side and rotated a bit back and fourth .once disasembled it can be inspected for contact.in this case you can see that the outer edge of the bearings do infact touch the crank radius.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbearingcontact.jpg&hash=f616f1926081e04dd56e4e8d53a60fc082ab2223)
a differant way to check is also to apply a small piece of plastiguage on the crank covering into the radius and with the large part of the conecting rod with one bearing shell installed in it place it into the d=crank fullagainst one side and push down squarly into the crank.notice the bearing edge contact point is at the very edge of the groung bearing surface.again just another way to double check for rod bearing contact.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fplasty1.jpg&hash=80492c0265e6378f0e43d468d68ac0d63da0a7fa)
now this time felt pen is aplyed to the sides of the bearings ,this will act as a visual guide.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Ffeltside.jpg&hash=44c12fb3a5315b9c93c9e6b6c218c4f2cfe385bc)
this is how i modifie my bearings using a olfa knife.you can see i hold it at about a 45 deg angle and push the knife away from me.you need to practice on a old bearing to get this technic down first.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F45degcut.jpg&hash=479498c933a3fbb01a86ef343bfde8851e67891e)
now you can see why the felt is needed it really helps keep things true.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbearinghalf.jpg&hash=7ce5a989b2ca1629d95c1b26e0688136168922f6)
both edges done.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fbothedges.jpg&hash=fa65c35298c90b15ab7418207d77778519dd9953)
holding the 600 grit emery paper at a 45 deg angle the cut edges are lightly sanded to make sure there is no sharp edges,then using brake clean the bearing is fully cleaned.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fsandedge.jpg&hash=b4dd3bf558813937df95b77fa05df8b363eaf760)
with the cleaned bearing back in the conecting rod cap the caliper is set to the bearing widt of 0.8925\" minus .015\" for side clearance and the bearing is checked to make sure it is narrowed enough on both sides.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fcheckbearing.jpg&hash=6a71a8b66e11d20b1f29998adacdca8422666ead)
now using the same plastiguage meathod as befor you can see the added clearance.now only 7 more bearing shells to go
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fplasty2.jpg&hash=fb54c78a34c4bbaf0931f2fa242dfacb355c73c7)
now before the rods bolt up i always do one last trial fit and double make sure the bearing ends alighn,remember they can be moved to line up and its very important to check,also note the bearing tangs should locate down towards the cam.this is done for the reason of allowing more oil spill off to go directly back onto the cam and to the oil pan instaed of onto the case roof.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Ftangs.jpg&hash=975d61569774234014efc19f66dd2023985bba79)
ahh my fingers!!!!nope just kiding,since everthing is good now and everthing is tripple checked a good dose of assembley lube is used on the bearing surfaces and the rod sides.now this rod is going to used for checking TDC/DECK HEIGHT /AND CASE CENTRELINE.all other rods were installed and checked for side clearnce and rapped up waiting for finall assembley.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Frodlube.jpg&hash=7ac30a509ce30ee0e233af408ba0f0a2ef363d3d)
as noted all rods had there side clearance checked this is done by having the rod fully torqued up on the crank and pushed to one side.i like to use 2 feeler guages in order to make sure it is contacting evenly.
this case this rode has 0.016\" side clearance.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2F2feelerguages.jpg&hash=ceb00ef99ea4ceb87fb94a90d07685a04186e627)
i set this phot up so you can actualy see the rod side clearance as well as the way the #3 bearing sits[modified later for oil groove on the crank,very difficult]
the order in which it goes is #bearing/cam gear/solid spacer/brass dist gear/snap ring.
will try to get a picture of the #3bearing and end gear assembley from another motor when i get a chance as well as all lubes used.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Ffeelergears.jpg&hash=0f8c76888be5cdbab2651f480df9fa5c9599277f)
good night
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: egspot on February 03, 2006, 05:45:42 AM

This is a lesson and example  to some of us who would like to venture into that process. It is a keeper.

thanks,

Emilio
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 07, 2006, 11:25:24 PM
thanks,finnally got around to finnishing things off on the previous post.
more to come.
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Muffler Mike on January 12, 2007, 11:36:12 AM
Jim
that is some awesome detail on build technique, etc.  :rockon:
If you havent already, you should whip up a web page with that info.
I put a lot of stuff on my page, but nothing with that much detail.
Keep up the great work
MM
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on January 12, 2007, 12:31:22 PM
Quote
Jim
that is some awesome detail on build technique, etc.  :rockon:
If you havent already, you should whip up a web page with that info.
I put a lot of stuff on my page, but nothing with that much detail.
Keep up the great work
MM
The Americans have noticed you.... Well done Jimmy
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: James Buchan on January 12, 2007, 07:29:14 PM
Who's this Muffler guy anyways?????  :lol:  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 12, 2007, 09:54:22 PM
Quote
Jim
that is some awesome detail on build technique, etc.  :rockon:
If you havent already, you should whip up a web page with that info.
I put a lot of stuff on my page, but nothing with that much detail.
Keep up the great work
MM
thanks mike and all others for the positive input !!!!!!!!!!
hmmm a web site :D  ,yes it is almost done !!!!!!!!that is a very good idea .will either upload it on there as well or link from it to here.

i'm pleased to see that so many find the information helpfull and i hope it answers many questions you may of had or never understood, and i tried to make it easy to follow along no matter what engine building level you are at.and i must admit it's been awhile since i had looked at this post and it was great re reading it again.

  the reason for the thread stopping was due to a sudden loss of all extra time i had ,2 young kids and one a newborn ,  starting a side venture , work, and the testing of new nitrous products filled all the time very quickly.
i have close to 150 images with about 20% of them edited.they pick up where i left off and end up with the instillation and tuning a special  nitrous system .
i must admit after bruce gave me the heads up today i did in fact pull out the disc with all the new images and text and have started putting some order to them,as well i'm sure you can all relate to the amount of time it takes to edit and add text to the photo's as well .so i promise i will make a effort in 2007 to pick up this thread again.with even more info and images

the motor is in fact still together and runs great on and off the bottle and there is allot more in it .it has proven to be able to take a constant pounding on and off the track and with way over 50, 100 plus mph nitrous assisted passes and countless icecream runs with my oldest daughter it has proven to be a excellent  street / strip combination  and constant work horse.
 
best time in almost full street trim (no frt passanger or rear seat ),weight with driver 1850 lbs ,evening track conditions ( slick) ,fan belt and all lights on has been 11.375 sec @ 119.37 mph.
watch for 3  even quicker dialed in performance nitrous cars this year.
  tip of 2006
if you don't want to break anything , don't race.
but if you want to learn something , RACE!!!!
turn up the volume and lets go 120 mph
http://dialedinperformance.com/images/nitrous_engine/test1.wmv (http://dialedinperformance.com/images/nitrous_engine/test1.wmv)
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: egspot on January 12, 2007, 11:22:59 PM
Quote

if you don't want to break anything , don't race.
but if you want to learn something , RACE!!!!
turn up the volume and lets go 120 mph
http://members.shaw.ca/choptop3/jimscar3/test1.wmv (http://members.shaw.ca/choptop3/jimscar3/test1.wmv)
Thanks, that is a very expensive lesson and I sure appreciate it.

If I ever hit the jackpot a lot of racing will take place.
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on January 13, 2007, 12:18:39 AM
Quote
turn up the volume and lets go 120 mph
http://members.shaw.ca/choptop3/jimscar3/test1.wmv (http://members.shaw.ca/choptop3/jimscar3/test1.wmv)
ahhhhh....good times at mission. B)  
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: John W. Kelly on January 21, 2007, 08:19:59 AM
Great info Jim. Thanks for taking the time to write this article!
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: erikaa on November 21, 2007, 03:14:12 PM
Help - I was going to use this tread now that i am starting on my first stroker engine - but all the pictures are gone!  
Is it only in my end - or has something happened here?

Thanks!
 
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: egspot on November 21, 2007, 03:56:00 PM
Quote
Help - I was going to use this tread now that i am starting on my first stroker engine - but all the pictures are gone!  
Is it only in my end - or has something happened here?

Thanks!


No it is not you.

pm the owners of those pictures and they probably will be glad to e-mail the to you.

After a while everyone needs more space for other pictures.
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 21, 2007, 10:14:40 PM
wow almost 18000 !!!! thats got to be a airspeed record
i did not realise that so many had followed along ,let alone used it as a builders reference.

quite awhile back i switched out from shaw and over to telus and of course my shaw webspace was terminated ,but shaw had made a mistake and kept my links working for a few extra months.
before i stopped services with shaw i did copy all the pictures and text ,will either work on uploading pictures if i have telus webspace with my account or upload to my site.

 blueprinting and assembling highperformance vw motors .
maybe time for a paperback
Title: Jim Martin
Post by: Bullyboy on November 22, 2007, 02:22:30 PM
There are a pile of people that I have referred to this thread.
I have my own copy saved to my computer and a couple printed copies that I make notes on when I am working.
perhaps we could convince you to finish the article all the way to a long block  :D  
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 11, 2008, 12:46:20 AM
you asked for it so its back up once again .

in my very first posts i had mentioned this motor was being build as a test motor ,which i would use as a background for future engine builds .i have to admit it has lasted way longer that i ever expected , at present its still running and doing double duty at the track and the street .for me this was the biggest thing ,making a true street stip motor and i think i have done just that .a car thats comfortable turning low et's at the track and reliable on icecream runs.. since the thread stopped there has been many engine upgrades  ,  cam changes , piston changes, multiple ring packs  , 2 sets of heads , crankcase breather work , many custom nitrous delivery methods all these changes took place  while being sprayed with a absolute sick amount of nitrous and race fuel ,and still  enjoyed on the streets with familywhen the racing was done.
so what's next , the crank still has endplay  ,so its coming out this weekend .not for repair but for inspection ,there are many things i want to look at and see how they are holding up  , i.e. clutch and rod bearings  etc etc and of course .
yes, i will add a few more tricks.
this year at the track my time was limited and with the change  to 28mm bars and QA1 dual adjustable shocks at the rear, plus many motor and nitrous changes i never got to my goal as i was always fighting one change against the other ,of course right near the end of the season i did get the suspension to work and get most of the tuning issues with the upgraded motor figured out.
from a street start N/A it was running 12.7's and with a 50 shot 11.7's not to bad for a 50 shot !!!! i was very happy with this result as it showed the way i was applying the nitrous ,state of tune and engine combination was proving to be a good balance . plus i did it shifting bellow 7000 rpm and using all 5 gears !! , i even pulled a 140 shot run and all i can say is my wheels were still bouncing in 3rd gear .you know what they say ."THERE'S NO RIDE LIKE OXIDE".

over the holidays i will start going through the 250 plus pictures and see if i can pick up where i left off and hopefully cover the good and bad changes as well get up to date with the latest engine combo.

merry Christmas check back soon and enjoy a little sound track silas put together for me .
http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h162/SilasBancroft/the%20wok/?action=view&current=b8d323c1.pbr (http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h162/SilasBancroft/the%20wok/?action=view&current=b8d323c1.pbr)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 28, 2008, 12:49:34 AM
  after reviewing allot of photos i realized there are many images i'm missing , i will do my best to substitute when possible or update later. will use the original images previously taken up to the point of short block assembly ,then will try to use all new images based on the new top end.

lets get a oil pump fit to the block .
the pump i'm using is a aluminum body SCHADECK (http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=ECO0002) 30mm oil pump with a SCAT BILLET   (http://www.scatvw.com/)oil pump cover .just in case you did not now the 30mm relates to the length of the gears . for years i have used MELLING oil pumps which are a cast iron body ,but this time i wanted to go a different route and cut down on oil leaks at the pump. and after measuring the SCHADECK pump for fit ( see pages 11,12 ) its obvious the pump is machined to very high standard and  appears to be a quality product .also there is the argument that a aluminum pump expands and contracts at a closer rate to the case than a iron pump .so a better seal between the pump and case is maintained resulting in less oil leaks and better oil pickup . the pump is being modified to work with a external oil filter .for this reason the outlet of the pump and case will be tapped and plugged .this is where the SCAT BILLET oil pump cover comes in .it now allows the oil to be routed out of the pump and to a remote oil filter ,then after the filter the oils is rerouted back to the engine .

since earlier on the body of the pump was measured and fit to the block it's time to do the final check of the oil pump .
first a close inspection of the new oil pump cover shows there is some flashing left over from the cnc machining .this is easily cleaned up using a file and your sanding drum .
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fflashing.jpg&hash=7afbb33583a7103d611c9903dbb13071573e8b5b)
once the oil pump cover is cleaned up its placed on top of the pump assembly .using a feeler gauge (need image) between the pump cover and oil pump gears the clearance can be checked .i would hope for between 0.002"-0.003" .this pump was dead on a 0.002".just for the record the gasket between the cover and pump body will add another 0.004".
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fclearance.jpg&hash=7c73e1fc91c117b8f1904e7bc7b1d1f684dede38)
time to check and see if the pumps inlet and the case inlet match ,this is done by fitting the oil pump body to the case half that has the oil pick-up tube mounted in it ,then using a thin sharp pick through the pumps inlet scribe the pumps inlet shape into the engine case.once you remove the pump you can see if the two in fact match.if not using your DREMEL and a cutting bit carve out close to the scribed line and with a small sanding drum blend in and smooth the newly shaped opening.(need new image )
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fscribed.jpg&hash=7e400c544349233a28faa8a3882c510442bd3649)

next on the list is to have the cam installed with the gear mounted with the washers and bolts you will be using.you can see that the 3 cam bolts just scrape my pump ,so we will need to file the back of the pump to give the clearance needed.i would like at least a 0.040" feeler gauge between the cam bolts and the pump .
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fpump_prefit.jpg&hash=b974f5b96177e0d24a0b4966ece29fb17a48a2c3)

also this is a good time to note and test your stud length for bolting the pump to the case .make sure you make studs that will allow for the increased length of the pump + cover+ gasket +nut and washer .in this case my new pump mounting studs needed to be 45mm in length over the stock 36mm.
i make all my own studs up using high quality threaded rod purchased at ( add source)
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fstuds.jpg&hash=573488358d2efe615e98391befe173c81c985dc2)

this shows the 4 NPT taps required to modify the vw case ,we will use all these later on .but for now grab the 3/8 NPT tap .NPT stands for national pipe thread .this is a tapered thread that actual seals due to the threads of both the male and female parts jamming together.NOTE :when tapping any NPT hole in steel or aluminum a tapping fluid (not oil ) is needed or the threads while being cut with the tap may become damaged ,also when test fitting the fitting or plug into a NPT tapped hole use oil or grease as the fitting may Gaul and jam in the newly tapped hole .this has happened to me more than once .also when tapping a NPT thread stop and test fit the plug or fitting often and when you get damb close tap 1/4 turn deeper at a time until you get the perfect fit .depending on the location and purpose either a special Teflon pipe sealant or loctite will be used to insure no leaks at the joint.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Ftaps.jpg&hash=7598b2dfa616e4eaf43edc99386d20f9304f560d)
the outlet in the SCHADECK pump is the correct size and does not require drilling before being tapped.just take note of the stud in the picture
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Ftappump.jpg&hash=2928ca35257f8e2f03eb3713d95e80a154c1b516)

once the outlet is tapped using the tapping fluid ,and the 3/8 NPT plug has been test fitted it can be installed .i used some red loctite on the threads of the plug .this will make sure there is no leaks as well as make this plug remain perminent.you can see why we need to modifiy this stud before we file material off the pump to gain the cam bolt clearance .
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fplugged.jpg&hash=707060dca754926709cb93341e4dabdaad14f58a)

its a very simple process .just as in the picture, use a 8mm bolt and soft jaws on one side to protect the pump face. align the 8mm bolt against the centre of the stud .and with very little effort press the stud 1/8" deeper into the pump body,now the material needed to clear the cam bolts can be easily removed .i used a big file and cleaned it up with my sanding drum.
 (https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fnitrous_engine%2Fpress_stud.jpg&hash=90bea90de58337ed2c1c12df241cb1f7d81d7cf5)

now the pump is ready for service, have recleaned all the pumps parts ,bagged them and set them aside until its time for the short block assembley.





Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 17, 2009, 06:31:57 AM
have received alot of e-mails lately ,which means new motors are coming together .
here you all go
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 05, 2010, 06:17:30 PM
i cant believe the amount of e-mail i still get for the engine build up thread . thanks .
glad so many are still using it .and wanting the conclusion

unfortunately when i switched from Shaw to TELUS i lost many of the photos that was needed to finish the build ,i do have at least 60% but it would leave it choppy and with to much info missing .and i would not want to leave items out .have some plans in the near future to finish it off but need to replace my tranny first .

i will be replacing my type 1 box with a 002 bus box as well as do the swing to irs conversion at the same time .while doing the research for this i have to admit gathering good info is slow and i will list everything i have learned .
so look for that coming soon
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 02, 2010, 07:55:16 PM
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2Fbusbox_flag.jpg&hash=0e0a15d67b4ce7ed14e78f5b898c9ce7cd2de3da)

 i can see light at the end of the long house Reno tunnel and that means i can finally start working on my car again very soon , good thing i have all winter .
after the great Canadian drags and not being able to run sure made me realize how much i miss drag racing my car .
yes again to everyone that e-mails me i will one day finish the engine thread , when that motor is taken apart for upgrades or maintenance .
last year was the bitter end for yet another 3.88 ring and pinion and when it let go in 4th it was a bit harry to say the least .
so i had 2 choices , back down on the power or upgrade and put the power to the ground .
there was no way i was going to back down on power so it was decided to do a major upgrade to the back of the car .
plan is to replace the type 1 berg 5 with a hybrid bus box ,perform upgrades to the brakes , suspension  , electronics , rear control arms , clutch management and a list of tricks I've been wanting to do .
have collected 90% of the components required and with the trans arriving tomorrow all the parts are almost here .
i have been slowly sneaking in a few minutes here and there and actually have the first test control arm finished and am very happy with the results .
like i said earlier in another post , half the battle is gathering information and i will pass on everything i have learned .
so stay tuned and lets install a hybrid bus box and perform a swing to irs conversion both with a slight twist .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on September 02, 2010, 10:48:17 PM
right on jim!! it's going to be a good winter!!  ;) :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 11, 2011, 08:00:20 PM
where to start ?  its been a while
  Figured i would toss up a few pictures to give you a quick idea how its coming along .
the first 3 images show the finnished suspension at full extension (something new ,more info to follow), normal ride height and full squat .

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0623.jpg&hash=f3732b60c44b74d5ca30ceb99e0417cb2eaec413)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0626.jpg&hash=41836d98ff951f22041b3860122a55f6c612daa1)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0627.jpg&hash=aaef7fbd6293b487e34d2b8b0c86f9d08d4434e8)

and the other 2 images show kind of what's going on behind the wheel.

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0637.jpg&hash=6a9d6dc4cabe3f345680faad3a0bb443d1f1fa93)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0629.jpg&hash=7312bf990b1e2330549c57c50b5d8e14399e156f)

 I cannot even begin to list what's been modified to get to this point but i will try my best as we get moving along .
what i have done is made duplicates of all the parts used on the passenger side for the drivers side . so with all the hard work behind me i will start the drivers side from step 1 and post the progress.
i would like to thank local Bruce Tweddle for all information when i was starting and will post that info up later .
as well as all others on the Ultimate Aircooled Forum (http://ultimateaircooled.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php/) where i started the original build post and received excellent support from there core of racers that frequent there .especially Mike lawless for his time on the phone and e-mail support .

Why even go IRS ?? when you can put the stronger type 2 bus box in a type 1 beetle chassis and keep your swing axles using the Dave folts axle conversion and save allot of time and headache.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2Fdave+folts+axle.jpg&hash=93f2fe0446279def1770d91753a51b687d3d517b)
for me there was 2 main reasons , safety and engine bay clearance.
  if using the swing axle conversion ,both axles need to stay the same length , that's no problem as Gene Berg makes modified mounts that allow for direct instillation of the type 2 bus box into a type 1 chassis .what you may not know is that a type 1 gearbox is very unique , it is completely symmetrical , meaning the input shaft and shifter shaft are in a straight line .and the width ,axle flange to axle flange is equal distance to the centerline created between the input and shifter shaft ,just imagine a perfect cross.
  Where as the type 2 IRS bus box is asymmetrical .and the only reason a bus runs equal length axles is because the bus box is installed offset to one side .
SO , If you center the type 2 bus box in a bug the engine will fit in the engine bay, but you have to use different length axles side to side.
If you offset the the type 2 bus box using the Berg mounts you can use equal length axles, but the engine will be offset in the engine bay and may not fit .
my current motor is very wide ,and with future larger motors planned i cannot move the engine over the additional 3/8" to the passenger side.
 Also the Folts bus axle conversion is not recommended for street use as the inner cv joint is replaced with a domestic "U" joint and if it was to fail on the highway it could become a issue as there is nothing left to support the axle if the U joint failed  , at the track its not such a worry as the most likely place for failure would be at launch were it would be less of a concern .
  With safety and clearance being the deciding factor the decision was made to centre the type 2 bus box and run different length IRS axles .
now i started my list of what i wanted to accomplish while doing all this work .
-use my tig welder, anything that is removed is reinstalled but made lighter , disc brakes ,flatter tire contact , lower stance , more suspension travel in both directions .
     It is possible and so far i have managed to accomplish it all .

 take a look at this and you can see why i wanted a flatter tire ,not only is that hard on the axles its a obvious traction loss and was wearing the inside of the slicks
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fpics%2Flaunch_1.jpg&hash=67df9ded9e5a30282710d31c5fd7bcd305257c59)
 the reason for the lower stance is obvious , before to get a needed flat tire i would have to raise the vehicle with my adjustable spring plates .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fpics%2Frear_1.jpg&hash=51330c544c9ae3b9e299916a2bdd8a909c2b2947)
 the new 3" and change lower ride height with tucked in flat wheel at zero camber appears to be headed in the correct direction .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0625.jpg&hash=a24d624ed48ab32cffb79addf68b42f7fa65fced)

 i have gone through easily 8 plus test arms, uncountable test fits and adjustments ,made countless jigs and tools and compiled allot of information and much of it learn as you go and will post it up as it fits in .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on March 11, 2011, 10:16:29 PM
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0637.JPG&hash=e48f8c82c300976ff21c21a1e5cedf58f7ab55b4)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0629.JPG&hash=d4b5e08bfc5ba78e03cd0382515f9363fc4ae253)

very nice setup!! :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Billyisgr8 on March 11, 2011, 10:20:48 PM
That represents alot of work Jim..Good job.  I guess now you have to keep the sump off the pavement on launch now too.

It's nice to see you getting some time to work on it again.

Look forward to seeing you get it down the track this year.

Kevin
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on March 12, 2011, 08:34:15 AM
That represents alot of work Jim..Good job.  I guess now you have to keep the sump off the pavement on launch now too.

It's nice to see you getting some time to work on it again.

Look forward to seeing you get it down the track this year.

Kevin

DRy Sump!


Looks wicked!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: neil68 on March 18, 2011, 03:07:02 PM
Jim,

Are those centerlines?  How much do they weigh?

I've been keeping an eye out for some lighter wheels for my '68, as I've been running old steel Sprintstars, but would like to reduce weight. Any other wheels that I should consider?  I have M&H 215-65's on 5.5" wheels, so I'd like to find something similar in size.

Thanks,
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Bruce on March 18, 2011, 09:04:30 PM
Neil,
Centerline wheels are designed for 3-4000+ lb cars, so they are super strong.  That's why the off road guys like them.  The problem is, they are hefty wheels.  They weigh in around what a stock steel wheel weighs. 
A stock steel wheel is about 15 lbs.  Your sprints are more.

Some common VW wheel weights:

Fuchs 6": 13 lbs
Fuchs 4": 10 lbs
Mahle Mg 5½": 10 lbs
Real BRM Mg 5": 7-7.5 lbs
ERCO pie plates: 5-5.5 lbs

Don't assume every cast aluminum wheel is lighter than stock steels.  Once I weighed a fake Fuchs, 18 lbs!

If you switch to ERCOs, you'll remove about 50 lbs from your car.  Since it is rotating mass, it's effect on your ETs is much more.  My estimate is that you would see the same as if you added 10-15hp.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: neil68 on March 18, 2011, 11:19:00 PM
Thanks for the numbers, Bruce.

What about these ERCO's:  http://www.vwparts.net/ER41901756.html


Says 25 lb. shipping weight, but that would be fully boxed...
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Bruce on March 19, 2011, 11:48:29 AM
Those are the heavier street wheels, made from .190" thick Al.  The race weight wheels are .125", so they'll be 2/3 the weight. Geoff runs the lighter wheels on the street. They are fine if you're not boy-ricer-racing.
4 lug wheels are a bit heavier than wide 5.  On top of that, you can cut holes in the face between the lugs like Josh did to his.
25 lbs is the shipping weight for a pair of 6" wheels.  Do you need a 6?  I don't know about your tires, but with a 'stone 6" slick, the ideal wheel is 5".
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: neil68 on March 19, 2011, 02:37:19 PM
Thanks, Bruce.

I might switch to wide-5 drums or discs, since I'm currently running with SAW short axles.  I'm looking to bump up the HP by 40-50 this spring, so I might be upgrading the brakes.  If I go wide-5, then what are some good choices for a light race wheel on the back?
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Bruce on March 20, 2011, 01:30:11 AM
The ERCO .125 race version is the lightest wheel in existance.

Beware, even though the wide 5 wheels are lighter than the 4 bolt wheels, wide 5 disc brakes are HEAVY by comparison.  The worst out there is the AC Industries front discs.  Their rotor is all one piece.  My estimate is that their rotors weigh more than 10 lbs each. 
The CB wide 5 kit is much better, but it's cast aluminum hub is pretty thick for what it does.  I'll say that the CB wide 5 rotor is heavier than a stock KG rotor.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on March 20, 2011, 08:21:14 AM
I now run the CSP wide 5 discs and although they have alum hub and steel rotor they feel heavier than the orig KG disc's
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 20, 2011, 02:57:41 PM
using 4 bolt rims limits you alot on performance brake components and the only reason i dont swap out those rims is on the second day i owned that car i bought those rims and they have been on it ever since .that was just over 30 years ago .oh god
took the scale out for you for some real #'s, also all tires have no tubes
frt 3.5/15" with 145 kebler radials = 26 lbs
rear 5.5"/15 with 205 bf goodrich radial ta's = 35.5 lbs
rear 5.5"/15 with m @h  P215/65-15    street strip dot  = 30 lbs
rear neal discs complete =14.0 lbs
stock drum setup complete = 21.5 lbs
roto hubs complete = 23.5 lbs that was the version without handbrake

swapping out the frt tires to a m and h dot would save a few pounds as well but i need a radial up frt for when i put on the street tires
- just swapping out the rear brakes saves 13 plus pounds
have the second arm together and will get those pictures up soon , missing a few but the idea will get across
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 20, 2011, 07:36:00 PM
damb Bruce he always gets me thinking , thinking back some time ago before i mounted the dot s and i remember those rims felt quite lite .
i found some notes from awhile back which showed the M@H dots i run to be 19 lbs so 31-19 = 12lbs and thats with a good thick beed of silicon on the inside to seal the rim , not bad .i'm thinking the frts are around the same 12 lb mark as well
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 17, 2011, 12:35:03 AM
the left control arm is finnished but i dont want to jump ahead to far .i'm going to give the quick version minus all the fab and major modifications and fill those in later .
at this point i was going to make my own rear control arms as the stock arms would not take the modifications i needed .
so i started by making a JIG based on a stock rear control arm .pretty simple, 2 sections of heavy wall rectangular tube welded at a 90 deg .lower support tubing welded on as legs to keep it stable and a removable fence to square the lower bearing support up .
this shows the right rear stock trailing arm sitting in place on the JIG to give you a idea .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0184.jpg&hash=f581815bec5e627696db2fc865bdcc4ba52d7db5)
in the above photo the JIG has been modified multiple times and is now a universal left or right JIG with the ability to allow for change in position of the upper pivot, raising or lowering the bearing housing point as well as allowing to narrow as much as needed.
when the JIG was first made i based it on a complete stock arm as i was going to use the weld in stock IRS pivots .
i was happy with the JIG until i decided to bolt in the left control arm ,that's when i found out that stock arms are made with the spring plate and the bearing support not parallel but designed with a few degrees of negative camber .this just killed the universal JIG idea and with the decision to now make my own inner pivot based on a heim joint the JIG was modified to allow for the above listed 3 changes .
yes i love green tape but it sure allows you to make some good pen marks .
this is it the last version of the jig .
the inner pivot point moves up and down and is centered in relation to the centre bolt of the spring plate and you can see the pen line that is the reference for the bottom and top sections of the jig .the spring plate mount is also welded at 90 deg to the rear support of the JIG .also a large hole was cut after to allow for the stub axle to hang through a little later on .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0182.jpg&hash=9feb2689f6e539baec982e32c1515e116ec4dab3)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2Fjig1.jpg&hash=5a006f7b396c630346177020f0640fb104b851e1)

now you can see how it works .
stock arm and first version of test arm
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0185.jpg&hash=8ae869f44cfb4b188cd7a8954dff6637e1af415c)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0186.jpg&hash=2cf184cc17f3b4fb2761cdff68baa3eb3c331cf8)

you can see how the fence allows the bearing housing to be squared up for either left or right sides .it is spaced with a 1/4" plate off the plate to the mounting edge of the bearing housing and to make a narrower rear control arm i needed to add spacers below the bearing housing .very simple .

this is a picture of the test control arm during some point.you can see its been hacked a few times ,the heim joint is now in and how i allowed for in and out adjustment of the rear wheel while the arm was mounted in the car . it was needed as fender and spring plate clearance was very tight and i could slide it in and out as needed.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0188.jpg&hash=71479a3199ac7097f49a5fc85df698e8b9d26a89)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 25, 2011, 11:17:00 PM
next step was to locate a set of IRS spring plates , Bruce T was nice enough to lend me one and from that a template was made and transferred to my adjustable swing axle spring plates . and with a bit of trimming and drilling had a set of homemade IRS spring plates .if anyone is drilling spring plates use a speed of around 650 rpm and correct cutting fluid and it is no problem .
test arm fitted to the modified spring plate .what you cannot see is the temporary adjustable inner pivot tacked to the torsion tube .this allowed me to move the pivot position up or down which in turn allowed for camber adjustments  based on the tire position .at this point i had set my new ride height and set the camber of the wheel to 0 deg as a starting point . its not pretty but its a start .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0192.jpg&hash=c5f08cda9678e581ac96b375c91b2235099d84d5)
with the bearing housing slid into place and using a piece of angle iron bolted squarely to the spring plate the test control arm was set 90 deg to the torsion tube .
best to start square by measuring from the points 'a' and 'b' to the outer edge of the angle iron .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0273.jpg&hash=a11385107ecc700e7623bee20e17ea5d6f678eb3)
tire on and for the first time was able to see if this was really going to work , i had no idea if i was on the correct path .
the new ride height which is allot lower than before , i like it when the line around the outer edge of the tire just lines up with the lower edge of the fender
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0277.jpg&hash=6632051b359e301290ba368c0bd9c5459d8dd67c)
jacked it up to the end of travel , not bad
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0275.jpg&hash=8a42e1ad0066911a34113779687bc1520144fa5e)
and at full compression the camber was great at -1.20 DEG
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0276.jpg&hash=6852635b0532b2b8267e4cd2db3ad061049a48d5)
as anyone would be i was pretty stoked as it looked great but now it was time to start checking for clearance .
anyone putting a wider rear tire under a vw rear fender knows fender clearance and in my case adjustable spring plate clearance is always a concern .
i would need to address these before continuing .with a swing axle setup .fender clearance is not to bad because as the wheel compresses it also tilts in allot which pulls the tire away from the fender but gives huge negative camber . because my wheel is staying fairly flat i dont have that natural pull away to give needed clearance .
brain storm , called john at M and H and asked the questions based on 130 mph
 what he says is he would like to see 1" clearance at all points but he knows its not always possible .
i have 2 sets of M and H tires one is the DOT 215/65/15 and the other is the straight 26/6/15 slick .
what he says is the side wall is stiffer in the DOT and will limit growth and sidewall flex when turning or getting squirrely a bit more than the straight slick.
from his experience he sees about a 1/2" growth total height so that would be 1/4 per side if you think in that terms .also because of this the sidewall gets narrower with speed this does add sidewall clearance .he has seen cars with side clearance with 1/4 " rub or not rub so it depends on the vehicle .
his recommendation is to put the DOT tires on and make some none balls out runs and check for issues , then increase speed and check for clearance issues ,then proceed with the slicks . good advice .so he figures i'm safe but i need to check and proceed with caution .
 i have made my own fender bead roller which worked fantastic as well as modified the spring plates which will be brought up later , these 2 mods allows for a pinky finger of clearance at both the fender and springplate.
so with the fender and spring plate clearance issue dealt with it was now time to start playing with how far i could push the wheel up .
wrapped a 3/4" OD water hose onto the slick and started spinning it until it just rubbed ,you can see the contact point on the green tape.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0274.jpg&hash=b8d4881e163effcb3bd4e8567e33718231e53d76)
it actually rubs on the inner wheel well on the body .wanting to not have to limit the compression height i would need to increase that tire to inner wheel well clearance .
easy solution is to pull the tire back to the rear .started working on making the test arm longer and it was abandon in favor of raising the complete bearing housing 3/4" up from its current centered position ,poor test arm hacked up again .this allowed the tire to rise up but because the spring plate does not need to move as far up anymore it also did not pull the wheel as far foreword .problem solved .
again same photo but notice the bearing housing is centered with the middle bolt on the spring plate and in the second photo the bearing housing is well above that middle bolt
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0192.jpg&hash=c5f08cda9678e581ac96b375c91b2235099d84d5)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0273.jpg&hash=a11385107ecc700e7623bee20e17ea5d6f678eb3)
there were a few more modifications required to the inner structure and a few not done yet that still need doing  .but trying to get this thread caught up quick and up to date .
note : the inner pivot point is not that big of a mystery , but actually is a great spot to allow you to change or adjust your camber settings .anyone welding in there stock IRS pockets could use this point to adjust and make camber changes before welding them in .
  Well time to start building my own control arms now that all the calculating and testing is done .my control arms will end up being. raised,narrowed ,lighter,stronger ,simpler,and allow for easy camber, toe  and depth changes .tall order but should all be doable .
time to gather material .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Bruce on April 26, 2011, 12:14:16 PM
anyone putting a wider rear tire under a vw rear fender knows fender clearance and in my case adjustable spring plate clearance is always a concern .

from his experience he sees about a 1/2" growth total height so that would be 1/4 per side if you think in that terms .also because of this the sidewall gets narrower with speed this does add sidewall clearance .he has seen cars with side clearance with 1/4 " rub or not rub so it depends on the vehicle .

When I was building my trailing arms, I had much less clearance than that.  However, I was using a much stiffer tire that didn't squirm around as much as your DOTs or slicks.  I had 1/8" clearance to the tab on the TA that connected to the spring plate, and slightly less at the 12 O'Clock position to the fender arch.  From that, I learned you need more clearance the lower you move down the tire.  During cornering, the contact patch at 6 O'Clock is where the tire is getting pulled.  So max deflection happens there, and the minimum is at the top.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Billyisgr8 on April 26, 2011, 12:53:57 PM
I wonder at launch how true the tire stays to being round.  Dragster tires become severly distorted from the turning rim  which pulls the backside into being almost flat which gives the top more of an arch.  This is very extreme example, but maybe Darren has some slow mo launches that show his tire moving around some.  Our 26" tire wouldn't move anything like on a dragster, but you really don't know what the movement is until you are trying it out in a drag race start with some 1.5's 60's.

Nice write ups so far on the step by step Jim.

Kevin
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 26, 2011, 10:26:12 PM
  again sorry for a non super detailed write up as this year i dont have the time and there is just so much info in the starting stages that was acquired i could never type it all up .but hopefully this shows a to the point approach so far.
the bearing plates are made of 3/8 " steel plate over 1/4" plate .because the way the arms are being built .weight over flex wins .
reference : a  8" by 12" piece of 1/4" plate was 7.5 lbs and the 3/8" plate was 10 lbs . with 2 pieces of plate on hand the DOM 1 1/4" OD tubing was also purchased from metal supermarket .
  the 3/4" high strength heim joints and weld in threaded collars were picked up from John at Chief Chassis .and yes there is a difference in quality and strength  ,please dont assume just because its a 3/4" heim joint its strong .you better check the strength as you will find out many cheaper or off shore heim joints are no way near the strength of high quality units.
   the bearing housings are a weld in stock type available from any vw parts supplier as are the bearings , seals and 930 cv joint size stub axles .the rear Neal disc brakes were purchased from Fun runners (http://www.funrunr.com/).
you can imagine all the checking and test fitting leading up to this point that has taken place, and even after all that i still came across one last change before i started on the jig assembly .i will save that photo for last as it shows the whole concept that allowed for a unique design i'm quite proud of .we'll see if anyone picks it out .
like i said as i made each piece a duplicate was cut at the same time .starting with the 3/8" bearing plates .
both plates were pinned together with 2 small roll pins so both pieces could be cut and drilled at the same time making sure they were exact duplicates
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0490.jpg&hash=38feb785c0fd7b3ecf361492488fc7a97fb4c901)
the plates were marked in half and 1" from the end a 2 7/8" hole was drilled .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0491.jpg&hash=1a0dc4ba672ef376f793d4939bf45a5b3afb241e)
here we go , with just a little around the world sanding of the 2 7/8" hole the bearing housing slid in perfectly .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0492.jpg&hash=c4ef1ac8dd48df91afb3abb954e94964034b56ca)
nice and flush , these bearing housings are designed to be welded in , but i will go another route just in case something goes sour and it needs replacement
or modification down the road
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0493.jpg&hash=7e22434f2c19f1d8b74bd43cffaa751818a3ea99)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on April 28, 2011, 07:31:00 PM
Wow Jim! I can really appreciate the time and effort in not only the work involved but also the calculations, head scratching, trial&error and last but not least the documentation you share!! You_Rock_Emoticon
Love this thread, your car kicks ass! Keep it up
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 28, 2011, 11:13:06 PM
the inner pivot point has been lowered 1 1/2" but the 3/4" bolt retains the stock pivot point angle .the heim joint sits on the bolt and the 3 washers are stacked on top .the first washer has the ID bored to allow the inner ball of the heim joint to sit inside it and the other 2 washers when tightened down square the complete assembly and stop all movement .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0679.jpg&hash=538213fe1752855da0a7a73588e1627a79555e4a)
   added the 4" piece of tubing up onto the threaded tube collar ,break out the tig and tack the tube to the collar .the threaded collar allows the heim joint to adjust in and out as well as gives a good solid welded connection
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0680.jpg&hash=09dda5e8cf39cb578d9f2189ed8d4f840e802af9)
   now a picture i do not have is of the master bearing plate template , when i pinned the two 3/8" bearing plates together to bore the 2 7/8" hole i also decided to pin 1 more piece of 1/4" plate to them .now i had a master plate to work from .and as i worked on the first control arm , any hole that was drilled was also copied to the 1/4" master so it was just a matter of pinning the 1/4" master to the new 3/8 " bearing plate and use it as a guide for boring the needed fwd 1/2" mounting holes , worked fantastic.also i kept a thin cardboard template that i laid over the 3/8 plate and marked the location of the diagonal tubes .it will make sense as the pictures come up .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0684.jpg&hash=278299d48d6b808d67dd07687fd2d455bdee5986)
  with the new bearing plate fwd holes drilled and diagonal arm holes marked time to mount up the new bearing plate to the jig.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0683.jpg&hash=1996b7e2ec4e03541815143808ee8fb4bcb721c3)
  i had mentioned before how the jig is made universal, and it does not matter whether you are making a left or right arm they will turn out the same  .this is how the bearing plate and bearing housing mount and get squared/centered to the jig or in this case raised 3/4" up .
 on the right side of the jig is a fairly heavy piece of angle iron clamped to the lower side of the jig used as a guide , and for reference if a 1/4" shim was laid vertically against it. then the outer edge of the bearing housing was slid over to touch it the stub axle would be 100% dead centre to the complete assembly , look at the pen mark on the green tape it shows the centre of the lower part of the jig. what has happened now is there are 3 blocks all 1" thick .i needed to stack them to get the height .so take out the 1/4" shim and add back 1" of shims between the bearing housing and the heavy angle iron guide and when the bearing housing is slid over and just touches the 1" shims, the assembly has just been raised 3/4" above the centre line .at this point the 1 fwd bolt was tightened very well  to keep it all in place .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0682.jpg&hash=dc88ec884e2c81b8390d125ab797820ddcdcfd1b)
 time to get the diagonal arms in , sorry i do not have a picture of the tube notching jig in use , i will see if i have one and post it .but like i said i made duplicates of all pieces when the first arm was made .now something i did was use 1 1/4" wooden dowels to test all my angles .way easier to keep trimming wooden dowels than steel tube .once i was happy with the fit and angle i would just replace the wooden dowel in the jig with the 1 1/4" dom tubing and cut the same notch . in this photo i have taped the first diagonal test dowel to the 4 " stub piece from the heim joint and with a thin wall 1 1/4" ID tube slide over top of it with the end cut at the correct angle .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0685.jpg&hash=e2aea914086c2e0a4b53f9d4fa356c9f459b7a54)
slide the tube down the dowel and line it up onto the marked holes.you can see something is odd here .there are white shims between the 3/8" bearing plate and the mounting arm welded to the vertical arm of the jig.the mounting arm is welded to the vertical arm of the jig at 90 deg and its centre mounting hole is again centered to the jig .if you remember in the earlier photo with the stock test arm it does represent the length of a stock spring plate .that's all can say for now.
 if you dont own one go buy one of these level boxes , they are magnetic and are fantastic to work with .i think i paid under $ 25 up the road at lee valley for it .the complete jig is level in both directions and keeping things equal and square are a must when trying to duplicate left and right parts .here the 4" stub tube and the first diagnal tube are squared up .you can see the inner pivot and mounting plate centre hole lining up centered as well
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0687.jpg&hash=9afb5647010d2c697d5c6639d793b2882e70271e)
tack the lower thin wall tube to the bearing plate
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0688.jpg&hash=f75717f4082682f78ea0e8f3ea54e90156b84a13)
the lower bearing plate is again removed from the jig and the thin wall tube is cut leaving about 1 1/2" on the short side .simple now loosen the drill press bed .and wind it up against the 1 1/4" hole saw .it almost adjusts itself , well almost .snug up the height and bed angle pinch bolts and clamp the assembly to the drill press .test the setup by raising and lowering the hole saw into the tube , it should go with no binding .
drill away as the thin wall tubing is now the perfect hole saw guide .
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test fitting a piece of the 1 1/4" dom tubing and it passes through no problem . it was decided to do this instead of welding to one side of the 3/8' bearing plate as welding from both sides as well as the tube passing through the plate would be allot stronger .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0690.jpg&hash=e24b8b05f6a2e75adabff925d7eb669a53af1689)
back to the jig and mount it all up again , square up the lower bearing plate as before , slide the new first diagonal arm into place and using the level box square it up .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0691.jpg&hash=0aa9ccda4e24e5062e8ee23ffe936acb0e2d0369)
sorry had to use a photo from the first arm , but i think you get it , same thing again using the wooden dowel for test fit and the thin wall tubing as a welded in guide .
remove again and mount back to the drill press as before and bore the 2nd 1 1/4" hole through the plate
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0533.jpg&hash=03461a0912b52730acbd8e156366b5e983fcd5e0)
something i have not mentioned is how difficult it was to design the arm and actually get room for the shock and 930 flange to clear and work together . i lot of sleep was lost over it but it all worked out .this shows the holes in the bearing plate drilled and the bearing housing bolted to the plate with the stub axle in place .just making sure it clears as it is tight.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0534.jpg&hash=10fbca64118567111f815ca79241d49131187e71)
the complete assemble was again removed, the 4 bolt holes for the bearing housing were marked and drilled . you can now see the fwd 4 bolt  holes , i will tell you the most fwd stock location one will go.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0692.jpg&hash=ab433ade7416cf751ce8550a05a90421dfd5d37e)
here it is the completed lower plate , wow that's a bit of drilling .its in the process of getting all the scale cleaned and prepped for welding .where the red marks are points i would bevel out more to allow for better welding penetration .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0699.jpg&hash=d11416081bc9324effc2afe5e17ed0e860b339f5)
quick view, time to get it done . bearing housing bolted to bearing housing plate and shim blocks back in place
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0700.jpg&hash=fb2700c88135917cfd44758e4e1ced8bed520274)
slide assembly over just till it touches the 1" shims and snug up that 1 centre bolt ,note the notched diagonal tubes prepped and ready to go
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0701.jpg&hash=95d8c02c974e3efd8a911abcb5acdc25b81b8bb6)
make sure its level
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0703.jpg&hash=78bd167c8dfab3bac1d3a918b7f07947baf51c30)
slip in the lower diagonal tube and 4" stub tube and square it up .tack it in place
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0704.jpg&hash=08f6f111d72a7435d6ce4f514147eb5c2ad56676)
install top diagonal tube and tack it in place
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0706.jpg&hash=e300fb148b63e49be115a204cf068bd8da8b8fd4)
tig welded and left in the jig to cool
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0725.jpg&hash=d5e99d7e47190fc18a2d31ddba90c9a141dcbd11)
this is something i did not notice right away .the top pivot point was actually pulled down 3/16"
no problem its still all square and gives a bit more clearance to play with on the torsion tube
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0724.jpg&hash=956eb1920252ebf02b7aaba05594d6118431fd83)
all done both arms .the finnished arm just needs to be trimmed and smoothed
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fbusbox%2FPICT0726.jpg&hash=3f10c31496ed3ceb14b9dfe1331f433f272bc0b1)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 28, 2012, 04:35:19 PM
well to everyone that has sent me e-mails, FINALLY as promised looks like i will get around to finishing off the 2275 great canadian nitrous engine build.
that same 2275 motor has been a absolute workhorse and has taken a unbelievable amount of abuse not to mention its fair share of nitrous .
 since that build started that motor went through many changes as i worked towards my goal of running the ultimate strip/street motor.
i cant believe it but that motor may never be back in the "WOK" again but you never know as i'm not done with running nitrous .

 i was going to sell it complete . but ,when i pulled it out i had to pull it apart as i wanted to inspect the internals and see how things have held up and freshen it up as needed.
the 2275 is out and stripped down and all components look fine ,actually better than i thought with the only obvious issue is a couple of loose intake lifter bores.
i started by sending the case out to get 3 of the 8 lifter bore sleeves redone .and in true martin fashion it went completely south and has taken up to just this last week to get the case back , well at least to the boarder.parts are ordered and comp eliminators have gone to Darren's for inspection .the reason for worn already sleeved lifter bores is a combination of ceramic lifters and very aggressive custom cams with fast ramp angles.
the initial plan with the 2275 was to use a set of my old CB 044 heads with a cb2295 cam in place of the current comp eliminators with custom nitrous cam  ,but the 044 heads proved to be non repairable .so reassembly of the motor into a turnkey full street version was abandon .
which lead to the decision to build a new street/strip motor around the present comp eliminators, fk89 and 12.5-13.0 compression or a fk 87 and compression in the 10-10.5 range ........hmmmmmm
  will go with the fk87 which is more than fine on 94 pump and some street use and would be more than powerfull enough on the track with or without nitrous .i may need to break that motor in myself now that i think of it ,nothing seats rings better than some nitrous.

something else i will be putting together will be a 1956 cc street motor, using a 76 mm crank with 90.5 barrels and a Engle 110 cam and old school heads with dual springs and a set of 40 dells ,and a bunch of tricks and old school parts . should be a great runner with tons of torque.
this motor will be sold turn key ,thinking of using all the tin from the 2275 but will see how it looks and deside at that point as either motor would look great with it.
 and at present , i have my current busbox out for upgrades and a new 2442 motor coming that's just plain silly .
you will have to pick your favorite parts out as i have no idea what order its going to end up in .the shop is clean , parts are all on route so let the fun begin .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 21, 2012, 08:36:23 AM
well time marches on.
last year when i switched to my present bus box i also switched to a new gearstack .4.13 ring /3.44,2.08,1.44,1.09 this gearstack was desighned to allow my nitrous motor to pull longer and harder in all gears .but with the increased traction with my new suspension even with spraying a 75 shot off the line it would bog the motor down .trying to work a newgearbox/dual clutch with managment system and dial in suspension was a lesson in 2 steps fwd 3 step backward.
and in last trips out to mission test and tune the gearbox started making a loud whine so it was time to stop and pull the motor and gearbox before i break the new gearbox completely .
gearbox was in great shape except for some excessive backlash .
this is where the obssesion for more speed begins .
a new plan which includes a higher mph would included upgrades to my present motor as well as a yet another gearbox upgrade .
while planning the motor upgrades the gearbox was sent to our local expert Terry Hoogstins , for those who dont know Terry he is our local organizer of the super shifter event at mission as well as being one of the nicest and most knowledgable people you can talk to .
Terry completely d @a my gearbox and installed the new taller 3rd and 4th gears .THANKS AGAIN TERRY .
new gear stack is 4.13 ring 3.44,2.08,1.35,0.93 .hmm those should give you a idea where this car is headed.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0267.JPG&hash=dd96843cd6076e7fd26689b60f1bc450ae9ff53c)
gearbox has returned and waits for the next step .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on July 21, 2012, 02:58:01 PM
I saw your engine pics this week, looking good!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 21, 2012, 03:44:41 PM
I saw your engine pics this week, looking good!
shhhh
its whats under the hood that counts
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Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on July 21, 2012, 06:10:42 PM
The Wok2??
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on July 21, 2012, 07:05:58 PM
Sorry Jim but secrecy isnt my thing.......Kevin already built a singleport turbo. I do like that your doing it with two Kadrons and propane. Dare to be different!

 :051bye:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 21, 2012, 08:17:26 PM
Sorry Jim but secrecy isnt my thing.......Kevin already built a singleport turbo. I do like that your doing it with two Kadrons and propane. Dare to be different!

 :051bye:

the propane is the kicker. totally dual purpose. make a pass...head back to the pits...hook the extra line out to the bbq...and we be grillin'!!! :103:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on July 21, 2012, 08:23:24 PM
Better yet, lets cook pancakes at the GCVWS!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 21, 2012, 08:41:00 PM
Better yet, lets cook pancakes at the GCVWS!

we could jack up the back of jims car, put in on stands, pull a wheel, hook up a belt and pulley drive system mounted to a couple of beaters in a mixing bowl, idle the car and mix some pancake batter! ;D
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on July 21, 2012, 08:59:11 PM
At least he could get some seat time  lol_hitting
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 22, 2012, 08:59:23 AM
grumble grumble , seat time grumble grumble .kick me while im down , grumble grumble pancakes grumble , facebook grumble .

well its true things are moving a bit slow ,but i will continue to look at the bright side , which at this point not sure what that is .

fuel cell was dirty so out it comes and since i needed some more tig practice i decided to weld on some fuel bungs
AN-12 in the sump and a 3/4"npt on top .
also i found a fuel leak and rewelded the bottom seam , good thing that c-16 has blue dye you can sure tell where leaks are .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0273.JPG&hash=e272337d1c2d296134e606cc8a8dad5f26ac5018)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0274.JPG&hash=a959cd0848c7fdd5d6370f59f278368da49b408f)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0275.JPG&hash=4f5b1ad65632bfa8f9543a8f8552f03d3fc02bc5)

suckered my youngest daughter into helping polish up the tank and mounting plate and now its off to the anodizers for military type 3 hardcoat .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 22, 2012, 09:10:01 AM
grumble grumble , seat time grumble grumble .kick me while im down , grumble grumble pancakes grumble , facebook grumble .

well its true things are moving a bit slow ,but i will continue to look at the bright side , which at this point not sure what that is .

rotflmao...

the wok with the new drivetrain and powerplant is going to be kick ass!! that tank looks cool too, cant wait to see that special hardcoat!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 22, 2012, 09:19:20 AM
this is what it may look like but i 'm sure it will depend on the aluminum and finnish
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_4294.JPG&hash=8df04f1cf7a753f731cf367bd411c938b39dc9b7)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: beetleboy on July 25, 2012, 12:14:14 PM
the new "wok" going to be at the gcvws?  FING sweet JIM!!!! 
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 26, 2012, 11:41:49 PM
the new "wok" going to be at the gcvws?  FING sweet JIM!!!!

we'll see how she goes , playing the waiting game .but im sure it will see light this year .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 15, 2012, 07:36:29 PM
lots happenning at the WOK SHOP .
parts back from anodizers , wiring repaired and updated , gauge swaps ect but still need the new heart for the WOK
its on its way , or so im told .
will start loading all the steps starting this weekend as things move along .
but here is some fun stuff .this is kind of nice to listen to , turn it up and feel the idle .
IDLE   (http://www.dialedinperformance.com/images/2442/IMG_0711.MOV)
this is funny a dyno recording with a phone taped to the back of your head .
this motor sound killer.short but crank it up for fun
PULLIN   (http://www.dialedinperformance.com/images/2442/IMG_5138.3gp)
i think this was the second pull . 388 hp and over 330 ft lbs torque at the rear wheels, not bad for such low boost  , i need bigger tires .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_0848.JPG&hash=5007b6c48ae3185ef99d118ea66530aa2ed60a6b)
more to come
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: BUSDADDY on August 15, 2012, 08:22:22 PM
Bad link on the "pullin" video but the idle sounds badass as do the charts ;)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on August 15, 2012, 09:01:03 PM
Sounds like they built you a ripper!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 27, 2012, 11:35:17 PM
coming along .
old wiring needed to go as it was in a bit of a mess and there was so much extra electronics for the nitrous and all my other electronic bits it need a major revamp, as well as my steering column needed to come out for repair as the clamp holding the combi switch housing cracked,so the combi wiring needed to come out as well .
gutted and looking not so good,and have to admit not looking fwd to it
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0268.JPG&hash=0cb3d7eac95579f6a263eda95c6d92792c9ab353)
on a up swing to the wiring .
way better everthing is in one of 4 harnesses ,and routed much better and leaves easy room to add onto .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0287.JPG&hash=59edacb4b0859d14ad9aff23a80541c027894c2b)
i had found a break fluid leak from the right steel line to the brake body fitting , replaced it and repositioned it ,
cleaned the pealed paint as well as drilled the extra tunnle hole for the -12 line .
mallory fuel pump is also gone ,but mount stays just in case its needed down the road
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0286.JPG&hash=222f5b2a77c12f4d9ecd822fd06eed8b92f399aa)
picked up the fuel cell and mounting plate from ALTECH ANODIZING   (http://www.altechanodizing.com/) , very happy !!!
these guys were excellent to deal with and very knowledgable and able to assist in what type of anodizing i needed for my aplication ,
give them a call and ask for ED or DAVE
the mounting plate recieved the type 2 anodising clear , and it turned out fantastic ,
 i highly recomend getting anything you are going to get anodized polished as the results ar unbelievable .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0289.JPG&hash=21062f2a0678a2116ce6a07b392f14f1dc81f48a)
now the fuel cell originally i thought i would need the military hardcoat anodizing but lucky the owner is also a racer and turns out type 2 hardcoat anodizing will be fine for methanol fuel .the only downside is the clear when used with hardcoat turns the surface a milky tone .so black it was and it will be a nice contrast on the mounting plate .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0291.JPG&hash=1462407e4569c17ece9733ae4caaba880198792c)
thursday was the day and at 4 pm thursday afternoon the "boozer" touched down in the shop along with 8 more boxes of bits
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0292.JPG&hash=4e08b36fd05139d7b30368c61b3648f858f10602)
---now if you have the chance something i did right away before moving fwd was connect the trans to the motor while its on the floor to make sure the clutch is going to work out.what happened last year when i first put the bus box in and my last motor there was excessive travel in the clutch do to using a tilten dual disc clutch and the late style pressure plate and throw out bearing .major pain pulling the motor in and out several times getting that figured out ,if the trans is not out and your mocking your motor up and while the cranks in the case install your clutch and mount the case/crank/clutch assemble to your trans in the car and check it out , you may be thanking me down the road .
tuesday will finnish tranny mods and in it goes , and time to start pullin the "boozer" down into a long block and shoehorn it in ,
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on August 27, 2012, 11:46:40 PM
Nice!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 28, 2012, 10:51:00 PM
on target for the day , tranny mods completed and modified the alternator end support just to make everthing a bit more solid .
trans is upgraded with some new turbo gears , i still cant believe im running a turbo , arrrg .
changed the stack to a taller 3rd and 4th .
new stack is 4.13 ring /3.44/2.08/1.35/0.93
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0303.JPG&hash=6432508b16c4276ba461045b4f3430bd7660b6f7)
in she goes , IRS is so much nicer to install over a swing .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0305.JPG&hash=34ec46df6ceb990d11341fc4b2c83010a3c50ef2)
tomorrow , need to order a few more bits ,strip down the Boozer and get ready for the first test fit of the long block .
and if it fits it aint coming out , those valve covers are looking like they may cause some trouble
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: 52 split on August 29, 2012, 12:07:00 AM
always trying to learn, what is that on the bell housing.looks like a limit switch? and what does it do. thanks
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Jeremy on August 29, 2012, 10:18:05 AM
That engine doesn't look very street friendly. I take it the WOK is race specific now?
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on August 29, 2012, 11:34:33 AM
always trying to learn, what is that on the bell housing.looks like a limit switch? and what does it do. thanks

my guess would be for data logging??

That engine doesn't look very street friendly. I take it the WOK is race specific now?

Meth runs stupidly cool..........no need for fan shroud
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Jeremy on August 29, 2012, 11:51:35 AM

Meth runs stupidly cool..........no need for fan shroud
[/quote]

Really. I've never seen that before. I'm surprised more people don't go that route. (are you f$%cking with me action-smiley-060)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on August 29, 2012, 12:35:16 PM
I don't know much about it but there are lots of issues to overcome..........not just a drain the tank and fill with methanol :hum:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 29, 2012, 10:24:44 PM
the "WOK" has and will always be a 100% true street/strip car, it is just as happy getting icecream or a white spot run with my girls or spending some quality time at mission .it just keeps going through changes as i experiment with different motors , fuels and power adders.

-switch is part of my CM system which allows for adjustable clutch slip in 1st and reverse.which is very gear box friendly .
 
  on track for the day , stripped the "Boozer"down to a long block and made allot of notes ,and in the above post you can see lots of lines on the motor needing a more solid mounting and some things need modifying just to make me happy
after some coffee /measuring it was time to break out the cut off wheel ,will break out the touch up gun later as im sure there may be a bit more work needing in the engine bay .end result was elimination of the engine bay side rubber guides on the triangle left and right plates .and i have to say the long block slipped in very quick and was bolted up solid ,like i said if it fits it aint coming out , so in it stays.and yes teh clutch works nicely this time around !!!
had to quickly bolt up the one pipe and hang the turbo and just make sure the deck lid does close and yes it does with lots of room to spare .
and most important room to get the valve covers on and off
- side panels trimed
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0305+%282%29.JPG&hash=03099cfad538c135dadc5e2648c677fcfa9e1f77)
lots of room , but will fill up fast
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0306.JPG&hash=ba047a54b387996c494eefb8f87b9a2a6da029b5)
i hope the sump doesnt drag
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0308.JPG&hash=ac52247699297f8b83362885492318503e1162cf)
just enough space for the exhaust to squeeze by
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0309+%282%29.JPG&hash=092b496e400d69162573c507de30ad960914ed19)
all closed up must be a stock dual port under the hood
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0310.JPG&hash=12c773d29095b7ab38db37e6cd677a291a8fc300)
thursday will be mods to the header ,order some more bits and reinstall the ignition
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Gaunch Launcher II on September 07, 2012, 06:49:22 PM
Awesome Jim.  You are going to like not filling bottles.  Are you going to make the 14 or 28  Test and Tunes?  I might be at the t&T on the 28.  We can line up together for a few passes once you get a few shake down runs in.   
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 10, 2012, 06:26:35 AM
i'm going to miss not running the bottle , nitrous is very easy to tune with .
i'm pluggin away at it so not sure when it will run but sooner more than later .hopefully i will get out this year ,but after waiting so long i just dont feel like rushing anything at this point as i dont want to do things twice .
once i get the header back from the ceramic coater it will go very fast ,done lots of small things and just need to get around to uploading them .
talk soon and good luck at the track
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 19, 2012, 07:41:23 PM
well it took a long time, as with everthing there is always issues ,as with most race motors they dont use any gaskets as the motors dont stay together long enough and are usally taken out and inspected after every major event.and my header was buildt the same way . i could just use some permatex ultra high heat silicon but i decided to make some custom copper gaskets up .which of course made everthing not fit anymore .so a bit of cutting and tigging was in order .this did alow me to get some extra clearance where i wanted it and everthing fits together with out any issues.
sent it out to KOOL COAT   (http://www.koolcoatceramiccoatings.com/) and it was done in 4 days ,v band clamps were a concern but it was put on so thin at those points its not a issue .have wrapped 3 of the 4 pipes with header wrap and will do the last one tonight .have made my last of the boarder runs and have 90% of the parts and everthing else is cleaned and serviced and ready to go ,finally its time to make some headway .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0424.JPG&hash=6eadac3ce0ebcd60a0490707eeaa8770402fc396)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: 70's Looker on September 19, 2012, 08:22:17 PM
well done jim, ive seen the kool koat truck driving around, those pipes looks like that kids toys in dentist offices that you slid a thing around on em, could you maybe make something that you can do such a thing to? it would pass downtime at the track i sware!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 20, 2012, 12:16:28 AM
its a wrap ,used the titanium wrap from DEI   (http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/motorcycle-exhaust-pipe-wrap-kits/titanium-exhaust-wrap-lr-technology) .took a bit but she goes in tomorrow night .just need a few more stainless straps

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0484.JPG&hash=31b89c204270e025551f001a40634fb9415a31b8)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0488.JPG&hash=be590a0a57c79e32fd4be466df6921e4b8e0166d)



Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on September 20, 2012, 07:55:13 PM
That stuff is a PITA to make look good and keep tight! Looks sweet Jim!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on September 20, 2012, 08:19:38 PM
That stuff is a PITA to make look good and keep tight! Looks sweet Jim!

yup, saw this setup tonight and it looks good!! the boozer is really coming together! :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 20, 2012, 08:37:59 PM
we'll see how it holds up , i might safety wire it every 3" ,but we'll see.
im just trying to make sure i cut down as much heat as possible for street use with the decklid down .figured all the exposed pipes could make things a bit toasty , but hey if head temps are way down then i will unrap and let some heat in ,never know till it runs
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 21, 2012, 12:24:42 AM
headers in and im really happy to say it fit fantastic and no need to pry anything .
after i got it in made a mental plan for fridays shift .looking fwd to it ,one piece at a time .

im glad i modified the header and got all the copper gskts in ,not a real fan of exhaust leaks
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0490.JPG&hash=b92d8e1338f049a3c95dd27ae20adb2db3744521)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0491.JPG&hash=83c0334d32cae1770f1969dd8701a0db93a714e2)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0492.JPG&hash=4cabb73fe1253dc40321a256072731648e0f554c)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0493.JPG&hash=f549e369fe2c266be6f86040381ff04ae9ed7f83)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0494.JPG&hash=7309bd54a444e4ea5536bdd25d640076a07b7819)

the alternator needed a little extra support .machined a 10 mm stud to sit deep into the case as well as
a support bracket at the end to take the shake and complete the mounting triangle ,happy to say its very sturdy now
and i dont see it being a issue.a bit of clearancing was needed as the alternatorswung into the rear seal groove.
oh well another job for the cut off wheel

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0495.JPG&hash=2fd2e1cfce0427964532ec6537b73a41dd0d9047)

alternator belt adjustment will be no problem ,this adjuster works great
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0496.JPG&hash=fdacde1d536466980b67f28d4ef5c43a393c7b92)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 22, 2012, 11:45:22 AM
one step at a time , there goes better part of a day to modify the throttle cable guide,
make extensions and mount  under the vehicle
then get the lincages figured out .the old throttle lincage was bent and rubbing badly on the case .
made a floating sleeve in the centre of the lincage to take half the load of if needed as well as replaced all the heim joints and made securing brakets for the fuel dist block and economiser valve .
now i can mount the upper intake and get the turbo back in
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0501.JPG&hash=704de21163791a2b496eada6a29bea253c919263)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: OUTKAST on September 22, 2012, 10:38:19 PM
Super clean and well worked  out .The wrap looks good lota going on back there to keep things concealed 6 thumbs up  :72:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 25, 2012, 11:43:28 PM
well picking away every night for a few hours ,
the other night i finnished the bracket for the economiser/dist block on the right bank
blades open and ready to go ,took quite a bit to get the lincages sync'd but shes all good
she tight but room in the needed spots
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0502.JPG&hash=512048ea8be04227cdd1a40bd308ab81073f45f2)

last time these will see light for awhile,but a good shot of the lines to the injectors
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0504.JPG&hash=13f9f14db80f2fccfe1094db76ffdbc2c79867f5)

gaskets made , used mr gasket exhaust flange material ,easy to work with
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0506.JPG&hash=a5a358fc848aaa374ad8b75ccc094bb1b0f7761d)
the holes in the middle are for throttle shaft lube access
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0507.JPG&hash=66a9444d43e44f0074b6e9083e5f63c370aa7dbd)

finall intakes on and not coming out
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0508.JPG&hash=f3fcd1415f1975511eddce5674817916f2e56ec6)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0509.JPG&hash=280bf26189a8487a51cc40433f6d275bda8dcc47)

and finally the moment i've been looking fwd to ,turbo on
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0511.JPG&hash=9e04a4f0280ec0cbfe032a862789c6094e627b63)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0512.JPG&hash=f623f716df34b2d016e080f77541aa751b5898fb)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0513.JPG&hash=e35891b858aa562eb1ff2b2270f879375add8565)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0514.JPG&hash=ff121cd6e7be014ea2bbdbab10f245bfc591f634)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0515.JPG&hash=e007796a1019badc3a5b7e7af199ba84951deae4)

just a few more major pieces to go .
the exhaust outlet header and the airpump
then its run the oil and fuel lines and finnish wiring .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: red snapper on September 26, 2012, 06:39:57 AM
Nice work Jim!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on September 26, 2012, 06:40:30 PM
Hell ya!! Love it Jim!!!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: BUSDADDY on September 26, 2012, 06:59:39 PM
That's magnificent!, nice work!.....................................But I've gotta ask, what are you doing for a cooling system if it's a street car? (not a burn, just curious).
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 28, 2012, 11:21:21 PM
That's magnificent!, nice work!.....................................But I've gotta ask, what are you doing for a cooling system if it's a street car? (not a burn, just curious).

no worries its already been asked and i will give the same response as i gave in a earlier post
" the "WOK" has and will always be a 100% true street/strip car, it is just as happy getting ice-cream or a white spot run with my girls or spending some quality time at mission .it just keeps going through changes as i experiment with different motors , fuels and power adders."

methanol vs fuel burning is completely different , here is a good example .DO NOT TRY THIS .
wet your hand with gas and light it , i guarantee it will hurt and burn you instantly .But if you ever were filling your old Coleman stove or lamp and without knowing you got the Coleman fluid on your hand and it happened to ignite .you could sit there and stare at the blue flame  as it just burned without really hurting ,eventually you would freak out and put it out ,BUT again no instant burns or pain.
so now with that same fuel in your motor ,there are pros and cons.
 cons ,harder to get , use more , corrosive if left to absorb moisture
 pros, less explosive than gasoline,burns at a cooler rate ,wider tuning window,makes more power than gasoline
of course there is way more to it than that but bottom line for a air-cooled vw is due to its burning properties there is just not the heat produced burning methanol when compaired to gasoline and if a standard vw cooling set was used nothing would ever come up to operating temp , and the biggest problem is getting heat into the motor ,that's one of the reasons i have a oil heater in my pan .
but i base all this on others experiences  and will see if it is actually does what its supposed to do

anyway , today finnished mods for the vacuum pump , resealed it ,machined new spacers, modified internal baffles in stand as well as machined up the alt stand and changed it a bit .very happy with the result
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0516.JPG&hash=23ff7f4fd47a771a40fb1d59faa31feb3b019f55)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0517.JPG&hash=e8b52137b85d401b4c1286501db1fab80ca46d33)
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over half way on the downpipe ,cant wait to get it done as that will be the last of any major time consuming fabricating
its tight going down and its a slow process but so far going very well .then things should ,knock on wood go a bit quicker
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0519.JPG&hash=2c262e8a6488565854ba029c1c60b44c49e0a9b4)




Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on October 14, 2012, 09:42:45 AM
a few late nights 2 weeks ago allowed me to finish the mock up and final weld of the turbo header,holly crap it was a real pain trying to get all the pieces to come together, talk about slow progress with endless cutting and trimming  .
i ordered from my favorite place, JEGS , two 3" V band clamps and one 3" J bend pipe made of 3" 18 gauge mild steel tubing  .
i used the top half of the dyno header and went from there .i needed it to snake down tight between the #4 pipe and the turbo flange up pipe which gave me the room needed to clear the mechanical pump and oil lines as well as leaving enough space for a nice smooth radius for the tip to pass through the centre of the rear apron ,well it fits well and was a great tig welding project .
the V band at the tip allows me to switch between a race bullet for the track  and a muffler for the street.
sent it out on last Friday for coating ,one of my work colleges (thanks Jake) lives out that way and was nice enough to pick it up this afternoon from the coaters and since he was coming into Vancouver dropped it off.
man it looks good .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0562.JPG&hash=2782f96f222309796825885e730b18b7f640703a)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0564.JPG&hash=76be994713c4660be24b789b92b219211660acea)
oh well time to wrap it up .takes some practice but I've got header wrap down to a science .
just waiting for my stainless steel zip ties witch will replace the rubber bands.also this time
i safety wired the header wrap ever 3-4" .will do the rest of the lower pipes as well as it really makes for a secure fit .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0579.JPG&hash=de25bd092223e302a41a648f46b94475dc5bb7bd)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0580.JPG&hash=7807a194e452d7347b43157c0ed9c285c14c0b42)
had to get it in and it was a bit tougher sliding in ,amazing what a slight difference in thickness makes .
well it did snake in and looks really good .between the ceramic coating and the header wrap i would hope this will help drop temperatures as well as make it safer as there was no doubt it would be just
a matter of time before i would burn myself.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0585.JPG&hash=d90b20c9e5210e6629e81f1517181e3c0159ff8f)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0586.JPG&hash=f49deb893575323acc522d774458d8305ce4a20e)
seen the weather ! everyone needs a hat ,or at least a turbo blanket
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0589.JPG&hash=501bc24b1d91cd87205e7f702bc5a78385a35f7e)
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i did not know the difference or better yet the names or styles of the different turbo set-ups and when looking for a turbo blanket using there supplied measurements they were way to big .my turbo is a old school ON-CENTRE where the exhaust housing is centre of the exhaust flange and not the newer style that looks like a snail shell i believe that design is called something like tangible ? i may be way out on that name .but contacting Garrett i got a part number for one they make and of course ordered it from JEGS.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on October 14, 2012, 04:59:44 PM
re&re'd the oil filter assemble ,took it all apart and cleaned her up .no choice as a few things are changing especially line and fitting placement .the filter base is still the same return style housing I've been running for years ,works great and actual tested the return valve and hooked it up to the compressor and T'd in a pressure gauge and at 82 psi it started to open , not bad .take a look at Jaycee's web site it has some great products .JAYCEE (http://jayceevw.com/products_pg-2) oil filtration is always a big issue with any motor ,and since its very possible my oil can become diluted with methanol which in fact can break down a paper filter element , so it was time to step up to something really decent. this unit is unbelievable and is better than any paper based unit and way easier to use and clean and monitor engine internals .i took it apart and its pretty well built .no more cutting HP1 filters open again   LAT OIL FILTER (http://www.ranchotransaxles.com/store/lat-oil-filter-p-99.html?osCsid=ad6fjt9jqi50j2c6bj62vvojv0)

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Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on October 14, 2012, 09:53:05 PM
I have the same bypass setup....what do you have off the branch of that Tee? check valve or?? Are we gonna see the rest of the oil system?

Really looking forward to the end product!!! Keep it up Jim!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on October 16, 2012, 06:09:55 AM
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goes like this
= 90 coming into the brass tee is from engine oil pump output to filter input
= 90 in middle of bypass filter base is out from oil filter back into motor
= from the bypass valve there is a "T" ,the bottom hose from T is bypass return back to sump
= the hose at top of T is input to electric system priming pump
= output from priming pump goes to one way check valve that is attached to pump output/filter input
when the electric pump is turned on it uses the return hose as its oil feed and pressurises the engine oil pump/filter lines and complete motor .use it before every start as well as have let it run when i need to do a quick engine shut down .
has been a very reliable setup over the years
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on October 16, 2012, 05:52:10 PM
Just a bit more complex than your basic full flow job eh?

I will be figuring out something similar as I have an accusump to pipe into my oval one day, thx for the breakdown :rockon: :rockon:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 03, 2012, 10:50:38 AM
there are 3 lines that need to be run from the engine back to the tank .
AN-12 supply line (bottom left),AN-6 fuel return (upper left)and a AN-6 boost reference to the turbo valve on the fuel cell (straight up) .
i must admit after removing my old aluminum lines in the tunnel i was not looking fwd to
routing 3 new lines ,but it went so smooth i could not believe it .
here's a spy shot down the tunnel .snapped it and then capped it back up
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cleaned up the turbo boost valve and finally mounted it to the fuel cell .
replaced the rubber diapram and internal seals .nice to take these parts apart and see whats all involved in there operation .
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all the unused fuel under any engine running condition returns through it via the AN-6 line on the passenger side of the valve .
and when boost pressure is applied to the AN-6 line on the drivers side the boost pressure pushes a diaphragm that moves a piston which restricts flow to the tank and richens the mixture under boost /load .a little more to it than that but you get the idea .
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removed the original cell fuel foam and have replaced it with a methanol safe foam .some like it and others dont but for me if it stops the fuel from splashing around and it does 2 things .keeps the fuel low in the tank as well as stops it from causing weight shifting by restricting fuel movement .4 pieces will cover the bottom and 1 extra directly below the turbo valve to help prevent excessive aeration of the returning fuel .
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stuffed in there ,you can see the extra block place directly below the turbo boost valve return.
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all in and fits very well with very little air gaps ,but just enough to check fuel level using my painters wooden stir stick
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replaced the removed filler cap
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had to weld up a new 90 deg fitting for the return line ,but it was a fun tig project and clears the hood and
the new stainless vent line looks great .
ready for fuel
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going to make some rubber caps next week and cover the point where the lines entre the tunnel .
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Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 26, 2012, 11:46:19 PM
all the major modifications and fabrication and upgrades to make this motor work in the WOK are done , friggen about time .i must admit it looks unbelievable and i cant wait to fire it up  .and its been fun making all the upgrades and bits and pieces along the way but it all needed doing and redoing .one thing I've done is tried to made sure everything is accessible and serviceable so it can easily be worked on , yes its friggen tight in there with all the lines etc but it seams to work, and I've had to get in and remove parts more than once so i can install another many times without any major hassles.so far so good .
sorry for the bad photos but lets get caught up .

- the 4 lines coming up are for oil temp/oil pressure/engine vacuum/boost pressure.
was nice i was able to use old holes and not have to plug them up or better yet drill more  .I've been pretty lucky as my poor car has had so many motors upgrades there's more mounting holes and guide holes then i can count from all the bits added or removed .that's speed i guess
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 - the breather after it leaves the tank connects to a coiled line that is chemical safe and exits in the same old place under the vehicle and is capped with a small k&n filter to prevent dust and dirt entre
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- the AN-12 as well as the other 3 lines exit in the same point as before which is through a hole to the right of the transmission  .the fuel supply sneaks in behind the breather tank and connects to a Hilborn in-line fuel filter .the 3 lines on top are the fuel return,boost pressure and oil pressure lines.and the oil temperature probe is in the lower frt right of the sump.
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- over the header and connecting to a 90 and a T fitting before finally getting to the pump .the red valve valve is T'd into the fuel supply so i can easily drain the complete fuel system for flushing and maintenence when needed .
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- talking about making things accessible .there is going to be a huge learning and tuning curve with this motor , one thing i have done is resprung the wastegate unit ,gotta walk before we can run .so this means removal and instillation of the wastegate unit will happen multiple times and even thou it looks like it wont ever come out it removes easily and can be out and apart on the bench in less than 15 min , see if you can see it in some later photos .the turbosmart wastegate was original set with 14 lbs worth of springs .it was decided to pull it apart and set the waste gate to 7 lbs worth of springs and get my plumbing and boost controller operating 100% before stepping up .its a very simple unit and comes with a nice ring wrench and you simply spin the aluminum ring off and separate the top cover and add or remove springs .this also allowed me to rotate the top and bottom  port positions to give better line placement which made connecting the wastegate to the solinoid simple .
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there are 2 basic ways to plumb this wastegate .based on whether the turbo system has high or low back pressure , i was originally plumbed for high backpressure but had some questions and after talking with Marty at turbosmart things got cleared up and i became allot wiser  .so i will take his advice and plumb for low backpressure for the first run as it wont hurt a thing and will give a great starting point to get things operating smoothly .now i'm no expert as there is so much science to do with turbo sizing etc ,but i'm pretty hip to how the whole boost control thing works and in a nutshell goes like this .the wastegate spring sets the min boost your system should in theory make .for me i should make 7 lbs of boost with the 7 lb spring .and at that point the boost pressure will overcome the 7 lb spring and open the wastegate and bypass exhaust gases past the exhaust impeller and directly out the tailpipe ,this slows the turbo and of course decreases boost inlet pressure and maintains 7 lbs in the system .now this is where i will now learn if my system is indeed high back pressure or not .if i cannot make anywhere close to my 7 lbs of boost that would possibly mean my exhaust system up to the point of the exhaust impeller is backing up causing a positive pressure in the exhaust system and that positive pressure would push against the 7 lbs of spring pressure and help lift the wastegate valve off its seat prematurely and cause the exhaust to bypass the exhaust impeller sooner and slow the turbo down and of course drops boost pressure way down .so i would either need to increase the spring strength or go back to the high backpressure plumbing as before .the high backpressure plumbing simply puts some boost pressure to the top of the wastegate housing and aids the spring in keeping the wastegate valve closed allowing the system to build its set boost level , all of course this is in theory and needs testing .
this is when i was figuring the lines out and missing is the one 90 deg on the centre port .and its just a matter of moving the lines around and i can switch from the low or high system backpressure plumbing in minutes .this setup is for the high backpressure setup
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- fuel shutoff installed and plumbed before the fuel metering block .need to figure out where i'm going to mount the fuel cut lever in the car before ordering cable .
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- fuel return and bypass lines , a easy bracket to make and stops everything from floppin around
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- throttle return spring  and bracket setup , 1 per side . added the 3rd spring just in case
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- all the plumbing's in on the left side .lots' hose
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-at least the plug wires are in ,#1 and #3 are a bit tuff to get to .hope i can get the plugs out
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-there so much going on i figured toss up some photos and you can figure it out 
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- complete , just need to put the last firewall grommets in and make a bracket for the LM1 cable and install the case vacumm line
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now its time to finnish the wiring and put it on the scales .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Shane on January 31, 2013, 03:23:31 PM
Been 2 months.....updates, what does she weigh?
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 01, 2013, 08:13:02 PM
Your right Shane its been awhile , i just got swamped in early December and finally took a good needed break with family and friends over xmas and into January ,but been out in the shop a few times for a hour or so .and really just got back into it last couple of weeks.
Yesturday i spend a good 6 hrs out there working on wiring , I've really simplified it now that the nitrous controls are out .like any project sometimes the smallest things take the most time and wiring is one of those. i fought with the signal wires to the dist for over 1 hour before i was happy ,but its well routed .gota keep things sano.
the scales are under the car and ready to go  ,i've got a weight in my head we'll see how close i am .hopefully the % frt to rear and side to side are in my target zone . i just need Silas to give me a hand bleeding the brakes and it could be dropped down onto its wheels , most likely will run it first on the stands as there is some adjustments to be done as well a very close leak inspection .
what's been done since last photos ?? ,quite a bit actually .
 finally engine bay wiring , routing of vacuum and boost lines ( ran them through the old clutch tube  ), pedal assemble removed and remodified ,boost controller installed/ grill modified and custom trim made ,oil heater cable installed,  shift light in horn button , secured all hoses through tunnel , picked up fuel , trans filled up , tested clutch management , coil remounted and i'm sure some things I've forgotten .
today finnished wiring and mounting the ignition box and cleaned out the inside of the car and even got the floor mats back in . and that leaves the final wiring under the hood .
i still have a few big items to do , install safcraft fire system ,data logging equipment and figure out where the hell i'm going to mount the fuel shut of cable and handle , really need the seat in for that one so i can see what's the best spot .oh and i need a pair of frt shocks ?i just remembered i gave those mexy originals back to Bruce  .
i have some photos but there not to exciting will try to get something up in the next bit as something's always better to look at than nothing .
will get more photos up of final assembly and scales etc as well as video of the first fire up .
April 5th is not to far away
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on February 01, 2013, 11:25:38 PM
lets do it and get the wok back down on all 4's!! i'll give you a ring tomorrow :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on February 02, 2013, 10:26:27 AM
Looks incredible Jim!! Always admire your work and all the time invested to document and share the build here!!
Keep it up man and can't wait to hear this beast!!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 25, 2013, 11:39:40 PM
well as promised time for some crummy photos , but better than nothing .so many small things i just keep picking away at and slowly getting there .if i really wanted to run it its just a matter of adding some oil and fuel .but i'm kind of enjoying the no panic pace i'm on .
speaking of oil , i love doing research and this stuff may be the perfect air-cooled vw oil .lots of zinc [3,132 ppm], happy with flat tappets ,and the boys at Lucas tell me this oil continues to do its job even when diluted with race and methanol fuel
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03464.JPG&hash=e7787c52b813bb9be0770e9d8862034c7cba4c85)
i could not find this oil in bulk in vancouver but a quick call to JEGS and it was good to go .i got a hell of a deal at the time
and paid under $100 for each pail .
LUCAS OIL  (http://www.lucasoiloffroad.com/lucaspdf/Racing%20Only%2020W50.pdf)
here you go Shane , scales are there and i hope it wont be long .
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oil heaters wired up
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shut off cable is routed and finally happy with the location of the fuel shut-off handle ,will final mount this weekend .
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man i was wrong there is still allot of wiring .and going from frt to rear makes for a nightmare at times .
but 100% of wiring is in and tested ,just need final strapping down in final location to tidy it all up .
this was a good idea a terminal strip on the left inner fender .made for easy connection point from wiring coming up from back
of car to dash
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this worked out well but took some time as i really didnt want to damage the paint , but the e-boost is in and ready to go.and finnished it off with a easy made stainless ring .finally got the alternator wiring correct and the red gen light works now.and you can see the shift light in the horn ring ,hope it works out or back to the drawing board on that one
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well im happy with my TIG welding skills on steel and aluminum so figured best to dive in and do the rear muffler out of stainless .
muffler is a fully polished magnaflow 3" unit and also got 2 stainless 'J' bends from JEGS.my old a1 muffler is a perfect fit and will use it to make a jig for the new muffler  .should be fun .
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last weekend is the first time i sat in the "WOK" in a long time , kinda nice .cant wait for the first run .
this weekend im going to bleed those brakes for sure and get the shut off cable finnished and prime the motor and check for oil leaks .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 01, 2013, 10:49:25 PM
  well good day today .it was a bit of a fight but finally got the shut-off handle mounted and cable secured ,between the bends in the cable and the tension bracket on the handle i'm not worried about anything moving on its own. the cable and handle are from JEGS and are parts from there parachute release kit .but the cable is sturdy enough for fuel shut-off and possible other uses .to remove the passenger seat i just release the quick release cable end on the handle and flip it down .
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rear seats and carpets will go back no problem as the cable snakes quite smoothly
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03468.JPG&hash=1b38c053e02b21ec372d3dc766527c2fdcc752b5)
out to the engine bay and to the fuel shut-of valve that goes to the metering block .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03469.JPG&hash=13b9e1fec4bf7f746dec74c11fade856edd3737c)
used the old fuel regulator mounts and made a quick bracket for the o2 sender
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03475.JPG&hash=55fecaabf71fc350d9f56b519f31f6b481ec6f3c)
gota like lists and man i seam to put more on them than i cross off , almost done .
also better add to my list my rear muffler and a pair of frt shocks ,better get out the tape measure and see what i need 
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03476.JPG&hash=8919e4dd434e41891ecbdfe8c75f0f63d52ccaca)
and i did get around to priming the engine today .put in 5.5 liters and plugged in the sump heater . 15 min i had 180 deg oil , wow .
flipped the oil pump and built 30 psi in seconds . what was cool was i was able to feel every oil line and they all were very warm which tells me all oil is moving well and the heat transfer to the rest of the motor is really good as well , very happy with the oil sump heater .and what luck , no leaks .
still going to bleed those brakes and then its almost go time .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 17, 2013, 11:34:02 PM
finally got those brakes bled , and yes i did fire it up .
it was quite a show .rpm , smoke , fire , noise but everything seamed to be ok .and it really sound good /loud.
which really made me think yes its time to get the muffler done before the wheels hit the ground .
got all the pipes cut and test fit and of course no argon in the tank so welding is on hold till next week .
i used my old A1 header .made a initial jig/template and with not to much work it came together quite well .
the 3" stainless pipe was easy to work with and cut with no problem .
one thing i was not happy with was the MAGNAFLOW fully polished muffler , the main reason i bought it was due to the fact it said its fully polished and the pictures show a fully polished unit . BUT unfortunatly only the main case and end caps are polished then its welded .so the welds and the inlet and outlet pipes are not looking so shiny .when i talked to magna flow they basically said ya we know but it should buff up ok , jackasses.
guess its time to break out the polishing wheel later on
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03481.JPG&hash=c7eb8aac8471e2e9942c2889738aa9ec5f365e34)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03484.JPG&hash=d0510e7f270b248a88ac179e62f2532262f9d457)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03485.JPG&hash=27039d9546224ce0550bbcf7fed5acef09d4091f)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03486.JPG&hash=5b6a57771783e570bc2264810c634cd7c0b8eb7d)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FDSC03487.JPG&hash=a54341943754ca50fb485a1e602cad060871e1d3)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Gaunch Launcher II on March 18, 2013, 09:01:51 PM
Your really close.  You are doing some nice work Jim, can hardly wait to see it and smell the fumes as you go down the track.  Do you think alcohol is easy to pass air-care with?
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on March 19, 2013, 10:49:45 AM
lovin how you brought the header out in the regular NA collector location.....all looks super stellar Jim!!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 09, 2013, 12:01:24 AM

been awhile so i figured i would toss up a bunch of new photos to pass some time
its all muffler related and in the end from start to finnish most likely has taken 15hrs, theres alot of mock up and
test fitting , you only get to cut once .
well checked stainless welding off the list of things to learn .
its quite a process and involves a good amount of time being spent on tig setup , tempo , heat and shielding control .
i did use a great material called solar flux for shielding the inside of the welds and if anyone needs some info let me know .
the stuff is fantastic and allows you to eliminate the back purging process with argon .
well after a great deal of practice it was time to tack it together .
this is the stuff and as luck has it you mix it with methanol and form a thin paste
and you paint it on the inside of the material to prevent the sugaring process caused by lack of purging the oxygen
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0005.JPG&hash=6d842499cba6bd7dfae5daacb0f68f24bd0c115b)
first pipe tacked and ready for trial fit, really important to have no gap with stainless steel welding 
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0007.JPG&hash=591082eb5ca0ed730318931cf43a3b1d2a5ca91c)
first test fit ,so far so good
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0009.JPG&hash=234c11d5a330679bb5259820c2ccc8f40472d875)
v band flange marked and time to weld it on, this is what the solarflux looks like applied to the inner surface
the light grey powder wipes away and the dark black is left there , it can be removed but it will flake away over time .
it is basically a very thin layer of glass .and i did remove some on my test welds and the welds look fantastic with no sighns
of sugaring or excessive weld penatration .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0021.JPG&hash=7d1f0b630ca9169e1482769d5e73060b5cc59973)
v band flange welded on , as long as the welds stay in the blue to straw color your doing alright .
a little more work and a different filler rod needed to weld a mild steel v band to a stainless tube
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0013.JPG&hash=6082408f9918f4cc1048e1183b9727ffe4e8166d)
main pipe welded and back it goes for another test fit and to mark muffler position .
no turning back now .the weld on the transition pipe has been cleaned , and the whole assembley will polish up well
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0015.JPG&hash=82fe558493e768d57ded916189f8be17cfb91141)
welded and tucked in a bit more than the old muffler
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0017.JPG&hash=9b8ed7ceb2f23bc638d7071cfcde92da3e16d166)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0018.JPG&hash=a17531d7ac3628e94319226ee477dcd8f5fe57c0)
tip and bracket on 
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0019.JPG&hash=f5d7c1868e1d987be533298fc2d2e543f87ed7f8)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0020.JPG&hash=e71a0dea1eed4fe61365b8b77905eb2bf4d287b1)
i mentioned i used my old A1 muffler as a guide .it does tuck inside the rear fender more
and with the use of 3" tube over the original 2 1/4 " its turned out pretty close
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0022.JPG&hash=217b10dccdc7080f869965018a1d47d4891fc55a)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0023.JPG&hash=1741cc5eda3897f6265a55ac97dbbcd4252e0f0d)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0024.JPG&hash=f13135c0e95afb0b85276cb933ab718efd6f7558)
all done and hung , thing will be a bit quiter now.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0028.JPG&hash=450ae187f6a8fae3a66cdd62cbfe1fd9816dce0a)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Geoff on April 09, 2013, 07:59:34 AM
nice work!!!!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Darren Dilley on April 09, 2013, 06:43:31 PM
wow dude .. that's some killer work
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: buddy boy on April 09, 2013, 06:46:14 PM
Can't wait to see and hear this thing !!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 10, 2013, 10:46:07 PM
thanks guys
tossed some wrap on the main bend , figured i would leave it there and see if it grows on me .
probably will decided once its on the grd and see how it looks .if all measures well i should have almost
a wopping 3" of clearance under the sump and muffler , may need to raise the car now for street use .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000020.jpg&hash=549cc128e5bb293f0586dbbdeb27cf87c7433e31)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000021.jpg&hash=05e69dd208e20675d6c7efc8b462d65c2f26435f)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Jeremy on April 10, 2013, 10:51:24 PM
Killer work Jim. I like the wrap.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 24, 2013, 06:25:37 AM
no wrap .just shine.

bought a polishing kit from lordco for $17 and gave it a go .
the power drill did not spin fast enough to melt the wax polish bars but the angle grinder did
turned out way better than i hoped and saved me from taking it to a metal polisher .

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000064.jpg&hash=45bdfaf51f6230acdbe9ab65833ecfd86fd43faf)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000065.jpg&hash=c2f345367459869e0d8689cb2088127a74c91a0c)
yep looks better for sure
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0028.JPG&hash=450ae187f6a8fae3a66cdd62cbfe1fd9816dce0a)
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000066.jpg&hash=cf9955f804b55d1b5567d5f52ba3bf57fc296bd5)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Stephan Schmidt on April 24, 2013, 03:56:08 PM
Absolutely beautiful work Jim!

I'm excited to see this car in action this summer!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 24, 2013, 07:44:18 PM
wont be long now , everthing i've been waiting for has arrived .
its going to be a good weekend
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 10, 2013, 11:40:36 PM
well have made the first test flights and happy with the motors operation ,starts and runs very well ,sounds great and with short shifting and low boost and throttle limit it pulls very well .
have a small gearbox issue but will work that out and hit the track very soon to dial it all in .
here we go shane
on the scales
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000172.jpg&hash=70f505406a439deeb378f458f48919ec5803cee2)
1727 without driver
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000171.jpg&hash=21e452c4b38048d59d7127532762a5f7aca31133)
1911 full race weight
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000173.jpg&hash=15f47495ffc9d02f48f88967bd1516e4afe163d1)
just need to install safecraft fire suppression system
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 01, 2013, 11:16:27 PM
wow 7 weeks and its on wheels again .June's a busy month for the martin family .engine and trans are back and the WOK is ready to go .was able to upgrade a few bits a wanted to do and happy with the improvements to the throttle and data logging .fingers crossed it will stay in gear this time .will know next week when i take it out for a drive .
one thing i promised myself is i would get the fire suppression system in before i take it out again and its finally installed .
system is a safecraft 5lb SFI system with 4 nozzles and pull cable activation ,did my homework and this company seams to be very well known for high quality .
i removed a electrical switch to the left of the ash tray and installed the pull handle , and i hope i never need to pull this handle .after sitting in the car this spot just made since due to the fact its not blocked or hard to reach and can easily be seen.cable was then able to loop in behind the fuel cell and into the car .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0041.JPG&hash=ab4b31c31eab797ec273927f0e55e3996c91cd27)
figuring the best place for the bottle was a bit of a chore to many options was going to put it right up frt but it just seamed wrong if you hit the wall head on . so followed the basic rules . keep it horizontal,cross wise in the car and try to go midway if running 2 lines .also since i did need a bit more weight at the right rear modifying the mounting bracket and attaching it to the battery box worked perfect .rear seat covers the bottle and also allowed for the pull cable to run along the tunnel .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0042.JPG&hash=3616e6b9eed0e3be38442606df60e382f5af6694)
nozzle placement is up to the owner as there is no set in stone rules .basically it goes like this .
FIRST , you need to be able to stop the car and if your feet are getting a bit warm you wont be able to push on the pedals so the first nozzle colored blue is to be mounted below the waist and aimed towards your feet .all the nozzles cover a unbelievable area of about 120 by 120 deg .you just dont want this spraying at your face for obvious reasons .you can also see the pull cable was able to use some old mounting point in the tunnel so nice for a change no to need to drill anything
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0040.JPG&hash=2023de82f60cf4c5b8cc9d1d8a160e29a84a2c19)
SECOND ,engine bay .do to high voltage ignition and hot headers as well as the obvious multiple places for fuel leaks to happen the engine bay gets 2 nozzles colored red .ok i'm lost and i played for hours on the best place to put them,again used some old holes from where my nitrous lines would pass through and it really worked out well
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0043.JPG&hash=aa4bb1bebf0c5ccda54f0161bbb6c2562dacc7ae)
 also did a little test spraying some nitrous and it really helped to figure best placement of the nozzles .i may end up putting both in between the motor and intake as this is where 80% of the lines are and everything gets covered by both nozzles and should even hit the deck lid and head down to my mechanical pump .for the time being i'm going to leave 1 up high and 1 in between .
will do a full test with some co2 or NOS and video the results and see what's the best  placement .the main thing is get them in there .
even as as shitty as the picture is you can see the coverage the nozzle on the #1@2 bank gives
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0039.JPG&hash=b072c6b823f766951ed3af15ae490184a5b8184e)
up high on the left
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0038.JPG&hash=010b6e55f80201a8ddadf4f486fb2b813632f38e)
and LAST the fuel cell .top or bottom ? who knows .so i'm told leaking fuel does not ignite by itself and since there is allot of wiring up top seams mounting the nozzle colored red up high covering the cell and with a slight aim down should work best
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FPICT0036.JPG&hash=62c192ec697dce212cee3ce9f683a4c2e2018c69)
- please if you are installing a fire suppression system dont take my component placement as gold ,test your own and make your own choice.
i will test the system as i said and see how it works and try to post up the video .should be interesting to see and will make final position based on the final blow off test .
these systems do a unbelievable job of putting out fires but there real purpose is to give the driver valuable time to get out of the vehicle 
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on August 05, 2013, 09:16:47 PM
Quote
the 'WOK"......10.867 sec at 121.45 mph

date stamp the above as of aug 3rd 2013...the wok is an official 10 second street/strip car that can blast around the streets of vancouver with passengers and back up 10 second runs at mission raceway!! wicked!!

 :band1: :singing: :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: 52 split on August 06, 2013, 06:50:18 AM
a thing of beauty for sure in many ways. but cruise the streets with no cooling or charging system. but what fun short bursts they would be.  Woot_Emoticon
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on August 08, 2013, 10:50:39 PM
a thing of beauty for sure in many ways. but cruise the streets with no cooling or charging system. but what fun short bursts they would be.  Woot_Emoticon

please revisit page 9 of this thread for all your cooling & charging system needs aswell as a good definition of street/strip. ;)

i think you'd be pleasantly surprised at how well this car handles life of the streets! :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 10, 2013, 10:04:16 AM
well the test and tune on the 9th was great .first time i think i did not have to mop up oil .on Saturday 3rd  evenning drags i was pushing oil out my dipstick but logged some very good info that i was able to use for the next outing .as well installed another sensor to measure crancase vac/pressure -- at present im lgging .lambda,rpm,crancase , boost .. with these 4 items you can get a very good handle on where your at .last outing i was at a lambda that was so rich i was filling half my oil catch can with raw fuel .the nozzles are capable of supporting 30-40 lbs boost and since im not anywhere near that i moved down to a smaller nozzle that will support around 20 to max 25 lbs .started each run as a mild pass just cruising and logging data , ran 3 next pills and each moved me toward my ideal lambda .now it was time to warm the tires and see what it will do .first run was probably the most ideal conditions , very little wheel spin ,launched straight and pulled very well 10.630@128 and felt smooth as could be .now back at the trailer the good news was there was no raw fuel in the oil tank when drained . oil blow bye is reduced as well and engine stayed in vacumm the whole pass even under boost so the rings can now do there job of sealing the motor.at launch im dragging the sump so suspension work is now top of the list .
had a absolute great day and of course had the best support  .my daughter Ashley and friend Silas .thanks guys could not do it without youbetween silas and ashley there is some phots im sure and will get something up soon
see you at the great canadian on the 23rd .i will be there for the test and tune and work on getting a vw area organised as well
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on August 12, 2013, 11:30:28 PM
it was a really fun day at the track. always happy to be a part of it...good times!!

also great to see the dilleys & pat the pit boss, the constants & terry hoogstins out there too!!

here are a few pics and a vid of a burnout (no, it's not a vid of me ;D) and a hard launch...then my camera packed it in...

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F1097726.jpg&hash=6a787dbad7a3da29b422dda9498f14ceef680a4c)

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F1097725.jpg&hash=47ffedded3bb15f134e7bd8dcc42af3d7a89e17d)

(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.thesamba.com%2Fvw%2Fgallery%2Fpix%2F1097724.jpg&hash=3372b5a0627a9c76b64d72422c8e8290b2272324)


*click on the pic below to see the vid...


(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1004.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf163%2Fsban99%2Fth_aug-9-2013_zpseed186fd.jpg&hash=f566f8ecdd280b27cc87db858092e49caa8fba95) (http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af163/sban99/aug-9-2013_zpseed186fd.mp4)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 13, 2015, 08:34:29 PM
cant think of a better way to break in a new motor than load the WOK up and head to mission
terrific day for a test and tune and bolted the muffler on and stayed for a pull for thr friday street legals
Boozer3 with all upgrades seams to be happy at this point now time to fine tune a few things

WOK testing at mission july 10th (http://www.tubechop.com/watch/6417817)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on July 14, 2015, 10:12:52 AM
Awesome JIM !!!! I was just wondering how the wok was the other day!!! Can't wait to see some passes in August!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 14, 2015, 09:19:42 PM
beauty! nice pass jim and great work for a first day back at the track. lots more where that came from i bet!  :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 16, 2015, 09:54:35 PM
Awesome JIM !!!! I was just wondering how the wok was the other day!!! Can't wait to see some passes in August!

Looking fwd to seeing everyone out there, josh are you going to make a few passes as well ?

I won't be touching my car for a bit ,knee surgery on Monday,best I get that clutch leg healed up quick
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: josh on July 16, 2015, 11:05:02 PM
With any luck?!?!? Need some shake down time before harping on it

Heal fast on the clutch leg! ACL?
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Darren on July 17, 2015, 07:46:48 AM
Probably more like old worn out Ski Bum knees!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 23, 2019, 12:12:57 PM
                                             the  "WOK"  is back 2019
QUEST FOR THE 9'S
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2Fwok+burnout.jpg&hash=0c3dd9c22acab36fd388b9fefbb1c3f8f3fee2da)

Well its been a few years ,maybe a few to many since my last posts .
Figuring it’s time to have some fun , get some data ,picts and information up and fill in the blanks from the past as we roll into 2019.
 The”WOK” has gone through so many modifications ,ups and downs, disasters and triumph’s it would be impossible to go back and talk about them all .
but will touch on those when possible as the “WOK” comes together In pursuit of that magic single digit time slip  , 9’s.
 - at present the engine is out and the list of changes are finalized and taking shape . Collecting the last few pieces and then the assembly and fun starts .
Topics coming up are:
 engine , oiling issues ,suspension ,DIY alignment/suspension tools ,turbo upgrades, gearing,MFI upgrades and tuning , multy disc clutches ,ignition upgrades ,
pro wiring techniques , data logging tips and tricks , and many more.

Also in the works is some very unique pieces coming out of the “WOK” Garage .

-- A new performance shifter with the adjustability to change shifter reduction ratios from 25 ,40 and 60 % ,allowing the owner to experiment
and decide what works best for them without the need to purchase another shifter unit.

- integrated electronics into the shifter base for gear reference and data logging .

And the most exciting
- Dialed in Performance (D.I.P) fully electronic CLUTCH MANAGEMENT control system. Works with fully hydraulic or Co2 based stock cable systems.
 Allowing for complete clutch control in all gears while strapped into your car ,
with 3 versions of electronics available which can be tailored to your race class or driving preference . Standard , push-button launch , electronic timer launch control.



Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 11, 2019, 06:54:40 PM
New hotVW's arrived yesterday ,great GCVW write up and lots of great pictures,
way to go to Everyone that works so hard putting the show together every year!!!!

WOK's out having some fun
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2Fgcvw.JPG&hash=1f7e009b0993d94ff4337c964f91dd581887e3c0)
and who say Silas doesn't enjoy racing ,i know for a fact he does .
he may be the only air-cooled VW that beat the WOK .still upset about that :(
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2Fgcvwsilas.JPG&hash=b56f1bc8ce81fd5ceb75c42c4bbbec248300d62e)
before i pulled the Boozer out i did do a quick leakage and compression test .
all cylinders less than 5% leakage and 130 psi 3 cranks , and that's with a cold motor .not bad .
im not a huge fan of the ring pack that’s in there but im not pulling heads for a re ring as it always leads
to more money being spent and sometimes i just dont want to know what my cylinder walls look like ,
not even going to look with the bore scope .

like i said the Boozers out and on the stand .why ?
not just for fun but for many upgrades and adjustments that can not be done in car.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5533.JPG&hash=e1a936f26d9468d0ab5bc03f81f831073f6d2895)

- heli coiling all the exhaust threads in the heads ,
yep threads were done and having poor exhaust flange sealing was not helping me.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5517.JPG&hash=4ab69dd7c027ad95daead664e694f790214568bf)
drill it -but hey make sure your square ,doesnt need to be rocket science
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5519.JPG&hash=b42cd5ae934b8f251c637e5f6ad64e5481b3b2bb)
tap it - and yes use cutting fluid it will make the threads crisp and will not allow the aluminum to gall up
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5521.JPG&hash=9a32acb9a9b6902c2f5c2b271bc1103f15096cab)
clean those cut threads with some brake kleen and blow dry , a dab of red loctite will help as well
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5523.JPG&hash=ac6bef5cd0939b25952d978ae722b59200d36aee)
heli-coil will wind in nice plus 1 turn more when last thread just disappears
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5524.JPG&hash=7c5c14e2955701b103f1ed09ad55e1fcac94e7d9)
snap the tang off and give it a wipe with a bit of rolled up paper towel and good to go .
you'll see why this needed doing soon .
done and finnished.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5532.JPG&hash=210b1696e85e421cbab53273e6acfe5c6c790df5)
the MAIN reason the Boozer came out !
not sure if anyone has seen this but this is what the REV6 clutch looks like .
i started playing with this last year and yes its getting there .but need adjusting
more to come
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5531.JPG&hash=d70cb8b33bef4c107dbd780e417df97bacd95fa4)



Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: kinggeorge13 on March 11, 2019, 07:40:27 PM
Great photos and sure looks nice and clean.   I've never yet used heli-coils but I'm sure one day I will and hope I can do as awesome as yours look!  I worry my first ones will be possibly for some spark plug hole threads one day.   Thanks for sharing! 
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 12, 2019, 07:52:44 PM
tested those freshly heli-coiled threads and remounted the exhaust system and proceeded with the next stage .
from the side you can see the turbo i've been running is a old school on center exhaust housing unit.
nothing wrong with it ,and does offer some options when mounting space becomes a issue ,but by design can limit exhaust flow
during higher rpm and possibly engine output which directly limits horsepower potential .
im always asked what kind of turbo this is and what size , so if your in the turbo know here's the scoop.
the turbo is a combination Air research and Garrett - T4 flange ,P exhaust wheel with a .96 a/r exhaust housing - cold side a/r .60 with a new 57 billet wheel .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5543.JPG&hash=15b03b592d5557b7cb70d0e9cab83bf2be4cb095)
time to mount the down pipe and wastegate ,need those on there for mock up
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5544.JPG&hash=b16c3dd5d1bdb5518082443ca84a50ee3e00f83d)
gota keep the downpipe exit in the same spot right? yah but if nothings changed who cares?
sometimes things gotta go
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5545.JPG&hash=d8303482bce30ee189d99956be7d197aa964bc5c)
time to eliminate the potential on center restriction and unleash any free power i can .
new .96 tangential exhaust housing ,so now you can see why the mock up was so important
its all gotta work and yes it will fit in the car still ,moves fwd almost 3" and lower by 3/4".
Mike Merrel at Turbos Direct is the man and if you need help , please call him at 623 376 2562
http://www.turbosdirect.com/ (http://www.turbosdirect.com/)
so my old turbo which is the same turbo needed help and no one out here could help.
One call to Mike and it was done .this gave me a chance to discuss my turbo and what it all means .
he fixed the thrust and endplay that was over .011" and oil leakage issue ,installed the new billet inlet wheel and supplied the
exhaust housing .
numbers go like this , as per Mike with the turbo in its original form would run out of compressor side before exhaust ,
(made no sense to me but what do i know),
so after endplay and thrust were repaired, he replacing the inlet wheel with a new billet wheel , that alone will allow for a
 25h.p potential and swapping out the exhaust housing another 25 h.p
so before the turbo was maybe good for 400-425 ish now it'll push 475 plus ish and do it  very efficiently , which is the most important
.it will make the same out-put 3 psi lower than before and never hit a wall till the inlet cannot move any more air .
sounds good to me so lets weld up a new pipe next .off come some DEI titanium wrap and trim the top
of the old downtube off to make room for the new pipe conversion
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5546.JPG&hash=25bf23ab04bd2a9340ba137ea29de30d323b9ab6)




Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: 70's Looker on March 15, 2019, 10:17:22 PM
I didn’t know you got in a calendar, wurth to!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 07, 2019, 09:25:21 PM
Finally got around to getting the exhaust mocked and  say 99% finished up.
   -used a bunch of bits old and new I had laying around and got it to finally fit .
Started by Machining a recess into a flat sided v-band to index and fit the turbo cast in v-band ,
Seems like it would be a snap to make fit ,but when your trying to scab a section into a previous made
Section its not always easy, especially with some compound curves to deal with .
First section welded up and kept the v-band firmly clamped to prevent warping during welding.
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5675.JPG&hash=52eb15cfabc297c0da4e5c297540a4895a0b0298)
Back on for yet another mock up
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5676.JPG&hash=4d2768ab6347b70c87f3a68beed3ea1aeed1840c)
Mocked and welded
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5689.JPG&hash=582ef16974bfe6d752bd4633eed5e05a9d3ff750)
New billet wheel ,nice shiny
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5701.JPG&hash=4af3d4f1a26a217357bd73248e5482fa74312be7)
Numbers on the outside of turbo housings cold or hot side generally mean squat
Im told always marked on the inside .this housing is a .60 cold side
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5702.JPG&hash=bcaa44a3c672f08d0d2eedd9dc7c35343cb6f267)
Time to pull the old on centre exhaust housing off, that’s a “P” wheel exhaust impeller
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5704.JPG&hash=28a5536ea9c68d38391a95f8875c9d3a760a99f3)
Here’s a good shot of both housings ,you can see the on centre is taller ,so with the
New housing im dropping down a inch and back about 3”
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5690.JPG&hash=8c65c299321268fd1bab56254e22fdf28d95fff3)
To prevent the cast centre section from rusting as well as the cast exhaust housing
Hit them with some high heat header paint ,in this case clear
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5706.JPG&hash=8d45cd98ff7e37704282997df69db1562c5a551a)
Wrap temp reinstalled and new exhaust downpipe fits great ,now I said 99% finished
I still need to weld the o2 bung on and strap the header wrap down after .
So Ill take the pipe off and over to the car for a hand fit and double check o2 location .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5707.JPG&hash=b1025fc821f265f14153acaad95b824aafeb38c3)
Spun around now time for a new intake ,all pieces cut .and working on mock up
Problem with turbo being lower it also has moved tighter to the 3@4 side of the motor
A little more testing and tig time very soon then shes going back in .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5708.JPG&hash=20f24eca947652a610512053a3337f2be38c9b4e)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 27, 2019, 07:19:13 PM
"THE QUEST FOR THE 9'S"
  well its no secret and even tho its like putting the cart before the horse we can still look at how and what it took to make it happen ,
and yes i was thrilled and a bit shocked that it did come together .
    always stick with the plan and take the time to make the correct steps in the correct order .
 after stringing multiple passes with all very low 1.4 sec 60'foots  and E.T's between
10.1-10.2 sec passes it was time for "the WOK" to get it done . a quick phone call , a last minute data check  and adjustment
and it was go time .
hell of a run , smooth straight and hey why not just skip the 10's and the 9.9's and dip into the 9.8's .
slowing down took a Little longer and i have to admit when i got the time slip i thought my time was the other racers but nope
it was my time .racing instantly over and time to celebrate owning a 9 sec car .
so now that i have some time will pick up where we left off and see what it took to get there .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974582.jpg)









Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 28, 2019, 11:06:01 PM
not to many pictures but started from the tightest side, orders my 2 1/2" mandrel bend in mild steel and started to realizing now this was going to be a bit more work than I originally thought.
compound curves , offset centreline adding new location for blow off valve ,AN fittings and just not much space.pain.
I ended up trimming the intake ends about 1" per side to get me some needed width or it wasn't going to go well .


(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974652.jpg)

no photos in between this and final product but ill tell you I walked away multiple times .
end result turned out very well and there is allot crammed onto it as well as fit the blow off valve offset and angled to get needed engine space.
yep desperate times and tigged it up with 0.23 mig wire .gotta stop being so lazy and get some 0.42 rod next time

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974651.jpg)

hey look the motors in for this shot ,ok since this is not going in the exact order some pictures may be outa sequence but hey doesn't really matter.
now you can see why the blow off valve needed to move from the old centred position for the old intake .it sits about 1-2" lower and would not clear fuel
distribution lines, tucking it in behind the alternator stand worked very well ,at this point is where I tested where the AN fittings needed to go and would more
importantly clear everything .marked out locations for the 2xAN-4 and 1xAN-6 .out she comes for a drilling and welding again and a final ceramic high heat spray.

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974650.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 29, 2019, 12:13:14 AM
now that the INTAKE is taking shape it was time to finish of the new fabbed EXHAUST turbo outlet pipe .
so once again motor needed to be in , so again will just jump back a bit then fwd again .
previously the motor was out and gone through with some good internal upgrades and new clutch system.
and while it was out I added the 4 EGT probes into my new data logging system .
location was marked 1.5 " from flanged, drilled and welded the EGT bungs

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974656.jpg)

rewrapped the pipes and made a jig that sat inside the header so I could index the probes at the middle of each pipe .
once there are snugged up once the ferrule grips the probe so the depth will never change even when removed and installed .
testing those help coiled heads now ,no more leaks and loose hardware

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974655.jpg)

last thing was to mount the turbo onto the header and fit the new EXHAUST turbo outlet pipe to get the o2 sensor bung best position .
make sure its between the 10 and 2 o'clock position to keep water or fuel from collecting in the probe .is there a good spot from a turbo .
ya but in my case farther down would of been better but hey its only for some ruff overall info and will depend on my plugs and EGT temps for
real state of tune

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974657.jpg)

here we go a shot of the final result COMPLETED/ checked of the list INTAKE and EXHAUST pipe .
hey tested fitted the new exhaust turbo blanket and also lines are fully attached to intake ,
lots more needed doing at this point and much was done before ,will decide which direction later

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974658.jpg)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 29, 2019, 11:14:56 PM
THE PLAN . Obviously I had a plan ,still not clear. ill fill you in
  this was the long range plan to hit the target 9's. and yes its long but this is what it takes .
all these items come from all the previous passes data and results , every pass means something and there is always something learned and noted down.
seams you just keep chipping away at it slowly over time .
 I knew my rpm drop from 3rd to 4th was to great ,and I needed to change the 4th gear ratio to make every gear % of pull equal , as well as I needed to
narrow the power band to work within the new tighter gear stack ,free up any possible exhaust restriction and raise EGT and trim over rich fuel curve.
Also to make it more fun ,I would stick to the D.O.T 6" m@h tire ,full pan car , no narrowed or raised rear torsion ,full synchro box.and keep the car streetable.
here we go ....

 - replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already




Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 30, 2019, 11:26:38 AM
well starting from the top of the list you see it all stems from taking the gearbox out .
- the gear box I'm sure has been discussed a bit a few pages back but this was my findings in moving fwd.
it was starting to shift and feel a bit notchy , no grinding ,and yes I was running a stock shifter to keep my shift rate
as smooth as possible but I was quite aggressive still  .but I was running a Kennedy dual disc which is alot of mass for the synchros to control .
also all the ship point seammed evenly spaced but when shifted into 4th there was a big rpm drop .
I just had the feeling it was pulling me way out of my torque window of 5200 rpm.

so THE PLAN ,increase shift speed to Lessing time not accelerating, gearbox out and inspect, replace all seals and synchros and exchange 0.93 for a 1.00 4th gear
- again thanks as always Terry Hoogstens for his time . I was completely thrilled that Terry only found Synchros slightly bent
no ring damage and 4th gear exchange a snap .while I cleaned Terry reassembled and performed the needed adjustments .
- with the Gearbox checked off the list it was time to head home and reinstall .
I have been sponsored by Lucus oil for years now ,but one thing they haven't been able to supply is a transaxle oil .
a little leg work and I have found the perfect product .100% WOK certified as the stuff to use .
like I was saying no wear in my transaxle !!,this is nuts I cannot tell you how much abuse and passes this unit has put up with .
 this oil does what it says it does .USE IT if you want your gearbox to live and shift like there's no tomorrow.
click torco and read up on it ,you'll see why
TORCO (https://torcousa.com/collections/professional-transmission-gear-oils/products/racing-transmission-fluid)
here is the best gear calculator on the web and what I use
im not going to go over it but play with it
use my gear ratios and values and you will see what I found about % of pull between gears.
 then look at the peak mph in 3rd gear say at 7000 rpm then look up the mph in 4th gear ,you will now see
how the gearing can either pull you out of or put you back into your torque window
use 4.13 ring and pinion,26 tire height,7500 shift rpm and gears 3.44 - 2.08 - 1.35 - 0.93 ( then swart 4th to 1.00)
you will see what I have done ,basically kept the engine from dropping bellow 5200 rpm for the 3-4 shift .
https://weddleindustries.com/gear-calculator
GEARBOX completed

- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 02, 2019, 01:31:24 PM
motor . here is some pict's I haven't seen in a while .
there are 2 ways to go , don't even look and hope for the best or pull it apart and inspected know ,this is what was found last time .
camshaft cracked on the thrust ,crap

 (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974832.jpg)

magnum timing gears done ,double crap

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974829.jpg)

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974830.jpg)

on a brite note all main bearings ok , rod bearings not bad
so clean up the case and start to slowly reassemble, this is where the time goes.
case is old school ARPM solid aluminum  , you can see i always calico coat all my main bearings , all type 4 steel backed
as well as sleeved lifter bores and center thrust conversion ,6 studded as well .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974841.jpg)

ok using a quality set of timing gears this time , WOK tested from the good boys at CE
COMPETITION ENGINEERING
3442 E. Wood St.
Phoenix, AZ 85040 map PHONE: 602.454.155

they've helped me out many many time and make high quality and spec parts as needed -- Dan Larson, the owner and super cool guy makes my custom copper head gaskets to my specs
as well as a ton of cool parts , if your in a bind call him up he'll most likely be able to help and get it done ASAP-- thanks Dan !!!

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974828.jpg)

nice new cam HMMMM specs super secret , pre clearanced with a bit of extra in 2 spots ,more to come

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974844.jpg)

CE gear fits real nice
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974839.jpg)


JIM ADD MORE HERE




Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 04, 2019, 10:16:19 AM
VWP #160 cam , must be super secret
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974840.jpg)

at this point all camshaft bearing work has been performed -- case has been assembled and disassembled multiple times .
testing both the crank and camshaft for ease of rotation when case torqued , again covered earlier in engine build topic .
for the first time cam and crank are in , #1 pointing up ready to slip on the connecting rod ,followed by the case half , #1 cam int and exhaust lifters and a few case nuts to clamp it together .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974838.jpg)

why , so I can install a piston , cylinder and a pushrod  to check and adjust cam timing .
this is a long topic , cam selection, rpm and torque , setting cam opening and closing events .
if you want me to get into it let me know , but for now lets see what I set my VWP #160 super secret fast cam to .
hey looks like I decided on 25 deg BTDC for the intake

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974836.jpg)

and for the important closing 65 deg ABDC for intake closing
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974837.jpg)

so what changed - my original cam was ground on 112 lobe with 22 /66 timing events for both int and ex
lift was .385 so if you know your cams this is pretty much a Emngle fk10 ground on 112 lobe running straight up or 4 deg retarted from timing card.
so why switch , nothing wrong with that cam ,very wide broad power band ,but for me felt like it rolled over in the upper rpm .
as well I don't think it was 100 % on for my gearing .so since I had changed my gearing and needed a new cam I contacted
Jason at VWP / paradise motorsports .why because my old cam was from them and in fact worked well and these guys are a great information source as well .
I ran over my plan and what I wanted.
I wanted a tighter power band making more torque from 5200 rpm up to 7500 rpm . so it was decided to step up a hair from what I had .it is always
good having something to compare against .
so 112 lobe went too a 110 lobe . lift changed from .385 to .398 and duration increased from 268 to 270
so its kinda like a fk10+ on 110 lobe with a hair more lift.
lifters are SCAT with the slr treatment , resurfaced , parkerized and polished.

jumping ahead here to engine in and ready to fire .HERE is a good tip /what I do : yes grease the lobes and lifter face with the camshaft break in paste LUCAS grease but only lightly oil the lifters before dropping into the case
as well as oil the pushrod cup at both ends and fill the pushrods with oil . in my case as well I remove inner springs and run .006 -.008 lash .
reason is you want those lifters to rotate as soon as it cranks and assembly lube may prevent that .
I start the motor run for 10-15 min varying rpm between 2500-3000 .shut it down and let it completely cool overnight .
next day same thing and finally 3rd day drive it around rolling on and off throttle getting some ring seal and keeping rpm above 2000 rpm .
home , jack it up dump break-in oil , and let cool down ,adjust valves to zero lash, and I have the luck of being able to remove my drysump pick up and yes can see all the lifters .
all good so new 30 wt Lucas break-in oil and filter , preheat oil and drive it hard .camshaft is broken in but still on single springs but now work on ring seal .good 30 min cruise hard
long slow acceleration and declaration have some fun and home .
back up on the stands .valve covers off , cool down completely overnight , remove rockers and retorque heads .install inner springs . reinstall
rockers reset lash .
cam is well broken in , rings are seated , now time for a drive it like you stole it run ,alway the most fun .

back to engine assembly
- crank prep final assembly, rods on and yep that's a home made rod bolt stretch gauge
and bang .005" bolt stretch  / its around 45 lbs 
picture of the calico coated rod bearings
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980147.jpg)
old shcool scat 88mm flanged crank and old school 5.7" eagle H beam connecting rods

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974835.jpg)

sorry again not a lot of photos but bam , short block just bolted together and  ready for the top end
looks like AutoCraft dry sump pump is installed , thats half the hard work done

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1974834.jpg)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 10, 2019, 03:20:20 PM
OK , gotta dig through some old photos for pictures of pistons rings ect ect will add them in-between when i check old phone and laptop .

 CE custom copper head-gaskets , in order to get the correct size/fit you need some info:
bore in head - cylinder wall thickness and O.D of cylinder , measure it all up and supply CE / Dan Larson with the details .
wall thickness is larger on a pauter cylinder -- even thicker than auto-craft and way thicker than cima ,
that helps in keeping things from shifting as well as deforming under high load/ cylinder pressure .
-- jim add cylinder wall data here --
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977268.jpg).
found a good picture of the bottom of the Pauter cylinders i was talking about , when ordering custom length not only can you now
eliminate those crappy barrel base shims and have your cylinders sit nice on deck of your block but can also order the cylinder skirt in the
length you want . mine are level with the very bottom bored edge in my block , this is a huge plus as it allows for full piston support during piston at
BDC . so instead of the piston pulling out past the short cylinder skirt its now fully supported , no rock there !!
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980151.jpg)
now if you measure it all correct the end result is a nice tight fit ,also fyi: the copper gaskets will not measure .1445" in my case but will in fact
measure  about .002-.003 smaller to allow for expansion when torqued .that way there is no overhang into the combustion chamber when torqued.
hey looking nice , gots be happy with CE quality - THANK DAN!!!
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977250.jpg)


Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 16, 2019, 10:16:54 AM
this is and may always be the most important part of any motor -- RING SEAL --!!!!!!!!
in the end if it aint round your screwed , you will always burn oil , have low and uneven compression and leakage, oil leaks  ,
 low performance and worst high crankcase pressure .
over the years i have majored in crankcase pressure control and it all starts right here .
----!!!!!----ROUND CYLINDERS----!!!!---
start by making or borrowing a quality cylinder torque plate set-up made out of heavy plate .
cameron made this set and its specific to pauter cylinder due to there thicker wall.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980150.jpg)
grade 8 hardware for testing can handle 50lbs easy
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980149.jpg)
also if you have ever seen a boring / honing sunnen machine it requires of course the block to be firmly mounted.
no can do with a free standing cyinder .usally they get hand held which of course does not make anything round.
so my torque plates do 2 things .1st allow for mounting to the sunnen machine .and yes this made Dave at
high performance engines in bby very very happy .he loved the setup .
hey  only 4 studs must be for the 2nd reason .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980286.jpg)
hey there ar
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 19, 2019, 03:09:36 PM
well knowing is everything and taking someones word for something may not always be the best thing to do .
now in my case the engine is 6 studded , hey gotta be the way to go , big race motor, big boost  ect ect .
well i noticed a few things , rattle on cold start and slightly uneven compression and uneven leakage numbers .
car still ran very well and made power but had some crankcase pressure issue ,i know this 2 ways oil puke tank overflowing as well as
my logged data showed positive pressure in the case anytime after 3000 rpm and 12 lbs boost ,engine originally ran at this time a wet sump
with a large 4 quart pan and my highly self circulating oil separator blow by unit .hey it worked but was kinda sick of it .
engine came apart for cylinder head repair , yep melted that one and complete go over .
Autocraft cylinders were done , heavy alcohol damage as well as piston to cylinder wall clearance over .009" .
also cylinder skirts were very short and with the thick spacer there was no support for the piston at BDC .
thats when i switched to Pauter .
apon measuring and inspecting the old autocrat cylinders i was worried as there was some strange wall markings - looked as tho there was no wear in spots and some spots
excessive wear .since the engine was in pieces i slipped 2 cylinders into a case half and a good head and torqued it to 32 lbs on the 4 main studs and 18" on the 6th studs
and measured from the inside of the case with the bore gauge .yep found the issue .
thats when i contacted Cameron and asked him to make a new set of torque plates ,
with my new Pauter cylinders it was time to test .
yep waited for Sherri to be outta the house and even went a bit farther by warming the cylinders in the oven to 100 deg
then into the torque plate .i measured in 3 heights - top middle and near bottom as well as 3 angles ,  2 at 90 deg apart then at 45 deg .
-- THIS IS WHAT I FOUND---
torqued the plate just as in the motor 4 mains at 32 LBS first and then the two 6th studs at 18 lbs .
yep this is no good cylinders no longer round .it was all over the map
you need to understand the needle is set at zero and anything to the left is smaller and anything to the right is larger than set cylinder bore diameter.
i played around for hours and tried different torque sequence and torque values even different cylinders ,this was a disaster i would have a avg of
-.0015 to+ .0015 when measuring the cylinder at different positions and heights .
--FOUND THE PROBLEM WITH RING SEAL AND HIGH CRANKCASE PRESSURES---
the fix ::
Started by torquing the 4 main studs to 15 then 25 lbs  and measure --still 100% round in every spot
-- torque to 30 then up to 35lbs on the 4 main studs -- dead on at zero
torqued 6th studs to 10lbs -- AND Bang CLOVER SHAPED by over .001" in spots,wtf.
so at least problem has been diagnosed . so from this day fwd have not torqued /used the 6th studs
basically a lightly dab of loctite and finger tight only .
So if i was going to use the 6th studs would need to get have cylinders delivered ruff bored undersized
torqued fully to 35 and 18 lbs in my torque plates and bored and honed to size .
to much work , why not just order and install quality headstuds , since i torched one perfect timing to  upgrade
ordered in my custom length http://raceware-fasteners.com/ (http://raceware-fasteners.com/) the best you can get in 205,000 psi
these will clamp down any head without issue ,
-- head stud photo here
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980753.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 20, 2019, 11:45:50 PM
like I said im pulling photos from all over and just as of today have located like 1000 plus photos , crazy but cool to look at .
again this is a no real order kind of deal but here we go .
this is the original autocrat cylinders and spacers .see what I mean now .no skirt to support the piston at BDC
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1981262.jpg)
again nothing wrong with autocraft cylinder , mine were just done and custom not a option from them ,time to move on.
here is a shot of a cima and a autocraft , I will assume im comparing ring end gap etc but good to see .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1981246.jpg)
yep things did not go well ,torched head left a mark as well as some methanol damage .heavy wear to boot.
could be machined out but there is nothing left ,if machined piston to wall would be way over .010" too much .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1981253.jpg)

pistons and rings next followed by heads
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 21, 2019, 08:24:57 AM
ok what pistons to use to take the abuse .
how about a set of old school JE pistons build for turbo use .
that usually means thicker area under the piston crown and good wrist pin support
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980157.jpg)
yep there old and taking a beating have some love scuffs but not dead yet
nice thick crown above the top ring helps keep the piston alive by taking the shock and heat energy
also this piston is what we call a full skirt which means the whole lower section of the piston is fully supported = very strong and less rock
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980156.jpg)
ring pack is a nice 4mm oil , 2 mm 2nd ring and a 1.5mm top with a 5mm crown , ringback area of piston recessed to allow for heat expansion
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980154.jpg)
replace the wrist pins with a much stronger pin , better be safe .there is a lot of force on those .not a place to skimp.
pins are held in with spiroloc type retainers from JE .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980158.jpg)

pistons also receive the calico treatment ,this really helps by adding a tuff layer between the cylinder wall and piston
in time of low or poor lubrication as well as taking up any excessive wall clearance you may have.i think it can be applied in 3 thicknesses.
light med and heavy . range from .001-.004"
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1980148.jpg)
b better make sure you cc the piston relief as well .
need that for that important compression calculation. mine are 4cc
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1981258.jpg)
found some other shots ,almostly always overlooked is ring groove depth and side clearance.
looks like im measuring my ring depth .fyi: on my pistons all ring groove depths are different .both the top ring and 2nd ring require custom back cut rings.
always make sure your rings fit fully into and below ring grooves in pistons.hey that's a Childs and Albert Z gap in there
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983710.jpg)
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983711.jpg)
I use various thin pieces of brass shim stock for checking ring side clearance .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983726.jpg)
well rings must check out as looks like its end gap time .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983709.jpg)

-- jim add piston ring info here--

everyone always freaks out about rings ,its not rocket science.
#1 use a material to handle the environment its working in
#2 if the cylinder aint round you will always have issues
#3 if in doubt use manufactures recommended end gaps

pretty simple ,ok I have been asked multiple times what rings i use and my end gaps .
for a stk application use grant or deeves rings i believe they are a ductile ironcast ring
for a street 94mm setup use the cima mahle ring pack they are excellent
for racing swap it out to total seal AP steel top ring either in gapless or conventional.
- my favorite setup is still standard tension oil ring , Zgap childs and Albert 2nd ring and total seal AP steel conventional top ring .
childs and albert are out of business but Bruce walker owns the rights and still makes them ,will need to contact him and see if hes still around .
every time a build or freshen up a motor i always buy 2 of everything so im never stuck .
last time with rings a bought a completely back up set to try .well its time and stuffed them in .
standard tension oil control ring ,standard tension 2nd ring in Napier design and a gapless top AP ring , all total seal .
i cannot comment on this setup until motor comes apart and i can inspect cylinders and piston for wear and blow-by.
i really worry how the gapless top ring effects the sealing of the 2nd ring due to elimination of blow-by pressure from the top ring seating the 2nd ring .
- think of this ,cylinder pressure is what seals the rings against the cylinder wall.so trapping equal pressure on both sides of a ring or between rings
Will cause loss of force pushing the rings outwards against cylinder wall. So, knowing this .top ring gets gapped say at
.024 2nd ring at .028 and oil at .015 .yes top ring takes the heat and closes up a tad but you can see how cylinder pressure moves through
the ring pack sealing the rings against the wall and finally helping blow oil back through the oil control ring



Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on December 22, 2019, 08:01:46 AM
    Cylinder Heads ,everyone make such a big deal ,well there are a big deal because in the end they will be the last component you install that
will gauge you engine performance.there is of course a whole science behind head selection which comes down to strength needed ,valve size and port flow.
so not my area but I understand it .bigger is not always better and you be surprised on how well a small valved head will work .
    My poor beat up Frankenstein heads are on their last legs .and without the skills of Darren K they would be door stops.
but sometimes and in this case its not so easy just to bore and toss another set of heads on as the engine is already built around there dimensions
and its just plain to much work ,but maybe next engine overhaul ill tackle it and swap them out to a set of comp eliminators I have .
  These are the WOK's heads ,they are a set of very old original heavily modified ARPM heads, later they became super flow and then copied by CB performance as comp eliminators.
These ARPM style heads have a very well known issue of being very week in the top corners , so as you can see in order to stiffen them up and give extra support a casing was welded around the
fins as well as bosses welded on for the 6th studs all attempting to give more strength to a weak design.
  Some time ago I had talked with dominic lupino , [sorry for sure wrong spelling] .about a single replacement head stud .
At that time I think he was still owner of Bugpack .I also asked him about the original ARPM heads and he says Jim that's why that version of the ARPM head was scrapped and later replaced with the new super flow stronger version ,as eventually the ARPM heads will flex ,give or something and burn through at the top outer stud ,HMMMM seams I have had this .
Dominic advised me to replace head studs and increase torque so this time went to Racewear custom head studs ,and yes I bought spares !!! just in case .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983718.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 03, 2020, 02:53:00 PM
melted heads 2x yep not pretty both times but lessons learned .
first time not sure why just know it was loud .slid head back and this is what I found ,OUCH.
anyway fixing is 1 part most important is learning why .
at this point worried about ignition and fuel not head issues as was not aware of that at this point .
sent my complete fuel system to Don at Hilborn fuel injection ,for complete inspection and flow data and set-up .
got all my data from Don as well as found out my boost sensor valve failed causing a leant under boost which equals
head melting time .
Yep Darren fixed the Head and with a new set of Bugpack race head studs engine back together to run again .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983705.jpg)
so how do you prevent this well like I said have the data from Don at Hilborn injection of my fuel system.
some of the data is fuel pressure at the barrel valve at specify rpm and boost levels .
having this I new at 6000 rpm and 20 psi boost = 74 psi and at 7000 rpm and 20 lbs boost=79 psi
as well as with no boost =around 50 psi
so simple directly above shifter in a old ashtray I modified and installed a digital fuel pressure display .
sensor of course in engine bay .
so easy every time  I shift into 4th gear a quick glance to make sure im over 70 psi and im good to go
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1986116.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 04, 2020, 12:29:18 PM
   well ,why the second time ? head stud failure or in my case loss of clamping pressure due to
poor maintenance practices or Chinese steel head studs , doesn't matter will not allow this to happen again .
when I pulled the motor and checked , torque on all head studs were all low .
Yep Darren fixed me up yet again ,Thanks Bud !!!
   how about some failure shots
heads studs seam a bit hurt
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983722.jpg)
 yep that's a melt through #2 on #2
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983689.jpg)
Darrens handywork , or in my case miracle dept .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983701.jpg)
  well like I said it was Quest for the 9's  ,all lessons learned ,major repairs done now time for final upgrades and assembly.
plugs have been in and out so many times time to timesert  the 14mm spark plug threads before its too late  .thanks Dave at high performance engines
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983698.jpg)
once installed just double check to make sure the timeserts are not hanging into combustion chamber , if so break out the Dremel
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983716.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: Stephan Schmidt on January 04, 2020, 03:19:48 PM
I love all of your updates Jim! Thanks for posting!
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 05, 2020, 12:35:46 PM
I love all of your updates Jim! Thanks for posting!

Thanks , I know it’s pictures from all over the place and a bit random
But we’ll get the heads done and get to some cool stuff and where it’s at now
In the WOK garage

   Here is something you may of never seen before ,
Need to freshen up your heads at the track , just slide the complete
Aluminum boss and guide out and replace it , pretty trick
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983683.jpg)
Sorry real crapy it’s not that trick but actually a old school way still done
If needed to repair heads that no longer can support overaized valve guides.
Like I said these Frankenstein heads have all the tricks .
   So heads at this point are welded and repaired, spark plug threads repaired.
And valves are all inspected lapped in and tested for position and sealing ,what?
There is no valve rotation anymore . The clamping pressure of the valve keepers
Against the spring retainer and on the valve is so great there is never any real chance of rotation.
Now you know in this picture the valve to valve seat position has been marked .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977250.jpg)

This is the real way to check for valve sealing , this is a shot of my comp eliminators
At Darrens after a quick repair, you can see it’s built up vacuum over 25 inches and
Seals so well you can lift the head off the bench no problem , I do The same at work using my
A/C machines vacuum pump , as well tested and found best position on my heads this way.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983681.jpg)
  Recap , all head repairs performed . Valves guides measured and ok , valve position marked and tested
Spark plug threads and welding and machine work done , time for valve spring upgrade next
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 05, 2020, 07:38:26 PM
   here we go ,Kmotion k800 valve springs ,Raceware head studs valve spring pressure tester and installed spring height micrometer
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1986674.jpg)

the next step was part need to know spring installed height and old spring pressure test
as well as test new spring pressures and adjust spring height .and test possible new spring retainers.
my old spring retainers are getting pretty beat up so I wanted to replace as precaution.
not so easy as like we know my heads are old and so are the valves which are still the 3 groove vw style and not the new
single groove v8 style that everyone uses now.the difference is also the angle of the keeper 7 deg for 3 groove and 10deg for single sure grip style.
well I did find a pair of 8mm /7 deg retainers made for my k800 valve springs made by comp cams , so brought a set in to check.hey never know ?
compcams on the left and my retainers on the right ,crap as you can see big difference on possible installed height but gotta check.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977261.jpg)
   So the data begins ,yep takes time but need to know -measure every installed spring height for all 8 valves to start
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977253.jpg)
   this is where you need to be organized as its easy to screw up .
looks like original installed height on #1 exhaust measure 1.875"
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977254.jpg)
once I had check all original spring heights time to check with the compcam retainers.
data done installed height for both retainers completed
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977252.jpg)

   
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 08, 2020, 08:00:55 PM
— So what does it all mean and why?
In the past always felt as motor seemed to roll over a bit and flat line power wise in the top end back of the track ,could be many many things and hey valve float could be 1 of them .
So that’s why collecting the old valve spring data was very important .
    Now data from Kmotion goes like this ,they do not give you a installed height but a coil bind number ,in my case k800 springs are good for max compression
Of 1.080”and from that add a safety cushion of 0.060” plus your lift say 0.560” add them up and that give me a min installed spring height of 1.700” so I have lots of room
From my old installed height of 1.860” , 0.160” is allot.
     Next I started measuring all my original springs pressures using my spring tester ,into the vice they go , not shown is 2 machine blocks I made
to keep things identical .1 block for original set height of 1.860” and the other block for 1.310” representing my old lift height .so when you tighten the vise pinching the spring against the
spring pressure measuring tool the machined blocks stop the Vise at the same point every time .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1977251.jpg)
  Found some old data I had written down looks like this ,ill say im checking 2 things when I look back at it .
what were the original installed pressures and how bad are the springs worn at installed height and various lifts.
   I see for example my original installed spring height of 1.860” the old springs were 160 lbs and the new spring was 14 lbs stronger at 174lbs
                 OLD                     NEW
1.860"    160 lbs           174 lbs + 14
1.820"    178 lbs           200 lbs + 22
1.320"    394 lbs           439 lbs.+ 45

    Since I new my original valve lift and installed height I could use the chart on the Kmotion site and then compare at my end .
 1.860" right about 160 lbs, ok .minus my old valve lift say .536”= 1.324" so about 410 lbs, a bit weak but with out knowing how old these springs are not bad .
what I changed was this . 
  valve spring installed height shimmed to 1.820"  exhaust  (38mm SS valves )
and 1.800” spring installed height for the intakes (46mm SS valves )

so 1.820" - .550” = about 1.270” = 200lbs installed height and 450lbs  over the nose .
  And for the intakes 1.800” -.550 = about 1.250” = 210lbs installed height and 460lbs over the nose
Yep pressures are up ! Not huge but 40-50lbs is allot ,

Im sure I mentioned this but I removed all the inner springs ,and broke engine in on just the outer springs .
This combined with my previously mentioned break in has always worked for me so will never change .
1 more thingg CC the combustion chambers .down to 26CC's now
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983693.jpg)
Head work done , fresh copper head gaskets and mounting hardware .time to torque them up .
Always great to have my girls help .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1981264.jpg)

I was asked about torque wrenches ,yes I have both digital and clicker style ,both Snap-on and for engine work
I will always use clicker style ,I found it to be more consistant as you use the same speed and motion resulting with a release click .
Where as with the digital it doesn’t click just beep and I find as you approach the torque your pull speed varies to much resulting ion uneven torque .
Great for checking torque and certain things but not head studs
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 08, 2020, 08:12:27 PM
great shot , heads fully torqued and you can see the trick 6th stud nuts , they recess into the heads and centre the 8mm head studs  ,
 again there just pretend now , but they still  look cool .
head studs are left long , great place to attach things ? in the future
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983694.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 08, 2020, 10:34:51 PM
crossed a few more things off the list ,
  i know it was real basic and not allot of detail but it was supposed to be basic with some details tossed in
-guess this is where we are at ,remember this it was i think one of the first photos.
pushrod tubes,pushrods and rockers installed .valve covers going on and2 stage oil pump installed and some other bits .
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F%2F2019%2FIMG_5533.JPG&hash=e1a936f26d9468d0ab5bc03f81f831073f6d2895)
 now we can look at some cooler things .
   
   RECAP: WOK engine quest for the 9's real biggest changes :
     -  turbo exhaust housing and billet inlet wheel
     -  camshaft
     -  headstuds
     -  valve springs
     -  clutch
and all the stuff to make it fit and work
   im always asked so many questions about the engine so figured post up the basics , im not a big brand name dropper but always add
it as someone always wants to know .fyi: the basics of this motor are real OLD school parts ,still going strong .

- ARPM case all type 4 main bearings , center flange conversion and oil modifications
- 88 mm scat flanged crank, 6 doweled
- 5.7" eagle rods, chevy clevlite bearings
- crowler camshaft , scat slr treated lifters
- CE straight cut gear set
- all bearings calico coated
- Pauter 94mm cylinders
- JE pistons
- total seal rings , gapless 1st at present
- ARPM modified heads 38/46mm valves, k800 springs ,heavily repaired and modified
- 10mm raceware headstuds
- manton pushrods
- scat 1.4 rockers with oiling mods
- CE dual groove pulley



- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 10, 2020, 07:15:41 AM
Dry-Sump oiling .
who says can't be done ,not me.
  the main issue in running dry sump oiling in a VW bug is SPACE.
Tube chassis race car , no issue .Steel bodied vw big trouble .
many that try give up and put the Oil tank inside the car ,totally dangerous as having
6-8 litres of 200 deg flammable oil inside a car during a accident could be bad .
  So where to put it ?
2 things need to happen . First find a pump and second find or make a tank .
I also needed a pump that has a fuel pump drive on it .
Ok these are rare now as old school mechanical drive fuel pumps are not used to much anymore .
   I was looking for a Auto-Craft 2 stage pump with drive ,took some time but finally lucked out and found a brand new one from Roger Crawford .!!!!
wow that was like hitting the jackpot .N.O.S.
mounted it on my old mini lathe and broke in the pump for about 1 hour .that sucker moves oil !!!
   It was original very hard to turn , tight ! excellent ,and did loosen up after run in time .wanted to get any debris out of pump.
I did premeasure and had room for the extended length of the pump as well was lucky the drive cleared as well, just needed to
change direction of my hilborn MFI pump and add some new mounting holes .
oil lines well a issue
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1983696.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 12, 2020, 05:20:32 PM
  Pump , check.
now that I had it in my hands it was time for the tank .
I managed to find a small dragster tank from Peterson fluids .
after a phone call I received the PDF of the tank and made a cardboard mock up .
well looks like it might fit ,its tight but with a bit of thinking should work out.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1988459.jpg)
  ordered tank with heater and got my fitting installed ,also made a poor boys site glass from some teflon tube ,works very well for watching the oil level
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1988466.jpg)
mounting brackets installed
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1988467.jpg)
and tank in no problem
  Space was very tight and I used a combo of special AN fittings , since AN-!2 line is not the most flexible it take a bit more outa the box thinking.
But it all worked out .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1988463.jpg)
  now since this photos the tank again has been modified with some additional fittings .
bungs for additional temp sensors ,better location for site glass tube ,magnet holder and most important inlet from vacuum pump - oil in and out are
an-12 , breathers are an-16 ,oil pump prelude an-8
now that I don't have this massive 4" deep sump hanging from the bottom of the engine I also got from Roger a brand new
Auto-craft drysump pick up ,found this pic on the net .
uses a AN-10 to the suction side of the 2 stage pump
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1988469.jpg)
out of the pump same setup AN-8 oil lines .

I was asked why dry sump ?well its real cool ,na more than that , like I had mentioned im all about crankcase pressure/blowby control .
over the years I have blown my share of oil onto the track surface and finally never wanted to be that guy again .
    pretty easy .no oil in the motor , no oil to leak as well as less crankcase pressure as you just free'd up space in the motor that
was taken up by engine oil and never have to worry about a consistant oil supply under the hardest acceleration .
no brainer.
also combine it with a vacuum pump and its unmatchable .this combo is with out a doubt the best thing I have done .

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 12, 2020, 05:22:15 PM
 single and dual clutch combo's

- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few off already
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 13, 2020, 01:28:52 PM
-  i have run allot of clutches , really every time i pulled my motor i would try something new .
Single setups this is what worked and survived ; Kennedy pressure plates in both the standard and aluminum shoe stage #2
combined with either the Cooperhead disc or Daikin disc - both worked excellent and for me i would give the Cooperhead the nod
over the Daikin for a bit more abuse at the track and say the Daikin for aggressive street use .
  And same setup for milder engines with a stage #1 pressure plate would be fine .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 14, 2020, 01:30:47 PM
Dual disc clutch setups .
   Why? for many there is really only 1 main reason but for me 2 reasons .
1st -is the ability for the clutch to hold more power by doubling the surface area ,makes sense for higher horse power cars .
2nd - and equally important for me is the ability for the clutch to take more heat caused by slipping controlled by my D.I.P  electronic clutch management controller (ECMC) 
allowing for smooth and controlled launches while saving that important ring gear . Clutch Management is a topic for discussion on its own, well get there soon.

  there are some things that need to be understood with using any clutch system , its the weight of the clutch discs being accelerated or decelerated by the syncro's in the
transmission as well as shifting or engagement speed  . yes, gear oil is very  important to allow the correct amount of slip and friction to allow for correct operation .
  my transaxle uses standard syncros so you can see why this is very important for me .
Also not many know this but all i have ever used in my car is the original 100% Stock shifter , no fancy unit in there but Stock .Why , obviously to keep my engagement shift speed down
and save my syncros , trust me i still was shifting at times quite fast but smooth .

   OIL--quickly on that again , i have tried many gear oils and there are some i like better that others . but again this stuff is unbelievable , trust me . USE IT .
I have been sponsored by Lucus oil for years now ,but one thing they haven't been able to supply is a transaxle oil .
a little leg work and I have found the perfect product .100% WOK certified as the stuff to use .
like I was saying no wear in my transaxle !!,this is nuts I cannot tell you how much abuse and passes this unit has put up with .
 this oil does what it says it does .USE IT if you want your gearbox to live and shift like there's no tomorrow.
click torco and read up on it ,you'll see why  .
TORCO (https://torcousa.com/collections/professional-transmission-gear-oils/products/racing-transmission-fluid)

   This is the first Dual clutch i used , ya did not survive , and did not like to slip and was very noisy
Its a Tilton dual disc setup and you can see in this picture ( from flywheel looking up to pressure plate )
the amount of warp and areas of no contact , would i recommend this clutch , Yes but not for a slipping application but maybe a on/off race application , not slip and drag  .
the weight of both tilton discs is less than most single discs , so shift speed can be very fast , due to the syncros ability to slow or accelerate the discs quickly between shifts .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989401.jpg)





 
 
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 14, 2020, 03:18:43 PM
  Now here is a absolute work horse of a dual clutch !!!
this is the Kennedy dual disc clutch , plus used only a stage#1 pressure plate , yep who says you need a stage #2 all the time .
its all about matching components and adjusting clamping pressures , if i remember i shimmed the pressure plate with 0.030" washers
to gain another few lbs face pressure . smooth as butter , easy pedal pressure and holds like a vise grip when needed . if i was going to use it again
only and only because i was upping potential motor output i would of replaced the pressure plate with a stage #2 .
i have put 100's of passes on this clutch , 100's of hard launches and quite a few street miles on it .
from the flywheel looking up to pressure plate .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989399.jpg)
and from the pressure plate looking down to the flywheel
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989398.jpg)
check out the floater still flat , nice colors but you can see the slip marks .
these are not a issue and even thoe the motors been in and out and apart multyple times i never touched the clutch at all .
if its flat dont mess with it !!! if its holding dont mess with it !!!
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989397.jpg)
the notches machined into the flywheel are to support and lock the floater plate between the discs .
again still flat and lots slip heat check markes , also this is a 6 bolt , 6 dowel flandged flywheel .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989400.jpg)

   
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 15, 2020, 01:33:20 PM
    So if the Kennedy dual disc worked so good and for so long and still has tons of life in it why change ?
i noticed my transaxle was becoming a bit notchy , not miss a shift or grinding notchy  just notchy feeling .
so since i was making a 4th gear change  a closer inspection showed the syncros were slightly bent so they would not sit evenly on the syncroniser cone .
of course they were replaced , But what caused this .
   I already new the only real down-point  is the weight of the Kennedy 2 discs , there are full size 200 mm discs and  each one weighs more than a stock disc .
so put 2 heavy large diameter discs in there and those poor syncros need to work very hard accelerating and decelerating the mass of 2 heavy discs .and because of that
they took a bit of a small beating . now remember the Kennedy clutch has been in there for years of abuse ,so syncro issues after hundreds of passes and hard accelerating shift , no big deal .
would say to be expected at some point .
  SO moving fwd still with the plan into the 9's requires so many small things to come together and another piece is spend less time easy cautious shifting and not accelerating .
But get into the next gear quicker and back to accelerating . this should also do something else . by shifting quicker and getting back on the throttle should help keep the car
more stable between shifts as the car will not unload and reload the rear suspension .
 Out with my old Stock shifter and in with a new prototype shifter "night-stick select from wolfgang ent " this is a unit i have been helping Steve perfect and
yes will be able to dial-in my shiftspeed/reduction , more on this shifter later .
  Clutch choice that will still hold the poewer i make and take the heat and abuse of slipping and allow for rapid shifting with a syncro gear box
Ron Lummus REV6 is the choice .

 
   
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989414.jpg)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 16, 2020, 03:05:42 PM
  Advantages , well there are quite a few .
- Ron sets up the initial assembly from his knowledge base and sets the shim height and selects the combination of discs and pressure plate springs
- Rons help at any time , unbelievably fantastic assistance !!!
-3 different clutch disc combos : aggressive/slippy/50/50 aggressive slippy
-3 different pressure plate spring tensions  : light / medium / hard
-adjustable initial slip by setting shim height changing pull down leverage point
- centrifugal weights to help apply more clutch clamping under high rpm
- small 6" diameter clutch disc for extremely quick shifting due to smaller diameter and weight  of the rotating clutch mass.
ability to take huge amounts of heat through use of clutch disc material as well as very thick floater , pressure plate and flywheel surface .
  not bad at all !!!
LETS TAKE A LOOK , as arrived and after track/street abuse .
above picture is as arrived , now pulling it apart to inspect
   12 point arp nuts removed and pulled the clutch cover off, this is what holds 1 of the 3 available pressure plate springs , mines a Medium.
mine has 3 centrifugal weights
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989413.jpg)
pressure plate , this is what the pressure plate spring pushes against on 1 side and the other against the top disc  , basically a special top floater
its held from rotating by the 6 indexing lugs in the pressure plate spring
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989412.jpg)
top disc is a 50/50 combo . half aggressive and half slippy
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989409.jpg)
under the top disc is the centre floater ,held from spinning by the 6 aluminum posts
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989408.jpg)
bottom disc , see how small that unit is compared to a standard  almost 8" vw clutch disc
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989407.jpg)
my bottom disc is a aggressive
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989406.jpg)
and finally my 6 bolt , 6 at  8mm dowel flywheel , not lightened and weighs the same as a standard vw flywheel
also now you can see the 6 aluminum post very well and the shimming washers to set pull down height are bellow those , i had 13 shims at 10 thou each
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989405.jpg)

   



Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 16, 2020, 06:00:38 PM
  So how did the REV6 perform ?
very very well , it performed just as it was designed to do. held under full boost ,took massive amounts of heat from slipping ,
allowed me to shift very fast and smooth .
would I recommend this unit , Yes I would .there are single and dual disc versions as well as a full street version now ,well looking into
check out Rons products they are excellent quality and support
https://ronlummusracing.com (https://ronlummusracing.com)
  Now ,like any component there is never a install it and never touch it deal ,everything need adjustment .Ron does a excellent job reviewing your data
and building the clutch tailored to your needs . the only thing I found outa the box was that I could use a tad more slip as it was a hair to aggressive
for me ,this is due to mostly the way I drive ,im not a dump it kinda guy but a more easy out the pedal guy ,that makes a big difference to clutch set up.
I was used to a very controlled long gentle slip using my ECMS controller and Kennedy clutch ,so this was a bit of a learning curve using a Clutch
designed for use without any form of clutch management . this applied power to my rear wheels a lot sooner forcing my back end to plant hard against my shock stops .
   After breaking in the clutch as per Rons instructions and doing some testing at mission ,making suspension ,shocks and tire adjustments it was now performing
very well but still a bit aggressive ,so I reconnected my ECMS and added some timed and controlled slip .Wow now I could see I was heading in the right direction .
  After talking with Ron it was time to remove the engine ,inspect the clutch and make adjustments .
this is the time now that the motor was out again to modify the exhaust turbo housing and exhaust and make the new intake .Clutch looked good and photos sent to Ron.
  Now my clutch was originally adjusted to .080" pulldown that was changed to .100" pulldown .this will now allow more initial clutch slip before full engagement .
lets see how its held up .
  Flywheel , you can see the shims under the aluminum stands , lots of clutch dust in the slots and lots of heat slip check marks .
shows the clutch is working hard and there is some slip ,and good contact
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989394.jpg)
  backside of the  floater , again good contact .,slip and check marks, sucker is taking heat .
between the flywheel and the backside of first floater is the aggressive disc .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989393.jpg)
top side of floater , big difference this is where the 50/50 disc is sandwiched ,wow big difference ,longer slip marks as well
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989392.jpg)
backside of pressure plate , again long slip marks but less heat generated
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1989391.jpg)
  Very interesting to see the difference between the 2 disc and the contact surfaces . the thing works !
talked with Ron the other day and will send the complete unit down for inspection and refresh
  more on this clutch and how I abused it testing my ECMS later on
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 17, 2020, 05:56:31 PM
 Quest for the 9's list
When I start going through this it was really a lot of work ,so many little things but all important .
 looks like the meat and potatoes are done :
.Trans inspected and new synchros and 1.00 4th gear
.Turbo repaired and upgraded with a billet inlet wheel and new exhaust housing ,header pipe fabricated
.New camshaft ,shorter duration more lift
.Engine inspected and overhauled
.k800 valve spring inspected and installed and readjusted
.EGT probes installed
.New REV6 clutch in ,tested and adjusted
.New intake fabricated
.Drysump oiling , done previously

I guess the last thing to talk about before some cool fun stuff is my vacuum pump system ,everyone asked , even from around the Globe I still
get e-mails and questions , so guess this is next .
- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few more off now
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 17, 2020, 05:58:04 PM
  Vacuum pump and why not crankcase ventilation : hugely important topic lots of progression pictures , need to edit them a bit ,will take some time .
and again if you have a question or comment post it up , just dont always e-mail me .

  So for fun ,
  Had a few people e-mail me about my ECMS - Yes it works very well  .
But until i test final version with a few more bells and whistles it'll have to wait but, will get info up soon with data and video of both with and without controller.
   but does it work , Yep here is the proof 
this is the 3rd pass testing at mission with the ECMS set-up with REV 6 clutch , night-stick select ,16 psi in tires , 14-15 lbs boost
 1.404_ 60' (https://youtu.be/drmB_UcNJMs)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 25, 2020, 10:08:18 AM
      here is the typical or close to typical set-up .#1
cheapo breather box and vent lines from both valve covers ,fuel pump port as well as a small k@n on the generator stand .
does it work ? yes and no .
  What did i learn from this ,oil will take the path of least resistance .and more vents is not always better.
This is where i really started to learn about crankcase breathing issues and actually making it worse .
!! using too small I.D lines is a big no no .more vents don't mean success.
  oil would push up the valve cover hoses and fuel pump port and i see now i have one more line which is a
oil drain from the vent box to the alternator stand ,you can see that fitting bellow the k@n on the alt stand .
and overflow it . basically the system caused hi and low pressure spots causing oil to move and push everywhere ,BAD
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1993860.png)

  Progression time #2
  Looks like i decided to separate the oil from the crankcase pressure and added a Berg breather system .
still venting valve covers but this time eliminated the fuel pump inlet to the breather box and put the drain tube from
the breather box into a water bottle .
 the Berg breather has 2 ports which are to be used for valve cover vents but looks like a used one for the fuel pump port and the other into a bottle .
Why into clear bottles ? that was to measure the amount of oil that was being moved .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1993857.jpg)

progression#3
  looks like im finally learning something ,but not that smart yet
Crankcase venting is the KEY so dedicated AN-12 vent to a dedicated breather tank ,used the Berg system still to vent the valve covers and i installed a restriction
on the alternator stand to Berg breather so basically 90% of the crankcase pressure goes through the fuel pump port leaving the Berg unit to vent the valve covers  .
but still moving oil ? why .not quite there yet
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1993858.png)

progression #4
   I did so much testing between every system i cant even begin to tell you .i was still amazed at how much oil would move up and through the fuel pump port .i had
installed a long clear hose onto the port and ran the motor ,bingo !! at like 3500 rpm oil would just fill and flow up the clear line .made no sense at the time but eventually figure it out .
  Now i was learning about oil movement ,  without the fuel pump guide plate installed in the engine case , that port ends up getting flung with full oil coming whipping off the crank/cam gear. So add high air movement up the tube and bingo major issue .so looks like i finally figure it out .take the venting crankcase fumes from the other side of the cam gear and hey looks like VW figured that out with a oil deflector plate and internal webbing .ditched the Berg breather and plugged the oil filler port as well as added another vent off the #1@2 valve cover only .
 the #3@4 fills with oil very quickly from oil flung from rotating crankshaft , so i added drains from the bottom of both heads to my oil sump to help .
did this system work . yes if i remember it did but was not exactly what i wanted .much more testing ,baffling,testing lines and positions and i had it beat .
now i dont have a photo but i had connected 1" hose only to the alternator stand outlet and into a large container .bottom line was the larger line allowed the crankcase fumes to slow down and allowed the oil to drop out of suspension HMMMM no we have it 
  SO what to do and not do , thats next
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1993859.png)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 30, 2020, 03:52:47 PM
how about some fun from years ago  ,surrrrre why not
   ok doesnt happen often , how about 5 vw out for a drive.
 question #1
i have a prize for who ever can name who at that time owned and drove those 5 cars?
 question#2
i believe 4 of the 5 were featured in hot VW's , which were they
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995755.jpg)
 how about some old race shots, surrrre why not
Alan testing that ring and pinion
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995752.jpg)
darren getting ready to stage
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995751.jpg)
yep even James B was out getting it done
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995750.jpg)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 30, 2020, 04:23:59 PM
So what and what not to do ,this is what i recommend .
#1~ ring seal ring seal ring seal - get the cylinders round .
#2 ~vent only from the alternator stand with a min 1" hose with a large box mounted as high as possible.
#3~ run a vacuum pump ,will always run one to many advantages not to run one.
not looking for a pissing match and yes i know there are many ways but this is what i know works without issue.
  FYI: i have run my car with and without a vacuum pump .also i log crankcase vacuum/pressure ,and yes there is no crankcase
pressure when run without the vacuum pump , why good ring seal and the case is well ported ,has no oil in it and most important
is able to breathe freely without restriction .
  SO why change it if it works so good , well because you can always make things better . i started experimenting with elimination of breathers
and only running a vacuum pump ,and yes i had issues but instantly fixed my major issues .
  my biggest issues were blowing oil on decel , oil leaks and overflowing breather tanks .
VACUUM pump begins now
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995761.jpg)
  this was my first set-up ,very basic , nitrous engine with GZ motorsports sportsman pump .
pulley is from the good guys at CE / competition engineering. engine is fully sealed ,  circled in yellow is the vacuum control valve which is basically a controlled vacuum leak
used to regulate max crankcase vacuum ,in this set-up i tapped and baffled a alternator stand which following the red line feeds the pump and yellow is out to the breather tank mounted beside trans on passenger side
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995757.jpg)
  Did it work yes very well actually 2 well and i would draw basically 1/2 litre of oil every pass .BUT ! no more oil leaks,blowing oil everywhere and decell issue .
time to make it better , what did i do . modified my baffles in the alt stand and made a cool custom oil separator tank in between the alternator outlet and inlet to the vacuum pump,
will show that later ,this now used the principle of large 1" I.D hose and a high mounted oil separator tank then feeding the vaccum pump .this setup got rid of 90% of the oil in the low mounted breather tank ,very happy .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on January 30, 2020, 06:42:51 PM
focus here on the oil separation tank . this is what was talking about and added to the above nitrous engine .
red line out from engine and to bottom of tank ,yellow line out from tank and into vacuum pump and blue outa vacuum pump and into breather tank.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995779.jpg)
 Turbo time ,yep time to unleash the Boozer motor .vacuum system worked so good must be ok for a 2442 cc,MFI , methanol, turbo ,WET sump motor .
well yes and no , i see in this photo im progressing slowly along the vacuum evolution chain and have eliminated the vacuum control valve .
why  because my vacuum pump could not keep up with the higher crankcase pressure ,quite common when burning methanol ,running MFI and a very rich mixture.
this is where the vacuum pump shines , we all hear that alcohol /methanol motors milk the oil due to oil saturation , no imagine a vacuum pump sucking those
fumes out and away so best of both worlds - clean oil and no oil leaks !!
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995778.jpg)
  So time for a bigger vacuum pump enter the GZ motorsport 102 ,  as well added a new more precise vacuum control valve
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995781.jpg)
  This unit bolted right up to my old mount and just needed some new 1" hose .wow this thing worked i could pull 10 inches easily from idle
and all the way down the track .BUT it worked so good was moving oil again so modified the case and alt stand with some baffles to
help control oil mist .
 double vw baffle in the alt stand
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995782.jpg)
and a additional oil deflector in the case
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1995783.jpg)
  This help allot so what have i learned .
- if there is a small airleak anywhere in the motor it will cause air movement withing the case picking up oil along the way .
so test and make sure you are leak free .that is done by pressuring the motor with about 1-2 psi and soapy bubbles everywhere .
my leak was at the distributor, nuts sealed that up quick .
 So what next , Easy dont want to move oil in the system .DRY SUMP IT .
now that was covered a bit earlier but know i was able to get rid of the 4" sump below the engine and gain some clearance
as well as get rid of close to 6 litres of oil in the motor , that frees up case internal volume ,with the addition of the DRY sump system i was seeing light at the end of the tunnel .





Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: owdlvr on February 03, 2020, 05:53:24 PM
Love it!

...Though, I'm a little jealous of your pump score. I need to find a replacement for my pump after 280,000kms.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 09, 2020, 02:54:41 PM
Love it!
 
...Though, I'm a little jealous of your pump score. I need to find a replacement for my pump after 280,000kms.

I’ll keep my eye open Dave ,i have a contact that may be sitting on a pump or two will see what his plans are .
 
      OK , Dry-Sump tank is in ,time for the ultimate set-up .now that i can see the light at the end of the crankcase/oil combo tunnel !!!
  I did ended up running 3 set-ups, each 1 progressing after the next due to a small issue ,lets look .
  First step was to modify the Dry-Sump tank,
With the tank out a vacuum inlet pipe (RED line) was added to mirror the existing AN-12 line oil inlet pipe  (blue fitting).
  The air inlet is 1" ID of course and twins the oil inlet from the scavenge section of the Dry-Sump pump.
This works great as the oil entering the tank and the crankcase fumes and oil mist from the vacuum pump mix and swirl in the top of the tank together in the same direction .
  Tank breathing  ( blue line ) goes and up to my repositioned remote breather tank .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1998946.png)
   From the breather tank i have a small clear 3/8 line that runs down and connects to a petcock ahead of the right rear wheel so i can drain off anything collected in the breather tank and monitor both oil or methanol collection .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1997853.jpg)
  Some info - all my breather lines are 1" I.D!! As well as fittings are modified AN-16 fittings with the I.D bored out to min 1" I.D.
- all lines run uphill when needed to promote oil separation as well as downhill as needed to not allow oil or methanol to puddle !!
you can see the big advantage now , i completely separate and remove all the methanol raw or fumes from my oil leaving it in clean condition !! Nice no oil milking.
 -Does the Dry-Sump tank with Vacuum pump setup work YES i was pleased as hell , well almost all issues solved ,but I’m never really that happy as it can always be better .
FYI: my Dry-Sump tank incorporates these standard items - oil inlet and outlet- tank breather outlet 1500w tank oil heater.
- MY added items are: oil level site tube, 1" I.D vacuum pump inlet, AN-8 oil pre-lube pump outlet, cow magnet holder, modified oil drain outlet, oil temp bung.
 
 - First setup went like this, Vacuum pump to Dry-Sump tank, Dry sump tank venting to remote breather, regulated with a GZ vacuum regulator valve.
 

Super basic (nice pulley Cameron!) and yes it worked very well, But i started having engine oil spitting out of the
Crankcase vacuum regulator valve (circle in yellow)
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1998943.png)
   - Time for data review, what i found was under high boost i would actually start losing crankcase vacuum and start going into positive pressure.
Oh know what to do.?
Step#1, change pulley sizes to start:
  You will probably notice there has been different pulley‘s in past photos, so it kind of goes like this, I started by switching to a higher volume GZ vacuum pump .which means it has the ability to pulley more volume sooner as well as longer .
Now the good Guys at GZ motorsports, super great to deal with. recommend a max pump RPM of  say 6000 rpm  but can spin higher for short times if needed.
So my CE lower pulley has a diameter of 3.25" so this is how it looks
3.25 with 5.5" pump pulley at 6500 rpm =3850 rpm
3.25 with 4.5" pump pulley at 6500 rpm =4700 rpm
So you can see i was not at the time getting anywhere close to the 6000 pump RPM .and max pump pull.
  Yep Cameron to the rescue and machined me a sweet 3.5" custom pulley .
3.25 with 3.5" pump pulley at 6500 rpm =6035 rpm
This made a massive change, spinning the GZ pump faster at engine idle around 900 rpm  would pull about 10 inches and in 4th gear ,6500 rpm , 16 lbs boost still be around 5 inches crankcase vacuum .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1999066.jpg)
Not bad at all!!! i figured I have got it! But still would spit oil out of the case vacuum valve (FYI: the crankcase vacuum valve is just a controlled vacuum that opens at a set vacuum thus regulating max crankcase vacuum).
- after looking very closely at my data in between shift i could get a crankcase pressure spike to positive as well as during odd time of tuning a very excessive rich mixture ect it was
Easily possible to go positive pressure, hey add some cylinder and ring wear from real rich methanol mixture, equaling more blow-by , dialing in engine timing and  mixture etc did not help the positive crankcase pressure which resulted in oil spitting out the relief vacuum valve .SO?
What to do? Yep Nothing.  nature of the beast running a large cc boosted motor adding MFI, and burning Methanol = Normal ,BUT i learned something .help fine tune by  what ended up in the breather tank and add that to my overall tuning plan  , so if there is a lot of methanol in the breather tank Means, figured out why you’re not burning it , get it .burning fuel is power .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1999044.jpg)

 
 
 

Version#2 – exactly the same as version#1  , Except  with the addition of a GZ motorsports crankcase pressure blow-off valve. Now this unit was originally designed to be used as a backup for engine failure, meaning say on a boosted motor you blow a piston you could then potentially pressurize the crankcase and in turn that would push all your engine oil up and out your valve cover breather, so this unit will hold 2 psi and if the pressure passes 2 psi opens and dumps into a tank with the min capacity of your engine total oil quantity, smart and nhra required in some classes .
  I purchased the Blow off valve and modified the spring to allow it to pop off the seat a hair over ½ psi and plumbed that to a larger 3 quart tank tucked up in the right side of the engine bay.
Now if at any time my motor see’s positive pressure the blow off valve will open releasing the pressure, into the tank .just have to test it.
Bingo at the Track and after every pass I would check my data ,there was ZERO positive crankcase pressure shown -- ,problem fixed and worked like a charm , time for the last and final modification .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1998941.png)


Version #3 – what did I learn – no need for the vacuum control valve , the engine and vacuum system work perfect together so in the end the valve was only really controlling idle and light partial load so gone . Removed  the Blow off valve from the not best spot  fuel pump location and install it in better baffled location in place of the vacuum control valve. And made a nice little adapter that allowed me to “ T ” the blow off valve into the output line from the vacuum pump going into the Dry-Sump tank .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1998942.png)

SO now you have it one last thing to add. I have tested and ran the car down the track WITHOUT the vacuum pump and just connected the vacuum pump oulet hose goin to the Dry-Sump tank directly to the alternator stand outlet and no problem , works just as good and Zero crankcase pressure ,the vacuum pump just is the icing on the cake
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 10, 2020, 07:18:25 PM
Quest for the 9's list :
- WELL pretty simple just needed to make a few small engine changes ,LOL .
you can see there has always been a constant direction with everything slowly moved fwd
toward building and tuning a Old School turbo motor but adding a few tricks.over time this power plant  has taken more abuse than you could
ever imagine and has been very reliable and a consistent performer ,This engine is still capable of easily putting out another
75-100 hp but for the time being i will just fine tune the state of tune im at now, making it more efficient
and Finnish Dialing-In the details .
  There is more than just having a motor than can put out some jam there needs to be a balance and the whole car needs
to work together , it just takes time.
presently the WOK is undergoing some upgrades again and will bring those up later .
 But will look at the list and think about what to bring up next.

 

.Trans inspected and new synchros and 1.00 4th gear
.Turbo repaired and upgraded with a billet inlet wheel and new exhaust housing ,header pipe fabricated
.New camshaft ,shorter duration more lift
.Engine inspected and overhauled
.k800 valve spring inspected and installed and readjusted
.EGT probes installed
.New REV6 clutch in ,tested and adjusted
.New intake fabricated
.Drysump oiling , done previously


- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few more off now
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 11, 2020, 01:40:11 PM
 lets make it stable : stock ,slightly modified or really pushing it there are lessons for all here.

  There were many time at higher speed the WOK would wander usually to the right and sometimes quite abruptly.
I assumed I was just getting out of the groove and most of the time I could catch it slowly easy it back over .
 Remember Im traveling way over 130mph and accelerating quite fast at that point so an easy touch was required .
Sometimes it would work out ok and other times just not ,regardless it could be a tad hairy and or plain scary.
 So stability was defiantly high on my list of things to get handled .
 I don’t know exactly at what point things seamed to get a bit to loose for comfort but must admit it was starting to worry me as rate of acceleration was increasing fast .
  There is a lot to be said for seat of the pants , and this is what i would feel at times -launch rough bouncy ,- slipping sideways feeling, -pulling right while accelerating ,-
High speed wandering-,back end bouncy , - instability while accelerating hard .
 I started by watching and rewatched all my in car ,private and posted videos ,slowing them down and started breaking them down into groups and making notes as I went along.
GROUPS: seamed to keep falling into something like this:
  Burnout and stage — Launch —between shifts— after shift acceleration — high speed stability — and finally deceleration and off throttle .
I was amazed when I really focussed on 1 item at a time and picked it out multiple time over many videos .
  I guess the best way to do this is put up some videos of what I was seeing and then show what was done to correct the issues .
- Burnout
 This I have nailed down quite well . I played with 2 ways and this being my standard  , stop in water box , linloc frt wheels , pull up on staging brake - car in 2nd gear and bring revs up and dump the clutch , as soon as I would feel the car pushing fwd I would roll on more throttle and release lineloc and proceed up to staging area while keeping WOK in the groove . 2nd method was stop in water box , up on staging brake , 3rd gear , revs up and dump clutch and let car come out of water box on its own, stopped  this as there
Was no need , did not like backing up if I passed staging lights and 2 easy to miss the launch groove , looked cool but accomplished nothing .
 With the first method I could way easier control tire heat , works so stick with it .
Take a look , no issues there so onto the next group -LAUNCH-
   
 BURNOUT (https://youtu.be/B3tbPa5YtOg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 20, 2020, 07:45:49 PM
                 - LAUNCH-
   I have 2 great video clips to look at ,

    YEP , this is where it all seams to matters ,you have staged and set both double yellow bulbs ,nerves are high , you’re thinking about everything you need to do to make it happen , everyones watching ,cameras are ready and then its time .3 yellows flash and then Green lamp and go !!!!
    Well if you have it Dialed-In and everything goes as planned you will take off in great style and most of the time the balance of the pass goes just as smooth .
Unfortunately, more times than not , things just don’t go as well as you were dreaming they would  ,launch does not go as planned and the balance of the pass falls apart and its back to the trailer to think about it. .
Yep lived it 100’s of times , but glad to say I’m in the positive side more than in the past and have also figured out how to salvage a pass when the launch does not pan out as planned.
   When looking at both these YouTube videos open the link go to the settings in the lower right and SLOW it down to 1/2 speed or less and you will see
What I was focussing on .watch closely , the - launch - between shifts- acceleration after shift .
   This first video is everything going wrong and you need to keep watching it over and over focussing on the launch and 1-2 shift and acceleration.
What do I quickly notice ; back of car drops and plants hard,- power applied fast and keeps banging rear suspension of rear suspension stops ,frt end drops and lifts and drops — 1-2 shift ,back of car lifts and then as power is reapplied
Again bangs down onto the stops followed by a constant bouncing up/down cycling motion down the track .you can see where this sets the tone for things going poorly the rest of the pass.
LAUNCH WOK GOING BAD (https://youtu.be/KIYr0HdkTNQ)
   This second video ( thanks Ron Lummus snipped from his online shop tour YouTube video) is really good as well .
What do I see .obviously the car closest to you is getting it done , clutch ,tires and suspension are working together and the car plants and transfers weight nicely with just the right amount of wheel spin and accelerates away quickly.
  BUT!! Watch more closely the brown car in the other lane , hmmm seams to ring a bell .car plants hard , rear suspension is loading hard and unloading ,frt wheels drop and obvious no good weight transfer .
LAUNCH GOOD AND BAD (https://youtu.be/p-0At2MOH90)
  Yep there is more , getting the launch together and just need to Finnish off with the top end stability issue and everything in between .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 22, 2020, 05:14:09 PM
                - ALL GOOD BUT , TOP END WANDER -
 
      Well let me think which way to go ,ok let’s use this video clip ,This video clip has it all . Some items previously talked about and ending with a bit of top end drift but,
More important it shows everything coming together !! - Burnout - staying in the groove - staging - launch —between shifts— after shift acceleration .
  Slow it down,  watch it and break it into the Groups I mentioned ,Things are coming together and it shows when you are willing to take all the steps , figure it out and put it all together good things can happen .
Later we can look at and discuss what individual changes were made from the earlier launch video example to get to this launch video example .
  Burnout and stage smooth , launch very smooth and controlled and rear suspension working very well , rear suspension not banging down hard against stops , shifts controlled with no crazy up and down motion, no more excessive suspension
Up and down oscillation down the track — BUT,  again watch at the end for the slight wander to the right !!

      Some notes on this clip :
#1— when the camera pans to the engine about 7 sec mark ,pause it and you can get a real good shot of the vacuum hose layout previously discussed.
#2 — A little inside scoop on this video ,and will bring it up later on as well as its a topic upon itself ,this was the 3rd pass of the day ,and also the first time I was using a prototype shifter I just bolted in .
I have been helping my Good friend , Steve Phillips ,owner of Wolfgang international -     https://wolfgangint.com        taking his Nightstick shifter to a new crazy level .im so excited but more later and spy shots .
#3 — As mentioned this was the 3rd pass with the main focus on working on my ECMS controller and also the first time I have run with the deckled on in along time , never opened it once and only changes made after the first 2 passes were rear shock adjustment and from my drivers seat Clutch management settings on my ECMS controller ,very cool —
#4 — fun facts , who needs wheelie bars when you can just use your race bullet muffler

Quick plug - the video clip was taken from a super nice guy we met at the track he sent me some links and personal videos he has taken
This is a link for a great video he put together that day ,check out all his stuff , nice someone takes the time to do cool things these days .     

 WOK 1.404 REVIEWED (https://youtu.be/lfwflNp4pSg)

I think I mighty of posted this up before , but fun video as its the inside shot of the exact run , you can see the use of the staging brake and count the gears as we go .
Watch the steering wheel and you can see in 4th im just slightly holding a tad more pressure to the left

 INSIDE VIEW 1.404 REVIEWED (https://youtu.be/_xdIfolHzVo)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on February 25, 2020, 11:00:24 PM
 

                          Burnout and stage — Launch —between shifts— after shift acceleration — high speed stability — and finally deceleration and off throttle .
    Well ,we have reviewed all 6 groups, looked at the issues .Got a hair off track but, Where did it start and what did I do moving forward.
One last video clip and then it begins . This is one of the  runs before I started with upgrades , clutch system ECMS was operating 100% bang on allowing for a very smooth and controlled launch.
But look close , suspension was still squatting hard and bouncing down the track ,shifting was slow but overall not bad .
   At this time I was running , 28mm torsion bars , QA1 dual adjustable rear shocks ,competition engineering 3 way adjustable frt shocks  and a Kennedy dual disc clutch with a stage#1pressure plate
 as well as my first version ECMS clutch management controller and stk shifter .
                    KENNEDY DUAL DISC LAUNCH (https://youtu.be/-2nfx9KH0qI)  link fixed now

    So what did I change and why ?,and then how did it set me back ?and how did we move fwd going a step at a time .?
First was replacement of the clutch from the Kennedy dual disc to the Ron Lummus REV6 dual disc ,why?
    The Kennedy was so smooth on take off and took more abuse than I could throw at it as well as held all the power I was putting at it But, because of disc weight I needed to shift way slower to
Allow the synchros to work smoothly but, even with that they eventually required replacement due to warping .
    So I was kind of thinking that I would be able to accomplish a lot more with the Clutch swap to the REV6 .
I was figuring I would still have a very smooth launch with the REV6 , shift speed could now increase due to the small diameter of the discs which would help by not allowing vehicle to unload and reload so much between gears, and this should also
Help with high speed stability as the faster shifts again will not allow the suspension to fully unload in the higher gears as well hopefully resulting in stability .
   Yes made total sense to me but ya ,NO.
2 steps fwd 1 step back .yes the design of the clutch allowed for way faster shifting ,and yes did help settle the car in-between shifts and then accelerating ,and very important held the power ,so on the right track there !!
But as we seen earlier , the launch went from smooth to very aggressive.
   All data sent to Ron Lummus for review . Ron and myself discussed many options and agreed 1 step at a time approach also my ECMS was disconnected as requested earlier  .next step will be to allow more initial clutch slip and monitor holding power and stiffen back of car to take the shock of launch and better control weight of car .
Engine pulled out for clutch adjustment and reset for more initial slip on launch and at the same time swap the 28mm torsion bars for 30mm torsion bars .
  Now after resetting ride height and engine with adjusted clutch back in it was time to retest .clutch was smoother and I did raise RPM as well which added some more needed clutch and tire spin .the 30mm bars made a big difference
As the car just did not bottom so quickly ,the 30mm bars took more of the load than I thought .BUT something else became even worse .even with my QA1 shocks set to max 32 clicks on compression and rebound they could
Not control the weight of the car as well as control the new 30mm bars .Ron sent me to his shock expert in SoCal for advice and looks like I was at the limit , YEP QA1 Shocks are not revalvable and I needed 25% min more .So swapped out the
Shocks to a set of Rons purpose builds dual adjustable Strange engineering shocks ,and yes these are 100% revalvable to what ever you want ,but Ron has already put the work into them so they are dam close for a VW.
 8 clicks each compression and rebound and I’m at 6 clicks , each click is quite allot firmer .
Now one other thing I had forgotten to mention is I did replace the frt shocks earlier in the year to a set of QA1 dual adjustable in the frt .these are great and work excellent, more on those later .
  SO ! Now we are back to this video , 3rd pass out at mission .Clutch readjusted , RPM up 500 , new shocks installed and adjust firmer to 6 clicks , tire pressures at 16 psi , Night stick shifter installed and vola that all it took .
Easy huh , now when you watch the video you can see the suspension /WOK is calmer between shifts and down the track , Rons shock really helped out Huge !!
WOK 1.404 REVIEWED[/

time for some pictures , shocks , bars , clutch already done and alignment jigs etc  (https://youtu.be/lfwflNp4pSg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 04, 2020, 07:28:39 PM
    Stability
    When you experience any form of instability it can scare the hell out of you But ,when you can drive with one hand on the wheel over 140 mph while accelerating ,life is good !! Very good !
It really comes down to a few things ,. Weight distribution , wheel alignment and suspension , ok and some solid nerves. The best way to start is with your wheel alignment and you can move fwd from there .
Im going to use some old and new photos and information  and examples as it flows better that way .
  You gotta know this to start .
  *frt TOE-IN decreases as vehicle frt raises-goodish !!!
 *frt CASTER caster increases as vehicle frt raises-very good !!! whats safe 3-4 deg =80 mph /5-6 =90mph/7-8 =100mph the more the better.
 *frt CAMBER no change through suspension range-excellent !!
 * Rear swing -axle toe in increases with suspension squat and so does negative camber , with a IRS the same but not as drastic.

So where do you start , best thing to do is get your alignment specs , can you do this at home ,Yes 100% it can be done at home . or 100% at a shop but ,you still need to know what’s going on instead of taking someones word for it .
   I started with making some new equipment for home alignment adjustment ,the tools work better than I thought and I can set it up and get camber and toe readings at either the front or rear wheels in under 5 min tops .
now the only thing is it only gives total toe but we can look at how to split that between sides later .
   Now as I said earlier I replaced the rear torsion bars from 28mm up to 30 mm ( 28mm bars for sale !!!)  which meant I had to semi pull my rear suspension apart .its garage time so pull out the measuring tape now .
Before the car was put on 4 jack stands I measured from the bottom rear bolt of the spring plate retainer to the floor on both sides  , then with the car up on the 4 jack stands and the jack under the rear hub of each rear wheel I jacked up until the car just started to lift
Off the jack stand , that was the point the 28mm bar was supporting the vehicle weight ,measure from ,in this case lower shock mount to floor and note that measurement down ,now replace the torsion bars and you now have
Your 2 measurements to put things back too , the support weight point and the ride height .very simple . 30mm bars in and done !
   I use solid spring plate retainers and modified adjustable spring plates ,Solid plate retainers allow for now control arm movement ,excellent . And modified the adjustable spring plates by moving the adjusters forward for better tire clearance .adjustable spring plates are key later on not just for adjusting ride height but also weight distribution.
pics shows suspension down travel limiters, 30mm torsion bar, solid spring plate retainers and modified adjustable spring plates .and a mission raceway mess
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006337.jpg)

WOK back on 4 wheels ,supporting weight and ride height reset and checked , Now TIME to installed my super trick alignment tools, there made from 3/4 square tubing and custom made to fit 15” rims and of course I made sure its 100% square as I tigged it together . It hangs on the top lip of the rim and works on the 3 point system to keep it square .
Also I made a couple of special retainning nuts that thread onto my wheel studs and simply use rope or zap straps to secure the jig securely to the rim .
   I use a lee valley magnetic base angle gauge stick it to the side of my alignment tool and zero it horizontal then move the lee valley tool to the outside position for camber reading .Simple.
There are 2 slots cut in the lower cross tubing which for your info is the width of my rear tires, 26” that allows for the 2 tape measures to slide through . So you can see now . Hang the jigs and square them , connect 2 tape measures take toe and camber readings = less than 5 min ,sweet ! The dam tool works .stupid simple . Its cool to see while you say jack the frt or rear of the car up or down and watch the tape measures move while watching the measurements change , that’s learning what’s going on with your toe readings.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006211.jpg)
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006210.jpg)

Hey tried the frt next wow under 5 min and have my results there as well , yes you can calculate caster on the frt but worry about that later .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006212.jpg)

My trick is to use green masking tape on the floor and mark my numbers right there ,yep I will forget otherwise .
   Now I have frt and rear camber and toe readings . what did I find ?
Rear suspension measured showed 1/8 total toe , but my camber on the left rear wheel was way more positive than the right rear .?
Also my frt suspension total toe was 1/8” total , caster I don’t need to worry about as it was already known but my left frt camber was way out .?
 So far nothing really sticking out for my high speed wander but.
Back up onto the jack stands for a camber inspection . i put the jack under each rear wheel and lifted it to my ride height and installed a bigger wedge under my suspension limiters to keep each rear wheel while up in the air at ride height and
simply used the lee valley angle gauge on the inside of the brake disc to double check camber measurements I previously took with my alignment tool ,
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2007881.jpg)

Now my suspension is a one of and it has the ability to simply adjust camber and toe-in quite simply.
By either  turning my inner heim joint or sliding it up and down in the grooved slot , by fluke it works out that 1 turn of the heim joint is 1/16” toe adjustment in or out .
   Always work with the worst side and in this case I needed to slide the left heim joint down to give me less positive camber .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2007880.jpg)

I adjusted this in a few ways .pre-checked the camber at full squat , ride height and full lift . It works out the suspension is really unique and
Does not have major camber change through its complete range from full lift to full squat but more important is its a ZERO camber for the most part .with the car fully lifted in the rear it max around +0.7 of a deg and at ride height + 0.07 deg .nothing.
I quickly while the car was in the air reconnected my alignment tools , set suspension to ride height and hey still 1/8” Toe-In
FRT left wheel , rim off and inspected , NO adjustment for camber left ,now im not sure if the spindle took damage at some point ,yes cheap Chinese drop spindles or they are just crap , I think they are crap .but I do have a set of the onset upper ball joint
Camber adjusters , may just give that a go and see what happens before a buy another set of spindles
     Back on the GROUND and time to recheck frt and rear alignment again, Frt no change but rear camber NOW excellent and toe still 1/8” ,well this is not really any reason for wander but yes it maybe part of it and for sure every correction HELPS !!
NOW HOW do you split the TOE -IN evenly between sides , hey I can have 1/8” toe in but that might mean left wheel has 0 toe in and right wheel has 1/8” toe in ,still 1/8 total toe but not even , that can cause a pull or push .
SO time to think outa the box .I hung a plumb bob from my frt beam centre grub screw and marked the floor , did the same at the rear by fitting a plug into the centre hole in the centre of the pan and marked the floor .then stretched a thing string between the 2 points .
Bang instant centre of car ,So back on with the alignment tools and just measured from the front of each bar to the string ,
Found this pick , you can easily see the frt centre beam grub screw and the factory pan centering hole at the rear .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/154022.jpg)

VERY interesting have to keep it a secrets until im at the shop using the hunter aligner ,now will see if im any good .
Photos ,data, scales here we come
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 04, 2020, 08:13:11 PM
  Drove the WOK to the shop ,car felt good and always fun and put it up onto the Hunter alignment rack , the specs I have are NOT stk VW but slightly modified for my vehicle .but numbers are numbers .
So drum roll , now I can see how close my home alignment was , WELL to say the least im dam good !!!!
Lets look as how she sits
 Total toe frt and rear 1/8” , frt caster is always 9+ deg positive and will never change and rear camber just as I set it a hair positive camber at 0.08 deg positive camber
The front TOE-IN was bang on at 1/16” per side but you can see my REAR toe in was slightly off , yes total TOE was 1/8” but not even per side ,
  So having these readings now allows me to go home and simply extend the left rear heim joint 1 turn out to give 1/16” toe in and wind the right rear heim joint in 1 turn decreasing the TOE to 1/16”
For the same total of 1/8” total but now even , Get it .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006217.jpg)

   well is the WOK fixed , nope im never happy , this is just the car sitting level not moving or under load . I know what needs to be done .but lets look at a few shot I took while on the rack doing some testing .
Focus is only at front here , look closely at the TOE-IN and caster .
     Just as I said caster has increased as suspension raises — EXCELLENT but what happened to my TOE-IN — well its gone !!
You can see I have taken some measurements for at home later , those represent from the bottom of the fender lip to the front wheel contact point dead centre .
So again this is stationary with no load !! But does show while accelerating and the rear drops a bit and the frt lifts what happens . Hit a bump add some more road force of 140 mph and its most likely
Driving the frt wheels to a dangerous TOE-OUT ,
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006216.jpg)

   Well we know the frt TOE needs adjustment and the rear TOE needed help at ride height but what happens to the rear when I slow shift and the back of the car lifts up ,
Or more important at the end of the track on decele . So frt back down and time to jack rear of car up till it hits the limiter stops.
You can see the rear camber increases to 0.70 positive camber , hey not bad less than 1 deg positive ,but look at the toe .
Both the left and right sides lost 1/16” toe in , not bad at all very small change in toe , camber is excellent and we know we still need a TOE-IN adjustment
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006215.jpg)

    So what did I do , The rear TOE Adjustment I need to do at home as its allot of work but the frt was easy , readjusted the frt TOE-IN to 1/8” per side and almost changing to 3/16” per side , and now even with the car lifted in the frt The car stayed at Min 1/16” TOE-IN , SWEET .
The rear now was easy , since I new the right side already had 1/8” toe in and at full lift it only went to 1/16” toe in its just a matter of adjusting the left rear heim joint out 2 turns to readjust the left rear toe to positive 1/8” TOE-IN .now I don’t have to worry here as the rear suspension squats it gains negative camber and TOE-IN
  At the shop you can see my newly set frt TOE-IN and with a bit of trickery drove the left rear fwd for testing purposes , I like the numbers now .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2006214.jpg)

   I hope you can see what’s happened and why I was getting instability and wander , its more than just a flat level setting ,you need to put the chassis through its ranges and see what numbers change .
IS it stable , hey im going 140mph plus with 1 hand on the wheel , so ill say ya im happy ,job done. Well almost time for the scales.

Basic specs for me at ride height , frt toe between 1/4-3/8” Toe-in, frt camber will be 0-0.5 deg positive , rear camber at ride height a hair over 0 deg and toe at 1/4” toe in
 
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 15, 2020, 10:46:15 AM
i copied this over from years ago from one of my favorite old sites ( ultimate air cooled ) used to be great ,not so much anymore but,
this was a topic from many years ago but its a good read with some great info


jim martin

my poor car is gutted but i hope to start getting it together very soon .i have access to a 4 pad car scale .I'm very worried about weight up frt this time and think i may need to transfer some up there .i have a few things that could be relocated .wondering if anyone has done a 4 corner balance and would mind not sharing some data with me ,it would be a big help as i want to remain stable and not over or under weighted at one end .info could be posted here or in private if you want to keep your results a little more guarded i can appreciate that as well .
thanks , Jim

Bad Bug Two
as far as where you want the weight, I am not as sure on that as some things that you need to consider (You may already know!)....

Make sure that when you weigh it the scales are all level to each other. There is a couple of methods to do this, but if they are not on the same plane, the car may inadvertently shift its weight to the lower scale(s). Also, make sure the car is race ready on its weight.... fuel, tire pressures, you (with all safety gear), etc....

By the way, I just weighed my race bug last week and with me in it, it is right at 1750lbs total. (I don't recall individual weights, because I was not concerned with that at this point.)

Good luck and hopefully someone else can chime in with more useful info!

Tom Simon
others may disagree, but I found a 4 scale check and adjustment to be key in car set up. Namely, getting fore and aft weights in the ball park, then getting the cross weights about right.

My experience has been with only two cars, and both handled great when finished. I ended up with 1/3 weight up front to 2/3 weight on the rear of one car. Then 'square up' the cross weights, meaning with me and my gear in the car, the front tires should each be carrying 1/6th of the total weight, the rear tires should each be carrying 1/3rd of the total weight.

If you are class racing, build a light car then put lead weights where you want it. But most guys aren't building a class car.

If you are rebuilding the car, and you have a choice, keeping/moving the battery to the passenger side, same with the fuel cell, ignition box, breather tank, etc can help offset the weight of the driver.

Before you scale, make sure the front end is aligned, tires pressures are set, driver id in the car, fuel, oil, ready to race.

Small changes to the ride height or preload of the rear torsion bars, by turning the set screws on the aftermarket spring plates is about the easiest way to change corner or cross weight readings. Crank on the passenger rear torsion set screw and the weight of the driver's side front also increases. I hope that helps

slalombuggy
haven't set up cars for straight line racing, but one thing we want in autocross and road racing is to keep all weight as low as possible and as said by Tom, try to offset as much as possible to the passenger side to compensate for drivers weight. Having the ride height set where it will be is critical in scaling a car. Any changes in that area will mean re-scaling the car.


 jim martin

thanks for the info .I'm looking fwd to see what i will find out once the wheels hit the ground again .
anyone has some input let me know I'm taking safety very serious this year and everbit helps


 jim martin

always like to follow up .
car on the scales ,with me in it, helmet on lap and suite under seat. 3 gallons fuel .

 
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000172.jpg&hash=70f505406a439deeb378f458f48919ec5803cee2)

car without driver, weight 1727 lbs
 
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000171.jpg&hash=21e452c4b38048d59d7127532762a5f7aca31133)

with driver 1911 lbs
 
(https://airspeedparts.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dialedinperformance.com%2Fimages%2F2442%2FIMG_00000173.jpg&hash=15f47495ffc9d02f48f88967bd1516e4afe163d1)
only thing to add is my safecraft fire suppression system . i was very surprised to see the
left frt lighter than the right frt ,especially with me on that side .numbers look good
and happy to see a 35/65 split

MagOO

Well, with a little judicous finagling, you should be able to scale it a little better than that. it may help if you can mount the snuff kit close to the battery tray area..Also do a search here on Tony Klink's PRO/GAS car session with the 4 corner..

Jabber Jaws

The drivers side torsion bar has more preload than the passenger side. The drivers side MAY have too much OR the passenger side MAY have too little. Measure the rear camber and ride height to determine which side needs adjusting.

Nick Wharton

Jabber Jaws said:
The drivers side torsion bar has more preload than the passenger side. The drivers side MAY have too much OR the passenger side MAY have too little. Measure the rear camber and ride height to determine which side needs adjusting.
you beat me to it. I was thinking the same thing. Check ride height loaded, unloaded, before and after

 jim martin

i see what you are saying .by adjusting the right rear torsion firmer it will basically push/apply more weight to the right rear and in doing so will force more pressure to the left frt
 

Jabber Jaws

jim martin said:
i see what you are saying .by adjusting the right rear torsion firmer it will basically push/apply more weight to the right rear and in doing so will force more pressure to the left frt
Exactly, but you may find by investigating camber and ride height that LOWERING the left rear is the way to go. If it is swing axle camber will be your main factor. You want both wheels to have the same camber loaded. When you think you are done raise the front about 10 inches and see what happens in the back with weights and camber, this will give you an idea where to "shift weight" in the car and if your rear torsions are close to equal strength.

Tom Simon


jim martin said:
always like to follow up .
car on the scales ,with me in it, helmet on lap and suite under seat. 3 gallons fuel .
numbers look good and happy to see a 35/65 split
If I were doing the set up, I would try to get closer than that. I would almost ignore weight without driver and gear. It's interesting, but has little bearing on how the car will drive down track. Make sure caster and camber are set, tire pressures are set with a good gauge. Only then will your scales work correctly.

If I had them, I'd tighten the passenger (right) rear springplate adjuster screw, to add more pre-load to the right rear. If I had no adjustable spring plates, I'd take the springplate off and carefully re-index both inner and outer splines to yield a little more pre-load on the right rear. As was mentioned, increasing right-rear pre-load will always increase load on the left front, at the same time. It's very similar to shimming up the short leg of a table sitting on an uneven surface. Two legs are carrying all the weight, the other two 'short legs' are wobbling. You only shim one of the two legs, yet when finished, both legs are now carrying weight.

The goal is to make the left front and rear, and the right front and rear percentages equal, regardless of left side and right side weight (which you can't do anything about at this point, short of adding lead bars, which I can't recommend for these purposes).

Example: look at your total left side weight, and total right side weight with driver. Right side total weight, right front 342 + right rear 559 = 901lbs. Left side total weight, left front 329 + left rear 640 = 1011lbs. Unless you move the driver toward the tunnel 6", the left and right weight distribution will remain the same, driver's side is 100lbs heavier. For corner weighting purposes, let's assume you can't/won't change that fact.

Typically the left of a VW's driver's side of the car will have a higher combined front and rear weight total, so your driver's side being heavier than the passenger side is typical.

What you can do, to make the car go straight and handle great, is to get your front and rear percentages closer.

Example: as the car sits, your front/rear percentages are 35/65, which is fine. What is off, and can be fixed, is the right rear currently carries only 62% of the right side's total weight, and the left rear carries 67% of the left side's total weight. Make sense?

To fix this on your car, increase right rear preload to where the scale reads about 585lbs, the left rear should read about 656lbs. These are approximate, because the front and rear percentages usually change slightly as you increase or decrease pre-load. This is a little bit 'trial and error' so be patient, keep notes, use a calculator, and keep in mind that the goal is to have the 'corner's' carrying the right percentages of weight.

Jeff Lovell

unhook your shocks. I don't know your shock valving, so it might not make too much difference. but normally you should un hook the bottom of the shocks

Jeff Lovell


im sure you know this but make sure you bounce the car real good on all four corners , front back , side to side.


Tim Haugen

Something I have been doing to check my car is chassis tweak test.
We did this on on road and off road rc cars and have adapted it to real cars. You need to find a place on your car that is level side to side to place a 2’ level or similar on the chassis. Then you need to place the car on a level surface you may need to use shims under the tires to achieve this. This is critical, I use a 12’ level to achieve this. After you have the car on a leveled surface, get the weight in the car where it belongs, driver gas etc. Next you need to find a place to lift the car perfectly centered side to side for the front and back respectfully. Get a floor jack with a piece of angle iron place it on the jack with the triangle pointed up. Roll the jack under the car place the point of the angle perfectly on the point you located to be center. Lift one end of the car (with weight in) and watch the level. If the car is perfect it will keep level if not it will tell you what side needs adjusted. Remember to bounce the car once lifted as Jeff suggested. The next thing to check is your droop ( the amount the wheels drop when that end is lifted) If the chassis level shows the car to be level the droop should be the same. If not, you need to address the droop situation also. Scales don’t show this and it is critical to the cars balance. Redo for the other end and recheck. If done correctly you will notice how much better the car will launch and drive. I have done this to all the cars I set up and it is blatant when you drive them, there much better. I have checked my work against scales and really was not surprised at how well this works as the scales showed it.


 jim martin

thanks , i completely understand and appreciate everyones input .Tom your calculations examples are excellent .
alignment is finished and rear is custom IRS with very little camber change through range of motion and in the area its sitting there would be almost Nil if i raise it or lower it 3/4 ".spring plates are adjustable left and right and all 4 corners are qa1 dual adjustable shocks .i did not recheck pressure in the tires and i now see how that can effect things .this was my first shot on the scales and will be playing with it again soon .vehicle is apart as the tranny needed a quick fix .also will level all the scales on the floor and make sure there all at the same height . also will let the shocks hang as suggested .
i would say my only adjustments at this point in which i have to play with are .removal of the steel engine deck lid , muffler , and positioning of my 5 lb safecraft bottle ,frt beam centre adjusters and of course left and right rear torsion bar adjustments .

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 15, 2020, 10:52:23 AM
see previous page #12

Quest for the 9's list : TOPIC UPDATE AS OF TODAY 03/16/2020
- WELL pretty simple just needed to make a few small engine changes ,LOL .
you can see there has always been a constant direction with everything slowly moved fwd
toward building and tuning a Old School turbo motor but adding a few tricks.over time this power plant  has taken more abuse than you could
ever imagine and has been very reliable and a consistent performer ,This engine is still capable of easily putting out another
75-100 hp but for the time being i will just fine tune the state of tune im at now, making it more efficient
and Finnish Dialing-In the details .
  There is more than just having a motor than can put out some jam there needs to be a balance and the whole car needs
to work together , it just takes time.
presently the WOK is undergoing some upgrades again and will bring those up later .
 But will look at the list and think about what to bring up next.

 

.Trans inspected and new synchros and 1.00 4th gear
.Turbo repaired and upgraded with a billet inlet wheel and new exhaust housing ,header pipe fabricated
.New camshaft ,shorter duration more lift
.Engine inspected and overhauled
.k800 valve spring inspected and installed and readjusted
.EGT probes installed
.New REV6 clutch in ,tested and adjusted
.New intake fabricated
.Drysump oiling , done previously


- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
- haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few more off now
 looks like its shock time

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 27, 2020, 08:03:07 PM
so what have I been doing ,drinking , smoking , social distancing and wasting the rest of my time .
 besides that moving fwd slowly real slowly but fwd at least.
yes, its really all about safety and the WOK has been pushing it for some time ,was thinking of heading to VEGAS in Oct .
but with the way things are economy wise im a bit tight .
so motor stays in car with deckled closed .want to do my winter overhaul but can't afford to do so ,
SO time to upgrade to 8.50 CERT cage . I have a 6 point need a 8 point and window net ect ect.
now 2 of my 6 points are legal and the other 4 are not ,needs to be supported on 6x6 " /36 sqin area 1/8 " plates .
I have 2 great contacts one local and one in the USA.
towed the car out for chassis inspection and got the pre-inspection list as well as bounced pictures ect off chassis inspector in USA .
stage #1 update the frt "A" piller 3x6 plates to 6X6 as well as add another 18 square inches to the "B" pillar mounts .
they were both cool in the not fully welded section and let the wires pass behind added 3x4 plate
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2015833.jpg)
for the 'B' pillar fabbed up some additional area boxes . played around with some tig settings for fun .
3 pieces later I more than added my total area of 36 sqin
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2015836.jpg)
yep more grinding of paint , real fun and clean .and some tig time and mig time and its done .
tape is covering bare metal , also added the 6x6" plate on the tunnel for the two 1.250" required "D" bars
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2015832.jpg)
halo fits well
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2015839.jpg)
passanger "A" bar is a piece of work ,
As always the plan is with the door closed roll cage is pretty much hidden ,just takes time
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2015835.jpg)
tig time ,practice and more practice . the tubing is 1 5/8" 0.083"wall 4130 chromoly .welds nice with ER70s-2 rod and about 85-90 amps
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2015838.jpg)
time of no turning back .tacked the passenger "A" bar to the Halo ,was not sure if it would come out , but it was tight but luckily it did .
added another 6 tacks and started welding about 1/2" -3/4" at at time moving around .you can see now those 'A' bars are pretty unique .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2016412.jpg)
the plan is prime and paint the halo/A bar assembly then Finnish fitting the drivers "A" bar and paint it .then tack it to the Halo in the car .
I need to be able to fully weld the assemble so the top will be impossible .
so tack it and if worse cannot be removed just drop the rear halo down so I can get to the top of the Drivers "A" bar for welding .
the prop up again and weld Halo to main hoop and frt floor lower mounts .
also after test fitting will do the same with the "D" bars
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 09, 2020, 01:31:27 PM
well picking away at things slowly , prepainting 2x "D" bars. 1X drivers "A" bar and hoop/passenger assembly tomorrow .
then in for welding into car ,
so far as planned fits real tight i like the stealth look as well as when driving its not getting in the way entering or exiting the car or
blocking view fwd


D bars done
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2022492.jpg)

drivers 'A" bar done
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2022491.jpg)

hoop and passenger assembly out and primed for paint
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2022490.jpg)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 21, 2020, 09:13:14 PM
Finally had good weather so out went the “D” bars
The drivers “A” bar and the hoop assembly for paint
And clear , masked of the tube ends about 2” to leave room for weld ,
Mixed up some base and reducer and
Used my small badger airbrush, worked perfect for
The job and used a aerosol clear turned out great and was real simple.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2026562.jpg)

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2026564.jpg)

The hoop assembly was wrapped in a thin foam and installed the other day .
It’s never coming out again now you now why it needed prepainted
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on April 26, 2020, 03:18:27 PM
Not doing much , like everyone else . Just hanging out with family.
Got the main hoop and drivers “A” bar in , used straps to make sure
It’s fully seated and locked into position.
Ready to tack the drivers “A” bar then will drop the complete assembly
Down for full weld and paint


(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2030943.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 02, 2020, 10:22:01 AM
picking away slowly , tacked the drivers A bar to the main hoop ,welded the bottom section then Tim to drop the assembly.
yeah almost did not happen its tight and required a bit of force to pop it past the main hoop .
dropped and welded ,then primed and painted ,ready to go back up .
need help from the girls again ,not a one man job that's for sure .then its TigTime 8 joints to go
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2033356.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 12, 2020, 01:27:00 PM
Well gota think , WOK is on its wheels and starting to weld in roll cage .
so ill fit those in here and there .
so its either gota  be
NIGHT-STICK select shifter or MFI mechanical fuel injection

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2038707.jpg)
sorry samba pulled photo was not clean .will upload another  or switch to another topic

or

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2038711.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 18, 2020, 07:53:05 PM
well main hoop and "A" bars are in and about 1/3 welded at each point outa gas so tacked and 2 sections of weld at each point.
now can put it back up onto jack stands ,that will make welding a bit easier not being so low and now everything is tacked when all wheels on the ground , much better.

 hey no 8.50 cert cage here
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2041436.jpg)

like the rest of the roll bar the new cage upgrade is as hidden as it can be .its friggen in there tight .
from the frt ,not the best shot but under normal light bars blend in .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2041434.jpg)

this shows the tight fit ,can be done just takes time and some good planning .pain in the ass actually.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2041438.jpg)

yep snakes there pretty good .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2041437.jpg)
hopefully will Finnish welding these 4 points then will weld in the "D" bars .
for all you tig welders .welding the chromoly 0.083" wall tube is easy like I said 83 amp zone .
but welding to a 0.120" wall mild steel cage or even worse floor plates not so easy as you are dealing with 2 different size materials as well as major heat dissipation
tried with 83-90 amps disaster .needed to set to 120m amps .start puddle at floor plates or mild steel roll bar and let puddle wick up to new cage tapering off to 107-110 amps
any way hope everyone is safe and off to the weld shop for a refill .
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 23, 2020, 04:52:09 PM

Who took my door

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2043481.jpg)

Pulled the drivers door for welding “A” bar , worked real well , passanger door
Stayed on .
So both “A” bars welded and hoop both points about 80% welded .
Gota look how I’m going to tig the top
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on May 29, 2020, 09:03:57 AM
ok going to get it done , serious time now .well not really to serious .
top of main hoop and "D" bars here I come .then its easy after that .readjust seat frame , paint and window net .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2045897.jpg)
Got everything prepared, using a CK-9 flex head to torch and even modified the smallest back cap for another
1/2 more room , not bad total under 2”.
Time for some test passes
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on June 01, 2020, 10:18:42 AM
Check 8.50 cert cage upgrade off the list ,im a good welder but I needed someone with excellent vision, steady hands ,and some killer skills to somehow
Weld the section of the hoop to the main roll bar at the top ,basically its welding blind in a spot that is almost impossible to get a tig torch into .
   I made a call to Dave at http://www.coastweldingsupplies.ca
If you need welding supplies , bottle rentals and fills or advice . coast welding supply is excellent ,well priced and some of the nicest guys I’ve ever dealt with . And yes if you’re like me and are short on time they have delivery service.

  I recently hurt my right thumb bad . So I called Dave at coast welding supply and asked if he new anyone that could help.
now finding someone to help and go mobile is a tall order but luckily for my I was soon contacted by Kennan ,we chatted and he came up took a look and on Friday 2 hrs later it was a wrap ,thanks Bud you were fantastic to work with !!!!!!!
  So not always easy to find a guy that loves cool projects but he is one .
Now for me since I had everything prepped and my tig equipment is top shelf it just worked out great .he just showed up with his helmet and gloves and was good to go .
 So ,If need some help or some fabrication or welding please contact him and discuss your project .
https://www.instagram.com/keenzo/
Keenan’s phone number is 604 364 5662
Or e-mail k.domerecki@gmail.com

“D” bars to tunnel ,check
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046051.jpg)
“D” bars to main hoop , Check
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046050.jpg)
Halo to main hoop ,check and check 
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046049.jpg)

Turned out great
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046048.jpg)
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046047.jpg)
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046046.jpg)
And hey how about a few action shots of Keenan twisting himself in there .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046040.jpg)
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2046044.jpg)
Man I was happy not having to do the twist .
Next reposition seat and ready for window net  planning .then paint it up
 
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on June 14, 2020, 06:15:08 PM
Good looking bunch , will see if it happens this year.
   Great weekend and did some pre celebration of turning double nickels tomorrow.
And looks like we may  be the first to hit 100000 views.
   been working on cleaning up and on a new seat position as I had a issue with my HANS device last year .
seat needs to be uprighted about 10 deg and dropped down 1-2 inches .
window net mounting kit is on route .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2052189.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: silas on July 13, 2020, 10:50:01 PM
^^ cool pic! good times, great friends, great memories!  :wub:

congrats on over 100k thread views Jim!! plus the 8.5 cage looks awesome! nice work!  :cool:
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 14, 2020, 10:25:52 PM
Thanks bud and talk soon.
June is a very busy month at our house so only bits here and there can be squeezed in.
  I have welded in the top fwd tab for window net but not the rear.
I have a issue that needs correcting for some time , my current Jazz race seat just isn’t working
Very well . And when I tried strapping in with the HANS device it was a disaster. So time to figure it out .
Watching videos I see I like to sit more upright  annd quite high ,and when I lean back into the seat my helmet hits the seat
Headrest top , then when I strap in with the HANS device I’m looking up at the top of the windshield and my
Neck gets kinked .
My current seat mount is horizontal and level with the chassis but the seat backrest angle is 27.8 deg , wow.
No wonder I sit fwd and when strapped in look out the top of the windshield, now shimming at the rear under the seat to bring
It to 18-20 deg was doable but now the seat bottom was tilting down.seat is supposed to be 20 deg but hey mass production stuff.
   So solution is a new seat , got it narrower and with correct seat backrest angle 18 deg and better height and fit And with Hans
Device no issue ! Test fit went ok . Now time to make a new seat mount, this is a fun project . Aluminum, tig time ,  cutting and drilling,
Some flash and allot of measuring and test fitting , right up my alley .
Here is the start . Bottom base coming together , slides in between original seat base and bolt to it with original holes.
Started already on top brackets , hopefully Finnish or nearly Finnish this weekend the complete the window net mount .
  Seat position is very critical and I found out I was actual offcentre to the left quite a bit .
So my new seat is now Centred and 2.5” lower and adjustable for can aft an tilt from 10-20 deg , sweet.
Here we go
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2063509.jpg)
.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 15, 2020, 10:35:28 PM
Got the top track welded on the inner plate.

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2064343.jpg)

Little bit every day .
Here’s what’s going on / kinda the end result , but more work to do ,

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2064340.jpg)

Lots more to go , Gota decidevweather I bling the seat mount plates.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 19, 2020, 08:42:33 PM
top plates are welded on , frame is bolted in yep now you can see no butchering original seat track .gota outa box think a bit
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2065340.jpg)
time for yet more mockup ,most likely about the 50th time its been in and out
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2065339.jpg)
sweet side plates are bolted to frame as well as seat bolted to side brackets
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2065337.jpg)
sits at 18 deg on the button .2" lower and feels great and HANS device and helmet position really good .
needs the jim T@L once I remove later . working now on back rest support and window net
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on July 27, 2020, 07:49:10 PM
well I was pretty happy with my new lower mount until I got in and was really paying attention , never really noticed it .
maybe because my new seat is narrower than the old im fairly snug .so yep its dead centre in the mount but the steering wheel feels way off to the right .
and same with the pedals .took some thinking but that's the way vas are by design .seat is centre correctly on pan but due to frt beam and position of frt wheels
and steering box it has to be off to the right and same with the pedal assembly .its tight up there .
SO what to do . measure straight down from centre of steering shaft to floor , then measure centre of seat and voila its off about 1.250" .
well can shift over 1" easily so tig time another section of aluminum to the lower seat mount and slide it over .
much better feel ,way nicer now .I can't believe I missed it earlier on .
Backrest to cross bar mount time .picts later
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 08, 2020, 12:40:29 PM
well got the seat figured out and will come back to that .
modified the top sprin loaded window net mount and tigged in the brackets.
notice the top fwd bracket is not hanging down but horizontal so when entering the car it not a head gouger.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2074213.jpg)

net mocked up
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2073293.jpg)

inside view taking shape
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2073290.jpg)

pattern is rolled up and on route to STROUD Safety for a custom net .
once back will Finnish lower mount

 Best news is it time to start the reassemble,seat out and vacuum and damp rag time .what a mess.
started by touching up the floors with the old por15 .turned out great .
nice 2tone on the frt 'A' bar mounting plates.
you can see where the wiring will go behind plate .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2074214.jpg)

tape time ready for body color on 3 more welded points
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2074063.jpg)

that completes paint on the passenger side
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2074060.jpg)

"D" bar center mount turned out ok
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2074061.jpg)

next is the drivers side completion , floors are done need to paint upper hoop, crossbar/D bar point and fwd window net mount .next week problem.
as well need to install a new solenoid for my clutch management system ,ECMS. then bleed it .the old solinoid is jut very old and its time for a new upgrade






Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 13, 2020, 09:05:11 AM
Finally got it done , 8.5 cert cage is painted and complete minus lower window net mount , which I need a net in order to complete.
Yes it worked out well and fits nice and tight and conforms well .
Time to start reassembling the interior and make small changes as I go .
Back on track now
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2075956.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: mitchy965 on August 13, 2020, 11:24:50 AM
looks awesome Jim,tubular sculpture.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 16, 2020, 11:54:06 AM
now im getting somewhere .
drivers door back on ,that's been off a while now.

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2076091.jpg)

one thing im doing is anything that is removed doesn't go back on or in until its upgraded, repaired and weight reduced.
with the drivers door without going crazy ,the door check was out so it got the Swiss cheese effect as well as all window regulator hardware
door pull hardware ect is swapped out to aluminum fasteners ,steel is used when strength is needed of course .
(jim add photos later)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 21, 2020, 02:11:19 PM
looks awesome Jim,tubular sculpture.
thanks bud , and Lanny good hearing from you the other day .

well what have I been doing , first im terrible taking pictures in the car its dark and doesn't pan out the best .

 ok this is a crappy picture , but there were a few things I planned to do when the interior was coming together .
fix-up crappy wiring , as well as have no wiring lying on the floor pan . runabout all wiring and tuck behind roll cage mounts .
really fun pulling wiring apart, what disaster but 2 looms later it was done , cleaned up im happy .even putting mats back in now .
the main loom runs in the original location and behind the left frt A lower mount and the aux harness runs through the rocker and pops out in frt
of the frt A bar lower mount.
NO more wiring lying on floor ,weee

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2080181.jpg)

closer but you get the idea
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2079689.jpg)

passenger frt A bar mount wiring tucked in ok as well ,
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2079688.jpg)

looking in from drivers door all cleaned up as well .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2080180.jpg)

that completed the complete interior wiring cleanup and reroute now some cool stuff .
 how about some clutch management and data logging stuff coming next !

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 22, 2020, 08:30:19 AM
DATA how did we ever run without it ? well there was a time things were simpler .But know as things get more critical when pushed harder
it sure help to know if your on the correct path .
DATA means Nothing if your not smart enough to use it and still never skip the basic steps .
a good example would be assuming your EGT (exhaust gas temperature) are ok/safe without being smart enough to pull your spark plugs
and compare the EGT readings to your Spark plug readings . most don't pull plugs cause there lazy , bad on you .it has to be done .
  Where to start and what do I use .like many I started off very basic with a old LM1 from Innovate Motorsports . great unit and still have it .
and as motors and speed increased as well as having a few melt downs it was time to become way smarter .
 Yes ill say im a very good spark plug reader been doing it forever , But turbo/methanol reading is a different story .same but different .
Running methanol is also way less forgiving when lean but way more tolerable when rich / safe .
Having 1 o2 sensor is kinda useless as its only a avg of you 4 cylinders say 12:1 ,2cyl  could be dead on , 1cyl lean and 1cyl rich result is still 12:1.
bad news especially on methanol so time to add EGT probes to you Data .
here is my layout .its mounted on a pvc board which is easy to bend and  non conductive as well as hides under the passenger seat .
actually everything on the WOK is designed when seats are in everything mostly disappears .
-- don't worry about the blue/blk wire looped there that's for ECMS in test mode/not permanent .
 you get a idea of the layout and can see the yellow wires at the left that's the 4 egt temp probe wiring . and the 2 clear tubes are for crankcase vacuum and boost pressure .
 
this is a better shot of the layout of egt
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2076247.jpg)

and the main data board .
it consists of starting at top , TC-4 , LM2 , and a old LM3 and between the 2 electrical blocks is a vacuum/pressure sensor
 it really helps having a well laid out wiring plan and well labeled as trust me when there is a issue its way easier to trace

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2076246.jpg)

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2080177.jpg)

so what does it all do and what does it look like . well there are 2 ways to review data .first is recorded in car onto a sd card and looked at later in the trailer or home
or live on the p.c screen
-- more to come going water skiing
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 27, 2020, 07:46:28 PM
Back from water skiing and a bit sore.

Decided time to complete interior .
A few things needed doing.
All door hardware swapped To aluminum and door  panel Back on , check.
Nightstick shifter rotated so wiring exits on drivers side not passanger
And of course a new connector installed and wiring rerouted.check.
  No picture will cover shifter later. , fyi it’s been run/tested in 2 fast cars this weekend in the good old USA, sweet.
Now time to remount the rear view mirror and visor unit And shift light reposition , ya no .
Yep with a roll bar in the way the original visor is 2 wide as well cannot flip outa the way .
So time for some fun,
Let’s mill up a new 3/4 length visor out my favourite 4 mm pvc plate .
Cut Out with the jig saw , sanded smooth , time to mill a new mounting slot.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2082570.jpg)
Reassembled and Installed in  the car, not bad
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2082567.jpg)
Now decided to heat it and contour it around the frt halo , if not it still would not flip out The way completely due to halo contact,
Better now
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2082568.jpg)
You can also see I have rewired the shift light and mounted it to mirror shaft , check.
Interior rebuild and upgrade Almost completed,
Lower window net mount , then seat back in and bleed clutch.
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on August 30, 2020, 06:13:01 PM
well back to work , very nice having a long break .
but over the weekend reinstalled lower seat frame .
and temp installed drivers seat , while a wait for window net to arrive which should be next week .
will trim upper seat mounting plate after im happy with final seat location but slightly rounded corners for safety and gave it some bling.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2083450.jpg)
this gave me a chance to work on the seat backrest support .
now its only required to have the min of the centre of the seat supported but will most likely do the better option of 2 outer supports .
better in case of a accident as more load is distributed as well as the seat is more sold due to less rock .
all made of 3/16 6061 aluminum .you can see the start here .2" wide support that will bolt to the back of seat and the 2 outer sections that will mount to roll bar .
centre section is there in case the dual outer mounting method does not work and I go centre single .if not will remove it and keep a small section to help with belt separation .
more work to do and machine the mounting lugs.
but the best thing is I get to bling it up and do some aluminum Tig welding .always the most fun .
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2083445.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 11, 2020, 10:54:29 AM
Great project and it’s done , Check that off the list.
Seat backrest mount completed . Cutting , welding , drilling
Milling, filing, sanding, bling all the tools used .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2087731.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 11, 2020, 04:24:20 PM
In and mounted

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2087779.jpg)

It’s completely solid with no rock at all
Also can be moved fwd and backwards about another 1.250” .
No sense drilling any more holes till I road test it
(https://www. [img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2087778.jpg).com/vw/gallery/pix/2087780.jpg[/img]

And with the seat cover on its the most comfortable snug
Decision I’ve made and with my Hans devise it’s perfect

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2087778.jpg)

Window net arrived and have a slight issue , that’s ok there making me
Another one .
Bleeding clutch now . And hey might insure and go for a spin in the next few weeks
1 last interior step and completed come on window net

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on October 23, 2020, 08:37:13 AM
this is the data run from running 9.8 sec . looks real good .huh ?
well for me anyways  because I'm used to looking at it . and I see some issues right away as well as key information I was looking for .
now the program I use is from innovate motorsports called logworks , real easy to use and play with .
of course there are bells and whistles but also great programs to configure and map your recorded data .
everything is in the end just a 0-5v input with exception of rpm and you configure from there .
if you want examples let me know .anyway lets expand areas and break it down into what I'm looking at .
                (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2102789.png)

nothing beats the old seat of the pants tuning ! only you know what it felt like , sounded like ,and performed like .
so after every run I make notes and usually my girls help entre data and keep notes to help in review on the spot or later .
  this 9.8 sec pass was far from perfect but shows I'm getting real good at complete vehicle tuning. there is so much more than making some power .
I was still setting up suspension , shift points , ECMS control , boost curves ect ect but figured it was time to really see if I was making headway .
  Launch - not my best but still another low 1.4 60 foot , so what did if feel like .I could tell there was a bit of sideways slip . maybe due to tire spin?
or bad weight transfer . well lets look .
first these are all the items I log and can select or deselect any of them at any time
               (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2102790.png)

so pull up the hide channels and turn off what I don't need as well as for your ease of viewing inverted my clutch pedal reading
               (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2102794.png)

so what have I done , first expanded the view
 
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on October 26, 2020, 04:53:20 PM
well last piece of the 8.50 cert completed .

  modified the bottom window net bar with rod-end so I could adjust as needed , the 2 bottom brackets are also slotted
to allow for net stretch so I can pull it tight again if needed .
very happy worked out great

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2103993.jpg)

lower bar inserted through lower window net and bolted to brackets .
fits and works very well

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2103994.jpg)

and with the door closed sfi tag and stroud tag outa view .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2103995.jpg)

  now the window net did not need to be installed to be certified, but I just wanted the interior done ,
So can now check that off the list .
  guess its time to pull the motor out for engine maintenance.
good thing I cleaned the shop
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on October 26, 2020, 06:53:59 PM
60' what is so important about the first 60'
  well really its just a point of reference ,but that first 60' sure make a huge difference on the balance of the run .
usually if it doesn't go well the rest of the pass follows poorly, but when its smooth and consistent the balance of the run just seams way better as well .

racers look for consistency and having a car that is all over the map on Launch is no fun and a consistent looser   .
BUT if you can nail out back to back 60' times you are defiantly having the advantage .
for me I was all over the map , this not only sucks but is hard on driveline as well as it does not allow you to judge your cars performance down the track
as your MPH and E.T are also all over the map .
with the ECMS installed I have been able to nail out very low consistent 60' times which allows me to better judge my vehicle REAL performance potential .
I have averaged depending on the day anywhere  from 4-6 passes in a row between 1.404 - 1.420 sec ,very smooth and consistent .

lets look at 2 passes in this case run #4 (10.112 @139.99) and run #6 (9.83 @ 143.44)
    yes if you look at the tabs its session #5 and 7 . that ia because session#1 is always a pretest for me anyway .

  first run#4 ,like I said I was testing different ECMS settings and this one was very good .
the 1st marker line (left)is the point the vehicle starts to move and the 2nd line (right) is 60' mark 1:30.60 + 1.412 = 1:32.01
 lets start from the bottom up .note; look closely at each point of change and see what point lines up with what .
RED - that is the point the ECMS solenoid energises  and 1.15 sec later it shuts off
YELLOW - clutch position ,notice it starts to engage first then at a specific point the RED ( ECMS solenoid energises )
BLACK - sideways G force , not bad a small push left then snaps back during shift to 2nd ( time to add preload to left torsion huh?)
GREEN - RPM follow it and see if you can figure out whats happening
BLUE - G force forward acceleration , line up with point the ECMS solenoid energises, again see what it line up with

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2104138.png)

  run#6 ,like I said I was testing different ECMS settings and this one was set very aggressive (hmm) .
the 1st marker line (left)is the point the vehicle starts to move and the 2nd line (right) is 60' mark 54.72 + 1.445 = 56.16 sec
 again lets start from the bottom up .note; look closely at each point of change and see what point lines up with what .
RED - that is the point the ECMS solenoid energises  and 1.15 sec later it shuts off
YELLOW - clutch position ,notice it starts to engage first then at a specific point the RED ( ECMS solenoid energises )
BLACK - sideways G force , yep help shows things were not as fwd but obvious issue of some type
GREEN - RPM focuss on rpm rise at point between blue peaks
BLUE - G force forward acceleration , hmm something not good car is obviously pulls hard to 2 g , holds there then looses acceleration then regains it .

now you can see how important data is and what you can start to learn from it , making notes as soon as you get back to trailer ,making notes on time slips ect .
also now take this data and if you are lucky enough to have a video watch it slowly frame by frame and plot against your data .
you will see a lot

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2104137.png)

lets see how this shows up on the computer screen , not sure if its clear enough but will try .
   overlay is the option of taking any segment from 1 session and pasting it onto another session for comparison   ,so I have clipped the same Launch section from run #4 and overlaid it onto run #6
using the same point of foreword acceleration and solenoid engagement as the reference point .
I have removed the sideways force just to make things easier to see .

now remember the ONLY difference on this pass was ECMS settings . which was a combination of engagement point and rate of engagement
 -- RED - same point solenoid is energised and still de-energised 1.5 sec later ( time can easily be cut to .5-.7 sec )as its work is performed way earlier
-- YELLOW - clutch position -  solid yellow 1.445 vs the dotted yellow 1.412 . solid yellow (AGRESSIVE)  starting point .  then climbs fast to 2nd point then climbs fast again to 3rd plateau or full engagement .
where as the dotted yellow line (LESS AGRESSIVE and SMOOTHER) same starting point  . then climbs slower to 2nd point and flat lines there before smoothly climbing to  3rd plateau or full engagement .
what's happening here is the settings in the ECMS is controlling the clutch engagement rate as well as holding a calculated amount of slip before disengaging and controlling rate to full engagement , pretty f--- cool huh  .shit works and like I said its a complete topic on its own but further testing with my USA boys are on hold due to covid  .
-- BLUE and GREEN -- this needs to be looked at together .lets focus on the solid BLUE (g force/acceleration) and Solid GREEN (RPM).
from the vertical line we see the blue line spike up to 2 g's and at the same time the rpm drops from 5600 to like 5300 rpm , then both BLUE and GREEN traces flat line (that is the rear suspension planting down hard most likely on the end stops ) this causes the wheels to spin a bit so the RPM climbs fast as well as the G Force acceleration dropps quickly due to loss of forward acceleration , then about half way between the vertical lines the RPM rate starts to climb at a normal rate which is the same point the vehicle regains traction and the G Force acceleration climbs again .
So know look at the Dotted BLUE and GREEN lines the BLUE acceleration line is delayed and climes smoother as well as the RPM also climbes at the same controlled rate .
 I think you can figure out what's going on here and what was learned from both passes .also what works better for my vehicle .
yep so now you see what a racer look at consistent smooth launches and 60' times -
so you can think like this kindove . 1.445 - 1.412 =.033 sec so 9.830 sec - .033 sec = 9.797 sec .
 I know this is a lot to take in god only covered 60' but hope it makes sense the rest is easy  and I know I'm not giving away to much on ECMS as its a Huge Topic in itself and has  taken years to get to this point

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2104507.png)

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on October 27, 2020, 06:36:50 PM
 well we got off the line and covered 60' .
lets look at how I look at the rest of the info ,figured I would strip it down and add data in groups just to make it simpler to understand .
- BLUE , acceleration - GREEN , rpm  - YELLOW , clutch
first info box 54.72 sec is where the run begins so add 9.83 to 54.72 and you end at 1:4.55 sec. you can see the clutch line drops/disengaged after the run is over ,Why?
that is because you always drive full throttle past the quarter line then roll of the throttle .
if you follow the info boxes you can see the stage RPM and then following to right every shift rpm .as well as you can see Acceleration slowly drops down as the 1/4 mile run continues .
of course that is normal .
Question ? could you adjust what rpm to shift at if you follow Acceleration , yes you sure can and what im looking for is a major drop off and really if you draw a line across
the BLUE acceleration line its pretty smooth and steady drop .
YELLOW- clutch I have added to tracer lines , if it represents clutch fully engaged and disengaged why is there a difference in height
. easy I have my foot on the clutch pedal , take a look at staging /first gear .car launches and I shift 1.48 sec later .yes I still have my foot on the clutch pedal .its fully engaged I just have not allowed the clutch pedal to fully come back into the freeplay zone . then 2nd and 3rd I have more time and have let the pedal almost come back fully into freeplay zone and have my foot just resting on the clutch pedal and finallythen shifted into 4th foot is right off clutch pedal .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2106345.png)

  time to look at PINK- voltage and RED -vacuum . BOOST - Light Green
PINK - Voltage , yes very important to know for all the obvious reasons - a steady voltage is required to support all the electronics especially ignition .
RED - Vacuum (crankcase) I have learned more from this than anything and I have played with this for over 10 years , I know what works and what doesn't as well as what's important  , I've added 2 trace lines ,the bottom dotted Blue line represents 0 pressure and the Red dotted upper line represents the max Crankcase pressure .
 FYI: 1 inHgVac is= 0.5 Psi so yes I go from -12 inhgvac to + 8 inhgvac ( 4 psi) not Bad but not Good either and I know why .
 so it is caused by a few things which im well aware of .
First my GZ  vacuum pump that I've been running for years is in need of some help , I know it needs service and is not pulling full vacuum .its tested by deadheading the inlet at say about 2500 pump rpm , it should pull 15" vac but I only pull 10" .yep its a tad tired .
 then my 2 psi  crankcase backup blow off valve was temp re-shimmed as I was checking for correct sealing ( I thought I had a internal sealing issue ) .usually the valve pops open at 1.5-2psi and dumps Any Crankcase excessive pressure ,but as you can see did not happen do to re-shimming and I was depending on vacuum pump only .
and finally why is there crankcase pressure anyway , well that's what happens when inside the case pressure can't get out and I would assume after looking at the data my tired vacuum pump could not keep up and was actually a restriction . there always is and it shows I have some blow-by past the rings , not bad for dumping in 20 psi boost in a 9.8:1 compression methanol turbo engine . if I run less than 10 psi boost it hold below 0 , Nice .
 So Ring seal . the motors been together for 2 years and has a lot of milage/high load passes , and I was watching my Crankcase pressure slowly rise over time which is the biggest indication of loss of ring seal or wearing vacuum pump .
 Now I do/can  run the motor without the vacuum pump by replacing the inlet hose  that usually runs  from the alternator stand outlet to the vacuum pump inlet by directly connecting the alternator stand outlet to the dry sump tank inlet and I measure no crankcase positive pressure that way , but I like the pump as it keeps my oil clean of methanol milking due to rich mixtures and prevents engine oil leaks .
  Well  , GREAT Vacuum data , lots to learn from . is it really a issue , Yes and No .should the motor stay below the set 10-12 inhgvac the complete pass , Yes it should but turbo methanol motors due to hugely rich mixtures are known to loose vacuum over the run .
So if and when I send the pump back to GZ for service and replace the spring in my Crankcase dump valve it in fact my motor Crankcase Pressure may in fact be not that Bad .
BUT wait there is more on this or reasons for this . gotta love data

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2106342.png)

DARK GREEN -  Fuel Pressure  - now remember im running old school Hilborn Mechanical fuel injection (MFI) now that's another topic but for now what you need to know is , when the engines rotates so does the MFI pump which is mechanically connected to the motor ,So the faster the motor turns so does the MFI pump .which also means it generates fuel pressure at a linear rate to engine rpm , so more RPM more pressure /volume .
the pump is generating about 30 psi over the useful RPM range to a max of 80psi , the pressure sensor is connected between the MFI pump and the barrel valve . which is also display in the car on my ashtray LED  readout . pump is in great shape .

DARK BROWN - AFR , now this in in the methanol scale not gasoline scale  but what im looking at is in fact the total AFR number and does it trend Rich or Lean especially in the top of 4th gear under high boost ,remember I've melted my heads 2x due to lean so im schooled on safe (liking that 3.5-3.7 range ) . and you can see if you follow along in 4th gear it trends rich , GREAT that's what I want to see .

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2106341.png)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 02, 2020, 04:56:56 PM
closer look at the AFR , added 2 tracer lines .avg's 3.75:1 until the top end of 4th gear wear it trends down ( richer ) to 3.6:1 .
this is like I said very important as we need the extra fuel to keep the heat down as well as to support the extra cylinder  pressure .



(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2106340.png)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 02, 2020, 10:40:46 PM
closer look at the AFR , added 2 tracer lines .avg's 3.75:1 until the top end of 4th gear wear it trends down ( richer ) to 3.6:1 .very very good !!!
this is like I said very important as we need the extra fuel to support the extra load and boost.
 ok but how is this possible the engine is jetted for a NA 2442cc on alcohol . so the MFI pump volume and pressure increases with engine RPM. ok for a 2442 NA but .not a boosted 2442 it needs like 2.5 x the fuel volume .
MEDIUM BLUE , "A" VALVE , this is the returning fuel pressure . huh? . a bit more info.
    the "A" valve is connected inline with the fuel return line to the tank , its controlled by turbo boost pressure then restricts the returning fuel to the tank .which raises the main system pressure and volume . so yes the 'A" valve is a boost controlled enrichment valve .and the data is read by a pressure sensor tee'd into the boost sensor return line .
 I use the 'A' valve pressure sensor data to tune my high speed fuel cut-off  and loaded fuel trim .
BROWN - EGT , I added one cylinders get trace as its easier to understand .looking at it from start to Finnish we see a temperature rise from around 600 deg to 1091 deg f .
using that information is simple .first you slowly creep up on timing and mixtures while watching your EGT numbers and every time pull your plugs .soon you will figure out by relating spark plug reading to EGT number and once you have that nailed down its easy .basically you are setting your mixture and timing with plug readings and using EGT data to back up your state of tune  .
so lets say half way in 4th gear where we have a reading of 984 degF the EGT temperature start to drop (cool) that would be a indication you are too rich and say your EGT from that point rise to say 1300 degF that would be a indication at that point you are going dangerously lean .
my target max EGT temp is 1200 degF , that is my known assumed safe EGT temp ,have I pushed it yes and the net difference is not worth the risk of meltdown .
this is where Methanol shines over gasoline .you can be way over rich and loose just a tad of H.P but with gasoline it would just fall on its face .
so when in doubt start rich and adjust from there .
 now you start to see how all things effect another and relate to another and tunning is a process and without data it can be a headache but with data you can make good choices and see the results instantly

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2106340.png)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 03, 2020, 12:16:10 PM
last one .
all 4 EGT's and Vacuum
PINK , vacuum - L GREEN , Boost - GREEN , rpm - YELLOW , clutch (inverted this time flat lie is engaged bottom peak clutch disengaged/shift)
PURPLE #4 egt
L BLUE  #2 egt
BROWN #3 egt
RED.     #1 EGT
 So I see #4 &#2 are running the hottest and #2 follows the exact path but like 75 deg cooler
also #3 &#1 are almost the same but way cooler and then around 4th gear catch up .
  what's the issue ?
so are #4&#2 the correct egt numbers or are #3&#1 correct ?
possibilities are :
- cylinders #1 and 3 are running cooler due to lack of combustion due to say poor ring seal which could also be the reason for the higher crankcase pressure.
- cylinder #4 has a intake leak:
- cylinder #2 is ok as is #4 but is a tad richer due to a emergency injector nozzle replacement due to leakage and its not a flow matched nozzle
- linkage or throttle blades twisted so 2 cylinders are running  richer due to less air and takes awhile / time in 4th gear for them to be open long enough that it no longer is a issue and it stabilizes.
  you can see there are many paths to chase .
so what to do in order check :
check older data from year earlier and check past vacuum and egt readings to compare against  , perform cyl compression and leakage , pull all nozzles and check for debris , bore scope all cylinders for wear , flow check all 4 nozzles , pull motor and repair .


(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2106573.png)

so now you see what I look at and how important data is ,and if you keep constant data logs you can track engine performance and wear ,as well as make adjustments and tune correctly by
making changes from your data results .
 so what has been learned over the last 2 years this engine has been together . well its logged over 75 hard passes without mechanical falure , does not leak oil , does not puke oil out breather, is very tunable and a consistent performer ,  and allowed me to experiment and learn along the way .
motor is finally at the point id say its solid / reliable and in a great state of tune , yes heads , ring seal and vacuum pump are getting a bit tired but even still is capable of running
low 10's and 9.8 second passes consistently .
so im thinking with some engine maintenance both mechanical and inspection and hey even a upgrade or 2 it should be good for more fast times.

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on November 03, 2020, 03:18:07 PM
Quest for the 9's list : TOPIC UPDATE AS OF TODAY 11/32020
- WELL pretty simple just needed to make a few small engine changes ,LOL .
you can see there has always been a constant direction with everything slowly moved fwd
toward building and tuning a Old School turbo motor but adding a few tricks.over time this power plant  has taken more abuse than you could
ever imagine and has been very reliable and a consistent performer ,This engine is still capable of easily putting out another
75-100 hp but for the time being i will just fine tune the state of tune im at now, making it more efficient
and Finnish Dialing-In the details .
  There is more than just having a motor than can put out some jam there needs to be a balance and the whole car needs
to work together , it just takes time.
presently the WOK is undergoing some upgrades again and will bring those up later .
 But will look at the list and think about what to bring up next.

 

.Trans inspected and new synchros and 1.00 4th gear
.Turbo repaired and upgraded with a billet inlet wheel and new exhaust housing ,header pipe fabricated
.New camshaft ,shorter duration more lift
.Engine inspected and overhauled
.k800 valve spring inspected and installed and readjusted
.EGT probes installed
.New REV6 clutch in ,tested and adjusted
.New intake fabricated
.Drysump oiling , done previously


- replace 4th gear and at same time replace all synchros and inspect trans, test new torco transaxle fluid
- go through motor and make sure its solid
- replace valve springs and reset spring pressure
- install EGT temp probes
- modify fuel system for high speed lean out
- upgrade clutch system to rev6
- repair damaged turbo and discuss options
- perform options to turbo and upgrade inlet to billet wheel and eplace exhaust housing
- fabricate new exhaust outlet pipe
- fabricate new intake manifold
- clean and simplify engine wiring and pipework
- test new ECMS ,clutch management system focus on consistent low 60 foot times.
- rewire complete car electronics
- fabricate and wire completely new data logging system
- tune new fuel curve as per new EGT data and work on aggressive but safe tune
- replace frt and rear shocks
- replace rear torsion bars
- dry sump oil system
- vacuum pump
- MFI
- reset and alter alignment specs for new speed
- finish testing new night-stick select shifter
- replace camshaft and not because I wanted to but had to
-  haul ass and go fast

this list will help me go through topics and can cross a few more off now
 looks like its shock time
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on March 05, 2021, 11:49:58 AM
Well here we go , the last of the above topics will get
Covered as we go along .
Clutch and ECMS .
 Step number 1 was pull motor and remove clutch and flywheel.
4 hrs later it’s on the floor
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2153597.jpg)
Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 03, 2021, 05:31:17 PM
Well since my last post lots has happen and like many I’ve just not been into it .
 Due to Covid ,like many I have just stepped back and focused on more important things in life .
- anyway motor was pulled out to inspect clutch. And while it was out I eventually figured might as well
Open it up and inspect it , I really did not want to but why not had some time.
Up and into the stand and started the disassembly and inspection.
First inspection I was pleased . Wow , bearings and internals looking great .
Was thinking maybe a quickly cylinder hone and some rings and slap it back together.

(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2182725.jpg)
Well I was feeling real good until o started cleaning and under closer inspection, bingo #3 intake lifter just starting to flake but #1 perfect, go figure.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2182724.jpg)
Closer look at cam and you can see a issue just starting as well.
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2182723.jpg)

  I was not happy at all as this cam has been rolling along for some time without any major debris showing in the filter. , so this was quite recent .
Anyway , there was some things I have been putting off for a long time .
Swapping my ARPM heads that are very old , tired and in need of some love
To be replaced with my old set of comp eliminators left over from my nitrous days.
This is not just a easy swap .but one that needs doing just for strength and better head seal.
And hopefully more potential reliability.remember the old ARPM heads turned into superflo and were then copied as comp eliminators,  which means inlet manifolds And exhaust port location are the same.
My #1 issue in the past for not doing this is engine width and the issues that go along with it . My current exhaust system is a specific width and Really cannot be altered without a lot of work , anything I would do will change turbo location and header output position.
Let the calculations begin by first seeing if this is going to be even possible .
I made a tool that allowed me to accurately measure the old engine width from centerline to the top outer exhaust stud .
Once I had that figure I loaded my new head in place and took the new width measurement.
So Using a combination of altering deck height , piston compression height and head depth I should able to obtain my engine width and also keep my engine compression the same or in my case up a few fun points .
With all the potential calculations checked double checked and triple checked it was time to move fwd .

Now like I said I was so not into this as you have no idea how much time and energy as well as resources this was about to take , I have some photos as I was not focussed on this but more keeping it rolling along . I’ll dig up what I have put some numbers up and get to where I’m now in a nutshell

Title: Re: Jim Martin
Post by: jim martin on September 06, 2021, 08:33:35 PM
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2214356.jpg)

You get the idea . Like I said low on photos but have a few . Using the aluminum square
And my sliding block that sat flush on the alternator and located of the block centre line I was able to come up with a width.
ARPM block Pauter cyl and ARPM head = 10 15/16”
ARPM block Pauter cyl and Comp Eliminator head = 11 5/16”
So difference of 3/8” = 9.53mm or .375”
(https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2213611.jpg)

Yep got some width to loose .
Now the old motor had basically no head chamber 26cc and massive deck around
.1650” so you see you can make power without tight quench .
But this time I want to swap it .
Tighter deck and combustion in the head chamber .