AirSpeed VW Community Forums
Welcome,
Guest
. Please
login
or
register
.
Did you miss your
activation email
?
1 Hour
1 Day
1 Week
1 Month
Forever
Login with username, password and session length
Home
Help
Calendar
Staff List
Login
Register
AirSpeed VW Community Forums
»
Technical
»
Brakes Forum
»
1970 class11 look
« previous
next »
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Go Down
Author
Topic: 1970 class11 look (Read 2985 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
purple turd
Full Member
Posts: 272
Karma: 3
1970 class11 look
«
on:
August 26, 2013, 05:37:27 PM »
So I have 70 bug bodylifted running 235 tires all around. The brakes seemed a bit to hard so I replaced everything....shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, drums, lines, hoses, master cyl. It seems to take way too much force to stop. Normal...?
Logged
bwaz
brian waz
Full Member
Posts: 2640
Karma: 16
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #1 on:
August 26, 2013, 08:21:16 PM »
235 tires will take a lot more effort to stop for sure!
Logged
brian waz
purple turd
Full Member
Posts: 272
Karma: 3
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #2 on:
August 26, 2013, 09:26:30 PM »
I may try a disc conversion if I can find a reasonably priced kit thats not junk. I used napa shoes so maybe another brand of friction
Logged
purple turd
Full Member
Posts: 272
Karma: 3
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #3 on:
August 28, 2013, 08:01:39 PM »
Not reallysure if anyone cares but after replacing pretty well a complete brake system on my beetle it still did notstop the way it should. 4 wheel drums and probably too heavy. I started looking into discs. Theres not much out there except empi ($200) or the high end stuff ($1400) just for fronts. Ive used empi parts before and seen the absolute crap that is produced.you should have seen the body lift I threw in the steel bin. (The scrap guys didnt even want it). Anywaysorry for the empibashing. I installed the $200 empi disc brake kit with cast caliper mounts, rotors, pads, calipers and hardware. It took just over an hour.everything fit. I havent read the instructions yet. The car stops well and finally it doesnt take a body builder to push the brake pedal. The good parts...I can put it back to stock.there was not a single part missing, nor did I have to modify anything on the car. It stops. The bad...not a fricken thing except I now have a bunch of leftover new drum brake parts.
Logged
bwaz
brian waz
Full Member
Posts: 2640
Karma: 16
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #4 on:
August 28, 2013, 10:27:07 PM »
Did you put in a new master cylinder too?
Logged
brian waz
purple turd
Full Member
Posts: 272
Karma: 3
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #5 on:
August 29, 2013, 07:24:39 AM »
New master was put in a week ago. Most after market listings show the same master for disc or drum. I used a raybestos one.
Logged
purple turd
Full Member
Posts: 272
Karma: 3
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #6 on:
August 29, 2013, 01:58:40 PM »
anyone ever done the front to rear wheel cylinder swap?
Logged
purple turd
Full Member
Posts: 272
Karma: 3
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #7 on:
September 03, 2013, 03:53:06 PM »
Swapped front wheel cyls to rear.stops even better now but pedal travel would scare someone who hasnt been warned. Anyone have any suggestions?
Logged
Hansk
Full Member
Posts: 1638
Karma: 4
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #8 on:
September 04, 2013, 08:36:38 AM »
I've found that drums seem to take time to seat in and pedal feel and pressure improve with time.
Logged
Big fat black fastback
purple turd
Full Member
Posts: 272
Karma: 3
Re: 1970 class11 look
«
Reply #9 on:
September 04, 2013, 07:13:43 PM »
I hope so. My 4 wheel drum buggy brakes are right at the top even when theyre out of adjustment. The disc drum bug has about 3 inches before they do much. Still not pedal on the firewall just so much different from the other car. The beetle weighs 1900lbs ...the buggy weighs 1375
Logged
Print
Pages: [
1
]
Go Up
« previous
next »
AirSpeed VW Community Forums
»
Technical
»
Brakes Forum
»
1970 class11 look