Author Topic: Crank recommendations.  (Read 4704 times)

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Offline kirin

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Crank recommendations.
« on: February 28, 2009, 06:44:25 PM »
Hey Guys,
Just curious if anybody has a good recommendation on where I should get a crankshaft for my 2332 build. I have some big heads lying around that I picked up when Airspeed was selling. I'm sure there is a difference between say a Forged CIP crank and a Gene Berg one. Any reasoning to go chevy journals VS VW? I want it to last a while and I will drive the balls off it so I much rather pay more now rather then later. Cheers.
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Offline egspot

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2009, 08:51:40 PM »
As you kow , I am not an expert but injuries not withstanding I have one built by a buider and i studied the process.

I believe that Chevy journals do not require as much clearance as VW jounals would. That beign said, if you have the money buy a new block already tapped, cleared and opened for your application, do it. It will save you on machining and clearing.

Do not hoid back on your cam, get one that would match what you want the engine for.

Remember the weakest link is the weakest link.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2009, 10:07:54 PM by egspot »

Offline owdlvr

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2009, 08:56:22 PM »
I've got this crank in my garage, happy to take photos if anyone wants. I'm in Squamish, so unless you're passing through it's not exactly convenient to check it out in person!

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-8120


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Offline Bubba

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2009, 09:07:45 PM »
As Emilio stated, more machine work required to get an 84 stroke VW journal crank to fit.  As far as crank quality, the chinese cranks are OK, but you may have to go through a few of them to get a good one, and even then, they may need some work.  Berg cranks are great, but they command a lot of money and sometimes have a long delivery time.  DPR and DMS make some excellent cranks at a reasonable price.  Before you go any further, have a chat with Kroc, GMB, or any other good engine builder.  Anyone can buy a bunch of parts and throw them together, but what's more important is the sum of the parts and how they all work together.  The difference being a smooth driving, powerful and efficient package versus something that makes all it's power in a 1500 rpm band and is hard to drive.

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Offline egspot

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2009, 10:26:19 PM »
Make sure you build your engine for your purpose.

A stroker will be an engine for short trips and the track if you build for it (unless you are happy with 5k rpm or less power band, which would be a waste on a 2.3L engine). If your plan is to do an engine for driving daily,  a high performance will have limitations. The more horse power you want (it comes usually at higher rpm), the more heads need to be worked and the more heat you create. you will have to match a cam to the desired power band and have valves and springs to match the rpm. All of this has an impact on longevity.

Offline neil68

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2009, 07:05:16 PM »
Hey Guys,
Just curious if anybody has a good recommendation on where I should get a crankshaft for my 2332 build. I have some big heads lying around that I picked up when Airspeed was selling. I'm sure there is a difference between say a Forged CIP crank and a Gene Berg one. Any reasoning to go chevy journals VS VW? I want it to last a while and I will drive the balls off it so I much rather pay more now rather then later. Cheers.

I owned a Berg crankshaft about 15 years ago, but I believe those forgings are no longer available, except from time to time on sites like thesamba.com.  I believe GBE grinds their new cranks from Scat raw forgings and they are very expensive!

I have owned two CB crankshafts, a 78.4 mm and an 84 mm, which is currently in my 2332 cc.  This crank was spot on, as far as main and rod journals and only required some balancing at the machine shop (on one of the counterweights).  I paid about $300CDN at my local shop and it is Made in China from a forging.  I raced almost 100 quarter-miles last year and when I changed camshafts last month, the crank still looked perfect.  I went with Chevy journals to reduce the rod clearancing.  Here's a photo, to illustrate the size of the counterweights:

« Last Edit: March 04, 2009, 07:32:31 PM by neil68 »
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Offline Bruce

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2009, 10:59:12 PM »
Both chevy and VW journals have their advantages.  As noted above, fitting a Chevy journal crank is much easier.  However, a VW journal crank is stronger and flexes less.
Fitting a VW journal 84mm crank is not easy.  Many have ported right through the case in the process.

If you want the best of both worlds, go with an 82mm VW journal. Easier to fit than an 84, and still stronger than any Chevy journal crank.

Offline jim martin

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2009, 06:45:45 PM »
it comes down to this ,street or track use .if you are going to do burnouts in the box and launch over 7000 rpm you need a wedgemate or flandge crank .this will limit your options to either who sells those components or who does the machine work.street use with running at the great canadian once a year buy from a reputable dealer such as cb .street combo best is 82 mm or 78 mm by 90.5 . race ,big as possible bore and stroke




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Offline kirin

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Re: Crank recommendations.
« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2009, 02:10:21 PM »
Goal is to have a fairweather driver that will get beaten on and do some smokey burn outs. I have an aluminum case, not sure the clearances, it was one of the last ones sold through airspeed.
If more power is better. Then too much is just enough.
Why do it once when you can do it thrice?